Something easy for a change - elec fuel pump install on 73

[rscamaro73]

Anyone care to offer suggestions as how to do this ?

Electrical work isn't my forte....but I'm getting someone's used stuff that comes with a relay, and my battery is in the trunk already. Plus I need some room for this (I hope) under the car somewhere.

Wanted to use a sumped tank, but might just end up with the stock one until I can afford the 'good stuff'.

So....anyone done this or offer suggestions ? I know I'll pick Scott's brain or have him come help (I offer beverages :mrgreen: ) since its close.

Thanks.

BTW....you folks on the 2nd gen board keep this 'progress' under wraps.... :twisted:

[transamkid]

i got a jegs electric fuel pump set up for my car. my shop just put a bulkhead fitting in the bottom of the stock tank. the filter and pump were mounted on the front of the tank facing the engine. they are bolted to a piece of metal, and the strip of metal is welded to the tank.

and whats a good second gen board?

[rscamaro73]

and whats a good second gen board?


Why www.nastyZ28.com (http://www.nastyZ28.com) of course :mrgreen:


BTW - have any pix of your setup ??? Interested in this bulkhead fitting....

[BonzoHansen]

You asking how to wire an electric pump?

[WildBillyT]

Wayne,

I did it the way "CamaroDave" (remember him?) recommended. Actually, I think I left some of this stuff on the '78 when I sold it to you. Admittedly that was a bit of a hack install LOL. I did it again (much cleaner) on my bro's Chevelle and it works great (feeds 600+ HP).

You will need:

Fuel Pump
For a 3/8 fuel line: AN-6 hose ends (you may need a full flow elbow or two), AN-6 hose, 3/8 NPT adaptors and 3/8 tube adaptors
10ga wire
30A relay
Fuseable link
Toggle switch
Canister style fuel filter (I used a FRAM HPG-1)
Regulator if required

Here is a rough guide of what I did/do, adjusted for your battery placement:

Position filter and pump below the fuel tank if possible so they are gravity fed. Attach them to a solid part on the car using whatever bracketry you need. You can make isolators out of rubber sheeting or old bicycle tires to put between the brackets and car body to kill some of the noise.

Plumbing:
Attach a 3/8" tube adaptor to the tubing coming out of your fuel tank and make up an AN line that reaches to the fuel filter. Install the 3/8 NPT adaptors into the fuel filter and attach the line to it. Then make up another line that reaches the fuel pump. Install the 3/8 NPT adaptors into that and attach the new line. Then find the spot where you want to tie into the existing 3/8" fuel line, cut it and attach a 3/8" adaptor. Make up and install the final AN line to connect the fuel pump output to the existing 3/8 fuel line.

At this point I made sure that there were no fuel spills and I tested the fuel pump with a battery charger.

Electrical
The way I make my electric connections is to slip a piece of heat shrink over one of the two leads, then barrel knot them together, then solder, then install the heat shrink, and finally cover it with electrical tape.

Make a new lead that will reach between the pump and frame rail and ground the pump to an unpainted part of the frame rail using a star washer. Then mount the relay on the frame rail and begin to wire it up. Start by making a ground lead like you did for the pump, then make a hot lead that goes to the battery, power lead that goes to the pump, and a switched lead that goes into the interior of the car where you want the switch mounted. You can follow the diagram that comes with your relay to figure out what goes where, or look online- the diagrams are all over the place. Once all of the relay connections are made you can mount your switch and attach the lead coming from the relay to it. Your final connection will be from the ignition hot to the switch, with the fusable link installed to protect the switch.

Once all these connections are made you can throw the switch and go.

[transamkid]

haha, i was just at ttp most of the day, my car was supposed to get started up, but the tach held us up. ill take a pic 2m of the whole system 2m

[rscamaro73]

Thanks Bill.

And congrats :mrgreen:

Between the parts off the 78 and the other 'complete' fuel system I'm getting, I'm going to have PLENTY of parts. Prolly a few extra AN fitting as well. I'm going to see if I can reuse that prebent stainless line you made up, and readjust it as needed. I'd rather use that than all braided from rear to front. Just that added 'safety' thing for me. Still have that Fram filter setup with a couple lines connected to it, so I'll either use that one or the other one from the other setup. There's alot more braided lines and fittings coming with that one, to include a regulator. Now I just need to sack up and make a final decision where to mount the regulator to keep it 'sanitary' and 'safe' ;) I'm not too fond of the firewall location, nor the inner fender, so I'll do some online research and figure it out.

I'm prepping this for a 600hp 454....so yeah, its gonna be overkill right now for a pretty stock 454....but I'd rather have this part done and out of the way.

I think I'll get Scott to teach me the way of the wire. I really liked how 'sanitary' his underhood looks. :)

[BonzoHansen]

About like this?

Regular
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/Cars/EX_FUEL_CIRCUIT2.jpg
Battery in trunk
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/Cars/EX_FUEL_CIRCUIT_trunk.jpg

This is a cleaned up, simplified version of a GM TBI fuel circuit. Relay is energized at start (tap the purple starter wire), which primes the fuel pump and gives you fuel PSI for start up. When the key moves to RUN, the OPS is up to pressure it takes over energizing the relay. If the car dies, no OP, no fuel. I'd be hard pressed not to install a fail safe setup like that.

Just $0.02.

[rscamaro73]

About like this?

<ninja mod edit>

When do you wanna start ?? :mrgreen:

[transamkid]

rscamaro my regualator is mounted inside my engine compartment, on the passenger side inner fenderwell, next to my msd box. it looks nice and clean and i have braided stainless lines.

[BTK79]

Scott is right For saftey , put an oil press switch in line so if the car stalls out or your hurt in an accident it shuts down the fuel pump. My set up cycles the pump when crancking to fill the fuel bowl once he engine starts oil pressure takes over to keep the pump on . No switches to hit . I got the press switch from gm ,relay from my job 30a cheap & safe. I got extra stuff if you need let me know. I've had this set up for 7yrs & the power tour so its reliable.

[rscamaro73]

Thanks for the added info BTK. That just makes me feel better doing it that way. Think I'll make sure and do that.

Is that oil pressure switch set up in conjunction with the oil pressure gauge or does some other 'adapters' need to be purchased to install it ?


Right now my oil pressure is a copper line coming off the dr side rear of the block above the oil filter location.

[BonzoHansen]

It is a switch, not a sender. You woud get an OPS from a later model. My 93 K1500 4.3L has one, as did my 82 T/A with CFI. You'd have to add that to the oil pressue tap. 1/4" npt, IIRC. I teed mine when I added the guage. I wanted to leave the idiot light too. Copper line? You using a mechanical guage?

[BTK79]

Mine is seperate from the gauge and the threads on the press switch go right into the block . You can run a t if you want to off of your gauge set up. I have a wiring diagram if you need it , its pretty simple . With Scott's help it should be cake . If you also need my help you got it . Let me know .

[bad64chevelle]

This is all great information, I think I'm gonna watch this and add a oil pressure switch.

[WildBillyT]

Mine is seperate from the gauge and the threads on the press switch go right into the block . You can run a t if you want to off of your gauge set up. I have a wiring diagram if you need it , its pretty simple . With Scott's help it should be cake . If you also need my help you got it . Let me know .

Damn, I knew I missed something! :hammer: Yes, an oil pressure safety switch is certainly needed.

[rscamaro73]

Honestly, I had never even thought or considered a switch like that. But it makes sense, so I'll hook it up. Thanks. :bow:

If'n you can get me a part #, or an 'insider' cost, lemme know and I'll pick it up.

And I guess when its time to put this on, I can have an install party. 8-)

Hopefully my exhaust will be done by the end of this weekend.....

[rscamaro73]

Just looking back in here....I have some holes in my trunk already from a previous fuel system install from the previous owner....but like.....that won't work too well I don't suppose....

Was over at MAD's site browsing thier parts....guess I had better order some stuff up for cleaning up under the hood too. I wanna CLEAN wire free engine bay.

And any comments about regular crimp connectors or should I stick to the ones like MAD uses ? All I have are the regular colored crimp ones, and some heat shrink tube.


BTW - this oil press switch work for this ?? - http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-g1438.pdf

[WildBillyT]

Just looking back in here....I have some holes in my trunk already from a previous fuel system install from the previous owner....but like.....that won't work too well I don't suppose....

Was over at MAD's site browsing thier parts....guess I had better order some stuff up for cleaning up under the hood too. I wanna CLEAN wire free engine bay.

And any comments about regular crimp connectors or should I stick to the ones like MAD uses ? All I have are the regular colored crimp ones, and some heat shrink tube.


BTW - this oil press switch work for this ?? - http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-g1438.pdf

That pressure switch looks like the one I used.

IMO, crimp connectors are fine for use in places you can get to easy. So if they wiggle loose you can fix it on the side of the road. A dab of solder in the crimp connector can help with reliablity. In places that are a PITA to get to you should make more positive connections.

[BonzoHansen]

Crimp connectors can introduce resistence issues, hard to find intermittent issues. Crimp, solder, heat shrink. Don't cheap out on electrcial.

That switch would work fine, although you might want to find an OE application instead, in case you need it on the road. Check out www.rockauto.com. A lot of their listing have pics. You just might need to find the right pigtail. But my 82 TA one looked a lot like that, IIRC

[rscamaro73]

OK...Looking and found this -

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_279776_-1

But I dunno what to get as a 'backup' switch.

I'm gonna do some research for a GM part with pigtail....so it 'looks clean' :)

I guess I'll wait til my other parts get here to figure out if I need a relay pigtail as well.

Heat index of 96 degrees.....time to get under the 73 and finish the exhaust....:-?

[BonzoHansen]

If that trips at 20 psi, might be too high for what you want. She might cut out at idle, etc., depending on your oil psi.

[rscamaro73]

If that trips at 20 psi, might be too high for what you want. She might cut out at idle, etc., depending on your oil psi.


Good point....I hadn't thought of that...Jeff (on the Nasty board) found something off a 90 3.1L Pontiac Grand Prix that might work - found a good sender and pigtail. Its a 3 wire unit too. Prolly will put in a low oil pressure LED on the dash now (I think I have a 12V one here already). Other than that, it'd just be a matter of getting some fittings and assembly.

On another note, got the exhaust on. PITA....and the tailpipes really don't fit all that well....so I might just go and "dump" them and put the rear swaybar back on. That'll give me more room back there as well....besides the fact that my rear brake line won't be touching the tailpipe either...

[rscamaro73]

OK....box of goodies came in....fuel pump and filter, regulator, and a bunch of fittings with premade lines attached. And a new PAINLESS relay setup for an elec fuel pump (looks like wired are labeled that way).

Scott - any luck with the specs on that oil pressure switch ? And a matching pigtail ?

I was going to redo my oil pressure line and move it to the front of the block and look into running a special braided line to the oil pressure gauge.