LSX swap.

[WayFast84]

In order to get the most enjoyment out of my car I have decided to go with a much milder car. My plan as it sits right now Is a Stock 5.3 liter LM7 with A z06 cam, P&P TB.Stock Ls1 intake,oil pan and manifolds with a catback and a nice tune all matched up to my th350 with 3500 rpm converter. The suspension will stay the same and will still Be a street/strip car. But will be leaned more to a street/cruiser until I can get a rear, a TR224 cam, ls1swap headers and an ls6 manifold.

What do you guys think? I know it wont be the best, but it sure as hell beats an unreliable car.

[NJ Torque]

Anything can be unreliable.

[Frosty]

Why would you go through all of that trouble and hassle only to drop in a 5.3? That's seriously like going through the trouble of ripping out a LO3 only to drop in a LB9 :rofl:

If you want to do a LSx swap then do a REAL LSx swap.

However it's your car so do whatever you want. Have you read up on the ins and outs of the swap? It can get difficult. Are you doing it yourself? Are you prepared for the big costs? It's a lot more involved than just swapping over a motor...which is why you probably shouldn't even bother with a 5.3, just do a LS1, build it how you want and be done with it.

Just my opinion.

[WildBillyT]

Any transplant can still be unreliable. One bad wiring connection or bad ground and you are stuck on the side of the road.

[LTb1ow]

Why not fix the (bigger) motor in it now?

[WayFast84]

Why would you go through all of that trouble and hassle only to drop in a 5.3? That's seriously like going through the trouble of ripping out a LO3 only to drop in a LB9 :rofl:

If you want to do a LSx swap then do a REAL LSx swap.

However it's your car so do whatever you want. Have you read up on the ins and outs of the swap? It can get difficult. Are you doing it yourself? Are you prepared for the big costs? It's a lot more involved than just swapping over a motor...which is why you probably shouldn't even bother with a 5.3, just do a LS1, build it how you want and be done with it.

Just my opinion.


Do you know that a 5.3 with a z06 cam, ls6 intake and stock manifolds in a an 01 camaro dynoed pretty much identical numbers to an ls1? Do you know you can get a complete low mileage 5.3 for $400?

[LTb1ow]

So the 400 for a 5.3, does that include the wiring harness? New gauges? New motor mounts? New rad? Etc.

Why not just spend the money to fix what you have?

[Jared1970Chevelle]

Do you know that a 5.3 with a z06 cam, ls6 intake and stock manifolds in a an 01 camaro dynoed pretty much identical numbers to an ls1? Do you know you can get a complete low mileage 5.3 for $400?


i know a ls1 motor with 5.3 truck heads on it....ls6...custom cam... in a heavy 4th gen trans am that goes pretty good....

i know a guy with a 5.3 with a turbo on it that goes pretty good.....

as far as a 5.3 with a "z06" cam and intake... your looking at 250-75 wheel horse ifff the cam is rite lol

not to mention its a iron block...you need wire harness, computer... computer tune to get full results... and a lot more factors... i would just put a shot on the stock motor and your at the same power numbers

[BonzoHansen]

Not all 5.3s are iron blocks (albeit I think the LM7 is)


Keep the personal comments to yourself.

[91DropTop]

In order to get the most enjoyment out of my car I have decided to go with a much milder car. My plan as it sits right now Is a Stock 5.3 liter LM7 with A z06 cam, P&P TB.Stock Ls1 intake,oil pan and manifolds with a catback and a nice tune all matched up to my th350 with 3500 rpm converter. The suspension will stay the same and will still Be a street/strip car. But will be leaned more to a street/cruiser until I can get a rear, a TR224 cam, ls1swap headers and an ls6 manifold.

What do you guys think? I know it wont be the best, but it sure as hell beats an unreliable car.

For all the money you have spent you could get a low milage turn key ls1 with a t56 and be way ahead of where you are now

[baddest434]

Keep the personal comments to yourself.

:lol: thats what i'm doing :lol:

[98tadriver]

Do you know that a 5.3 with a z06 cam, ls6 intake and stock manifolds in a an 01 camaro dynoed pretty much identical numbers to an ls1? Do you know you can get a complete low mileage 5.3 for $400?

im pretty sure you misread something. guys put 5.3 heads on their LS1s. and theres no way a 5.3 is going to put down the same numbers as a LS1 lol

[Frosty]

Do you know that a 5.3 with a z06 cam, ls6 intake and stock manifolds in a an 01 camaro dynoed pretty much identical numbers to an ls1? Do you know you can get a complete low mileage 5.3 for $400?

To each their own, it's your car...if you're going to do it do it right...

So what if in a year from now you want more power? Stock LS1 power is only going to you content for so long...the LS1 is going to go a lot further than a 5.3 will.

I'm not trying to bash you or rip on you, I'm sincerely trying to help.

[NJSPEEDER]

For how cheap you can pick up a complete LS1 or LS2 with an auto, I would save the time and effort of picking up the cheap motor, hunting down the correct harness, buying and swapping the cam and all those little parts, buying an intake, and buying a throttle body. You will end up spending almost the same amount of money and twice as much time just to get to the same point.

[BonzoHansen]

im pretty sure you misread something. guys put 5.3 heads on their LS1s. and theres no way a 5.3 is going to put down the same numbers as a LS1 lol

Depends on the comparison. Stock LS1 vs. Modded 5.3, I have heard 5.3s doing 400 crank hp.

I think he is looking at cost per HP here, and the 5.3 can be a low$$ way to do a retrofit. But you have to consider all the extra costs - fuel system, exhaust, etc. I'm not sure he has considered that only because he has not addressed that here. It's cheaper to do this for a 3rd gen than an old car because the 4th gen fuel tank and such can be used.

[LTb1ow]

Well the LSX engines are non return fuel lines right? You could just run a sumped tank and pump and delete the EVAP.

[Frosty]

For how cheap you can pick up a complete LS1 or LS2 with an auto, I would save the time and effort of picking up the cheap motor, hunting down the correct harness, buying and swapping the cam and all those little parts, buying an intake, and buying a throttle body. You will end up spending almost the same amount of money and twice as much time just to get to the same point.

Tim, stop making sense lol

Well the LSX engines are non return fuel lines right? You could just run a sumped tank and pump and delete the EVAP.

98 had a return line, at least in the Fbodys they did...I would ASSume 97-98 'vettes did too.

[WildBillyT]

Do you know that a 5.3 with a z06 cam, ls6 intake and stock manifolds in a an 01 camaro dynoed pretty much identical numbers to an ls1? Do you know you can get a complete low mileage 5.3 for $400?

What is wrong with your existing motor now?

[BonzoHansen]

Well the LSX engines are non return fuel lines right? You could just run a sumped tank and pump and delete the EVAP.

Why? Just bolt in a 4th gen plastic tank. Plumb it like a 4th gen LS car.

[NJSPEEDER]

Well the LSX engines are non return fuel lines right? You could just run a sumped tank and pump and delete the EVAP.

It is just easier to regulate with a return and since there are already lines in the car it would be easy to just swap in 3rd gen EFI pump, pick up, and sending unit to get the job done. Even if the stock lines are insufficient, they are the perfect guide for running the upgraded lines.

[LTb1ow]

Why? Just bolt in a 4th gen plastic tank. Plumb it like a 4th gen LS car.

Just figured it may b easier and cheaper to reuse the tank in it now.

[Mike]

just give me 28k, and you can have the tbss and my ls1 car....:)

[sweetbmxrider]

good luck

[PolarBear]

98 had a return line, at least in the Fbodys they did...I would ASSume 97-98 'vettes did too.

IF 98 had a return it is the only year on f-body. The 99 and up uses a SHORT return at the tank and is regulated in the tank. And AFAIK all LS1 vettes use a regulator in the fuel filter.

THe LS1 plastic tank is a direct bolt in and is easy to plumb and work with if anyone decides to do an LSx swap

[Frosty]

Yes, 98 was the only year for the Fbody IIRC.

[NJ Torque]

^yup... and only year with steel fuel tank.

[bubba428]

wanna sell that 400?


nvm found it :lol:

dude just plop an LS2 in there. the cost of parts to make the 5.3 like you discribed would be more than to just get a better motor. at least with the LS2 you've got the option down the line to stroke it to a 427 and the LS2s are pretty damn nice to start with. I'm sure others have said this already but I was to lazy to read

[jims69camaro]

fix what you have before you start thinking about exotic motor swaps.

swapping the motor is not going to raise the car's reliability by itself. there are too many variables to say i'm going to drop in a X motor and not have to ever worry about the car. lots of people have been in the situation you're in now and they find out it's much cheaper and easier to fix what you have. besides, it sounds like good money chasing the bad. what will you do with the motor you have now? mothball it?

it sounds like you are looking for an easy way out. swapping a motor in when the motor you have is more than capable of filling your needs seems silly. stop trying to find the easy way out and fix your car. once it's running reliably, then think about swapping motors because then you will most likely have the base of experience to get yourself out of a jam. but if you keep jumping from this idea to the next without ever getting your hands dirty, then you're not really learning anything.

[98tadriver]

Depends on the comparison. Stock LS1 vs. Modded 5.3, I have heard 5.3s doing 400 crank hp.
.

ok, so thats about the same as a bolt on LS1 @ the crank lol. and we all know he would do bolt ons to the 5.3 anyway.

[LTb1ow]

What you should really do is swap in an LT1..... ;)

Same motor mounts as a SBC and much cooler than an LSX....

[7pointoh]

427 LS1 stroker kit using and LS7 block and call it a day.

[WayFast84]

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/873706-5-3-dyno-numbers-300-long-block-cheap-engines-ls-conversion.html

[WildBillyT]

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/873706-5-3-dyno-numbers-300-long-block-cheap-engines-ls-conversion.html

And what do you suppose your 400 puts down? I'd guess around that if not more.

[Tru2Chevy]

And what do you suppose your 400 puts down? I'd guess around that if not more.

From what I know about the 400 it should be putting down about that much HP and definitely more tq than that....

- Justin

[NJSPEEDER]

The Gen1 SBC would definitely put down gobs more torque.

[WayFast84]

I'm fixing this motor for sure. I'm almost positive that means rebuilding the heads.. After I fix it. I'm going for a 12 bolt. THEN going for a real ls1 swap. Thanks for the help on this. I figure Ill need a 12 bolt anyway. And I can enjoy it with out that much down time left.

[WildBillyT]

Didn't you just break a rocker stud?

[LTb1ow]

Why though?

Strong running 400 SBC > some puny ass LSX

[Featherburner]

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/jdhawk93/ThereYouGo2-1.jpg

[WildBillyT]

Why though?

Strong running 400 SBC > some puny ass LSX

It's not even an LSX. It's a GEN III small block.

[Frosty]

Strong running 400 SBC > some puny ass LSX

O RLY? Show me a stock headed, stock cammed 400 in any street car running 11's with just bolt ons, 10's w/cam only. Isn't happening.

[LTb1ow]

And bring on the lsx leg humpers....

[WildBillyT]

O RLY? Show me a stock headed, stock cammed 400 in any street car running 11's with just bolt ons, 10's w/cam only. Isn't happening.

WF's 400 does not have the stock heads or the stock cam.

[WayFast84]

Didn't you just break a rocker stud?

I broke a pushrod and a stud.

Could not machining a valve guide cause a broken pushrod?

[WildBillyT]

I broke a pushrod and a stud.

Could not machining a valve guide cause a broken pushrod?

You snapped the pushrod or bent it?

[LTb1ow]

Bent PR = PTV oops

[WayFast84]

You snapped the pushrod or bent it?

snapped.

Retainer to guide clearance is the primary Achille's Heel of the Vortec. For valve lifts above .460" they need to be checked for R-G clearance. This varies from head to head. Some find they can get .480" and slightly more valve lift fine. Others will find .460" about the limit. Always check R-G with any performance cam above .460".

That's what I found about them. I have no clue about what it means, what mine is. my lift is .510

[LTb1ow]

The valve spring retainer hitting the valve stem guide?

That sounds weird.

[Frosty]

And bring on the lsx leg humpers....

I'm not a LSx leg-humper but you'd have to work an ancient 400 to even get stock LS1 power.

WF's 400 does not have the stock heads or the stock cam.

I know that, what he said made no sense. A "strong" running 400 would barely put down more power than a simple bolt on "puny" LSx.

[WildBillyT]

I'm not a LSx leg-humper but you'd have to work an ancient 400 to even get stock LS1 power.



I know that, what he said made no sense. A "strong" running 400 would barely put down more power than a simple bolt on "puny" LSx.

A 400 doesn't have to work that hard to do it. Modified, sure. But nothing too wild.

[98tadriver]

I'm not a LSx leg-humper but you'd have to work an ancient 400 to even get stock LS1 power.



I know that, what he said made no sense. A "strong" running 400 would barely put down more power than a simple bolt on "puny" LSx.

:werd: and :werd: again

[jims69camaro]

A 400 doesn't have to work that hard to do it. Modified, sure. But nothing too wild.

agreed. it's also cheaper to do it with a 400. that's the reason i have a 400 on the motor stand and not an LS1. everything else i want to do with the motor works out to be more with the 400, even though it will bolt on to an LS1 as easily. just not as cheaply...

thankfully he's going to fix what he's got. i only hope he doesn't wuss out and take it to a mechanic. he'll learn so much more about what's under his hood if he does it himself.

[PolarBear]

It's not even an LSX. It's a GEN III small block.

Gen III is LS1/LS6 Gen IV is LS3 or what ever LT it gen II

[WildBillyT]

Gen III is LS1/LS6 Gen IV is LS3 or what ever LT it gen II

Yes, I know this link is wikipedia- but I thought that this was correct:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Vortec_engine#Generation_III

[NJSPEEDER]

The LS motor will make as much HP easier and it weighs 150lbs less, the gen1 400 sbc however will make gobs more torque even in stock/close to stock form than the Gen3 motor.

It is all about what you can make work for your application and budget. Neither way to go is really the wrong answer.

[jims69camaro]

...gobs more torque...

you like that phrase, don't you?

for my money and the life expectancy of the car, the 400 fits the bill. would an LS1 fit the bill? sure, but like i said, for more money. if i was expecting to get 20 years out of the car, then i would go with the updated technology. also, if i were thinking like a weight nazi, then the LS1 would win, hands down.

not to throw a wrench in the works, but Dart is selling crate motors now...

[7pointoh]

If your gonna do this LSX swap and work on a budget, I say try to find a used LQ4 or LQ9. Might shell out a little more $$$ but I think there are so much more potential in those that the 5.3. Ideal beginning for a 370 or a 408.

[ta350]

First off you have to put things in perspective. Stock for Stock the LS1 Dominates.

For arguments sake lates say you get the 5.3 L33 or LM4 Aluminum Block. First off your gonna have to tear down the engine no if ans or buts about it. Replace Main Seals, All gaskets, Piston Rings, Check for dead cylinders, compression, etc. Lets say Tear Down will set you back $300 in parts if you do it yourself. Then you have your z06 cam which you can pick up on a forum for $150 shipped. Then your gonna need push rods, valve springs, retainers, etc well say avg price $450 for a whole set for valve train upgrade. Then you have your intake you can get a ls1 intake and throttle body for around $300 on forums. Then you have your manifolds and a cat back for lets say $800

So that puts ya at $2400 in parts including the engine. Not including engine mounts, oil pan, wiring harness, fabrication if need be. etc. Also theres no $$ for labor in there if your having a shop do it.