Turbo or 383

[GrandmasterCow]

Hey Everyone, I've been planning to turbo my car. The other day i rode in my friends 383, and i just drooled. Now, what do you think think is much better, Single custom Turbo or 383? i am doing suspension right now too.

[Tru2Chevy]

I would get your suspension finished up, and then see what you can do with your current setup (once it's running correctly again). IMO, you shouldn't be worried about more power if you haven't gotten all that you can get from your current combo.

- Justin

[GrandmasterCow]

true... yeah im doing suspension now beofre anymore performance, i'm just looking for a direction to go in so i can prepare and everything.

[Tru2Chevy]

Well, it depends on what you want out of the car then. If you are going for all out stright line numbers, then the turbo is the way to go. If you just want something fast(er) on the street and still able to lay down a good number at the track, run a slightly smaller turbo or go big cube.

Bumping up the cubes will most likely be the cheaper route, since you would (I'm assuming) be doing some bottom end work before installing a turbo anyway.

- Justin

[WildBillyT]

I would get your suspension finished up, and then see what you can do with your current setup (once it's running correctly again). IMO, you shouldn't be worried about more power if you haven't gotten all that you can get from your current combo.

- Justin

Best.

Advice.

Ever.

Your newfound power will go up in smoke or wheelhop if your suspension is not up to the task.

[GrandmasterCow]

yeah i'm definately doing suspension first. i was gonna turbo because a turbo ls1 in nj is rare, esp a custom setup (non-STS). hmm.. yeah if iwas gona turbo id do the bottom end. yeah rightnow i have traction issues so im fixing them and suspension, then im going to proceed with my choice above. i want the car to be awsome on/off the track. gas miliage isn't a issue, as its not my DD anymore. i need some good DRs cuz i dont hook up lol

[Pampered-Z]

You said a 383, so I'm going to assume it wasn't a LS1 motor but a LT1 or TPI type car? I think is important because your LS1 is not designed to have the low end grunt a LT1 or TPI car would, its designed for high RPM power, so the torque of the TPI/LT1 really stands out in the midrange. building a stroker LS1 will gain the torque and HP, but it is still going to be higher in the RPM range.

Think about compairing a stock LT1 against a stock LS1 and all else being equal, the LT1 or TPI car will out pull the LS1 down low, but once you get above 5,000RPMs the LS1 motor has all the advantages.

That said, regardless of LT1 or LS1, a stoker will have more torque down low then a forced induction motor, because of both the stroke as well as the higher compression, but the turbo will have the most high RPM gains, so you should look at what you want from the car and build it for that.

[qwikz28]

from what i see on ls1tech, the winning combination seems to be the 402. i would buy a 402 longblock with a good set of heads and a custom cam and juice for the track. they make torque up the butt and are very very strong. dont stroke a ls1 motor. its not worth your time, just buy a new short/long block. but for now, get a tune and finish your suspension. thats what im doin :)

[Batman]

You can make a 383 LS1, but why would you when a 402 LS2 is cheaper? That is the way to go, I if I had had more money I would have gone that way but alas I am trying ot buy a house.

[Savage_Messiah]

Don't be a pussy... do turbo 383 or turbo 402.

[GrandmasterCow]

Don't be a pussy... do turbo 383 or turbo 402.

:rofl:

[JerzLT1]

beat rons car from a roll (FIX YOUR TUNE) then worry about more power. your as slow as stock right now and you have heads/cam. you should be hitting low 12s or atleast mids with your current set up

[GrandmasterCow]

beat rons car from a roll (FIX YOUR TUNE) then worry about more power. your as slow as stock right now and you have heads/cam. you should be hitting low 12s or atleast mids with your current set up

yeah i know, last year i ran that 12.01, just tis year i only ran once and it was traction issues up the arse and bad MAF.

[Formulalt1]

I agree with everyone on focusing on the area's that need improving prior to adding power that could possibly expose there weaknesses.

So after you get your chasis strong enough to handle either direction and come up with a idea what to do with the rear. Then you can research CFM and PSI , as well as look at your compression ratio and look at what a safe amount of boost is (which will unforuntely be a low number somewhere around 8PSI).

Your best option is do as Kasey stated and going with more volume in the cylinder to apply boost and choose parts that are boost friendly while focusing on lowering compression ratio to take advantage of the boost you can now apply to the system.

To look at stroker or Forced induction alone you would be severly limiting yourself. Good luck either way

John

[GP99GT]

1000hp twin turbo 572 with a t56 behind it....never fails

[Teds89IROC]

:rofl:

~Ted

[GrandmasterCow]

hahah

[1QWIKBIRD]

Sort out the current combo, maximize it then see where you are at? Is the car a mid 11 second ride is it a low 11 sec ride or is it in the tens??? From that point you can move forward. A serious (one that is substantially quicker than your current setup) turbo motor properly built is going to need a new bottom end anyway, so chances are you will be building more cubes either way you go. But there is nothing sweeter than laying down a killer number (mid 10's or better???) on motor alone, especially if you are driving it to and from the track...that would be kick ass....If you go the turbo route I would expect mid 10's or better, otherwise why build it??? There are too many deals on quality short blocks (402 and 408 are about $4200) available to not do the cubes either way you go....A fast all motor car (like yours) is always cool.....slow or mediocre turbo cars are sorta lame especially considering the cost and associatted upgrades.....Really fast turbo cars are cool tooo (mid to low 10's) especially if they are still street driven....I'd still build all motor, go mid 10's on DR's and drive that bitch to and from......

my two cents....

chris

[GrandmasterCow]

well now i have to figure out what im gonna do. motor blew up today on 295. tearing it apart tonight and sometime this week, gatta figure out wtf happened.

[1QWIKBIRD]

well now i have to figure out what im gonna do. motor blew up today on 295. tearing it apart tonight and sometime this week, gatta figure out wtf happened.

what??? like total explosion rod through the block kinda thing or simply a loss of oil pressure and seized???

that sucks man.....

chris

[qwikz28]

shoulda got that thing tuned man

[GrandmasterCow]

nah, a connecting rod snapped and a valve got bent, tomorrow or tuesday we're gonna pull the block and cjheck it. now we have everything off it

[GrandmasterCow]

Pictures : http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/grandmastercow/engine%20blew%20up/

[V]

well, when you figure out what parts you need, let me know, i have rods, heads, other engine parts, and a new block id consider selling

[GrandmasterCow]

heh yeah, i now have a huge hole in the side of my block. lol half the rod went through it the other half is laying in my oil pan.

SmokingSS: I'll stay in touch. my heads are fine, just the one valve is bent. what seemed to happened was the rod bolts got looes and just went out. (98's i heard have the bad rod bolts)

[camaro2you]

ah yes, what a fun day that was yesterday, smoke as far as you could see on 295 and apparently the hole world saw us and started calling lol.

[Tru2Chevy]

Well, at least now you know why the car wasn't running the number....

- Justin

[GrandmasterCow]

lol yeah. but hat is true , right? 98 ls1s have weak rod bolts? cuz the rod bolt was tototally off the rod. lol anyway, now i'm looking for a new block, trying to pickup a ls6 lbock or an ls2 block

[V]

i have a brand new 2004 LS1/LS6 block 700 delivered to you.

[GrandmasterCow]

PM sent

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

I would say 383. Better street engine, no extra plumbing, still good for the occasional track run. Easier to deal with.

[ChickenLittle]

I don't see an option for both, so I didn't vote...I built my 383 LS1(382 has 3.900 bore) with 9:1 compression so that I could add the turbo later. according to the dyno sheet, the power doesn't really start building until around 3400 rpm (no beast down low), but I have no drivability issues. next year (hopefully) the turbo will go in.

I have my own reasons for not going with the 402, but that is a nice option to go with. Either way, the turbo bigger inch motor will probably make you happier in the end :D

[Knipps]

Cease the resurrection of ancient threads!!

[ChickenLittle]

ah sheit. i didn't even look at the date. i just see the ones on my 'new threads' list. my bad:mrgreen:

[Knipps]

ah sheit. i didn't even look at the date. i just see the ones on my 'new threads' list. my bad:mrgreen:

yeah, i use the same thing
gotta be wary of it though

[GrandmasterCow]

haha yeah my thread jumped yesterday without anyone posting iwas liek what the hell haha. anyway i decided to go with a low CR 408 motor and thats what i'm going to havei n the car when i return. it is turbo ready so in the future when i get the turbo setup on it should run without a problem

[Knipps]

haha yeah my thread jumped yesterday without anyone posting iwas liek what the hell haha. anyway i decided to go with a low CR 408 motor and thats what i'm going to havei n the car when i return. it is turbo ready so in the future when i get the turbo setup on it should run without a problem

it happens any time someone votes in the poll :lol:

[GrandmasterCow]

haha thanks, yeah i didin't even think about the poll . lol. i checked my recent posts and saw this thread in the list iwas like wtf olldd. haha