LS1 427 Stroker build

[ChickenLittle]

Howdy...rod bearings decided to crap out on me, so I may as well rebuild the motor. The thing is, It's a little pricey to rebuild these LS1s, so I may as well build a nice street killer...

I can not seem to find any info for 427 stroker kits anywhere, despite all of the searches I've done. I've found some 402s and 383s...but since I don't know what crank I'm supposed to use or the rods (looking for H-beam rods) to make this work...I'd just like any info on sites, or kits or advice on you builders or 427 owners out there just what I need to do and what kind of pricing I can expect for a decent kit that can handle daily driver duty.

Oh, by the by, I wanted to use my block and needed to know if the factory sleeves get machined or the block gets re-sleeved or if the stocker gets ****-canned...


Thanks for any help you guys can give me!8)

[JW]

Speed Inc. have an 427 engine as do TTP, Cartek, Katech, Lingenfelter, Rapid Motorsports. Thats all I can think of but they should be able to shoot you some info from their site or by contacting them.

JW :D

[ChickenLittle]

thanks for the info! that's a great start!

[V]

i was gonna do a 422, but i was ditchign the ls1 and i have a iron 6.0l block. the 422 was the 6.0 bored 30 over, 4.125" stroke crank, and 6.125 rods. piston dish i dont remember off hand. But after talkign to several people i now decided to drop down to a 4.000" stroke crank instead and it'll be around a 408. i'm doing a lunati rotating assembly.

[Tru2Chevy]

If you aren't building it yourself, I would talk to TTP. Great guys in the shop up there, and they are a board sponsor :)

- Justin

[11 Bravo]

Oh, by the by, I wanted to use my block and needed to know if the factory sleeves get machined or the block gets re-sleeved or if the stocker gets ****-canned...


A 427 has a 4.00 crank and 4.125 bore. Your block will have to be resleeved. I wouild give Cartek or TTP a call.

[ChickenLittle]

i was gonna do a 422, but i was ditchign the ls1 and i have a iron 6.0l block. the 422 was the 6.0 bored 30 over, 4.125" stroke crank, and 6.125 rods. piston dish i dont remember off hand. But after talkign to several people i now decided to drop down to a 4.000" stroke crank instead and it'll be around a 408. i'm doing a lunati rotating assembly.

i have heavily considered the iron block 6.0...but now after more research, I'm concerned about the added weight....:scratch:

[ChickenLittle]

If you aren't building it yourself, I would talk to TTP. Great guys in the shop up there, and they are a board sponsor :)

- Justin

i went to their site and almost passed out when i saw what the t/k 427 goes for, lol

but they really look like they know their stuff! I'll probably go to Cartek in the next few weeks and talk with them...once I know which direction to go in (that 408 looks better and better everyday), I can begin the slow, painful process of ammassing parts and preparing for the rebuild...



I really appreciate the time you guys have taken to give me leads....this was sudden and came at a really bad time, so I have not had enough time to really find out what's the best route to go with a NA LSX based street killer...had this been an LT1, I'd be fine...oh well, thank goodness for NJFBOA :mrgreen:

[ChickenLittle]

A 427 has a 4.00 crank and 4.125 bore. Your block will have to be resleeved. I wouild give Cartek or TTP a call.

thank you for that important tidbit of info, i was going nuts trying to figure out how that CID was achieved8)

[V]

i thought about the weight issue, but i'll be doing a tubular k member, tubular a-arms, and the QA1 coil over setup which will drop a considerable amount of weight off the front end, and basically after its all said and done, i'll be pretty close to stock front end weight with the new iron motor installed. I'm not going to be competing with the car so im not concerned about shaving weight everywhere i can, and im not a big fan of weight reduction, so the stock weight is fine for me.

[ChickenLittle]

i thought about the weight issue, but i'll be doing a tubular k member, tubular a-arms, and the QA1 coil over setup which will drop a considerable amount of weight off the front end, and basically after its all said and done, i'll be pretty close to stock front end weight with the new iron motor installed. I'm not going to be competing with the car so im not concerned about shaving weight everywhere i can, and im not a big fan of weight reduction, so the stock weight is fine for me.

oh, same here...i just figured it would be a handling issue...but again, i put the cart before the horse....didn't think of the lighter suspension components:mrgreen:

i can save so much scoring an iron 6.0 it's not even funny...

[11 Bravo]

oh, same here...i just figured it would be a handling issue...but again, i put the cart before the horse....didn't think of the lighter suspension components:mrgreen:

i can save so much scoring an iron 6.0 it's not even funny...

Actually, if I had it to do all over again, I would have just had my stock engine rebuilt to 383 cubes with an Eagle rotating assembley, big cam, good stage 2 heads and a 90mm intake. Nowadays you can easily make 500rwhp, which is perfect for the street and would be pretty cheap. If you want more power then spray it. I would never get an iron block. One of the things that attracted me to LS1's is that they are so light. Yeah, you can lighten the front end, but you can do that with an aluminum block and be so much lighter.

[ChickenLittle]

when i was looking at the sites I got from this thread, I saw the 383s, but thought i'd be wimping out goig that route...shoot, I even considered the 346ci putting out 445hp...

****, i don't know, when I get some loot, i'll figure it out


thanks for the input guys!

[ChickenLittle]

this any good?

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1006/1622/52944.jpg