350 pistons

[LTb1ow]

This may be a dumb question, but I cannot seem to find a set of forged 350 4.000 bore pistons. They all seem to be for .30 over applications. Am I just not looking hard enough?

[camaroAL]

u can order them std. bore , they just sometimes dont list em'

[LTb1ow]

I have been looking almost everywhere, I guess I need to call places?

[camaroAL]

yes sir. just call, they got em... which ones u looking at? sealed power makes a good cheap set.

[LTb1ow]

I was looking at JE/Mahle

[camaroAL]

ohhh, u want top of the line do u...lol

JE non coated ftw!!!!

[camaroAL]

je is a great choice, but getting back to ur build, ur using a stock crank and block. which will only support so much power before u crack the crank or block. that being said, u can save yourself a bit of cash and still be able to reach ur goals, such as sealed power forged pistons and an sir style rod. if u were going to use a good non cast crank, id say je pistons and a set of killer rods, if the block sonics well enough!!! if u are looking for 500-550hp u dont need such high dollar components. just my suggestions not orders...lol..

[LTb1ow]

Perhaps, I am just not wanting to have to clean up the track when the engine pukes the crappy pistons.
These are the rods I am looking at,
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=1137&cat=7951764&page=1

[camaroAL]

with Hypereutectic Pistons u can only spray around 75hp worth of spray.
for those that may have wanted to know...lol

[LTb1ow]

with Hypereutectic Pistons u can only spray around 75hp worth of spray.

Nah, people spray more than that, I have seen up to 150 shots on stock setups. Now how long do they last, I doubt very long, but its doable.

[camaroAL]

Perhaps, I am just not wanting to have to clean up the track when the engine pukes the crappy pistons.
These are the rods I am looking at,
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=1137&cat=7951764&page=1

those will work great, or u can go eagle also, they are cast in the same place

[camaroAL]

Nah, people spray more than that, I have seen up to 150 shots on stock setups. Now how long do they last, I doubt very long, but its doable.

75hp is the safe # , if u want longevity
its bad enough when u use the right components for nos and ur tune is off u can hurt ur engine. but to go more than 75 on a hyper and have a bad tune, its lights out!!!!!!!

[LTb1ow]

Yea, I am just looking for something mid road that will take a hopeful 150 shot and maybe some boost later on.

[camaroAL]

small ? how come u dont optimize ur build and just make around 500 or so all motor? its less strain on everything and more impressive.. and this is coming from someone addicted to nos, believe me!!!

[LTb1ow]

small ? how come u dont optimize ur build and just make around 500 or so all motor? its less strain on everything and more impressive.. and this is coming from someone addicted to nos, believe me!!!

500 or some all motor would be great but that comes with a much bigger price tag and truthfully, I just can't afford that.

[camaroAL]

500 or some all motor would be great but that comes with a much bigger price tag and truthfully, I just can't afford that.

what power level did u want to achieve?

[LTb1ow]

Well I have no real defined power goal, I want to make a tough LT1 that can take the 150 shot no problem. And last. Thats the goal.

[camaroAL]

are u going custom cam or shelf?

[LTb1ow]

Its a custom now, but I may swap it out, not sure yet. Its a sucky cam for boost/juice with like 13 degrees of overlap so maybe get something with a bit less overlap and more optimized for juice.

[camaroAL]

with the right cam and finesse of ur heads u could make some really good power. and cost wouldnt be that intense.

[LTb1ow]

Well as of now the heads and cam are matched for the max power they can make, redlining at about 6200.

[camaroAL]

Well as of now the heads and cam are matched for the max power they can make, redlining at about 6200.

matched for max power? have the heads been put on the bench and flowed? any bowl work? porting? larger valves? comp valve job?

how are they maxed? i bet there is plenty left to do to the heads and i bet ur cam and spring setup can aso be greatly improved. im not being a smart ass btw, im not that good at comp conversation so bear wit me

[LTb1ow]

Ported by Lloyd Elliot and cam by Bret Bauer. Springs are PACs.

[camaroAL]

do they still use stock valve sizes? what does this make as of now at the wheels?

[LTb1ow]

Manley 2.00/1.56 6000 series valves
PAC 1218 bee hive springs (145 lbs seat and 340 lbs open)
Steel retainers and locks
205 cc intake port
flow about 275/190 CFM

[camaroAL]

Manley 2.00/1.56 6000 series valves
PAC 1218 bee hive springs (145 lbs seat and 340 lbs open)
Steel retainers and locks
205 cc intake port
flow about 275/190 CFM

from the #'s u supplied, if equipped with the correct cam, injectors, etc. etc... u have heads to make around 500hp N/A

[LTb1ow]

Yea, spinning it to what?

[camaroAL]

Yea, spinning it to what?

around 6700-6900

[LTb1ow]

Exxxaaacccttllyyy.


Street car, repeat, its a street car....

Would much rather have a torquey car than a car that makes a ton of power at 6700+ , its not an LS1 ;)


But back to pistons....

[LTb1ow]

Its NOT a drag car, so correct.

a) Build it so I can spray it safely
b) Build it so I can feel safe revving it to max 6500

[camaroAL]

Exxxaaacccttllyyy.


Street car, repeat, its a street car....

Would much rather have a torquey car than a car that makes a ton of power at 6700+ , its not an LS1 ;)


But back to pistons....

just cause peak power would be in the upper rpm's doesnt mean low end torque and street ability would be sacrificed at all! im just stating that it will make power to around 67-6900prms

[LTb1ow]

just cause peak power would be in the upper rpm's doesnt mean low end torque and street ability would be sacrificed at all! im just stating that it will make power to around 67-6900prms

Ok well, if the cam could make a nice torque curve right up to that high, I guess I could see that being a possibility.

[camaroAL]

Ok well, if the cam could make a nice torque curve right up to that high, I guess I could see that being a possibility.

u seem to have quite a good cylinder head ,and a perfectly matched cam and spring set will broaden up ur torque curve and hp which will give u an excellent range of power.

[LTb1ow]

Well its a pretty solid valvetrain now, next step would be shaft mount, and I don't see that being practical.

My other concern with having to spin it that high is twofold, one, the stock computer/opti and two, hydraulic cam.

[camaroAL]

ive done one radical lt1 and i used an upgraded comp, and stock lifters, msd opti

[camaroAL]

as for the original post, either piston u mentioned will be a fine choice, preferably the JE

[LTb1ow]

Well as you pointed out that is prob one of the best piston choices, is there a more budget minded piston you would recommend?

[camaroAL]

i do like the sealed power ,power forged pistons (coated) cheap and relaible

[LTb1ow]

Able to spray em?

[camaroAL]

yes sir!

[LTb1ow]

Hmm, are you able to get a deal on em?

[camaroAL]

Hmm, are you able to get a deal on em?

ill find out asap. i should but dont want to promise.

[LTb1ow]

Understood.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

I have sprayed STOCK engines with 150 for years. So your goal is not clear. A goal would be a certain et or hp number. Getting there using nitrous is one of the stipulations. I can build an engine that will make the car go 12.0 on motor and 10.50 on a 150 shot or another that would go 11.80 on motor and 9.90 on the 150 huff. Your ultimate budget and personal requirements are what will be the most important factors in how the engine gets built..

[LTb1ow]

A goal can't be a nice, strong, dependable street motor?

[JSPERFORMANCE]

Nice and strong are two words that are opinion based. Define nice and strong.. The stock engine runs strong and looks nice.. See what I mean?

You need some kind of objective to properly choose the parts and build the engine.. Aluminum rods are nice and they hold up to 1000+hp but they may not be the right choice for your budget or how the engine would be used.. JE forged lightweight pistons are nice, expensive, and hold up to serious power. But if you are only making 4-450 then you wasted your money when a TRW could have done the job at half the cost..

The combo has to be matched to properly make power and stay within a budget. Like I told you before you need guidelines first of which is budget, second is type of use, and third is desired power level. If you have the first two set in stone that is all I would need to build the engine. I would give you the most power I can for xxx amount in a street motor that sees xxx kind of duty.. Get it?

[LTb1ow]

I see your point, I am just not really up to speed on what piston/rod combo will be ok for regular 150 shots.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

The amount of nitrous is not as important as the total amount of power the engine will be making.. Once a general idea of power and the use of the engine have been made then the rotating assembly can be chosen.. As far as the standard bore idea goes: what makes you sure the block will not need to be bored? Have you had the cylinder walls checked already?. There is a procedure to all of this and the block should be considered the "foundation" it must be solid before you can build the house on it.

[LTb1ow]

Although I am not 100% sure, I am almost positive the bores will be ok. The engine does not smoke and does not sip oil or antifreeze what so ever. When the heads were off last summer, the cross hatching was still very visible and the bores looked good. Granted a test could show they are way off but from what I saw combined with the engine having 70k on it, I think it should pass.

I realize that I may be approaching this kind of backwards, but I am hoping to not have any machine needed and worst case, it does not to be .030 over, the same logic applies to picking rods/pistons.

As for power levels, the combo I have makes 400 rwhp on M6 cars so between 400~420 crank. Being as that is a very hopeful number I am using it as the max number too in this. So figuring that at max the engine may see 450 hp NA, and tack on a 150 shot, that is my power level. Sorry if this is making no sense, I am just trying to do some research and get some numbers before the summer.

[JL8Jeff]

Are you still worried about passing inspection with the engine setup you're researching?

[LTb1ow]

No.

I am mainly concerned with engine longevity and reliability.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

Just to let you know, I have NEVER seen an engine with over 50k on it that didnt need to be bored.. .030" is the most common overbore so the pistons are a little cheaper than a .010" which dosent clean up everything in most cases.

[LTb1ow]

Just to let you know, I have NEVER seen an engine with over 50k on it that didnt need to be bored.. .030" is the most common overbore so the pistons are a little cheaper than a .010" which dosent clean up everything in most cases.

Thats not what I wanna hear. :-?

Machine work for that adds a lot to the bill.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

Shonomercy you are still out in left field. I can get you straight, all you have to do is provide me with the information I asked you for earlier in the thread..

[LTb1ow]

Shonomercy you are still out in left field. I can get you straight, all you have to do is provide me with the information I asked you for earlier in the thread..

Yea, I know.... its a tough learning curve. I am trying. :wink:

I will re read all your posts and see if I can come up with some info for you.
-Matt

[LTb1ow]

Alright, budget wise, I would like to spend less than a grand for pistons and rods. Machine work I guess whatever a 355 would cost to bore and the works. Its mainly a street warrior with the occasional trip to the track. Power level would be around 400whp without juice, which is roughly what I should be making but just want to freshen things up and strengthen the bottom end.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

snm - I just need a total budget for your build I will tell you what I can do with it. I do not need to know what you want to spend for each part.. When you have an idea of a total budget let me know and I will tell you what I can do for you.. Then, when you are ready, we can get started and you will already know what the plan is going to be.

[LTb1ow]

snm - I just need a total budget for your build I will tell you what I can do with it. I do not need to know what you want to spend for each part.. When you have an idea of a total budget let me know and I will tell you what I can do for you.. Then, when you are ready, we can get started and you will already know what the plan is going to be.

Sounds good, I will give it some thought over the week and get back to you.