Heads/cam package question

[grandkodiak]

What do you guys think of the 190cc heads? I was originally planning the CC305 cam with 1.6rr's. Is this a good or bad combo?

http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsLT1.html

I have a 96 dual cat and wish to remain emissions legal on a emisisons-tune atleast good enough for a private inspection, and its my daily drive so I cant sacrifice drivability for those few days we get snow... not a track car, purely a light to light and highway fun car.

[Pampered-Z]

Probably a good package for the price, head porting will def. help the 305 make HP, I'm just not 100% sold on that company's claims.

For the 305 cam, there are two versions that are popular, 112 and 114 LSA. The 114LSA probably has a better chance of passing emissions then the 112LSA version. The 114 will probably make a little less top end power, but should have better vacuum and street manners. The 112 will certainly should better with a more aggressive idle. There have also been a few discussion on LT1 cams in this section you can look thru on some other cam options as well.

For the heads: I would suggest getting more info on what else is done to the heads. Appears they are all running stock size (diameter) valve springs and stock rocker arms studs, which would account for the lower price. (Stock size isn't a bad thing).

But I don't see any way they made those numbers on the heads as they are listed. 1st, they are giving port CCs and not flow numbers. Second a mild 383 with a 620-lift cam? And what was the compression ratio of that engine and other cam specs? I don't see any way those beehive springs support that big a cam. I would imagine they had some stout parts on that motor and spun it way up the RPMs to make that power.

Just to compare so you get an idea of why prices can vary so much. My heads were build a few years ago. At the time sold thru IRS but built by GTP. I don't have the cc size, but my heads flowed +/- 290/215. heads were built with 5 angle valve cut, Ferrera valves, bronze guides larger springs (dual springs - required additional machine work on the heads) titanium retainers, 10 degree locks, larger 7/16 studs ect. All this means I paid allot more for them, but I wanted the money spent once and I feel I got the best parts available and would last. GTP stage II heads that are very similar now cost over $2300

One last suggestion that is a pet peeve of mine. I'm not a big fan of Comp Cams springs, never had a good experience with them. But more important regardless of the company,,, I absolutely hate single valve springs, if a spring breaks, you run the chance of doing allot of damage if the engine "eats" the dropped valve. Spend a few extra dollars and upgrade the springs. Look at the difference between the single spring "beehive" and something like the Crane 99846-16 and you'll see what I mean.

Again, not to say those heads aren't good, I just don't know enough about them. Check around, and make sure you know what you’re getting; it's a big investment.

JB

[grandkodiak]

They have a few valvetrain upgrade packages on the bottom of thier site, should I consider any of them?

[Chris96Z]

Im doing just the cam swap (w/ springs/lifters/1.6rr etc..) without heads, youll be fine without the heads...if you have the money, and want the extra kick go for it but keep in mind the install will cost more too.....the cc503 cam is also a good one compared to the 305, but if you need any help let me know!

[grandkodiak]

thank you, but i'll be having a garage do all the work... that way when it doesnt work, i'll have a finger to point and little finacial obligations to fix it :)

as far as the heads, i figure itd be a waste to get the cam done, then in a few months have it all ripped out again to go back with the new heads... figured do it all in one shot.

[Pampered-Z]

They have a few valvetrain upgrade packages on the bottom of thier site, should I consider any of them?

I would get the bronze guides.

As a stated before, I'm a supporter of double springs for saftey and would suggest calling them or comp cam and get the correct springs.

The other beehive they list is still a single spring and the 943 listed is most likely for a solid roller as it is over 500 pressure and way too much spring for your application. I would say you want either the comp cam 987 (may work, might be too light?) or the 977 or 978 spring, all three are double spring, less pressure and priced far less then the 943. The 977 and 978 may require additonal machine work? Again, call Comp Cams as they will know what will work best with your heads and cam.

[Chris96Z]

oh yeh,and cough cough *beehive springs suck d***K

[grandkodiak]

Ohh I forgot to ask, I'm planning on the sts turbo now instead of a supercharger so I was wondering which would be better, the 112 or 114lsa version? i know it had to do with the overlap, and i remember hearing that overlap is not conducive to good operation with a turbo/supercharger...

i also found this table:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/camlsatable.htm

its for motorcycles, but i assume its all the same for car engines.

I want to run as safe as possible, i'll probably want to install a meth system just to be on the safe side, and the stock sts kit is 7psi i believe for the lt1, which i think should be safe enough, no? but whatever i can do with the cam to help make more power, but lessen the chance of detonation.

sonoco used to sell 94 around here, but now 93 is the max.

[JL8Jeff]

You need to decide how much power you want to make. You can do it with either heads/cam or supercharger or turbo. If you do heads/cam and a supercharger or turbo, you're gonna blow up the engine and break your trans or rear. Pick a horsepower range and then decide how to get there. You can bolt on a supercharger and get in the 425-450 hp range. You can do the same range with just a cam. When you go over 500 hp you're gonna start breaking parts and will have a real tough time staying "legal". You don't need to pass the emission's sniffer test with a 96, you only need to pass the computer plug in test. You can put in any cats you want and it will look legal 99% of the time and with rear O2 sims the computer will pass inspection. IF you get too radical of a cam, the computer might not be able to deal with the cam or crank sensor and throw a code which won't pass. I think you can reach the power level you want with just a cam swap but since you're that far apart doing heads is a good idea. Start with the heads/cam and then worry about a supercharger or turbo after you rebuild the short block with better pistons and lower the compression a little.

[396LT1SS]

Call up Lloyd Elliot get one of his packages not only do they make alot of power but they make a crap load of torque through the whole rpm range Lloyd knows his stuff and the customer support you get is great he kinda sandbags his numbers he quoted me that my le2 heads flow about 275 or so when i bought them from him but after a few more phone conversations with him he told me that they flow more like 295 great product value and i love my beehive springs gotta make sure that they are installed at the proper height and they are great mine are handling my .603 lift cam great eportworks.com

[396LT1SS]

also 96 is obd2 dont need to pass emissions it is only plug and play so you just need your emission systems to be "ready" and no codes set

[grandkodiak]

thanks for the advice...

they plug my car in but they still sniffed eveytime??

[JL8Jeff]

thanks for the advice...

they plug my car in but they still sniffed eveytime??

In the past they did that but now it should only be a plug in. Did you go to DMV inspection or a private garage? My 96 SS was thowing a random misfire code(and still is) but I erased it and made it through inspection. It came back 20 minutes after going through inspection.

[grandkodiak]

I have an obd2 connector and software on my pda and i have no codes, but last time i went through (2 years ago if things have changed) they plugged it in, then put the thing on dyno lookin machine, plugged a tube in my exhuast, ran it up for a good 5 minutes and walked around teh car with a mirror poll (checking for cats i assume) at the dmv, no private.