Front suspension rebuild!!!

[Teds89IROC]

I have spring break this week, so I started rebuilding my suspension. I thought taking out the front springs was going to be much, much worse, but it was easy. I strapped the springs to the k-member, loosened the nut for the ball joint, put a jack under the a-arm, removed the top nut holding the strut to the tower, slowly lowered the jack which allowed the a-arm to swing down all the way which relieved most of the tension on the spring and gave the strut/spindle a little shake to free the inner edge of the spring and viola! After I got the spring out I reconnected the strut to the tower and broke the ball joint. I picked up all new moog components (inner/outer tie rods, center link, idler arm and ball joints), energy suspension poly a-arm bushings, as well as a spohn sway bar set, spohn steering brace, and the eibach pro kit. I'll be adding pictures as I go along, but so far I've painted the new moog stuff as well as the a-arms. I'm going to paint the chassis and then I can put the new stuff back in. Enjoy!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture012.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture013.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture006.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture007.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture010.jpg

[ar0ck]

Its so naked

[IROCdan330]

Out of curiosity, why did you buy a steering brace (wonder bar?) if your car had one from the factory? Just wanted something a tad bit stronger?

[JSPERFORMANCE]

That car needs a K member and tubular a arms...

[Mike]

That car needs a K member and tubular a arms...

:nod:

[WildBillyT]

Ted- don't forget to grease up those control arm bushings! And when you inevitebly get that "whale snot" on your hands and such WD-40 takes it off pretty well.

[chrisfrom nj]

looks great ted good luck if you need a wonder bar i have one for sale

[Teds89IROC]

Out of curiosity, why did you buy a steering brace (wonder bar?) if your car had one from the factory? Just wanted something a tad bit stronger?
yup, I'll show a size comparison later today, it's at least twize the size. My old steering box got twisted off the frame years ago, so now that I run 275's up front I figured the added strength would be necessary.


That car needs a K member and tubular a arms...

When I swap engines (years from now) I'm hoping to do those as well ;-)



Ted- don't forget to grease up those control arm bushings! And when you inevitebly get that "whale snot" on your hands and such WD-40 takes it off pretty well.

Thanks for the heads up!

[deadtrend1]

the big spohn one wont clear dual fans unless you grind down the plastic a bit. Just FYI...

I had that problem when I ordered the UMI one, so I returned it and got the TDS one instead.

[//<86TA>\\]

looking good

hows the ground clearance on the exhaust?



That car needs a K member and tubular a arms...

mine too, im waiting for UMI to Finish there 3rd gen one...
________
LovelyWendie (http://www.lovelywendie99.com/)

[its Jeanne-Marie]

the big spohn one wont clear dual fans unless you grind down the plastic a bit. Just FYI...

I had that problem when I ordered the UMI one, so I returned it and got the TDS one instead.


Thanks for the heads up, I'll have pics when I get to that point lol.

Today I put the march pulley set on (really easy to get to the crank pulley without the sway bar and wonder bar on) I also changed my motor mounts, I had them in the garage and with the control arms out getting at the bolts wasn't too difficult. The old ones were pretty bad, the new ones raised the engine about 1/2 inch:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/P8020046.jpg

I started to go over the wheel wells to prep them for paint and I came across some rot on the inner fender. Leaves and crap have been caught between the inner fender and firewall which held water and moisture which rotted out the area. I cut out all the rot and I'll weld in a patch tomorrow:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/P8020049.jpg

-Ted

[68camaroguy]

i wish i could fit 275s up front... **** mine are only 205s for now.. but i did get 325s for the back :)

[The Fixer]

Lookin' good Ted!

[edpontiac91]

Just a note on the condition of the lower "A" arms, they might look a lot better if you can get them glass beaded and then shoot them in SEMI FLAT black(instead of the gloss)because it will not show up the rough surface or the rust areas as much. Right now the GLOSS shows up all the imperfections. Use rubberized undercoat on the fender wells because it will dry rather quickly and again, it will hide some of the rough surface better(plus have a factory look). Just my:2cents:

[Teds89IROC]

looking good

hows the ground clearance on the exhaust?
..

I have about 3.5" ground clearance at the lowest point which is the collector, but that was with old stock springs. I gained about 1/4-1/2 of ground clearance though from the motor mounts, they raised the engine and in turn raised my headers a bit too. I'll get measurments after the pro kit is in and post them up.

Just a note on the condition of the lower "A" arms, they might look a lot better if you can get them glass beaded and then shoot them in SEMI FLAT black(instead of the gloss)because it will not show up the rough surface or the rust areas as much. Right now the GLOSS shows up all the imperfections. Use rubberized undercoat on the fender wells because it will dry rather quickly and again, it will hide some of the rough surface better(plus have a factory look). Just my:2cents:

Thanks for the input. I was going to sand blast the control arms but at the time the sand I had was too wet to use so I just went over them with a wire wheel. I got this paint from the auto body supply place I use that is specifically meant for the chassis. It says it also stops existing/prevents new rust :shrug: It dries rather quickly and can be sprayed on or brushed and it seems to have a rubberized texture to it when it dries. It's also satin black; I took those picture right after I sprayed the last coat on so they are more dull right now that they have dried. I'll eventually be swapping in tubular control arms so this is good enough for now.

Thanks for all the other compliments/opinions!

[chrisfrom nj]

por 15 is the best

[68camaroguy]

hey ted whats the car in the background of the first pic??

[Teds89IROC]

that's my brothers 69 nova, he just did leaf springs in it. He's registered here under
69novaguy, though he doesn't come on too often. Funny you guys have similar UN's lol

[unstable bob gable]

Isn't it nice when you can take the time to do a nice job, and you are working on a nice car? I miss my days of working on nice cars. :cry:

[68camaroguy]

awesome. i like novas, i almost bought a 66 before i found my camaro

[Teds89IROC]

welder crapped out so I had to rivet in a panel:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture047.jpg

[qwikz28]

did you upgrade to poly motor mounts?

[Teds89IROC]

Nope, the mounts I had were rubber.

[qwikz28]

why didn't you throw some polys in there?

[Teds89IROC]

I already had the rubber ones that I bought when I put the headers in, just didn't install them. They should last me till the time I'm ready financially for an engine swap, by that time I'd like to have a tubular k-member as well, so they'll get poly's then ;-)

[Teds89IROC]

Got the k-member, rad. support, and front wheel wells painted today:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture060.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture054.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture062.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture063.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture066.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/Picture068.jpg

The paint is the same used on the control arms, original satin. Even now at 1:40am the paint is still wet so once it dries completely it won't be glossy anymore. Now that I'm back to reality (school and work) the weekends are my only time to finish up so hopefully I'll be back on the road and aligned shortly.

[maroman88]

looookin goooooood, wish i had time to do my 88 like this lol

[Blacdout96]

wow,quite the difference. nice job man

[maroman88]

upon thinking about that rot problem u had i may pull out my inner liners and take a peek back there! clean it up and apply some rubber undercoating

[Blacdout96]

I just applied some ol' undercoat to the maro a couple weeks back. There was a small rust spot, adn I poked it, adn it turned out to be a big rust problem. Luckely it didnt rust through, just surface, so I got the dremel out, cleaned it all up till the undercoating had a silverish color instead of brown, use the rust preventer,a dn then undercoated it, hopefully I wont have to go through that again.

[maroman88]

well thanks a bunch ted! i pulled that inner fender and a small 1x2inch glob of rust fell out, didnt rot thru yet tho so thanks for brining it to my attention, tomarrow ill finish cleaning it up and and undercoat it, then its off to the passenger side

[Teds89IROC]

haha I'm glad you caught it before it became a bigger problem!

Update:

Got the control arms back on:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/P8180011.jpg

As well as both front springs, spindles, struts, calipers/rotors:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/P8180023.jpg

With the whole assemble off the car I couldn't break the bolts loose to seperate the strut from the spindle to repaint them. They only have maybe 3000 miles on them but because the car sits they developed surface rust, so after alignment I can get them off the car and repaint them silver.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/strutspindlecropped.jpg

[WildBillyT]

With the whole assemble off the car I couldn't break the bolts loose to seperate the strut from the spindle to repaint them. They only have maybe 3000 miles on them but because the car sits they developed surface rust, so after alignment I can get them off the car and repaint them silver.


Ted-

KYB GR-2's, right? Mine did the exact same thing and they look like ass now. I don't think they were "painted" as much as they were just "dusted" when they were made.

[maroman88]

my GR2's are starting to look like that after maybe 5 years

[SteveR]

Looking good! Did you sand down the a-arms/k-member before repainting?

[//<86TA>\\]

*cough*brakeupgrade*cough*
________
Bondage black (http://www.****tube.com/categories/373/black/videos/1)

[deadtrend1]

*cough*brakeupgrade*cough*


*cough*F-Body Big Brake Upgrades (http://www.bigbrakeupgrade.com/)*cough*

[//<86TA>\\]

*cough*edmiller on TGO*sneeze*
________
Infant Care Advice (http://www.health-forums.org/infant-care/)

[Featherburner]

*cough*edmiller on TGO*sneeze*
Sounds like you're coming down with something. You better get some rest.:-P

[//<86TA>\\]

Sounds like you're coming down with something. You better get some rest.:-P

:lol:
________
Paxil Lawsuit (http://www.classactionsettlements.org/lawsuit/paxil/)

[Teds89IROC]

Yup, those are the GR2's and I agree with you Bill, they probably were just "dusted." I guess that partially explains the low cost lol. I ruffed up the k-member/control arms and got off any real chunks or flaking before I painted them. I used this chassis restorer which is meant to go over rust/bare metal and its suppose to match factory original undercoat minus the rubber. I guess I'll find out in a couple months if it does really stop rust lol. I'm confident it will, its really strong stuff and was recommended by the auto body supplier I use. As far as the brakes, bigger brakes require $$$ lol, so they'll be the next project to save up for. I'm a poor college student trying to graduate so all in good time. I did however replace all the calipers/rubber lines within the last 3 years, and the front rotors and bearings within the last year so they all function to their capacity at least.

[edpontiac91]

That is one COST $$$$ project that will have to wait for me. The STOCK rear disc brakes are garbage. The emergency brake will not hold and they barely apply any pressure when the brake is applied. I have replaced the master cylinder, new rotors, new pads and used the special instructions on how to adjust the parking brake play, but to no avail. The 1LE brake package would be awesome, but I will go with the aftermarket design when the money allows.

[Teds89IROC]

Update: Got the sway bar, end links, wonder bar, center link, outer/inner tie rods, and idler arm put together. Now I just need to bleed the brakes and the front is done! Next is the rear springs and sway bar which is cake and it's off to alignment!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/TeddyHELLO/IROC-Z/P8230006.jpg

[deadtrend1]

Did you grind the fans for the wonderbar? Can you take close pics of it near the fan bolts??? PWEASSSSEEE???

[chrisfrom nj]

looks great ted good job

[Teds89IROC]

Thanks Chris!

Tim, I can get a pic for you tomorrow when I'm back home. I had to grind the plastic down a little bit which was no problem with the air grinder, but I also had to lengthen the bolt holes on one side of the bar which was a PITA.

[deadtrend1]

Thats what I figured Ted. Like I said, I had the UMI and sent it back and bought the TDS one. Just didn't know how much you had to grind.

Why couldn't they make one that just ..... fit. ya know?

[edpontiac91]

Thats what I figured Ted. Like I said, I had the UMI and sent it back and bought the TDS one. Just didn't know how much you had to grind.

Why couldn't they make one that just ..... fit. ya know?

I don't know about the UMI or TDS or the WTF brands, but I installed a STOCK GM IROC WONDERBAR on the 1991 Formula and it fit without a single problem! :nod:

[deadtrend1]

I don't know about the UMI or TDS or the WTF brands, but I installed a STOCK GM IROC WONDERBAR on the 1991 Formula and it fit without a single problem! :nod:

yea, stock ones fit, along with the TDS ones, couple other brands. The oversized ones like UMI or Spohn sell, are too big and they never tell you you have to grind your fans to make it fit.

[maroman88]

looks effin sweeet

[bad64chevelle]

why didn't you throw some polys in there?

:shrug: I broke my set of Poly's. Maybe it was just that set was a defect, but I went with solid motor mounts and they have worked well. Poly Trans mount though and its not very violent.


Looks great Ted!!!

[edpontiac91]

yea, stock ones fit, along with the TDS ones, couple other brands. The oversized ones like UMI or Spohn sell, are too big and they never tell you you have to grind your fans to make it fit.

For 99% of most of the applications, do you REALLY NEED the oversized bars? (other then bragging rights) The stock IROC alone is a good upgrade for the street and I've never heard of anyone bending one those unless your doing some really HEAVY autocross. I was quite surprised when I first found out that the Firebird never had one and that the GM bean counters figured that whatever problem it solved in the IROC's could never happen in the Bird's. Yeah right!

[Teds89IROC]

Thanks again guys! The wonderbar I have is Spohn and after I bought it I heard about all the problems with it. Ed, the reason why I bought the bigger one is because I have 275 tires up front. Years ago I heard creaking from the area of my steering box when I would turn the wheel and one day at school I went to turn into a parking spot and the bolts holding the box to the frame broke. I was able to see part of the frame had cracked from the box twisting so my boss welded it back up and I bought a new steering box. I decided to go with the bigger wonderbar to alleviate some of the pressure put on the steering box and the one frame rail. The new wonderbar makes the stock one look like a joke.

[edpontiac91]

Thanks again guys! The wonderbar I have is Spohn and after I bought it I heard about all the problems with it. Ed, the reason why I bought the bigger one is because I have 275 tires up front. Years ago I heard creaking from the area of my steering box when I would turn the wheel and one day at school I went to turn into a parking spot and the bolts holding the box to the frame broke. I was able to see part of the frame had cracked from the box twisting so my boss welded it back up and I bought a new steering box. I decided to go with the bigger wonderbar to alleviate some of the pressure put on the steering box and the one frame rail. The new wonderbar makes the stock one look like a joke.

Gotcha point. You already had a problem BEFORE you had the Wonderbar installed. My point was that if you are looking to improve the handling and relieve the pressure at that area, it is a great part to install BEFORE the problem sets in. I wonder if ANYBODY ever checked out the area around the steering box from an IROC that had on the Wonder bar to see if any cracking was starting to occur? Aside from the fact that the Spohn is thicker, have you heard of anyone that had on the STOCK bar and twisted it out of shape. For most of us(you included)I think that we drive our cars on the safe side of ultimate handling. Whatever floats your boat, if you like'em thicker, then buy the Spohn or save some bucks and put on a stock IROC bar which may very well work just as good. Just my :2cents:

[Teds89IROC]

I'm not sure if you just overlooked it, but my car is an original iroc and I've had a stock wonderbar on the car the whole time. The steering box broke off of the frame rail while the stock wonderbar was on the car. I think what caused greater stress on the steering box against the rail was the fact that I got rid of my stock 245 tires (and wheels) and put on 17" wheels with 275 tires. Any wonderbar is better than none, as in your case, but because I already had problems occur with the stock wonderbar in place I wanted to get a bigger one.

[edpontiac91]

I'm not sure if you just overlooked it, but my car is an original iroc and I've had a stock wonderbar on the car the whole time. The steering box broke off of the frame rail while the stock wonderbar was on the car. I think what caused greater stress on the steering box against the rail was the fact that I got rid of my stock 245 tires (and wheels) and put on 17" wheels with 275 tires. Any wonderbar is better than none, as in your case, but because I already had problems occur with the stock wonderbar in place I wanted to get a bigger one.

OK Ted, I didn't know the past situation. I'am quite surprised that your STOCK bar gave up, but the larger wheels and tires must REALLY put a load on that piece. I guess if you have the stock WS6 suspension, the bar should work OK, but for most of the people that have upgraded to 17" wheels and tires I guess they are in for a world of trouble down the road.:shock:

[Teds89IROC]

Car is done :-D I'll try and get pics tomorrow! I'm scheduled for an alignment next Friday at 9am

[edpontiac91]

Car is done :-D I'll try and get pics tomorrow! I'm scheduled for an alignment next Friday at 9am

Since I'll be putting in the Eibach Pro-Kit springs in the next few weeks, let me know how much lower the car ACTUALLY GOT? They say 1" lower. Also how does it ride? You have the 17" wheels and tires, so that alone would have caused a harshness in overall ride, while I still have the 16" Goodyear GS-C tires.

[Teds89IROC]

I'll def. post up about it. Just looks alone I saw a difference with the front when I let it down off the jack stands and I heard they settle a little more over time.

[Teds89IROC]

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