2pt or 3pt SFC's?

[usp55]

Looking for good quality SFC’s and want to know if a 3pt system is better or even worth it as opposed to the 2pt connectors. Looking for the best - as i would love to reduce dash rattle (didnt realize it might help reduce them with SFC's till i started researching - so now i really want them)



http://www.lmperformance.com/18421/14.html

http://www.lmperformance.com/15806/14.html

http://www.lmperformance.com/18835/14.html

[WildBillyT]

2 point connectors help with beaming stiffness. 3 point do beaming stiffness and torsional stiffness. If you have the room underneath (exhausts get in the way) I'd do 3 point.

[Pampered-Z]

3pt. also for dash rattles you will want to look into a solid strut tower brace.

[HardcoreZ28]

Definitely 3 point. You should look into Spohn's tubular ones....very nice. If you're interested in a set let me know....I sell them for 10% off

[deadtrend1]

Im going to say 2 points for a street driven car.

3 point for a auto x/drag car/street car

[Pampered-Z]

I disagree about the 2 point, only because our cars need as much support as possible. I've got SLP 3 pt SFC, LG 3-point STB ( the one the hard mounts under the windsheild ), and at 40K miles I still twisted the car enough to dimple the rear quarters with only 330RWHP.

The supports are not going to hurt ride quality so get the most support possible, and weld the SFC in.

[EchoMirage]

from what the guy at UMI says, the 2pt. is all you need, unless youre running a new torque arm, with mounting points for the 3pt.

[jl ws-6]

I had the 3 pt slp ones on my car, but I have since cut the diamond portion out, for a couple reasons. I just got done installing a 10 pt cage, at this point if the car twists, there's something wrong. That, and I needed the clearnace for the dual 3.5 inch exhaust, which is on and tucked up very nicely I might add.

Will the car flex more now, I would like to hope the cage will put a stop to any of that.

[Blacdout96]

I run 3pt. on my V6, but I do autocross and such. If you dont intend on doing any racing, or where the body will flex under imense load, just go with 2pt.

[maroman88]

i just ordered a set of UMI 2 pointers for the Z28

[qwikz28]

i got a 2pt. because i was worried of y-pipe clearance.

[Blacdout96]

i got a 2pt. because i was worried of y-pipe clearance.

Thats a very good point oo, exhaust clearance which I really dont have none now

[usp55]

i got the 3pt's on the way but they havent shipped yet and i ordered them last monday. I just dont see how u can have exhaust problems with them, unless u have some crazy off road X pipe or something like that

http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2004b.jpg

[qwikz28]

my exhaust doesn't tuck up that high :(

[sweetbmxrider]

your v6 shouldn't have any issues really. my under-carraige isn't nearly that nice, and my exhaust isn't tucked up as nice.

[EchoMirage]

i got the 3pt's on the way but they havent shipped yet and i ordered them last monday. I just dont see how u can have exhaust problems with them, unless u have some crazy off road X pipe or something like that

http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2004b.jpg


that pic has an off-road Y pipe. thats probably why it fits. with my TSP catted Y, i doubt a 3pt would fit.

[qwikz28]

that pic has an off-road Y pipe. thats probably why it fits. with my TSP catted Y, i doubt a 3pt would fit.

do you have subframes?

[EchoMirage]

do you have subframes?

not yet. plan on getting probably UMI 2pt. soon.

[qwikz28]

not yet. plan on getting probably UMI 2pt. soon.

report back when you do. it will be nice to see if you notice any difference on the autocross track and on the street.

[usp55]

on a side note whats the best way to instal my SFC's when they finally show up to my door. I got a bolt on set (i realize welding them in is stronger) as I plan on another Fbody with some balls and it would be nice to transfer them over. I have read that the suspension needs be loaded, so what I should go buy another set of ramps for my rear tires to rest on too...

[Blacdout96]

I did the mistake of doing one side at a time,which dostorted the body enough for me to turn a half hour job into a 3 hour job. you can raise the car , but make sure it is level all around, cause if the body is distorted a little, it can be a P.I.T.A . Best thing to have is a lift tho, so if you know someone who has one, do it there.

[qwikz28]

on a side note whats the best way to instal my SFC's when they finally show up to my door. I got a bolt on set (i realize welding them in is stronger) as I plan on another Fbody with some balls and it would be nice to transfer them over. I have read that the suspension needs be loaded, so what I should go buy another set of ramps for my rear tires to rest on too...

the only important thing is to have the frame loaded, as in the weight of the car on the tires. if its at a shop, make sure they do it on a lift like this:
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/racks/4718T/images/cover.jpg
and not like this:
http://www.arrowtrading.co.za/data/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/e1e500aeed838378288fe7913d063c36.gif

[EchoMirage]

a lift that you can drive onto. thats whats keeping me from doing bolt-ins myself. ill probably end up getting welded ones done. but the front and rear have to be as level as they are when driving. so you cant just use a set of ramps or jack up one side and do it.

[V]

i put jack stands under the rear axle, and under the front control arms.... and spohn makes a TQ arm with the crossmember lowered in order to clear larger/long tube exhausts...

pic of my TQ arm/SFC setup....(just no y pipe in pic...)

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/subframes2.jpg

[maroman88]

on a side note whats the best way to instal my SFC's when they finally show up to my door. I got a bolt on set (i realize welding them in is stronger) as I plan on another Fbody with some balls and it would be nice to transfer them over. I have read that the suspension needs be loaded, so what I should go buy another set of ramps for my rear tires to rest on too...

i got mine yesterday! i read the instructions and they tell u how to do it.... front of the car on ramps..... back of the car on jackstands, bolt everything up loose, jack up the rear and load it, move the jackstands to the rear itself and lower the jack, now go tighten all the bolts up......

[usp55]

thanks maro - did u order direct from UMI or bought through another companies website, because im still waiting for my UMI 3pts to arrive

[maroman88]

i was lookin at LMperformance, when i discovered u could order direct from UMI, i orderd on a friday from UMI, they shipped on monday and i had them on wednesday! pretty quick

[usp55]

well then never again will i order from LMP cause im still waiting. I didnt know i could order direct and i ordered from LMP before with quick shipping

EDIT: the email notification right after this one was an LMP shipment notifcation from LMP haha. My 3pts will be here monday. 2 weeks after I ordered, lookins like ill be ordering direct from UMI next time.

[CaysE]

I had Spohn 3-points on my '86 Camaro, installed by Steve himself. I honestly don't see the need for that enormous contraption you guys are showing pictures of... the body is supposed to have SOME flex to it. And the Spohns felt awesome. They cleared everything and didn't even reduce ground clearance.

I know it's been a while since I've been on the f-body forums, but 4 years ago, Spohn was hands down the best at this. Then everyone with an Internet degree in engineering decided they were somehow inferior, as far as I can tell, cause most people on TGO seem to talk crap about them. I don't know how that happened, but it sounds silly to me. Tubular and zero ground clearance loss is the way to go on a street car.

Anyway, those are my thoughts.

[usp55]

My UMI 3points came today and just got back from a short drive to break’em in. Took me all of 3.5 hours to put them in and almost an hour was dedicated to getting my diver side rear control arm bolt out. That thing was not coming out, but after prob half a can of PB and a torch it finally broke.

Car is feels very tight and is a little more responsive. Acceleration is smoother and best of all almost all of my dash rattle is gone, i can feel the vibrations in my seat but for the most part they are gone. Im very happy. Next is rear control arms (fully adj, single adj, or non adj???? not sure yet)

[sweetbmxrider]

if you ever plan on lowering the car, i'd get adjustables.

[usp55]

thats why i think im just gona take it slow and get the fully adj RCA's and pan hard rod, like another 300 or so. Depending on the rims i get, that will decide if i get the lowering springs. If i lower it though, i gota tell u, i just dont see how its goin to be possible. I put my larger West wings air dam on the car last week and i love it because i cant get the car to go above 180degrees but it smacks everything! its so low. and the GFX already take a beating in the front. If i lower it 2in the air dam rill be on the ground the the body kit about 2in off the ground. If would look sick but wouldnt be practicle for a DD

[sweetbmxrider]

yeah i hear that. thats why im steerin clear of body kits. maybe a slight drop in the rear? or the heater hose mod...

[CaysE]

Single-adjustable LCAs and panhard are fine... you're not going to break them. Double-adjustable is overkill, but I thought you were sticking with stock ride height?

[sweetbmxrider]

i think he is. i just suggested to do them if he ever planned on lowering

[CaysE]

I wouldn't even bother with the adjustable suspension stuff, then. Some solid aftermarket parts would be great, but even stockers with poly bushings would work.

[usp55]

i didnt heater hose mod but dont like how it make my front seem "higher". If i drop the car it will be after i decide on rims (18's - something black with a deep, deep machined lip. TTM's or Ruff racing 280's - but I dont want to deal with the 280's not being hubcentric)

more likely than not i wont drop the car - id like to at the very least upgrade the parts even if simply to a solid and non-adj.

[sweetbmxrider]

id definitely look into spohn products from hardcorez28. great deal and a good guy. he could probably do a package deal if you get a couple things

[usp55]

im kinda anal about colors on the car. STB is red, UMI SFC's are red - and sphon is black right?

edit that: they are red too. ill give him a yell when i put the cash together

[sweetbmxrider]

yeah red or black. i did red as well. i wish i had red springs but oh well.

[CaysE]

Black is better. zzzzzzzzzz ;)

[V]

i think i still hold the record for lowest static ride height f body on this site... i was down to about 1.5" of clearence under my TQ arm crossmember.

[Knipps]

i think i still hold the record for lowest static ride height f body on this site... i was down to about 1.5" of clearence under my TQ arm crossmember.

but it looked so good :drool: