new best time

[heavy_chevy29]

i got in 5 runs at island today. i had alot of fun and im finally starting to get the hang of it. i finally broke out of the 12s today. my best run was 11.787

rt .354
60 1.678
330 4.857
1/8 7.542
mph 91.64
1000 9.845
1/4 11.787
mph 115.97

heres the rest:
1st run 12.118 114.27
2nd run 12.116 114.16
3rd run 11.787 115.97
4th run 11.834 115.34
5th run 11.953 101(let off the gas towards the end)

im going to try running with a taller tire next sunday. i think thats going to help me. it was alot of fun and im really happy the car made it into the 11s. i still think theres more in that car, so ill have to just keep testing and tuning.

[Batman]

Nice times, what kind of car do you have?

[j0n]

third gen street car with a shafiroff 434

[Tru2Chevy]

Congrats on the new best!

Nice times, what kind of car do you have?
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9927

- Justin

[heavy_chevy29]

go to this link if you wanna see the car

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g105/heavy_chevy29/?sc=1&multi=10&addtype=local&media=image

[SteveR]

Congrats man!

[79CamaroDiva]

go to this link if you wanna see the car

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g105/heavy_chevy29/?sc=1&multi=10&addtype=local&media=image

ha.. i think i teched you in :) good job!

[baddest434]

SHAFIROFF 434 ftw!!

http://home.comcast.net/~baddest434/100_0194.JPG

how much hp did your motor dyno @?
how heavy is your car?
get it in the 9's n/a :mrgreen:

[Tru2Chevy]

how much hp did your motor dyno @?
how heavy is your car?
get it in the 9's n/a :mrgreen:

See the link I posted above for more info......IIRC his car has a 5 speed and is still quite streetable.....

- Justin

[heavy_chevy29]

79CamaroDiva was that you at tech. if i had known i would have said something. you told me that i need a kill switch because i put the battery in the trunk. next time ill have to keep an eye out.

baddest434:
i remember a couple of years back seeing you at etown, i think and your son were running in the low 10s at the time. i think that you have the higher hp 434 that scott shafiroff sells(i think you said around 650hp). mine made 576 hp and 582ft lbs. i still think that theres plenty more in this car. i hoping very high 10s. the car weighs about 3600lbs with me in it. so both the car and myself could stand to lose some weight. i really need to get a set of taller tires for the rear and alittle more tuning, i think i should be around low 11s. my friend has a set of 28inch tall MT drag radials(i currently am running 26 inch tire), so im going to borrow them on sunday and head back to the track and see if that helps me at all.


i know longer have the 5 speed. it wasnt holding up to well behind that motor. i built a 700r4 that should be able to handle around 650-700hp. i also installed a 3400 stall converter.

the car is a street car so i dont want to do any crazy weigh reduction like changing the glass out for plexi-glass. i wanna keep it streetable. i have already done alot of weight loss to the car:
-tubular k member and suspension
-fiberglass hood
-motor has aluminum heads/intake
-got rit of alot of the crap in engine bay
-im sure theres more i just cant think of it right now

if there is anything else that i could do to reduce weight while keeping it a somewhat safe street car, let me know. thanks alot

dan

[baddest434]

i've got alittle more compression 12.5-1. i dyno'ed 654hp 601 tq. i was hoping to keep my car on the streets that why i did'nt go 14-1. but i got carried away:lol: i did make it into the 9's n/a. believe me the more that engine "breaks" in the faster it will go. i went 10.89@130 the first pass i ever made with the 434. yours will get faster too. 28" tires should help you a bit. good luck with it man your heading in the right direction.

[Tru2Chevy]

the car is a street car so i dont want to do any crazy weigh reduction like changing the glass out for plexi-glass. i wanna keep it streetable. i have already done alot of weight loss to the car:
-tubular k member and suspension
-fiberglass hood
-motor has aluminum heads/intake
-got rit of alot of the crap in engine bay
-im sure theres more i just cant think of it right now

if there is anything else that i could do to reduce weight while keeping it a somewhat safe street car, let me know. thanks alot

dan

Well, depending on what you are willing to live with, I'm sure that getting more weight out of your car wouldn't be too hard. For starters you could get lightweight carpeting, or just pull all the insulation off of your stock carpeting; ditch the rear seats/belts; and swap front seats for two racing seats.

- Justin

[79CamaroDiva]

Yeah, that was me at tech, and if you saw me later on in the day in the lanes with a weird lookin dude, that was SteveR :) Your car is gorgeous! The killswitch in the back isn't something we worry about too much on street cars, but technically if the battery is relocated it needs to be there.. as you start going quicker you might get hassled more for not having it

[heavy_chevy29]

oh ok. yeah i met SteveR when i was pulling in that day. he seems pretty cool. could you tell when i need to get a cage installed in my car. i heard 11.99 or faster and i heard 11.50 or faster. im planning on getting one installed over the winter or early next season. thanks

[baddest434]

got this from nhra website.

When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like?

A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing,
.


If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing,

[radialtireking]

Nice car!!! Cool to see some more 434 powered third gens. With what that motor made on the dyno the car should be able to get into the high 10's with some tuning. Good luck with it and hit me up if you have any questions.

[heavy_chevy29]

well the bigger tires did nothing but rub on the quarter panels. my mph were still the same(115mph). i ran a best of 11.800 yesterday with a 1.600 60ft. i really thought the bigger tires would help. i think im going to get air bags for the back so that it doesnt squat so much. i also remembered that i have eibach lowered springs in the rear. so maybe if i put stock springs, with air bags, and get 90/10 shocks, that might help me out some. i really want to aviod having to roll the wheel well lip beacuse i don want to damage the paint. i also want to put skinnies on the front but i dont think anyone makes a set that will clear my 13inch vette brakes. let me know what you guys think.

dan

[Tru2Chevy]

What shocks do you have one the car now? Do you have LCA relocation brackets on the rear axle?

If you don't have relocation brackets now, you might be able to get away with just adding them and not messing with the springs and shocks.

- Justin

[radialtireking]

Not even getting into the suspension and the car not 60 footing well, somewhere this car is way down on power from what the dyno sheets say. 576 hp should be going way faster than 115 at your weight. It should be running well over 120 mph. What do you have for a fuel system and exhaust?

We have the same lowering springs on my friends car and have no problems with the car hooking at the track. Is the car spinning or just not leaving very hard?

[heavy_chevy29]

radialtireking:
when i first went to the track this year i was expecting to see the car run around 120mph( like you said). when i saw the 115mph, i couldnt believe it. i really thought the bigger tires would help pick up the mphs. i have been running cam2(100 octane unleaded), but i just picked up some leaded C12 112 octane(which i have yet to use). my exhaust is on the small side. im running hooker shorties with 1 5/8 primaries through a 3inch magnaflow cat back. but whe i race i open my electric cutout wich i installed were the cat would go. i know the primary size is probably killing me, but lets face it, there really arent to many options for our cars. would you reccommend the air bags. i heard that they are pretty effective. i want to get new rear shocks, but i dont know which shock to get. i think that it has white konis in the back. they were on the car when i got it(about 6 years ago). i just have to keep in mind that this is not a all out race car, i do drive it on the street. no i do not have relocation brackets. i dont think that the car is spinning the tires of the line. it just doesnt seem to be leaving very hard. my friend said the same thing to me when he went with me. i dont have a trans brake(700R4) so i have to foot brake the car. but i can only hold the car back until about 1700-1800rpm on a 3400 stall converter. i know on sunday my shifting was all over the place. i think the tires rubbing was screwing with me mentally. the motor makes it peek power at 6200rpm. so i shift 1-2 at 6000rpm because there is a very light delay, so by the time it shifts its right around 6200rpm. the rest of the gears i shift around 6500rpm. but for some odd reason i seem to run out of gear right before the finish line. i have a 700R4, 9inch rear with 411s, and i was running a 28inch tall tire. i run about 20* intial timing and about 38* total. my cam is .595/.595 lift and around 250sh on duration at .050. i dont have the cam card in front of me right now. i also have an 825cfm mighty demon carb with a victor Jr intake. the heads are brodix 11X CNC ported aluminum, with 10.5:1 compression. thats basically it. let me know what you think. you obviously have alot more experience than myself. im really appreciative that you are taking you time to try and help me. thanks again

dan

[Tru2Chevy]

Well, those 1 5/8" primaries are probably holding you back some. I don't know how low your car sits, but some 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 long tubes would probably help quite a bit. Since you are running the cutout, the 3" catback shouldn't be affecting you much.

You could also try running first gear out another few hundred RPM. Since you have a 700R4, the 1-2 shift is about a 45% drop in RPM.....so every few hundred RPM more that you can get before the shift should help it to carry better.

- Justin

[heavy_chevy29]

ill deffinately try running 1-2 shift alittle higher and see were that gets me.

as for the headers, i would love to get 1 3/4 primary long tubes but my options are limited to a custom y pipe. i dont really have the money to get the whole exhaust system custom made. i could probably build a custom y pipe myself but i would probably lose my patients real quickly. and there really isnt much room for true dauls if its a street car. i dont really drive it that much so the lower ground clearnce wouldnt be that much of an issue. maybe that will be this winters project for me. ill try to route long tubes to my existing catback.

[radialtireking]

The headers are definetly on the small side. A set of 1 3/4" super comps would be a good investment. I went went high 8's with those on my car.

As for the fuel. At 10.5 to 1 I think the 100 is plenty. You will make the best power using the lowest octane you can without detonation. If its not detonating on the 100 I don't think you will see an improvement with the 112. Was the motor dynoed with that carb? What fuel was used on the dyno? Due to the change in specific gravity of the fuel the carb may need to be rejetted to compensate. It's probably going to run rich with the 112 in it. Since you have it try it but I don't think thats what you need.


Why do you think you need airbags? I'm not a big fan of them. Let me know your answer and I'll elaborate.

Get some LCA relocation brackets. You may not need them yet but you will once you get the car leaving harder. As for shocks I wouldn't worry too much untill you have traction problems.


Your converter sounds a little on the tight side. What does it flash to? What brand converter is it? Have you tried leaving at a lower rpm. A converter will flash to the same rpm regardless of waht you leave at. If its a little tight leaving at a lower rpm will often times make the car leave better than holding it up tight. My frinds 85 is very similar and his car leavs alot harder footbraking to 1200 than 1800 since it allows the converter to flash and get the car moving.

As justin stated also play around with the shift points some.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Let me know sometime when you are going to the track and I'll ty to make it out and help out if I can.

[heavy_chevy29]

its been running good on the 100 octane. i just wanted to see if the 112 would work better. the motor was dynoed with that carb(i think they used 100 octane i know it wasnt 93 or lower) as well as the distibuter. i messed with the jets to try and get it to lean out on the streets. i put the secondary side back to the way it was when they dynoed it and bumped the timming up to 20* intial and that is when it ran a best of 11.7. so im going to put the primary side back to the way it was when they dynoed it and see what that does.

the reason i ask about the airbags is because i would rather run the taller tire. i think that the car squats to much on launch. if i can stiffen it up alittle, then they shouldnt rub. i have weld prostars 15x10 with 5.5bs and a 275/60r15. i was also looking at rear coil over kit. that looks like the better option for the long run. once i get the motor dial in, it will give me way more adjustablity.

ill have to order a set of relocation brackets. they are are pretty cheap and easy to install.

i dont know what the flash is on the converter. ill try lowering my rpms on launches. its a 3400 stall if that helps, i think it a 9.5 or 10in converter and its made by vigilante.

i might try to go to the track on friday(weather permitting) just to play around with lauching the car. i just have to come up with a solution to the tires rubbing. im also going to try and go on sunday as well(again weather permitting).

thanks again i really appreciate all the help you guys have been.

dan

[heavy_chevy29]

if this helps at all, this is a pic of the car lauching on the 11.7 run (with the small tires)

http://www.printroom.com/ViewGalleryPhoto.asp?userid=gojdycz&gallery_id=876215&image_id=132

[radialtireking]

I would get the relocation brackets on and change the rear springs if needed to run the taller tires. With the relocation brackets the car shouldn't squat as much since you will be changing the instant center which should make the rear seperate from the body on launch.

I would then work on trying to find some of the power that seems to be missing. Get the car to leave hard enough that it spins and then work with the suspension. I know how to make these cars hook on drag radials.

The launch pic of the car dosen't look too bad.

[camaroracer1992]

i have 28's in the rear on my car and i use the stock rs springs on mine. i put spacers on top of the coil springs so i didnt change spring rates, best i haev cut on teh juice was a 1.461 (launching on a 200 shot). I had air bags and they were a pain in the ***. I have all spohn suspension pieces and the lca's