LT1 N/A build

[TronsBird]

i recently bought a 79 t/a with an lt1

looks like it has cast iron heads

it was converted to carb and has a holley street dominator intake and carb and holley electric fuel pump, it also has an electric fan, no heat, no a/c
headers, x pipe and free flow mufflers


im curious to the hp/trq rating



over the summer i wanna get it to have around 375-400whp

heads/cam combo

any suggestions?

i was looking at 220cc heads, but i dont know what a good set up would be


also, a stall converter



im hoping to hit 12's

[LTb1ow]

Personally I would say ditch those heads, try to find a set of aluminum heads, preferably castings 374s. I think. Have those heads sent to Lloyd Elliot or Advanced Induction and have them ported. Get a cam matched to the heads and your goals.
As for stall, I would say 3000 Vig or Yank, but I am not sure how much your car weighs and again, that will be needed for cam choice.

[WildBillyT]

Not trying to be a dick, but are you sure it's an LT1 and not an LT-1?

[MonmouthCtyAntz]

Not trying to be a dick, but are you sure it's an LT1 and not an LT-1?
Yea I was thinking the same thing

[JL8Jeff]

The LT1 used in the Impala SS and Caprice had cast iron heads so it could be one of those engines. I think they were rated at 260 hp.

[Knipps]

The LT1 used in the Impala SS and Caprice had cast iron heads so it could be one of those engines. I think they were rated at 260 hp.

:nod: My '94 Caprice had iron heads

[WildBillyT]

The LT1 used in the Impala SS and Caprice had cast iron heads so it could be one of those engines. I think they were rated at 260 hp.

Yeah, I know that, but it just seems a little odd that somebody would swap in a fuel injected LT1 with an opti just to convert it to a Gen I style setup...

[sweetbmxrider]

yeah where is the distributor?

[Featherburner]

yeah where is the distributor?

it was converted to carb and has a holley street dominator intake and carb and holley electric fuel pump, it also has an electric fan, no heat, no a/c
headers, x pipe and free flow mufflers.I would say its in the conventional place.

[TronsBird]

its from an impala or caprice, it has new style valve covers and its pretty clean

the 220cc's were aluminum

my car is 79 t/a, so it weights between 3700-3800

and the distributor is behind the intake on the right i think

[LTb1ow]

http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html

[TronsBird]

im probly gonna go with the lt1-le1 heads and cam

thanks

[LTb1ow]

Go LE2s, and a slightly larger cam.
And to be fair.
http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProductsLT1.html

[TronsBird]

you have to build the bottom end for LE2 and it $450 more

[LTb1ow]

Nope thats the LE3s your looking at, and I can't argue about the price change, but the LE2s can grow with your car if you decide to punch it out to a 355/383, juice, or forced induction.

[deadtrend1]

Do you get spiffs or rep points for pushing LE products every chance you get?

There are other companies out there Besides LE

[LTb1ow]

I wish, that would be cool.

[LTb1ow]

http://www.trickflow.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400098+115+309117&autoview=sku
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/headsafr-sbclt14.html
http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/lt1cnc.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/heads/chevrolet_lt1_rpm.shtml

[TronsBird]

i was planning on bolting on a pro-charger eventually, so that works

[TronsBird]

i was also looking at a tci streetfighter 700r4, says it'll handle 600hp

[LTb1ow]

I would say look into Yank or Vigilante for torque converters, but that means I must work for them or something and get points for pushing their product.

[TronsBird]

tci has torque converters to match their transmissions

i just have no idea what my ratio is

3.43 or 3.73

[sweetbmxrider]

Do you get spiffs or rep points for pushing LE products every chance you get?

There are other companies out there Besides LE

he is like timmy

though you can't argue with the best.

[LTb1ow]

So do you need a tranny too? Or do you just want the TC to match the tranny company wise?

[TronsBird]

i have a turbo 350, im pretty sure it wont be able to handle the power
and i want to convert to a 700r4 anyway

[LTb1ow]

Why not a 4L60E if you already have the LT1?

[TronsBird]

because i like 700r4's and you dont need a computer to run it

[Tru2Chevy]

A 700R4 is basically just a Turbo350 with an overdrive gear added to it. If a TH350 won't stand up to the power you'll be making, a comparable 700R4 won't either. You can get a mildly built TH350 that will handle your power goals with ease for far less than a comparable 700R4.

- Justin

[TronsBird]

im fully aware of that

i have a stock turbo350

i want 4 gears, and while im at it, i might as well get a built trans that can handle more power

[WildBillyT]

im fully aware of that

i have a stock turbo350

i want 4 gears, and while im at it, i might as well get a built trans that can handle more power

A 700-R4 can hold some good power if it's built up right. But if you want something that's bulletproof for high HP numbers you should look elsewhere. A 200-4R can be a good choice. Have you looked into those?

[JSPERFORMANCE]

tci has torque converters to match their transmissions

i just have no idea what my ratio is

3.43 or 3.73


The converter needs to be matched to the engine combo, besides the application there is nothing the converter has to be matched to the trans with.

[Featherburner]

Why not a 4L60E if you already have the LT1?Why would you add a 4L60E behind a carbed LT1?

[WildBillyT]

Why would you add a 4L60E behind a carbed LT1?

LOL

[TronsBird]

ive never heard anyhting good about a 200r4, ever

tci stall's are 500 bucks, anything cheaper thats a 3,000?

[WildBillyT]

ive never heard anyhting good about a 200r4, ever

tci stall's are 500 bucks, anything cheaper thats a 3,000?

Research a little more. 200-4Rs can be built up a lot... just ask a Grand National guy.

[Tru2Chevy]

ive never heard anyhting good about a 200r4, ever

tci stall's are 500 bucks, anything cheaper thats a 3,000?

Sounds like you haven't been talking to the right people....the 200R4 is a good transmission that can be built up very strong.

TCI converters are on the cheap side....a good unit with a higher efficiency will usually run you a few hundred more.

- Justin

[TronsBird]

yeah, thats the only good thing

when they're "grandnationalized"

the tci is 2k, and can handle 600hp

[JSPERFORMANCE]

Torque converters are more than just where they stall. Efficency, durability, quality of parts, and construction should all be taken into consideration... It looks to me like you are just using price and the rating the company gives as your factors. The company can rate its products for 1000 hp the fact is that if it isnt built right and out of the right materials than it WILL fail. Their warranty is useless because custom and performance equipment cannot be warrantied by just their nature of use. Jeeze, I think boss hog has some of thier junk for under $400 that stalls around 3000 that dosent mean you would find one in any of my cars. Even better, I can probably get the hacks at Pat's to cut a stocker apart and lay the fins down for $250!

[TronsBird]

as far as i know tci is one of the best to buy transmissions and components from

im not one of those tools who only cares about price, i just want the best for the cheapest cause im on a budget



i dont wanna sound like a noob, but they've been put in alot of hot rod project cars and have never had anything bad said about them

[unstable bob gable]

The 200-4R is smaller and lighter than a 700-R, and the first gear ratio is 2.74, vs. 3.06 in the 700. Unless yer looking to pull stumps with yer car, the 200 1st gear is way more manageable. I have 200-4Rs in both my AMX and Turbo T, and unless some low tech, high falutin' 6 or 8 speed auto comes down the pike, I will probably always use 200-4Rs. In fact the only down side I've found is that the 200-4R tailshaft is part of the body casting. Since this makes it non-removable, a Gear Vendor O/D unit cannot be added.

And for the record concerning TCI: I had one of their convertors and one of their TH 400 trannies go *POOF* on me after very few miles behind a mild 455 Olds. After that I swore I would NEVER use a tranny from anyone that I couldn't visit in person if there was a problem.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

I dont know where you are getting your information but you may want to look elsewhere..

Like your "Grandnationalized" comment. there are very few differences between a stock turbo buick 2004r and say a cadillac 2004r. The buick may have an extra clutch plate or two but most of the differences are in the valve body. Actually the late 2004r units use the same converter as a 700r4.

The thing about Hot Rod project cars is they will install products from whatever company that will pay the most or give the most free stuff for the car they are building, that dosent make them better.

[TronsBird]

truth truth

idk, they seem well built

how much would a 200-4r that can handle 500hp run me?

and, differentials

i have a 10 bolt, some say they can be built, some say they're garbage

[TronsBird]

btw, props on owning an AMX

[JSPERFORMANCE]

around $900 depending on the condition of the core

depends on which 10 bolt.. if it is an 8.5" it will handle some power, if it is a 7.5" RUN! the pin may already have been pulled and it may explode at any minute!!!

[TronsBird]

yeah, thats what i read, the 8.5 is the next best thing to an 8.75 on a 12 bolt

and , if anyone can help me locate a trans sometime this summer, id greatly appreciate it lol

[unstable bob gable]

btw, props on owning an AMX

Thanks. It's getting enough GM parts that pretty soon it's gonna be like a Camero. lol

Josh is the go to guy for H.P, work, so he'd be able to point you in the right direction as to pricing or a trans shop. My tranny guy passed away last year, so I'll be hitting Josh up for info as well when I need a new tranny guy.

Your 8.5 10 bolt rear is a pretty damn good rear, and should be able to take what you are looking for it to do. I had the same rear in my 79 Trans Am, and that had the 455 Olds I mentioned earlier. That engine had tons of low end torque, and I was known to beat on it a bit, and it never gave me any probs. The only change I made was to install some 3.73s in place of the stock 2.41s. I even know a couple of AMC guys who put T/A 8.5s in their Javelins, because they are better rears than the AMC Dana 20s, and you could get 'em with disc brakes from the factory.

[TronsBird]

yup, im restoring this one, i have 4 15x7 snowflakes, 2 15x10 chevy rallyes with fat hoosier quick times on them., idk how good those tires are though

my drivers sive fender is totaled. everything else is suprising sound for a 30 year old car

my interior needs straightening out but its all there

i wanna go pontiac power, but i cant afford it at this point in my life

my dad recently got a 79 t-top t/a with a 4.9 given to him, he says hes dropping a 455 in it

[unstable bob gable]

yup, im restoring this one, i have 4 15x7 snowflakes, 2 15x10 chevy rallyes with fat hoosier quick times on them., idk how good those tires are though

my drivers sive fender is totaled. everything else is suprising sound for a 30 year old car

my interior needs straightening out but its all there

i wanna go pontiac power, but i cant afford it at this point in my life

my dad recently got a 79 t-top t/a with a 4.9 given to him, he says hes dropping a 455 in it

They are awesome cars with very good parts coverage. I miss the hell outa mine sometimes. The 455 Olds with the stock 2.41 gears made for a helluva top ender. lol You can always put a Poncho in it later on, but you will probably be more than happy w/ the LT1. I like LT1s. In fact, guess what my AMX is gonna get down the road? :mrgreen:

And here's something that might interest you: I have a set of 2 inch dropped spindles, cross drilled rotors, rebuilt calipers, new Hawk brake pads, and new bearings and seals that were left over from my T/A. I made the mistake of swapping this set up onto my Turbo T, because I read it would work on a G body. Well, I'm an azzhat for listening to what I read on the WWW, because the set up basically makes the car undrivable and unalignable. So, I'm going back to the G body brakes and spindles and I'm going to be selling the F body set up. So, if you're looking for dropped spindles and upgraded brakes gimme a holla and we'll see what we can do.

[TronsBird]

mine is all good to go and there, i might need new lines, but thatd be about it for brakes

ill let my dad know, hes getting it for free so hes all pumped up on all the money he'll be able to put into mods

[unstable bob gable]

mine is all good to go and there, i might need new lines, but thatd be about it for brakes

ill let my dad know, hes getting it for free so hes all pumped up on all the money he'll be able to put into mods

Yeah, just give me a holla if interested. The set up is still on the Turbo T, so it isn't going anywhere for a while. I just got the rest of the parts in that I need to convert back to the G body brakes, so little by little I'll be taking the F body stuff off.

[Pampered-Z]

You need to think out what you want before we can make any real suggestions on your engine build and other parts. Heads/Cam package can get up into the low 400HP range and still be reliable and have good street manners ( if that matters?), but once you get near the 500HP mark you really need to start doing upgrades to the short block.

If you're planning N/A, you might get by with stock pistons, but you also said you want to use a power adder, so that will require upgrading the pistons (unless you are only planning 5-6lbs of boost.). You would also want to select your cam based on N/A or boosted which can affect the engine's characteristics and would effect your stall selection.

Since the engine is out of an Imp it's a 95+ motor, has the powder rods, not the pink rods, you want to swap them out. or at the least go all ARP bolts. Likewise to get to the 500HP mark you are going to need to spin the engine fairly high (typically 6500+ RPMs) LT1s use a single roller timing chain, you want to look at either going with a GM extreme duty, or switching to a aftermarket double roller, which will also require you to convert to a electric water pump. Also at those RPMs you should also be looking at upgrading to your oiling system.

Once you have that planned out then you can look at the converter, what stall and how it's going to engage.

[TronsBird]

im not gonna use a power adder for another year, i cant afford it right now

could i get buy on the stock pistons and timing chain for now?

[LTb1ow]

Stock pistons yea. Stock timing set would be cheap insurance IMO. Your already in there, replace it.

[TronsBird]

truth truth

[LTb1ow]

Because I will get like 30 bajillion brownie points for this....
Check these out
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22900

[TronsBird]

yeah, at the moment, i have 230 bucks to my name, and ebays taking 60 of it

and i dont have the money to get a 383