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GrandmasterCow
05-16-2007, 01:23 PM
ok heres the deal:
flexplate is too far out that starter won't reach it.

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/5959/img1154cv9.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/3787/img1153kr5.jpg
stock flexplate
stock crank
brand new starter (stock one didint reach suddenly either, then it hit the dust)

she runs if i flip the flexplate backwards and stick som, washers behind it she'll start and all but TC won't bolt and its backwards.

GrandmasterCow
05-16-2007, 04:54 PM
anyone got any ideas ?

hardline_42
05-16-2007, 06:54 PM
Did you seat the flexplate all the way back against the crank flange? You might have to shim the starter also.

V
05-16-2007, 07:21 PM
its definately a crank issue. these starters dont get shimmed, even if they did like older sbc's, they shim down, not inward.

I hate to say it, but that crank needs to be changed. Motor has to come back out.

this is what the crank should look like....

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/ls1rearveiw.jpg

GrandmasterCow
05-16-2007, 08:49 PM
someone on ls1tech said i might have the longer truck crank, if so, is that still usable? i really don't want to have to take everything apart unless i absolutely have to, meaning couple hundred in gaskets if it all has to come back out again.

V
05-16-2007, 08:59 PM
I wouldnt try to use it. if it is a truck crank, if that is such a possibility, then who knwos what the stroke is. IF you got it as a LS1 crank, the place should be responsible IMO. it isnt really a huge job to change the crank, actually i should say its not an expensive job. front and rear cover seals are reusable, same with the oil pan gasket and water pump. Then you just pull the pan, unbolt all the rods and main caps, remove crank, install new crank w/new bearings, bolt down all the mains(in sequence) and then the rods. and reinstall the oil pan etc.

GrandmasterCow
05-16-2007, 09:10 PM
I wouldnt try to use it. if it is a truck crank, if that is such a possibility, then who knwos what the stroke is. IF you got it as a LS1 crank, the place should be responsible IMO. it isnt really a huge job to change the crank, actually i should say its not an expensive job. front and rear cover seals are reusable, same with the oil pan gasket and water pump. Then you just pull the pan, unbolt all the rods and main caps, remove crank, install new crank w/new bearings, bolt down all the mains(in sequence) and then the rods. and reinstall the oil pan etc.

geeze thats what i get for getting it at autozone. i went back there twice because they gave me wrong crank before and it took 4 1/2wks to get the new one it, now i find it to be wrong again.

GrandmasterCow
05-17-2007, 03:14 PM
so basically, i'm SOL for now and i have to tear motor apart? or what about a truck flexplate, is it flat?

bobs70rs
05-17-2007, 07:45 PM
smoking ss is right i would ask someone about youre options first before i tour it back down would a differnt starter from a truck work ? just my 2 cents

GrandmasterCow
05-17-2007, 11:34 PM
i tried lookin at truck starters dont look good. so i was wondering if i found a flat flexplate, truck or a TCI, then mabe by it being flat it wont add an more length since the crank already sticks out and the car does run, so maybe thatll work. then just bolt the TC and tranny up.

Batman
05-19-2007, 12:37 PM
Do you have the casting number off the crank or know where it came from? It may be the old 6.0 crankshaft, it is the same stroke and dimensions but has a differnet flexplate flange. Find yourself a 6.0 truck flexplate and you should be OK. The trucks have a different starter also, but I think the dimensions are the same. If not you may need the truck starter. Slim chance you may need a truck converter also.

GrandmasterCow
05-20-2007, 12:26 PM
tomorrow im picking up the flat flexplate after reading that should fix my problem.

GrandmasterCow
05-22-2007, 01:25 PM
i got the truck flexplate, crank bolts dont line up too good and the TC bolts dont line up.

great

looks like i have to take stuff off and pull the engine again and go bitchslap someone about giving me the wrong crank. this makes the past month and half a waste of my time. now i have to find another crank the right one and hope it works, maybe ill have car workin for my birthday in 8 days, probably not as nothing seems to have been going corretly lately. also my parents are flippin about this project taking so long, and said if it isn't on the roar within a week and half, it's for sale/charity no matter what. great .

GrandmasterCow
05-23-2007, 10:35 PM
hah scratch all that above, truck flexplate didint work, i buckled down today and took the entire engine out and removed the crank, tomorrow im gonna return it and im going to try to go up north to pickup one off jared. we'll see

1984camaroz28
05-24-2007, 09:27 PM
I wouldnt try to use it. if it is a truck crank, if that is such a possibility, then who knwos what the stroke is. IF you got it as a LS1 crank, the place should be responsible IMO. it isnt really a huge job to change the crank, actually i should say its not an expensive job. front and rear cover seals are reusable, same with the oil pan gasket and water pump. Then you just pull the pan, unbolt all the rods and main caps, remove crank, install new crank w/new bearings, bolt down all the mains(in sequence) and then the rods. and reinstall the oil pan etc.

the the truck cranks r the same stroke outa the iron blocks as a stander ls1 f-body crank

GrandmasterCow
05-24-2007, 10:47 PM
yup, but the crank flange on the end is thicker on the truck ls1s than on the car ls1s, thats why the truck crank i have can't be used. i now have the correct crank as i drove up to north jersey to pick it up and i just have ti pickup bearings and she's ready

Knipps
05-25-2007, 12:10 PM
yup, but the crank flange on the end is thicker on the truck ls1s than on the car ls1s, thats why the truck crank i have can't be used. i now have the correct crank as i drove up to north jersey to pick it up and i just have ti pickup bearings and she's ready

:w00t: