Winter Upgrades?

[NJSPEEDER]

I was looking at some parts and planning out what I wanted to get done on my car before spring rolls around and wondered what everyone else was planning.

Stage1 Brakes. C5 fronts, BlaineFab Ducts, braided lines, and new pads(not sure which ones yet)

Stage2 The little things, poly motor mounts, fresh tune up, replace pinion seal(it's a 10bolt, of course it leaks), relocate battery to spare tire well, and whatever other little do-dads I come up with.

Stage3 Suspension finally. LCA's, relo brackets, PHB, shocks, springs, sways.

I am sure I can come up with more ways to spend time/money on the car. Hopefully I can get through this stuff, hopefully I will have a few pennies left over for some other toys or just a few bucks to register wwwaaaayyyyy early for some track days :drive:

So whats your plan?

-Tim

[bandit88]

well my plan is to replace broken parts for teh summer upgrades
i got a bad clutch in my cavalier (its not completely there yet but 2nd gear is not healthy)
and the trans am i want to do door hinges, redo the door locks , and start planning some upgrades :)

[sweetbmxrider]

i am trying to do a c5 z06 upgrade to mine, but thats on the back burner.
hopefully i'll get the opti in and fix my oil leaks :shrug: who knows though?
at least maybe get two more ss 10 spokes and put on my winter wheels.
i want an adjustable panhard bar too but thats like if i come across some spare spare spare money.

[ins0mnia24]

You should probably examine the wheel liners on the front of your car seeing that you have a 99 Camaro..
On my 2002 both front wheel liners at the front of the wheel well were molded with an angled flap that has a 1 1/2" gap to allow the air that comes in from the Air deflector that has a a vented grill, " Right below your parking lamps "
It takes that air that passes through and directs the air towards the brakes..
Along with the air passing through the foglight hole in the nose..
On my car I cut another Inch off of that flap on the wheel liner along with I have no front grill, so I bowled out some of the front Impact foam that is underneath the nose to channel more air through the nose..
You just have to be careful with how much you take out of the Impact foam because it also use's that spot to direct air up into the engine bay which fed the factory Intake lid set-up and probably cool the engine bay..

I use this for my front plate it folds and retracks underneath the nose of my car..
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=APR%2D400&N=700+4294849006+4294847027+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=APR%2D400&N=700+4294849006+4294847027+115&autoview=sku)

[ar0ck]

Camaro:
- JS Performance Clutch
- Roll fenders

I spent all my money on the motorcycle this year to complete the front end this winter. I wanted to do a C6 Z51 brake conversion, larger front sway bar, upper and lower A-arms & poly bushings all around.

[LTb1ow]

3.73 gears and fix that leak. Some pro mags, install new coil, build 383. :twisted: Little stuff....

[Blacdout96]

I gotta rebuild the motor, send out and install my bilsteins and eibachs, install my LCA relocation brackets and adjustable PHB, and finally install T5 conversion. I also gotta get my one rear together and have my 3.42 with the Zexel LSDi nstalledi n it, these 4:10's are killing me, and I didnt even get to use them at an auto-x yet :(. I want to do the C5 as well, but when I buy I buy the best, adn im not looking to pay almost 300 bucks for the caliper brackets, adn im not gonna go cheap and buy some ebay knockoff that I have to weld together. I wanna make the brackets for my OMP seats, but I dont have a welder, so im SOL on that.

[NJ Torque]

Get a cam in the 98

get my green motor in my caged gn and run 9's next season

[Mike]

t/a.......... another transmission, freshen up the 12 bolt, fab a legal battery box into the bmr basket, 10 pt. cage, new tune

trailblazer.........maybe a 1.5 drop, new tires, dashhawk, new tune

for both, hptuners and details by rich189

[NJSPEEDER]

BlckdOut96, what problem are you having with the 4.10's? That is a great gear in a 3800 powered car, Little G and 12secondv6 both had them and their cars moved along nicely.

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

BlckdOut96, what problem are you having with the 4.10's? That is a great gear in a 3800 powered car, Little G and 12secondv6 both had them and their cars moved along nicely.

Gas I believe. Back when you disappeared he said it.

[sweetbmxrider]

I gotta rebuild the motor, send out and install my bilsteins and eibachs, install my LCA relocation brackets and adjustable PHB, and finally install T5 conversion. I also gotta get my one rear together and have my 3.42 with the Zexel LSDi nstalledi n it, these 4:10's are killing me, and I didnt even get to use them at an auto-x yet :(. I want to do the C5 as well, but when I buy I buy the best, adn im not looking to pay almost 300 bucks for the caliper brackets, adn im not gonna go cheap and buy some ebay knockoff that I have to weld together. I wanna make the brackets for my OMP seats, but I dont have a welder, so im SOL on that.

KORE3 $100 and they bolt up with the hub. real heavy duty too. well worth it. kore3.com i think

[Blacdout96]

BlckdOut96, what problem are you having with the 4.10's? That is a great gear in a 3800 powered car, Little G and 12secondv6 both had them and their cars moved along nicely.

oh it does scuttle along quite nicely, but the gas is gettign sipped up alot more then I expected, tho really i dont care, I have money for teh gas. its just cruising down the parkway at 3000-3500 rpm is what im not too fond of. If I can get to Millville's auto-x sure ill keep them in there for a little longer, but I want my 3.42 for when I drive to Conneticut, or up to north Jersey, that and its nice to have a spare rear.

[Savage_Messiah]

4.10s never dropped my gas milage too much

[Tru2Chevy]

The T5 is gonna help lower your revs a little too....slightly better overdrive.

- Justin

[The Fixer]

The T5 is gonna help lower your revs a little too....slightly better overdrive.

- Justin

:werd: .63 in the T5 vs. .70 in the 4L60-E. With 3.73s and the T5 I turn 2200 rpm at 70 mph with my 245/45 17s.

[Mulletbird]

My plans...

New (built) 23* iron heads
92-octane tune (gonna have to go to The War Room in Livonia outside of Detroit for that...)
Either a bigger single exhaust with better shorty or longtubes, or a true dual setup
Upgraded suspension for solo2
Extra frame reinforcement
(maybe) a new drivers seat ... the old one is squishy
new ball joints
new positrac
new door and hood
valve covers/gaskets
intake
carb

Might take closer to a year ... but whatever it takes. I'll get some of this done this winter, fix the daily driver first, then safety issues, then performance. Also, I need to see what my cashflow situation is like.

[NJSPEEDER]

Why would you have to go all the way to Detroit for a tune?

[Mulletbird]

Why would you have to go all the way to Detroit for a tune?

Because, they're the best. Besides, I have to head out that way for a friend's wedding - which means I also need to make some passes at the local tracks, and do other car guy stuff while I'm out there. Only people who've been to Michigan can understand about stuff like the Woodward Dream Cruise.

[NJSPEEDER]

Cool. For the exhaust, go with a big single. I have a 3.5 set up on my 99 and it sounds great. besides, a single 3.5 outflows dual 2.5's and a single 4inch will outflow dual 3's.

-Tim

[wretched73]

Get a commuter vehicle, then take the camaro off the road.

Finish prepping body kit for paint, already have fenders hood and hatch, also get doors. Then finish body work and get car into at least primer.

Fix tranny leak, clean up little bits in interior.

Start working on my motor

[crainholio]

I was looking at some parts and planning out what I wanted to get done on my car before spring rolls around and wondered what everyone else was planning.

Stage1 Brakes. C5 fronts, BlaineFab Ducts, braided lines, and new pads(not sure which ones yet)


Pads were a tough decision for me. Great street pads suck on the road course, they overheat easily and fade big time. Great track pads suck on the street, they don't stop when they're cold and need lots of heat before they wake up. Dual-purpose pads suck both on the street and track.

I spoke w/ a Hawk engineer and went with their HPS pads for street use, and HT-10 pads for the track. The material transfer film is compatible between them, so no need to re-bed when using the same rotors. I just swap on the HT-10 pads for track time, then swap back to HPS afterward.

I've been running this setup since 2004 (HT-8 pads at the time) and it works nicely. Front rotors last a season and a half before the surface tearing develops into cracks, the rears wore out after 3 seasons.

If you're willing to swap rotors for track days, no need to match up the film compatibility but it's a lot of work to get done before tech. I didn't think I could do it in the pits, especially w/ the 3rd gen hub setup using bearings and grease.

[crainholio]

I was looking at some parts and planning out what I wanted to get done on my car before spring rolls around and wondered what everyone else was planning.



For my car, the front rotors are pretty close to end of life so they're getting replaced. I have a set of Brembo replacement rotors on the shelf and I'm running 3rd gen 1LE 2-piston calipers so it'll be a 2 beer job.

With all the trans work this Summer, the drivetrain is good to go for next season. I drained and refilled the rear diff w/ Redline super heavy shockproof as usual so that's good for two seasons.

I might pull the injectors and have them cleaned & flowed for preventative maintenance. Also check resistance on the 8 ignition coils, as of last year they were all within ~0.2 KOhms of each other.

[NJSPEEDER]

I might pull the injectors and have them cleaned & flowed for preventative maintenance.

Funny you should mention that, our new sponsor, http://injector-rehab.com/ , can help you out :)

I always wonder about pads too. I went through so many sets when I used to autocross, but there was a lot more emphasis on cold stops then too, so they got eaten up quicker than most track pads will. I always loved the Porterfield pads I used for the last season I ran my 91 RS, stopped great, but dusted like hell.

-Tim

[198esp1]

the car is on a big diet trying to get down to legal c/p weight 3100 give or take a set of 3.73s mount the wilwood superlites. alignment maybe a cam if santa is good to me. new 710,s for next season.

[1QWIKBIRD]

I'm gonna whatever mods are necessary to generate these kinds of results....

http://www.maierracing.com/images/1jesusvillarreal.jpg


bad @$$.........

[ta350]

Buy my 4th F-Body, and slap a cam, long tubes, and a few other goodies in at JSP, then paint it when I have the time to work on my own vehicle.... never got around to painting my own truck lol But when I had my firehawk had that one painted the first month I owned it.

[NJSPEEDER]

I'm gonna whatever mods are necessary to generate these kinds of results....

http://www.maierracing.com/images/1jesusvillarreal.jpg


bad @$$.........


YANKIN THE PONY WHEEL!!!!!!!!! heh

See it all the time at the dirt track, looks cool and you gotta be going fast to do it, but the truth is much more like pulling a wheelie on a drag strip launch, it is more appearance than result. Cars turn better when they are using both front tires to steer.

[NJSPEEDER]

the car is on a big diet trying to get down to legal c/p weight 3100 give or take a set of 3.73s mount the wilwood superlites. alignment maybe a cam if santa is good to me. new 710,s for next season.

If you are trying to get the car down to CP weight and you want to give your suspension a hand at the same time, look into the Racecraft drop spindles. It knocks the car down 2 inches, drops I think 10lbs per side, and you swap over to 3rd gen style brakes which there are a ton of great set ups for.

With a spindle drop you can run a longer, lower rate spring for better body control and a longer bodied shock, more fluid means less temp gain and more consistant performance. :)

[198esp1]

the racecraft spindle is for drag racing im not sure that bearing will live with a315 v710 i think if it was the cats meow the frrax guys would have somebody running it. they do make a mustang spindle for road racing. my front end suspension is pretty well set up as it is.

[198esp1]

that camaro finished 8th out of 49 c/p cars in its third race which happend to be the solo national championship I would say the car is working pretty good ,car makes big hp hooking up a 14 inch goodyear the font end is gona get a little lite sure he can increase the rear rolll stiffness but then it might not pull coming out of the turns its all a balancing act you gota give something to get something

[Mulletbird]

I'm gonna be running CPrepared myself, lol. Due to 60-over bore, as well as heads/cam, which makes it a double-whammy. Ahh well, I don't stand a chance of beating Perry anyways, so what's the big deal? lol.

[1QWIKBIRD]

I'm gonna be running CPrepared myself, lol. Due to 60-over bore, as well as heads/cam, which makes it a double-whammy. Ahh well, I don't stand a chance of beating Perry anyways, so what's the big deal? lol.

If you make it out and run in NNJR that'd be cool. That would bring the car count in CP up to like 6 cars/7 drivers which is a nice group to run against head to head. Keeps you on your toes.

[1QWIKBIRD]

YANKIN THE PONY WHEEL!!!!!!!!! heh

See it all the time at the dirt track, looks cool and you gotta be going fast to do it, but the truth is much more like pulling a wheelie on a drag strip launch, it is more appearance than result. Cars turn better when they are using both front tires to steer.

I'd be pretty proud if I could get my car to do that.....and be fast. If you go the www.maierracing.com and check out some of his builds (mostly mustangs) and some of the videos of the cars he been involved with, they are some impressive looking rides. Full on dedicated cars, not hybrid street/CP cars.

http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=maier%2Bracing#

[Mulletbird]

If you make it out and run in NNJR that'd be cool. That would bring the car count in CP up to like 6 cars/7 drivers which is a nice group to run against head to head. Keeps you on your toes.

But I won't be competitive. I used to run in GS with the MX6, and did okay there (3 trophies) plus ran GS in Saginaw Valley and took 2 first places. Not bad for just 2-years. The car is meant to break me into the b2 class for bigger payouts (and money brackets at lapeer, where you get an actual payout). Thus, the bore/stroke, carb conversion, heads/cam with factory suspension that's getting a little worse for wear. I'll finish dead last, but at least have a blast doing it!

EDIT> btw 1qwikbird, are you on Perry's forums? Alot of times, he'll post up new rules, with a cliffnotes, so you get the important parts that'll effect most of us, before it goes up on the SCCA page. Also, there's lots of experts (like perry and mario) on there for pointers and advice and tips and such. Also, I won't be a regular solo2'er, just occasional so practice what I've learned a little, and learn a little about RWD. Plus, it's nice knowing you can handle the car on the edge, incase something should happen on the 1/4 mile that'll require I actually use that vehicular control device known as a steering wheel.

[198esp1]

mario and perry are good guys you can def learn something by listening to them. a couple of sesons ago mario was co driving my car it was alot of fun to compare yourself to one of the fast guys specialy when i would beat him. it will be great if we can get som fast f-body guys besides me and 1qwickbird to make it out locally. there are some silly fast guys that run with auto x inc. but they dont come up north past delaware.

[NJSPEEDER]

CP would be fun, but if I built a dedicated auto-x car I would have to go street Modified. I like racing against the widest variety possible and you can't get much more variety than a class that almost every 4 seater ever built can fit into. With a few notable exceptions, practically every company has built something that can apply.

I always wondered if someone built an SM car to the limits if it could time close to a CP car. Just the seperation of the CP racing tires to the SM DOT tires would be a few tenths, but could you build an SM car to be with in a second or two of a CP car on a 2 minute long national course?

[198esp1]

you might be able to get the times close but it will cost you 3 times as much to build the sm car to rules limit.

engines are a wash both need about 500rwp
weight cp gut car interior completely/ sm buy carbon fiber body panels.
cp tires rear27x14 /sm 315 710 not enough to get the power down have to buy traction control 2,000
cp areo lexan spoiler/sm 2,000 wing 1,000 front splitter
pepole forget you get to compete against everybody just compare times thru the pax,thats what the pro class does. National courses are only 45 to 65 seconds long, pro solo even shorter. what ever you build the key is to get out and have fun. I think nationaly sm is starting to lose some car count at events, just so expensive to build a wining car for that class looking forward to see whatever you build.

[1QWIKBIRD]

CP would be fun, but if I built a dedicated auto-x car I would have to go street Modified. I like racing against the widest variety possible and you can't get much more variety than a class that almost every 4 seater ever built can fit into. With a few notable exceptions, practically every company has built something that can apply.

I always wondered if someone built an SM car to the limits if it could time close to a CP car. Just the seperation of the CP racing tires to the SM DOT tires would be a few tenths, but could you build an SM car to be with in a second or two of a CP car on a 2 minute long national course?

Do you me an F-body at the SM limit? Or something along the lines of what Mark Daddio built? I don't know if the F-body could get light enough to be competative on a national level. Power wouldn't be the issue, controlling it would be.

I posed a question on ffrax and LS1tech looking for pics of a full on CP 4th Gen and some of the discussion mentioned that a well sorted/driven ESP car could trophy in CP, but wouldn't be able to crack into the top 5. No mention of how a 4th gen if prepped would do in SM. I think the AWD cars just have too much advantage in that class. Especially when someone like Mark Daddio shows up in a purpose built machine that is well thought, thoroughly tested and driven by a national level driver. It'd be interesting, I rather take my shot at CP, though...more user friendly.

Someone buy my Firebird so I can buy a roller and go all out and not cut up what is still a pretty nice car......

[198esp1]

just pull the trigger will you :nod: your car is ready just loose the weight.

[NJSPEEDER]

Do you me an F-body at the SM limit? Or something along the lines of what Mark Daddio built? I don't know if the F-body could get light enough to be competative on a national level. Power wouldn't be the issue, controlling it would be.

I posed a question on ffrax and LS1tech looking for pics of a full on CP 4th Gen and some of the discussion mentioned that a well sorted/driven ESP car could trophy in CP, but wouldn't be able to crack into the top 5. No mention of how a 4th gen if prepped would do in SM. I think the AWD cars just have too much advantage in that class. Especially when someone like Mark Daddio shows up in a purpose built machine that is well thought, thoroughly tested and driven by a national level driver. It'd be interesting, I rather take my shot at CP, though...more user friendly.

Someone buy my Firebird so I can buy a roller and go all out and not cut up what is still a pretty nice car......

Mark is an example of what an amazing driver can do. The first full season that Philly Region ran SM, Mark showed up with his old Neon ACR to sort out his new shock package for stock. He entered SM and ran times that would have won the class had he not run it as non-comp. He was racing against some fully sorted out, nationally competitive cars with very good drivers, and he just mad us all look ssssoooooo bad.

Just never talk to Mark about a line or try to get a driving lesson from him. His mind doesn't work like everyone else's. He talks about a foot or a few inches like that is something the average person can distinguish when exiting a slalom into a Chicago box at 50mph. lol

My idea of a fully prepped SM f-body involves a 3rd gen. It is just a lighter starting point with better update/backdate weight reduction options. Drop in an nicely built LS1 backed by a clutch-glide transmission. Keep the 10bolt in the back and through in some 4.33 gears and c-clip eliminators(yes, they are available). Sam Strano proved with one of his IROC's years ago that you can actually fit 315's all the way around on a 3rd gen :)

Of course, that is a big money build that is currently a winning lottery ticket away.

-Tim

[Mulletbird]

Mark is an example of what an amazing driver can do. The first full season that Philly Region ran SM, Mark showed up with his old Neon ACR to sort out his new shock package for stock. He entered SM and ran times that would have won the class had he not run it as non-comp. He was racing against some fully sorted out, nationally competitive cars with very good drivers, and he just mad us all look ssssoooooo bad.

Just never talk to Mark about a line or try to get a driving lesson from him. His mind doesn't work like everyone else's. He talks about a foot or a few inches like that is something the average person can distinguish when exiting a slalom into a Chicago box at 50mph. lol

My idea of a fully prepped SM f-body involves a 3rd gen. It is just a lighter starting point with better update/backdate weight reduction options. Drop in an nicely built LS1 backed by a clutch-glide transmission. Keep the 10bolt in the back and through in some 4.33 gears and c-clip eliminators(yes, they are available). Sam Strano proved with one of his IROC's years ago that you can actually fit 315's all the way around on a 3rd gen :)

Of course, that is a big money build that is currently a winning lottery ticket away.

-Tim

What is non-comp? I might do that ... see if I can run in the stock class where I'd be close on times, just not get any winnings since my car "technically" doesn't qualify even though it would be close in terms of actual time potential. That way, nobody can rightfully bitch about it (after all, my car's in real rough shape) since I am just doing it for fun...

[NJSPEEDER]

non-comp = Non Competitive. Basically he ran with the class, but didn't factory in the official scoring.

-Tim