Stock rear breaking point?

[NightRydaSS]

This thread coinsides with the one i have about building a crate motor vs building one...

what is the breaking point of our stock 7.5" rears? I kno that is a vague question b/c how it is drivin play a huge part, but like is there a hp threshold?

I was thinking of puting 3.73's w/ an auburn diff and a performance cover (the cover is supposed to strenghten the rear somehow), and prob stonger axels. I dont really have the $$$ to buy a 9" or 12" rear, and this way will cost less then half as much a new rear.

for instance, there is someone who lives down the street from me with a 02 ss that runs mid 11's ( i was there and saw it) and to my knowledge he has the stock rear in it with 4.11 gears, but...then i hear of ppl blowing these things up with a basically stock car.

i kno our tranny's are supposed to be good till about 500hp stock (correct me if im wrong)?

[procamaroz28]

sure you can make your rear strong but good motors need sticky tires at the track and thats whats gonna kill your rear (launching and hard shifts w/ sticky tires) dont be the guy that gets stuck w/ cheap tires b/c of 7.5 rear and therefore would only race from a 70mph roll b/c any less of a speed the tires just spin

[NightRydaSS]

the stickiest i could ever see myself going would be DR's, and that would only be for weekend use. I want this car to be an all around car (as much handeling as HP so to speak).

[WildBillyT]

If your car is an auto it will launch softer and your rear can last longer. Tire choice is also a factor. But I've heard of people blowing up rears in showroom stock cars... so you are rolling the dice either way.

Don't waste your money on an Auburn cone-style diff.

[NightRydaSS]

If your car is an auto it will launch softer and your rear can last longer. Tire choice is also a factor. But I've heard of people blowing up rears in showroom stock cars... so you are rolling the dice either way.

Don't waste your money on an Auburn cone-style diff.

i have heard the same thing too...car is an M6.

what is wrong w/ an aubrun diff? i though they were high TQ?

[WildBillyT]

i have heard the same thing too...car is an M6.

what is wrong w/ an aubrun diff? i though they were high TQ?

High torque? Huh?

The best diff your your car will be either a Zexel Torsen or Eaton.

[NightRydaSS]

yea, i know that some SLP SS's came with auburn "high TQ Diff's". I thought they are supposed to be good. Even in mags they are advertised as high TQ diff's "get more power to your wheels" or some sh8t they say.

good f'in thing i asked; what makes them so "bad"? What does the SS have stock, a zexel torsen?

[WildBillyT]

yea, i know that some SLP SS's came with auburn "high TQ Diff's". I thought they are supposed to be good. Even in mags they are advertised as high TQ diff's "get more power to your wheels" or some sh8t they say.

good f'in thing i asked; what makes them so "bad"? What does the SS have stock, a zexel torsen?

I could be mistaken, but I've talked to 3 rear end builders (that is all these guys do- just rear ends) and they all said the same thing- that the Auburn cone-style LSD is not the best design and it is not rebuildable. One guy even said that he replaces broken ones with Eatons.

Your mileage may vary, don't just go based of off what I say.

[NightRydaSS]

na, you would know more then i would, and if that is what the pros say, then that is how it is.

Now, i went on to eaton's website, and they have like 9 different diff's. what one fits my car, what one do most ppl use?

[procamaroz28]

dont spend $ on stock rear the small gears alone cant handle stock power w/ dr

[bubba428]

hell my stock v6 shredded 3.23 open diff. it don't take much...1 good hook with enough goose to it and boom

[NightRydaSS]

dont spend $ on stock rear the small gears alone cant handle stock power w/ dr


i kno that, that is y i want to beef it up as much as i can. I figure with a nice set of SLP 3.73's, an Eaton LSD, a performance diff cover, and a nice set of moser high performance axels, i can save my self over half the cost of a 12" rear (right now) and make the factory size stronger.

[procamaroz28]

i hear ya but axles are not weak point, its the smaller size diamiter gears which cant handle big power just save for a 12 bolt or a 9''

[Blacdout96]

Well you can always have your caps cryoed, and used that T/A cover, and also get the Zexel LSD, from what I heard they're alot stronger, and they dont used friction plates, they used some funky system involvong planetary gears n such, I got one, and cant wait to put it in, infact the rear I got with it in it twisted the axle shaft in two, but the system looks like the day it was put in. anywho, yeah theres really not much you can do to our stock rears to make them more bullet proof, but it wouldnt hurt to do a few things to stiffen it up.

[Blacdout96]

i hear ya but axles are not weak point, its the smaller size diamiter gears which cant handle big power just save for a 12 bolt or a 9''

Exactly, best way to put it. think about taking a rusty bolt off with a stubby wrench, alot of force involved in rotatin the bolt. now get an extended wrench, not as much force is applied to the center cause there is a larger areain which the force is applied. also get one of those small steering wheels made to look like chain, like the ones youll find on cheech and chong movies ( lol) and turn it, more force is needed to turn it, now get an 18 wheeler steering wheel and turn it, less force is applied to turn it.

(please note these analogies should only be taken in thought and not actually practiced. If you actually find the time to put on a chain steering wheel and then an 18 wheeler steering wheel to see the affects and differences, please note YOU HAVE NO LIFE. thankyou)

[NightRydaSS]

Exactly, best way to put it. think about taking a rusty bolt off with a stubby wrench, alot of force involved in rotatin the bolt. now get an extended wrench, not as much force is applied to the center cause there is a larger areain which the force is applied. also get one of those small steering wheels made to look like chain, like the ones youll find on cheech and chong movies ( lol) and turn it, more force is needed to turn it, now get an 18 wheeler steering wheel and turn it, less force is applied to turn it.

(please note these analogies should only be taken in thought and not actually practiced. If you actually find the time to put on a chain steering wheel and then an 18 wheeler steering wheel to see the affects and differences, please note YOU HAVE NO LIFE. thankyou)

Moser has a ford 9" rear for slightly over $1K. Im just goin to do that since it is about the same price as "beefing" up my stock one and will be A LOT stonger.

[WildBillyT]

Moser has a ford 9" rear for slightly over $1K. Im just goin to do that since it is about the same price as "beefing" up my stock one and will be A LOT stonger.

$1k is probably the price without the center section or brakes.

[procamaroz28]

this looks really cool
http://www.strangeengineering.net/newprod/2006/NewLateFBodyRearendAD1.html

[Pampered-Z]

As everyone already aid, how long the rear last is a crap shoot at best. brand or gears, posi, covers, ect. all help a little, but in the end they still break.

I have my axle tunes welded, GM gears, and T/A cover and run Nitto DRs and I launch off idle. I've killed two posi's

[V]

this looks really cool
http://www.strangeengineering.net/newprod/2006/NewLateFBodyRearendAD1.html

hmmm, thats nice, i may go for that in a year or 2

[NightRydaSS]

$1k is probably the price without the center section or brakes.

ur right, i just re-looked it up.

[NightRydaSS]

this looks really cool
http://www.strangeengineering.net/newprod/2006/NewLateFBodyRearendAD1.html


:drool:

i wonder if it also supports the factory "ASR" also. I'd hate to lose my traction control. not a bad price tho.

[procamaroz28]

i think i found me a new rear

[V]

:drool:

i wonder if it also supports the factory "ASR" also. I'd hate to lose my traction control. not a bad price tho.

it does. its $69 additional for 4 channel abs setup(asr runs off that)

[98tadriver]

the breaking point on a stock 10bolt is- me behind the wheel, on street tires :)

[GP99GT]

i broke a 7.5 in a stock tbi 4.3 s-10 blazer (i think it was a 7.5 anyway)

then again it had like 180k miles on it...posi still worked though

[qwikz28]

that strange s60 rear requires a custom driveshaft and is heavy as hell. its overkill for most setups. the moser 9inch with an aluminum center section is ftw

[WildBillyT]

that strange s60 rear requires a custom driveshaft and is heavy as hell. its overkill for most setups. the moser 9inch with an aluminum center section is ftw

No offense to anybody, and I'm sure there is a valid reason somewhere, but for the life of me I can't understand why someone would go with an S60 or Dana 60 unless they have something at least in the mid 9's.

[GP99GT]

basically the consensus is....ford 9" ftw

[procamaroz28]

No offense to anybody, and I'm sure there is a valid reason somewhere, but for the life of me I can't understand why someone would go with an S60 or Dana 60 unless they have something at least in the mid 9's.

tru idk just saying you own that is pretty sweet but must get to 9's first

[Featherburner]

I went with the S60. The reason I did this was the price and the fact I could keep the ABS. I picked up a new S60 and chromemoly driveshaft for several hundred less than the price of just a 9 inch.

[NightRydaSS]

[/LEFT]No offense to anybody, and I'm sure there is a valid reason somewhere, but for the life of me I can't understand why someone would go with an S60 or Dana 60 unless they have something at least in the mid 9's.

yea i kno, as soon as i saw the size of the spider gears i knew it has "slicks" written all over it, but it is the price. It just seemed more unlogical to spend around the same price for "adaquit" (ford 9") you can spend a little more for "overkill" (dana s60)...but, that is before it was stated you need a custome drive shaft, which would put the whole S60 setup up around $1K more then the ford, so "adaquite" is prob how i will go now.

The S60 just looks so....:drool: , it makes me wanna :leghump:

[procamaroz28]

who saw the new moser m9 do they make one for f bodys??

[ded71]

who saw the new moser m9 do they make one for f bodys??

Yeah, they do, and I believe they now come with the ability to keep your ABS and traction control, which to me is a huge plus.

[NightRydaSS]

Yeah, they do, and I believe they now come with the ability to keep your ABS and traction control, which to me is a huge plus.

website link?

[Tru2Chevy]

website link?

Listed right on their site: http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Housings/hous-moserm9.html

- Justin

[Pampered-Z]

Not sure on this, maybe someone can verify?

I thought the the 9" also required a different DS and also swaybars?

[qwikz28]

Not sure on this, maybe someone can verify?

I thought the the 9" also required a different DS and also swaybars?
i think it only requires a different yoke, but the stock length will work. the s60 requires a shortened driveshaft. the stock swaybar will work if i'm not mistaken. you will need a different way to attach it to the rear though

[WildBillyT]

i think it only requires a different yoke, but the stock length will work. the s60 requires a shortened driveshaft. the stock swaybar will work if i'm not mistaken. you will need a different way to attach it to the rear though

If you are changing rears you should upgrade/use a 1350 series yoke anyways IMO, regardless of 12 bolt vs. 9' vs. Dana 60.

[V]

the M9 for fbodies is only for 3rd gens without a torque arm, not a direct bolt in for us.

[Tru2Chevy]

the M9 for fbodies is only for 3rd gens without a torque arm, not a direct bolt in for us.

7H9FBT IROC/F-Body w/torque arm

They have a part number listed for an F-body rear with torque arm. You would just have to run wheels with 3rd gen backspacing in the rear.....

- Justin

[V]

yea i saw it listed, but under price "N/A"...whats up with that?