DAMMIT

[Knipps]

I finally went to put on the new rotors/pads on my car today and i got as far as getting the wheels off. :evil: I couldn't get the calipers off and it looks like some of the bolts have been stripped. [which may not even be the right bolts]

I got a bolt-out set from Sears but it was mismarked and the 1/2"-13mm doesn't fit a 13mm bolt. Now it would be too easy for sears to sell sets in relative incriments, so they'll sell you odds or evens or something like that. got one set, doesn't fit but i need the next size up, but it was too late so i have to go back another time.

Threw the wheels back on to try and get my new horn in but i have to cut and crimp wires through the tiny access panel so I threw the old one back on and i got absolutely nothing done today.

exactly which bolts do i take out on the wheel to get to the calipers? there were two that looked like they require a giant hex?

:soapbox:

I think i'm done... for now

[V]

yes, its a allen key type bolt, use a socket with a 3/8 or 10mm allen head, its one of those, or it may be a 8mm... i cant remember off the top of my head without seeing it. the 13mm bolts are for the caliper bracket, that doesnt need to come off.

[foff667]

any autoparts store sells the right size & it should be marked as a caliper bolt remover...its a specific size. Should be 2 of them and you'll also want a c clamp as well as a thin piece of wood to reseat the piston.

[Knipps]

am i going to need anything special for tackling the intake manifold gaskets?

[V]

youll possibly need the little tools to remove the fuel lines

[BonzoHansen]

...you'll also want a c clamp as well as a thin piece of wood to reseat the piston.Remember to crack the bleeder....

[Teds89IROC]

Remember to crack the bleeder....

or you could pop the cover on the brake fluid resevoir, then you don't have to worry about bleeding the brakes

[Knipps]

or you could pop the cover on the brake fluid resevoir, then you don't have to worry about bleeding the brakes

can you explain that ted?

[Teds89IROC]

yea, when you're ready with the C-clamp to push the piston back, pop the cover on the resevoir and the piston will move easier because the pressure will be relieved, but the air will be moving out through the fluid and not getting sucked back in, so you won't have to bleed your brakes.

[BonzoHansen]

But you crack the bleeders so you don't force the fluid back up the system. And if you do it right, you do not have to bleed. I don't. I tighten the bleeder up before I let the pressure off the piston. No air is drawn in.

Plus your method could allow fluid to spill all over - I've seen that many times.

[Teds89IROC]

ah, tightening it back up before you let the pressure off the piston, that makes sense. I'll have to try it that way next time. I've been lucky with the fluid not spilling over.

[BonzoHansen]

Plus, it would be so little air 5 minutes of gravity bleed would do the trick.

[Knipps]

TTT

guys i need a hand..
i'm working on the brakes right now and i'm having a bitch of a time reseating the piston
we've got everything off etc but at the moment don't have access to a C-clamp
i've removed the cap off the resevoir but the piston seems like it won't budge

[BonzoHansen]

You should really get the tools together before you start such a project. I guess you could try a very large set of channel locks if you have them. Or stop and go to the store and buy a c clamp or fancy caliper piston tool.

Is this front or rear?

[Knipps]

front. i have a c-clamp(s) at home but i'm at a friend's house and didn't know of the availability..

[BonzoHansen]

You might be better off going home and getting it. You might be able to push it back with a prybar is you remount it. I can’t visualize it enough to come up with better ideas.

Next time, do it 1st. Jack it up, take off the wheel, crack the bleeder, then push the piston in with it still mounted, and close the bleeder before you relive the clamp pressure. You have made it hard on yourself.