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View Full Version : opinions needed: motor build up


Ian
05-06-2007, 09:44 AM
well, as some of you might know as I was taking my short block apart I dropped a piston and broke the skirt. so now I'm at least into this for a set of pistons.

My question is this: should I just get new pistons and be done with it, or should I the coin and get some new rods as well? I'd also like some cam recommendations as well

my loose plan for the motor is as follows:

350/355 cu.in. L98 short block
stock crank (cant afford a forged one)
studded mains (4 bolt)
possibly forged rods (at the very least I'll get ARP rod bolts)
Vortec heads with manley stainless valves (and guide work for more lift)
comp XE grind (either 270/276 .495/.505 or 282/288 .510/.520)
I'm shooting for around 10.25:1 CR
I'll be using an RPM intake with a 750 carb
Hooker super comp 1 3/4" ceramic coated headers

this motor is gonna be backed by a 200-4R trans and either 3.73's or 4.10's
I'm unsure of what converter to run also, so if you have any advice there it would be appreciated.

I have no idea what kind of power this setup will make, but I'd guess somewhere near 400, maybe a little less.


any input, good or bad will be appreciated. thanks in advance.

j0n
05-06-2007, 02:41 PM
Do you ever think you'll spray the motor? If the potential is there go ahead and grab the forged rods. However, if you have no intentions on ever spraying it I see no need to spend the extra cash. Personally id go forged because i'd want to spray tha bitch. Also, IIRC the XE274 along with stock vortec heads has been proven to make 400hp on a 350, so I'd look into that cam or something just a tad larger for your setup.

NJSPEEDER
05-06-2007, 02:56 PM
gear selection would come down to how much the car weighs,what kind of power you are making, and what your engines power band is.
gears shoudl be picked last. having a general idea is ok, but don't make that decision until everything else is done.

johnjzjz
05-06-2007, 03:52 PM
studded mains (4 bolt)
possibly forged rods (at the very least I'll get ARP rod bolts)

JUST A THOUGHT - studs require more torque than the stock bolts that stretch out to hold the caps - what happens is if the crank saddles are not honed to except the extra torque the main bearings get squeezed and become egg shaped - i don't do it that way leave the stock bolts in it --

$375 buys H beam import rods that will work just fine up to 500 / 550 HP -- and the same for rods u can just bang them in -- it will work but only for a short while -- re sizing the rods when bolts are added that increase torque is mandatory --- the comic books like how to build my 7000 Hp on pump gas sbc does not menchion any thing that is important just fluff -- jz

j0n
05-06-2007, 04:22 PM
ian i would listen to anything JZ says...he knows his s*** and then some

JSPERFORMANCE
05-06-2007, 05:25 PM
Looks to me like you just have a parts list..
Are you planning on doing all the assembly work yourself or taking it to a professional?
If you choose the later my suggestion to you would be to give the builder your parts, expectations, application, and budget, then let him do his thing.
If you build it yourself you may want to get an experienced builder to stand over your shoulder to assure all the little things that are not in "budget build" books (as Johnjz stated) are not overlooked.

j0n
05-06-2007, 05:37 PM
IIRC Ian is an ASI certified mechanic and I believe he's done this sort of thing before...i could be wrong though

Ian
05-06-2007, 05:54 PM
Actually, its ASE certified :wink:

I plan on assembling everything myself, but I will be having the block, crank, rods and pistons looked over, balanced and what not by a proffesional.

I'm not totally clueless when it comes to building motors, but I'm nowhere near as well versed as john or josh. I'm also not afraid to ask questions or take advice from more experianced builders so all input is welcome.

and Tim, I'm not dead set on gears and converter yet, I'm working my way to the back of the car :lol:

BigAls87Z28
05-06-2007, 06:38 PM
LS7 FTW....;)

If you are gunna be putting out 400hp, I would figure to invest in some better conecting rods. The money spent up front will go along way. Better then tearing down the block only to find that the stock L98 rods went into the side of the cyl walls, and you have yourself a engine block with windows.

JSPERFORMANCE
05-06-2007, 06:49 PM
Ian I didnt mean to insult you at all please dont take anything I wrote in that manner.
Its just that alot of times complete novices expect to build a killer engine their first time with just a few "pointers" that it takes builders years to acquire. My suggestion is always the same because no matter how nice the person you are asking is they will NEVER tell you EVERYTHING they know. Sometimes its the little things that may be left out that make all the difference.

BigAls87Z28
05-06-2007, 07:18 PM
Hey Josh, I was told by a many people that your work is top notch! I think I might be in need of your services soon...will PM you

Fast92RS
05-06-2007, 08:58 PM
I think you should go all out and buy the better parts now instead of later. Thats why I went for the 383 with all forged parts.

NJSPEEDER
05-06-2007, 09:16 PM
most of the durability of the bottom end is related to compression and rpm. the stock stuff in an L98 can easily live a long and happy life being shifted at or jsut under 6k rpm on pump gas friendly 10+/-:1 compressions. a lot of guys hav edone it before with N/A combinations making 400ish at teh crank, no reason to believe that you can't.

unstable bob gable
05-06-2007, 09:25 PM
Just to play Devil's advocate...383 kits are pretty cheap...:nod:

Ian
05-06-2007, 10:23 PM
Josh, I didnt take your comment as an insult. I know that I am a mere beginner compared to you and john.

and as I said before, I am open to anything you pro's can suggest.

I'm sure the stock bottom end would work fine, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I'd rather the bottom end be slightly overkill than just barely enough.

I would get a forged crank, but that is definitely not in my budget. I did notice that eagle sells a 383 crank for under 200 bucks though. I dont know if I'd use that though, I get mixed reactions when that company's name is brought up.

johnjzjz
05-07-2007, 07:49 AM
Most have been their with less than we would want to spend - but -

DO IT JUST ONCE - it just takes longer -- jz

JSPERFORMANCE
05-07-2007, 08:48 AM
dont be afraid of eagle I just made 817 @ 7200 with eagle rods in my pump gas 355

Ian
05-07-2007, 10:54 PM
dont be afraid of eagle I just made 817 @ 7200 with eagle rods in my pump gas 355

damn, thats impressive. I'll have to see how much money its all gonna cost me before I decide on the crank.

WayFast84
05-08-2007, 02:23 PM
Hey ian, when you are ready to build your motor, i would like to lend a hand if its possible, good luck with picking parts
/hijack