socket in distributor shaft??!??

[Jersyboyy]

I was using a coupler wiht a flat head attached to an extension attached to my drill to prime the oil pump. Went to pull it out coupler with flat bit fell in. Extension and drill came out coupler and bit are somewhere in that motor. How do I get it out.

I dropped the oil pan but it looks like i have to remove the transmission and the raise the engine to get it off!? 2 days of work and im farther behind then I was before. Any info can help and Id appreicate the negative "o your screwed" HAHA THAT SUCKS" comments to be kept to ones self.

Thanks

[GP99GT]

i'd say youll have to drop the pan, whatever it takes to do that...unless somehow you can get it to fall down to the oil drain

on a ford you could take the timing cover off since the dizzy is in the front and try to get it out of the pan that way ;)

[LTb1ow]

get a magnet pen.

[Jersyboyy]

I dont think it actually went to the pan...i tried to turn the motor over with the socket and it gets to a point where it wont move any more so im guessing now somehtings making contact with the bit and keeping it from moving, is this coupler stuck in the oil pump, the crankshaft or what? Any fbody guys know how to remove th oil pan without taking out the tranny.

[Jersyboyy]

This is WAY past a magnet pen I wish it would have been that easy.

[LTb1ow]

I dropped the pan on my 4th gen. Its possible, but it takes a while.

[Jersyboyy]

Well that thing fell in the pan. Im trying to get it out now.

[LTb1ow]

How big is it? Can you stick a magnet on the bottom of the pan, drag it to the oil drain and then use a magnet pen to get it out?

[Tru2Chevy]

you don't have to remove the trans, but you do have the raise the motor a few inches to get the pan off.

- Justin

[Jersyboyy]

I have a big magnet i used to try to at least find where in the pan the socket is by listening to the drag of metal to metal contact. Cant find it. Iv looked form every angle with a little led lights cant find it. Its gotta be wedged somewhere in the drain pan. What kind of damage will this cause if I CANNOT find this thing and run it considering IT IS wedged in the bottom of pan? Ill be up all night trying to find this thing and puttin the res tof the motor back together.

[Jersyboyy]

unbolt the engine from the tranny then unbolt the motor mounts, then raise the motor? Or just jack the motor up and pull the drain pan out?

[LTb1ow]

Both, but I think manuals have a harder time with it than autos... And its not fun. I had a car lift when I did mine, and we still couldn't fully get the pan off. The windage tray doesn't clear the crank unless you really get it up there. And you really want to make sure that that piece isn't sitting on top of the tray where it could get smacked by the crank.

[Tru2Chevy]

Take a guess at what's gonna happen to the socket if the crank or a rod hits it while the motor is spinning at 5,000 RPM?

I wouldn't even think about firing that engine with a socket in the oil pan.

I know it sucks man, but it's not as bad as constantly worrying when your motor is gonna randomly seize up on you because you didn't feel like doing the work to get the pan off.

- Justin

[LTb1ow]

Is there oil in the pan? And do you know a good welder? :lol: Cut the bottom of the tray off and get the part out, weld it back up. :wink:

[BonzoHansen]

Take a guess at what's gonna happen to the socket if the crank or a rod hits it while the motor is spinning at 5,000 RPM?Ooohh oohh ohh, pick me, I know the answer! PING!




The pan has to come off.

[Jersyboyy]

so i gotta unbolt the motor form the tranny!? DAM im going to be having a LONGGG NIGHT...

[BonzoHansen]

Really? Damn.

[Jersyboyy]

oil is empty oil pan is that cheap chrome **** so its probally aluminum can you weld that, o and no thats a crazy idea that i will laugh at with you but im going to take the pan out one way or another

[LTb1ow]

Nooooo, get a jack under the balancer. Raise it up till you can unbolt the mounts. Remove the big ass bolts, and raise the motor till she hits the windshield. Then try your luck at removing the pan. You may get lucky and get it down enough to get your hand in there.

[Jersyboyy]

You may get lucky and get it down enough to get your hand in there.

Thats what i was hoping for. alrite im going to head to the car now if any opne has any more advice text me 732 309 4148.
Thanks for the help fellas.

[LTb1ow]

Good luck!

[johnjzjz]

it might be to late now i did not see this till now but the mistake made was turning the motor over it let the piece roll around the cam gear - if it were me i would go for the intake lots of room than i beleve its stuck between the block and the cam gear - but i have no idea what kind of motor you have so its a guess - jz

[LTb1ow]

But wouldn't that have jammed the drill? Or maybe the cam isn't in?

[Jersyboyy]

When the motor got stuck turning it by hand it was a flexplate bolt on the intake pan.

That piece indeed fell into the pan thank you you guys I was able to raise the motor high enough to get my whole hand in their and pull it out.

Im totally leghumping shownomercy and tru2chevy. Thanks fellas. :leghump:
Now on to figuring out how to adjust the rockers and putting the dizzy in and making it work right :-P.

I feel so relieved!

[LTb1ow]

Easy sailing ahead!

[Jersyboyy]

ehh dont ginx it. I donno how to adjust the rockers its dark have no more helping hands timing? haha whats that. But we shall see fellas we shall see.

If the timing is off will that harm hurt the motor if I start it even if ishut it off if it sounds off or something. And what if the rocker arms are way to tight and I start the motor will that hurt the valve train?

[LTb1ow]

Rockers should just be a slow process. I am not sure the firing order of the engine your using but its a standard process. Spin the crank 180 each time and you get the intake valves and then the exhaust. Tighten the rockers to zero lash and then add whatever your rockers say too. From there you should be good to start her up, and if you want, while its running tighten them a bit to quiet them down. As for the timing, thats something I have not a clue on.

[Tru2Chevy]

How to adjust rockers: http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/adjust_valves.shtml

Be careful and take your time with them. Too tight can mean snapped pushrods, which make a mess inside of a running engine.

- Justin

[sweetbmxrider]

you need a timing gun to set the timing....that or bubba

[Jersyboyy]

Well I got everything together.

From what I believe the distributor is set but needs to be adjusted and the rockers are on kinda just winged them but made sure not to over tighten them.
I tried cranking the motor and the fuel line kit I got was leaking, and my floats were fudged up.
I had gas SPEWWING out of my secondaries everytime I cranked the motor over.

I removed the fuel line kit to adjust the fuel bowls found out the adapter/fittings for the fuel inline are fudged.
Any way I rigged the carb up again and kept trying to crank the motor over but it WONT START.
It cranks, sounds like it kinda wants to start will make a big POP/backfire sound here and their but nothing.

I dont know what to do any more. Anyone wanna help a dude out and lend a hand at figuring this out?

[CHRIS67]

I'd double check the firing order then move on to timing.

[crainholio]

Between the mangled cam bearing, the no-way-it's-going-to-seal oil pan gasket, the carb, and the timing...this project has taken on a life of it's own.

If it runs, go play the lottery that day.

[WildBillyT]

Well I got everything together.

From what I believe the distributor is set but needs to be adjusted and the rockers are on kinda just winged them but made sure not to over tighten them.
I tried cranking the motor and the fuel line kit I got was leaking, and my floats were fudged up.
I had gas SPEWWING out of my secondaries everytime I cranked the motor over.

I removed the fuel line kit to adjust the fuel bowls found out the adapter/fittings for the fuel inline are fudged.
Any way I rigged the carb up again and kept trying to crank the motor over but it WONT START.
It cranks, sounds like it kinda wants to start will make a big POP/backfire sound here and their but nothing.

I dont know what to do any more. Anyone wanna help a dude out and lend a hand at figuring this out?

Distributor 180* out?

[CHRIS67]

Distributor 180* out?


That is what I was thinking too. Firing on the wrong stroke.

[Pampered-Z]

You did get all the tools out of the engine before you're attempting to start it? RIGHT???

Bring the engine to Top-Dead-Center. Turn it over, after the #1 cylinder valve closes and the Piston is at the top of the stroke ( and the Timing mark on the balancer should then be at 0 on the timing marker ).

The rotor on the distributor should be pointing towards the #1 Cylinder. Install the cap with the #1 spark plug wire facing straight forward. This should give you the basic timing to get the engine started.

[bubba428]

That is what I was thinking too. Firing on the wrong stroke.

180 out...been there!!!! ever been 2 or 3 teeth off??? thats fun too...you should just buy my 350....bad ass ready to go