Need your opinions on suspension ideas.

[deadtrend1]

gonan be ordering a lot of tubular items soon and wanan see what some expert input could be on this.

First, Im definetly going to order the spohn (or UMI, not sure yet) g-load brace-mounted torque arm. Now where Im stuck at, is should i order the one for the long tube setup or order the flat one. I have SLP shorties and stock y-pipe on and im 40% set on getting long tubes in the future. Not sure If I should get the long tube one now and if i dont get long tubes just keep it in there anyways. Or if i get the flat one now, and then if i ever get LT's, talk to the manufacturer and see if i can order the different brace.

next LCA relo brackets
thinking about lowering my car, but wanna see how it looks with 17" ws6 rims first. Now, if i keep the stock height, will relo brackets still help with traction, or are they mainly for correcting the geometry on lowered cars.

Adjustable Panhard bar and LCA's
If i lower it, I will need the adjustable panhard bar so I will order one anyways, but what about the LCA's. Should I order adj. or non?

[Tru2Chevy]

LCA relo's will help no matter what...

- Justin

[V]

if you have an adjustable TQ arm, adjustable lcas arent really needed as much as if you had a fixed TQ arm. Or at least thats what ive been told. BUT Personally myself i have the crossmember mounted adjustable spohn TQ arm, spohn adjustable LCAs(poly body side bushing, spherical rod end axle side) and spohn adjustable panhard bar(poly body/spherical rod end axle). I also have bolt on lca relocation brackets. With just the TQ arm installed, the car felt so much stiffer and hooked way harder, and i only drove less than 2 miles with the other parts installed before the motor blew but i did notice a difference then too. As for the longtube issue, i will have long tubes with the new motor, btu i havent checked to see if they will fit, im hoping they will and if not, it wont be a big deal to make em fit, since i'll probably be running a true dual setup anyway if a single exhaust cant flow enough for what i need. But if there are different versions , i'd say just get the LT one now just in case.

[Pampered-Z]

I would order the one for the long tubes. I didn't and ended up having to get one to clear my exhaust when I decided later to do more mods.

The adjustable LCA will allow you to move your rear, If you can find the post Fred, (injuneer) details how it is useful if you want to run larger tires.

For a few dollars more you should get parts that you can use if you do future mods.

JB

[deadtrend1]

Thanks for the responses. Lt1 t/a arm, adjustable LCA's panhard and relobrakets it is.

[Injuneer]

There is not much to "adjust" with an adjustable LCA. You can't make any real changes in the pinion angle.... not on a torque arm suspension. I used mine to move the rear axle assembly back 1/4" to get some extra clearance at the front of the fender for 28" slicks.

As far as the LCA relo brackets, for straight line traction they will help whether your car is lowered or not. My car sits about 1/2" higher in back because of the Eibach Drag Launch springs, and adding the Spohn relo brackets made a huge improvement in traction. Completely eliminated wheel hop.

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/images/Photos/Susp.jpg

[deadtrend1]

There is not much to "adjust" with an adjustable LCA.


so unless i plan on running oversized tires which i don't, then dont bother with them, and get straight tubed?

[Injuneer]

Yes.... save your money. You don't need adjustable LCA's.

[deadtrend1]

alright, that was one of the things i wasnt sure of. Thanks

[Teds89IROC]

There is not much to "adjust" with an adjustable LCA. You can't make any real changes in the pinion angle.... not on a torque arm suspension. I used mine to move the rear axle assembly back 1/4" to get some extra clearance at the front of the fender for 28" slicks.

As far as the LCA relo brackets, for straight line traction they will help whether your car is lowered or not. My car sits about 1/2" higher in back because of the Eibach Drag Launch springs, and adding the Spohn relo brackets made a huge improvement in traction. Completely eliminated wheel hop.

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/images/Photos/Susp.jpg

Not to hihjack Tim's thread, but did those drag launch springs lower the front of your car at all? I'm juggling the issue between drag launch springs and moog replacement iroc springs. I don't plan on drag racing the car (I will, but just to see how it does, but no competition) and I want to keep my 17x9 275 tires all around. I want good performance for the street though. Also, I kind of like the look of the back sitting a little higher than the front, or the front lower than the back..however you look at it.

~Ted

[Injuneer]

I have QA1/HAL shocks with QA1 springs in the front. They are adjustable, and set to stock ride height.

In the back I have the Eibach Drag Launch springs. They raised the back end about 1/2". Then the 28" slicks raise it up another 1".... So it has a bit of a rake......

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP03466.jpg

[Teds89IROC]

that car looks mean as hell! 8-)

~Ted

[Injuneer]

Naaaa..... its just a pussycat.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP04344a.jpg