View Full Version : New rear!
usp55
07-14-2008, 08:26 PM
Just won a rear from fpats in Bristol, pa on ebay. It’s of a 96 with 3.42 gears, posi, and disk breaks. I can’t wait to go pick it up. If i take the pass side seat out i can prob fit it in the car right? I really dont have any other option right now, work long odd hours and im already over in philly for work so it would be nice to pic it up before work
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&viewitem=&item=380043477600&_trksid=p3907.m32
Id like to clean it up while its off the car. What kind of prep needs to be done before I apply a product such as POR-15 or Eastwood's paint. Por-15 says it to be applied directly to rust but leaving the rust under there bothers me. Anyone have experience with there products?
Its gona be a great next few weeks for the car, I have to decide if i want to try and install the rear myself or outsource it to a site sponsor, TT2's will be here next week hopefully, have to get the sphon PHR on for the 315's, new genuine GM bump stops came in yesterday too, going to redo the exhaust (2.5" true duals, H-piped hopefully over the axle but well see) Stay Tuned!
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 08:36 PM
J....I can’t wait to go pick it up. If i take the pass side seat out i can prob fit it in the car right
Umm, ehh ... i wouldn't really do that. Its heavy and ackward to lift, and it would be a bitch to fit. If you wan't to give me cash for some gas, I would be more then happy to go with you to pick it up. Or I can pick it up for you this week if you already paid them. let me know.
~Tim
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 08:41 PM
Oh, and por15 car be applied directly to the rust if you use their cleaning agen first. Or its quick and easy to take a wire wheel to knock the rust off and apply the por15. Wear GLOVES!! The stuff gets EVERYWHERE.
usp55
07-14-2008, 08:45 PM
Umm, ehh ... i wouldn't really do that. Its heavy and ackward to lift, and it would be a bitch to fit. If you wan't to give me cash for some gas, I would be more then happy to go with you to pick it up. Or I can pick it up for you this week if you already paid them. let me know.
~Tim
I figured that, I can prob wait till the weekend to take my moms mini suv (Santa fe) Just thought it would be convienent. Thanks for the offer though Tim. Maybe ill trade cars with her for the day, ehh just got a chill
yea i was just gona take some simple green to degrease it, spray on their etching spray and then brush on the por15. I thought maybe there was more to it.
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 08:50 PM
Its funny they say use the etching spray when por15 FIRST came out they said it can go directly on rust. Then they came out with the spray .... its interesting.
The rear isn't that hard to do. I can lend a hand if need be.
I guess someone else would know, but with going to a higher gear, would the shift points need reprogrammed in the computer? Obviously the speedometer would ....
usp55
07-14-2008, 08:55 PM
Its funny they say use the etching spray when por15 FIRST came out they said it can go directly on rust. Then they came out with the spray .... its interesting.
The rear isn't that hard to do. I can lend a hand if need be.
I guess someone else would know, but with going to a higher gear, would the shift points need reprogrammed in the computer? Obviously the speedometer would ....
The spray is really for smooth metals so i guess if its rusted over the por15 should stick anyway. One part of thier site says to use the spray and another say to paint right over the rust.
Thats exatly why im dont wont to try to install it. I have a decent set of tools, jacks of all sizes, jackstands but its a major part of the car and i think id rather not worry about it. I figured one of our shops will know exactly how to deal with the spedo and shift points. plus if its as simple as people make it out to be i cant imagine to many hours of labor involved. I dont know hopefully someone can chime in
*also looking for a one peice driveshaft, I cant imagine fparts not having one on site so ill see what they have
sweetbmxrider
07-14-2008, 08:57 PM
i imagine you would have to reprogram your computer with a hypertech or a tuner. not positive about the shift points though.
JSPERFORMANCE
07-14-2008, 09:08 PM
My shop is right around the corner from Contemporary if you would like you can go get the rear then bring it here and I can do the install for you without you having to make multiple trips... Think of the gas savings!!!!
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 09:12 PM
Thats a great idea Josh. Yer so smart and helpful!
JSPERFORMANCE
07-14-2008, 09:15 PM
I try.
BonzoHansen
07-14-2008, 09:29 PM
Its funny they say use the etching spray when por15 FIRST came out they said it can go directly on rust. Then they came out with the spray .... its interesting.
The rear isn't that hard to do. I can lend a hand if need be.
I guess someone else would know, but with going to a higher gear, would the shift points need reprogrammed in the computer? Obviously the speedometer would ....
Highly recommend the etch on smooth or semi smooth metal - like axle tubes. Pitted rusty metal it is not required.
BonzoHansen
07-14-2008, 09:29 PM
Thats a great idea Josh. Yer so smart and helpful!
Kiss-ass!
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 09:33 PM
Kiss-ass!
shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ......................
BonzoHansen
07-14-2008, 10:41 PM
shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ......................
We all know U <3 the taste
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 10:59 PM
We all know U <3 the taste
OH STHOP IT! I wasn't kissthingup to him. I forgot how close his shop is to Contemp. Corvette.
And don't you need the upper panhard relocation to fit true duals over the axel... no?
usp55
07-14-2008, 11:12 PM
"Q. Can I have duals and have the pipes ran out the back where the factory pipes were?
A. Yes. It can be done but it usually is a bit expensive to get the pipes ran out the back. This is due to it being fairly difficult to get both pipes over the axle because it is very space limited up there. There are setups that have both pipes going over the passenger side on the rear axle and there are setups that have one pipe over the driver axle and the other pipe goes under the axle. Also, you can buy a new upper PHR to help running 2 pipes over the passenger side of the rear end (see post#2)."
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531756 few pages of different setups on that topic
deadtread please tell me that wasnt always your slogan under your name...f'in hilarious
BonzoHansen
07-14-2008, 11:12 PM
only if they are 3" setups, but even there are many people who have done 3'' over the axle. so its just easier with with 2.5" and even easier with the relocation bracket for the PHR.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531756&page=20 few pages of different setups on that topic
deadtread please tell me that wasnt always your slogan under your name...f'in hilarious
He earned that name the hard way...$0.25 at a time....
deadtrend1
07-14-2008, 11:16 PM
deadtread please tell me that wasnt always your slogan under your name...f'in hilarious
ah, good find on the thread.
And its been up there for awhile. Its a little joke over something I said once.
He earned that name the hard way...$0.25 at a time....
Man, I wish I got paid that well
WildBillyT
07-15-2008, 09:45 AM
Or its quick and easy to take a wire wheel to knock the rust off and apply the por15.
Not trying to be an ******* but this isn't going to give you the best results. POR15 needs a lot of tooth to work properly. Which means you either paint it over rust (hence the name) or sandblast, or if it's clean metal you have to etch it very well.
I know the wire wheeling followed directly by POR doesn't work because I've done it, and the POR won't stick right. It will peel and scrape off.
bubba428
07-15-2008, 09:57 AM
I'll take a ride back out for a rear install...I have a spare steel DS too
usp55
07-15-2008, 10:10 AM
Its a little joke over something I said once.
i think its best if we just leave it at that, i dont even want to know. lol
POR15 needs a lot of tooth to work properly. Which means you either paint it over rust (hence the name)
"POR" = Pour on Rust...makes sense now. Any need for the top coat? Since it wont be in sunlight i think ill just leave it alone
I'll take a ride back out for a rear install...I have a spare steel DS too
Thanks for the offer, i know youd help out but i think im gona leave this one up to josh. I hope to have the car ready for the 9th. How much lighter is the aluminum DS compared to the Steel one? If im gona upgrade should i go for the aluminum one? bout 115 before ship on ebay
Oh and bubba whats going on with your 3.4?
WildBillyT
07-15-2008, 10:30 AM
i think its best if we just leave it at that, i dont even want to know. lol
"POR" = Pour on Rust...makes sense now. Any need for the top coat? Since it wont be in sunlight i think ill just leave it alone
Thanks for the offer, i know youd help out but i think im gona leave this one up to josh. I hope to have the car ready for the 9th. How much lighter is the aluminum DS compared to the Steel one? If im gona upgrade should i go for the aluminum one? bout 115 before ship on ebay
Oh and bubba whats going on with your 3.4?
I'd topcoat it with Rust Oleum professional. $4 for better looks and protects against any UV damage to the POR.
ins0mnia24
07-15-2008, 11:06 AM
You are better off trying the POR15 starter kit for $15
It is a full kit that comes with the Cleaner, Metal ready which will etch any clean or bare metal and enough POR15 to cover 12 sq ft..
We used that exact kit in Semi gloss black on a friends car he ended up moving to Michigan 2 years later it is still holding up on his car..
deadtrend1
07-15-2008, 03:53 PM
Not trying to be an ******* but this isn't going to give you the best results. POR15 needs a lot of tooth to work properly. Which means you either paint it over rust (hence the name) or sandblast, or if it's clean metal you have to etch it very well.
I know the wire wheeling followed directly by POR doesn't work because I've done it, and the POR won't stick right. It will peel and scrape off.
yea weren't being one. When it comes to rust and restoration you definetly know more then I do.
bubba428
07-15-2008, 08:38 PM
i think its best if we just leave it at that, i dont even want to know. lol
"POR" = Pour on Rust...makes sense now. Any need for the top coat? Since it wont be in sunlight i think ill just leave it alone
Thanks for the offer, i know youd help out but i think im gona leave this one up to josh. I hope to have the car ready for the 9th. How much lighter is the aluminum DS compared to the Steel one? If im gona upgrade should i go for the aluminum one? bout 115 before ship on ebay
Oh and bubba whats going on with your 3.4?
getting a few parts together then seeing what I can do with out the clutch...might just get it in and running then do the clutch
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