1QWIKBIRD
07-22-2006, 12:56 AM
Finally got the motor back on the cradle and installed the blowproof bell and clutch setup. Though I'd pass along a few tips on the bell housing install to anyone contemplating the upgrade.
First the McCleod piece is sweet, but make sure the attachment bolts that go from the bell to the block are the correct thread type and size. They are metric 10x1.5, but the hardware kit from McCleod came with 3/8x16, which will thread in (although sloppy in the hole) and would lead to all kinds of trouble like stripped threads. I found this tidbit on ls1tech, but thought it was worth repeating. I ended up ordering the proper bolts from McMaster-Carr.
Second, be prepared to do a decent amount of grinding/clearancing on the back of the oil pan (I bet I removed an 1/8 of material in some areas). The stiffening ribs on the back side extend beyond the mating surface of the rear block face. With the factory bell this is non-issue because there is no block plate, but with the McCleod unit these ribs prevent the plate and therefore the bell and ultimaltey the tranny from sitting correctly.
Third, get longer dowel pins for the block. The factory pins just aren't long enough to adequatley locate the block plate and the bellhousing itself. The old pins will pop out pretty easily with a drift. I got 2 inch long dowel pins from Lawrence Engineering and they work fine. The longer dowel pins did however require me to remove a mounting bracket from the side of the bell that must be for some other application. I guess I could have trimmed the dowels pins a bit, but the bracket popped off pretty easily
Fourth, you may have to clearance the starter hole in the block plate or grind on the nose of the start a tiny bit to achieve a proper fit.
Lastly, you should check your bell for proper alignment, but that's another story for another day, McCleod has instructions on the website if you are intersted.
I am worried about the SPEC Clutch 3+, not alot of good things being said about them right now....I am hoping its a matter of proper break-in.
The headers are back from getting a fresh ceramic coating at Johnson's Powder Coating in Burlington, nice work. I finished up the night by hooking up the oil cooler lines, and installing the headers....and much to my delight the headers clear the new bell just fine, no grinding/cutting of the bell was needed.
Tomorrow's goal it to the tranny on, and get the K-member back under the car and bolted into place.
If anyone wants or need more info or pics let me know.
First the McCleod piece is sweet, but make sure the attachment bolts that go from the bell to the block are the correct thread type and size. They are metric 10x1.5, but the hardware kit from McCleod came with 3/8x16, which will thread in (although sloppy in the hole) and would lead to all kinds of trouble like stripped threads. I found this tidbit on ls1tech, but thought it was worth repeating. I ended up ordering the proper bolts from McMaster-Carr.
Second, be prepared to do a decent amount of grinding/clearancing on the back of the oil pan (I bet I removed an 1/8 of material in some areas). The stiffening ribs on the back side extend beyond the mating surface of the rear block face. With the factory bell this is non-issue because there is no block plate, but with the McCleod unit these ribs prevent the plate and therefore the bell and ultimaltey the tranny from sitting correctly.
Third, get longer dowel pins for the block. The factory pins just aren't long enough to adequatley locate the block plate and the bellhousing itself. The old pins will pop out pretty easily with a drift. I got 2 inch long dowel pins from Lawrence Engineering and they work fine. The longer dowel pins did however require me to remove a mounting bracket from the side of the bell that must be for some other application. I guess I could have trimmed the dowels pins a bit, but the bracket popped off pretty easily
Fourth, you may have to clearance the starter hole in the block plate or grind on the nose of the start a tiny bit to achieve a proper fit.
Lastly, you should check your bell for proper alignment, but that's another story for another day, McCleod has instructions on the website if you are intersted.
I am worried about the SPEC Clutch 3+, not alot of good things being said about them right now....I am hoping its a matter of proper break-in.
The headers are back from getting a fresh ceramic coating at Johnson's Powder Coating in Burlington, nice work. I finished up the night by hooking up the oil cooler lines, and installing the headers....and much to my delight the headers clear the new bell just fine, no grinding/cutting of the bell was needed.
Tomorrow's goal it to the tranny on, and get the K-member back under the car and bolted into place.
If anyone wants or need more info or pics let me know.