What do i need to get and know?

[WayFast84]

When disasembling a head, to do some minor porting,? Im going to practice on a junk head before i port, but what tools do i need to remove valve springs, and valves, and install junk valves? also, what tools do i need to get so I can cut my heads for larger valve springs?

Im trying to do all this by myself, so I can get the ball rolling, and still have money in my pocket, because the money i would pay for some one to all this, is going to pay off my junk ripped off tranny 8-)

[WildBillyT]

Matt,

If you don't know what you are doing or don't have the right tools, home porting can COST you power. Be careful going forward with something like that.

[hardline_42]

When disasembling a head, to do some minor porting,? Im going to practice on a junk head before i port, but what tools do i need to remove valve springs, and valves, and install junk valves? also, what tools do i need to get so I can cut my heads for larger valve springs?

Im trying to do all this by myself, so I can get the ball rolling, and still have money in my pocket, because the money i would pay for some one to all this, is going to pay off my junk ripped off tranny 8-)

Dude, I thought I answered this for you:shock: ?

To remove the valve springs you need a valve-spring-compressor. It looks like a big C-clamp with a fork on one end. You slide the fork end over the spring retainer and the other end presses against the valve on the chamber side. You crank it down until the locks come free and release the tool. Springs ensue.

In order to cut your heads for larger springs you need a spring seat cutter. Both Comp Cams and Crane make them. Get the tool that matches your spring diamteter and an 11/16"arbor to fit the valve guide. Attach the cutter to the arbor and the whole shebang to your drill. Slide it into the valve guide to keep the cutter steady and perpendicular to the seat (if your valve guides are crappy, don't even bother doing this. Get new valve guides first and cut the seats after). Add plenty of lube. The tool will cut the valve guide boss first and eventually the seat. You need to measure carefully once you get to the seat to make sure you don't cut too far past your springs recommended install height. A spring height micrometer is useful for that.

If you need to cut down the actual valve guide for higher lift clearance, you need a valve guide cutting tool, also sold by the aforementioned companies. Make sure you get new valve seals (positive style Viton or Teflon) in the same size as the tool. The process is the same as cutting the seats. Drill a little and measure a lot.

[WayFast84]

how about installing screw in studs?

[hardline_42]

how about installing screw in studs?

Here's my write-up from the Vortec Sticky:

First off, a warning: This post is a sig-hunter’s dream. I will be using phrases like “pinning the rocker stud,” or “studs pulling-out” or even, “I prefer tapping the stud-bosses.” Please get all of your chuckles out of the way now :rolleyes:.

That being said, one of the most common mods done to stock Vortec heads is upgrading the pressed-in rocker studs. Many will argue that the modern Vortec pressed-in studs are not as prone to pulling out as they were in older heads. While that is true, wilder Vortec engine combos with fully ported heads and higher valve lift are becoming more common and securing the studs is cheap insurance, IMO.
There are several methods to choose from for securing rocker studs. The first is pinning the stock studs. My current Vortec heads have pinned studs, but they were done by the previous owner. I don’t have any info on this method so I’ll let someone else discuss it.
The second method, and the one I’m going to discuss, is machining the head for screw-in studs WITHOUT GUIDEPLATES. To do this you will need a set of 3/8” shoulder-less screw-in rocker studs, five of the pivot balls from the rockers, the rocker stud nuts, a rocker-stud tap-guide and arbor (sold by ProForm and other manufacturers for about $13), a 7/16” – 14 self-bottoming tap, the biggest t-handle you can find, a socket set, a breaker bar or long-handled ratchet, and one non-self-locking nut to fit over the studs. You can also do this with an air-ratchet but it’s easier to screw up (no pun intended). The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove the pressed-in studs:
- Stack 3 pivot balls over the first rocker stud
- Tighten nut on to the stud slowly, using the breaker bar and socket. Make sure you don’t bottom the nut out on the threads. This is why using an air tool is dangerous.
- When you get close to running out of threads, remove the nut, stack another pivot ball on to the stud and continue to tighten the nut. Repeat this until the stud pulls out completely.
- Use this procedure on the other studs. Only remove EVERY OTHER STUD at this point. For example, remove all the exhaust studs or intake studs only. You will need the others to be in the head.
2. Install the tap guide:
- The tap guide is made up of two parts: an arbor (this part fits into the hole left by the stud) and the guide itself, a block of steel with a hole that fits over the stud left in the head and a partially threaded hole that guides the tap. Place the tap over the first pair of stud bosses. The threaded side of the tap guide should be facing down (against the hole left by the stud).
- Insert the arbor into the hole to line up the guide and tighten a rocker nut down onto the adjacent stud. This will keep it in place while you tap the threads.
3. Tap the threads:
- After making sure the tap guide assembly is all squared-up, thread the tap into the hole through the guide. Cast iron is soft so lubricant is not necessary. Plus, it makes clean-up a mess.
- Go slowly, keeping the tap vertical and back it out every so often to break up any big chunks. Keep going ‘til it bottoms out.
- Use a vacuum to clean out the threads and use a screw-in stud to check for the right thread depth. Rocker studs can be found here: http://midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=RM348&line=PNR
- Once the stud fits, remove the tap guide and follow the steps for removing the adjacent pressed in stud.
- Temporarily install the screw-in stud in the threaded hole and set up the tap guide as described above. Use a non-self locking nut to tighten down the guide.
- Follow the steps for tapping the threads. Repeat for each pair of studs.
4. Install the screw-in studs:
- Once the threads are thoroughly cleaned, screw-in the studs.
- Remember to apply thread sealer to the studs that penetrate the water passages and oil on the others.
- Torque the studs down to 50 ft. lbs. using two nuts locked against each other.
- Stand back, look at the bruises on your hands and ask yourself why you didn’t just pay a machine shop to do this for you.

[johnjzjz]

it take 15 to 20 hours if you know what your doing per head - and face masks are a must good venting and a special room also helps ear protectors are also a must and 3 / 500 bucks for high speed carbide grinding bits and BTW the compressor you don't have will be a must - hacking up cast iron dust on your desk at school will get you a better grade down south tho -- the reason most don't do it it takes too long and as bill said with out years of experience and a flow bench and motor dyno to show how bad you have done the cars motor will be a disaster -- just thought you might want to know -- jz

[johnjzjz]

I don’t have any info on this method so I’ll let someone else discuss it.


The biggest down side to pining is the rocker stud diameter you cant change it - if you get an ARP thread type insert it comes in 2 sizes i believe 3/8 and 7 /16 the larger is a better deal for high end combos -- jz

[hardline_42]

I don’t have any info on this method so I’ll let someone else discuss it.


The biggest down side to pining is the rocker stud diameter you cant change it - if you get an ARP thread type insert it comes in 2 sizes i believe 3/8 and 7 /16 the larger is a better deal for high end combos -- jz

Yeah I didn't have any info on pinning studs back when I wrote that but you're right. Pinning the studs is easy, you can get a kit with the roll pins and drill bit and just drill throught the stud boss and hammer the roll pin in. But that creates a great place for the studs to crack and it's still a weaker stud. I'm not sure if the link I posted above for the studs is still valid but they were 7/16" threads into the head vs. the stock 3/8".

[johnjzjz]

Yeah I didn't have any info on pinning studs back when I wrote that but you're right. Pinning the studs is easy, you can get a kit with the roll pins and drill bit and just drill throught the stud boss and hammer the roll pin in. But that creates a great place for the studs to crack and it's still a weaker stud. I'm not sure if the link I posted above for the studs is still valid but they were 7/16" threads into the head vs. the stock 3/8".

arp sells them not only in different lenght to accom valve installed hights and or lash caps but both top sizes as well -- jz

[WayFast84]

wow, theese heads are killing me, they are the only reason i dont have a running car right now..

I guess i wont be porting the heads, and anything trick..

[Batman]

You can still get them cleaned up and get a good valve job for a few hundred bucks.

[WayFast84]

few hundred bucks? for about 500 i can get everything done to the heads that I want, but right now, i figured just get things i need, and screw in studs for insurance, hardline, is helping me get on track with this project from hell.