4th Gen K member

[LTb1ow]

Is it worth it? A new UMI one goes for 400 ish. I would only be doing the K and retaining stock arms for now. If it is worth it, how hard is it?

[NJ Torque]

Whats wrong with the one in yoyur car now?

[LTb1ow]

Its stock.

[deadtrend1]

unless you ran out of things to spend money on, I wait until

A) you pull he motor or something substantial like that or
b) you arevery concerned with weight reduction and need to shed pounds

[LTb1ow]

Kinda ran out of things to spend money, and UMI has a thanksgiving sale....

[deadtrend1]

Kinda ran out of things to spend money....

put it in the bank

[NJ Torque]

1995 Z28 Camaro: LT1 B+B triflow catback, ZR1 rims, KN CAI, 58mm BBK TB, brand new genuine Opti.

Doesnt look like you ran out of things to spend money on...

[ar0ck]

It allows you to actually change your spark plugs from the bottom. That's about the only major benefit I've noticed so far with my car :lol:

[LTb1ow]

Doesnt look like you ran out of things to spend money on...


Seeing is believing. :wink: And I can change plugs in less than a 1/2 hr.

[LTb1ow]

It allows you to actually change your spark plugs from the bottom. That's about the only major benefit I've noticed so far with my car :lol:


Do you have any pics of yours?

[black95maro]

Seeing is believing. :wink: And I can change plugs in less than a 1/2 hr.

lol wanna do mine?

[LTb1ow]

Stock manifolds? If so, hellll nooo.

[sweetbmxrider]

get two. i'll take one thanks!

[KirkEvil]

get a real tune instead so that thing can make it down the street

[98tadriver]

Kinda ran out of things to spend money, and UMI has a thanksgiving sale....


save it and buy a LS1 car :mrgreen:

[deadtrend1]

save it and buy a LS1 car :mrgreen:

Thats good advice right there .....

[LTb1ow]

Bah, I like my boat anchor. Opti and everything. I am looking at a BMR K member for 350 delivered, brand new. So its really tempting.

[NJSPEEDER]

The UMI K-members are vastly stiffer than stock as well as being a substantial weight savings. This means a decrease in cowl shake and a massive improvement in handling.

The K-member is a great mod if you have the coin for it. Personally, I would take care of the rear suspension first since that is lacking a lot more than the front design on 3rd/4th gens.

I have a UMI Chassis Mount Torque Arm(Chromoly of course :D) and the difference is night and day from stock on the gas, on teh brakes, and especially playing around from the center off of corners :drive:

-Tim

[LTb1ow]

Torque arms are expensive :(

[deadtrend1]

Torque arms are expensive :(

cheaper then a whole k member/a arm setup and worth more in terms of usefullness

[Featherburner]

Torque arms are expensive :(
Don't think about the money. Buy the torque arm, adjustable rear control arms, adjustable panhard bar, K-member, upper and lower control arms, and coilover QA1s. Live large. :nod:

[Blacdout96]

The UMI K-members are vastly stiffer than stock as well as being a substantial weight savings. This means a decrease in cowl shake and a massive improvement in handling.

The K-member is a great mod if you have the coin for it. Personally, I would take care of the rear suspension first since that is lacking a lot more than the front design on 3rd/4th gens.

I have a UMI Chassis Mount Torque Arm(Chromoly of course :D) and the difference is night and day from stock on the gas, on teh brakes, and especially playing around from the center off of corners :drive:

-Tim

Timmay, shed some more light onto the T/A in your car, whats it set at, and did you get the full length or the cross mount one?

[69BirdX]

if your buying a k member atleast make sure its the one that can fit twin turbos

[WildBillyT]

Do you still have the stock 10 bolt?

[NJSPEEDER]

Timmay, shed some more light onto the T/A in your car, whats it set at, and did you get the full length or the cross mount one?

Mine is the shorter design that goes to the chassis. UMI, chromoly construction, adjustable, pinion angle is 0 to the DS.

Whatever brand you look at, getting it off of the transmission. The last thing you need is the car trying to plant and the tranny mount moving all over the place.

The shorter arm is also supposed to react quicker, can't say I normally drive hard enough to test this, but the physics would seem to support it. If you are a masterful driver and can find the limit of thresh hold braking, you may find some rear wheel chatter, but I don't see it as highly likely that any of us here are braking hard enough or from a high enough speed to get that far ahead of the weight transfer of the car.

I think everyone should make a good torque arm their first chassis upgrade. It makes the biggest difference of any chassis part on any 3rd or 4th gen.

-Tim

[deadtrend1]

.............I think everyone should make a good torque arm their first chassis upgrade. It makes the biggest difference of any chassis part on any 3rd or 4th gen.

-Tim

yeup. I got the spohn LT style one on my LT1 with the DS loop. Little more noise since its hard mounted, and lose a little ground clearance but not much.

[LTb1ow]

Do you still have the stock 10 bolt?

Yes, and I think I will get a TA after the holiday shopping is done as a gift to myself. :lol:

[sweetbmxrider]

see i already got gifts for myself. a panhard bar and subframe connectors and a poly trans mount. then after the holidays ill get more!

[LTb1ow]

Already got those, panhard bar is in the trunk...

[sweetbmxrider]

adjustable with spherical rod ends? oh yeah! wait, it goes in the trunk?

[LTb1ow]

The panhard bar. I bought it used, and took one look at the stock bolts, figured we would break em, and haven't gotten around to getting ARP ones yet...

[qwikz28]

timmy. i heard that the shorter torque arm hurts handling. is there any truth to this?

[Savage_Messiah]

I also heard that with a chassis mount TA, SFC's are nearly a requisite due to extra stress on the body. Anyone know anything bout that?

[LTb1ow]

375 shipped for a chassis mount UMI TA.... good deal?

[qwikz28]

375 shipped for a chassis mount UMI TA.... good deal?

umiperformance.com and one of our sponsors (JSPerformance) is a dealer for them so if you want a deal or need installation, he is the guy to see

[BonzoHansen]

I also heard that with a chassis mount TA, SFC's are nearly a requisite due to extra stress on the body. Anyone know anything bout that?

SFCs are required if you've done nothing else....

[LTb1ow]

umiperformance.com and one of our sponsors (JSPerformance) is a dealer for them so if you want a deal or need installation, he is the guy to see

I will shoot him a PM.

[NJSPEEDER]

timmy. i heard that the shorter torque arm hurts handling. is there any truth to this?

I like the way that the shorter torque arm works. You can be more aggressive with the throttle and it makes the car trail brake at entry much much better. I have heard people talk about getting on throttle understeer with the shorter version, but I have never seen it discussed as something that an adjustment in driving couldn't solve. Basically throttle control solves all :drive:

[198esp1]

the problem with the short arm has a lot to do with brake hop, the short arm increases antisquat that dends to increase brake hop. on the throttle the short arm will cause mid turn push plus the chassis mount holes have a habit to crack the floor pan(not design to handle the forces in braking) I dont think any body on frrax would tell you a short chassis mount t/a was a good ideal.in a autox/rr application only short arm T/a i would use is the unbalanced decoupled and the main benifit of that arm is the decoupling when braking (turns the short arm into a longer than stock arm)

[sweetbmxrider]

you have any more info on the decoupling torque arm? nice car btw