Time for the Camaro to shed some weight...

[NJ346]

well after watching all of these posts of new personal bests, I have the itch to start tearing into the camaro since it's pretty much a full bolt-on car. It has gone 12.5x's@113 on a best 60' of 1.903. The car needs to shed some weight so I can really launch the car and not worry about destroying the rear.(That threat is always there, but less of a possibility with less weight). A new tick master cylinder is waiting to be installed so I can actually launch the car without the clutch getting stuck to the floor. Anyway, where should I start? The backseats have been out of the car for a while. I plan on removing the sub woofer, rear plastics, and passenger seat. Is there anything else that's "easy" weight to remove? I have never weighed the car so I really don't know how much of a pig it is.

[Tru2Chevy]

For starters, what are you willing to live without?

You can pull the radio / speakers, the entire AC setup, swap to a smaller lightweight battery, pull the carpet out and remove all of the sound deadening from the back of it....

- Justin

[LTb1ow]

Can you run without the catback on>?

[NJ346]

For starters, what are you willing to live without?

You can pull the radio / speakers, the entire AC setup, swap to a smaller lightweight battery, pull the carpet out and remove all of the sound deadening from the back of it....

- Justin
Not looking to go that serious. I think I'll be looking for a lighter battery. I really don't want to take the carpet out. I'm just looking for what easy weight there is left to pull out.
Can you run without the catback on>?

Exactly what I was looking for. I run a cut-out at the track anyway so taking the muffler off is a good start.

[Mike]

he meant pull the sound deadening off the back of the carpet, and putting it back in.

if you take the muffler off you wont be able to run on "muffled" nights

[NJ346]

he meant pull the sound deadening off the back of the carpet, and putting it back in.

if you take the muffler off you wont be able to run on "muffled" nights

I only plan on running at Atco, and with thier tech, I think I'd get by. With the cut-out open, my car isn't that loud. They could just think I'm running true duals dumped before the axle. It'd be a chance, but I'd be willing to try it once.

[sweetbmxrider]

i pulled off my sound deadening on the carpet. there are some good pieces on the body as well. lighter wheels and tires are always a plus. headliner and sun visors. door panels come off quick.

[Tru2Chevy]

Yes, pull the carpet, remove the sound deadening, and replace the carpet. Vacuum and search for loose change while you are at it!

- Justin

[NJ346]

Yes, pull the carpet, remove the sound deadening, and replace the carpet. Vacuum and search for loose change while you are at it!

- Justin

I'll have to look into that. I know there's a link somewhere on LS1tech that has a list of stuff to remove and their weights.

[WayFast84]

Remove the washer fluid an bottle.Its around 7 pounds in a thirdgen. I used to have a list of stuff I could remove with out being a pain in the ass but I lost it.

The sound deadining, washer fluid, and passenger seat will lighten it up some.

Do you run with the swaybar hooked up?

[Mike]

Remove the washer fluid an bottle.Its around 7 pounds in a thirdgen. I used to have a list of stuff I could remove with out being a pain in the ass but I lost it.

The sound deadining, washer fluid, and passenger seat will lighten it up some.

Do you run with the swaybar hooked up?



the expert has spoken

[NJ Torque]

What does it weight? Mine is 3610.. with a full tank and me in it

[Mike]

mine is in the 35 range with some weight removed and me in it........

my fat ass truck is 5448 :)

[DevilDougWS6]

i weighed in at 3490 with me in, no spare tire/jack, and a quarter tank of gas.

i removed:
all ac components (compressor, condensor, accumulator, lines etc)
rear seats
washer bottle
air pump

all together weighed close to 70 lbs so thats 3420 give or take.

remove your front sway bar and if you have one your strut tower brace.

there really is not a whole lot that you can quickly remove to drop weight. but you can remove the entire interior in about a half hour or so before you go to the track and just leave in the driver seat. you dont need the console, carpet, visors (headliner doesnt weigh **** and is a pita to remove) passenger seat, rear seats, and plastic panels.

[98tadriver]

Not looking to go that serious.

roughly translated- "I wanna go faster but i dont want to do much work to get there."

its really not that bad to drop the AC, front sway bar, interior, spare tire/jack, and other things of that nature.

seat time will ultimately drop tenths off of your ET. what do u shift at and how fast are you shifting? i see youve cut a 1.90 on dr's ive gone 1.8s on street tires. so u know theres left on the table

i dont run AC until it starts getting hot and i dont go for PBs anymore

and just so you know, a lighter car doesnt mean your rear will last longer :lol:

your rear will break whenever it wants to breaks

[NJ346]

roughly translated- "I wanna go faster but i dont want to do much work to get there."

its really not that bad to drop the AC, front sway bar, interior, spare tire/jack, and other things of that nature.

seat time will ultimately drop tenths off of your ET. what do u shift at and how fast are you shifting? i see youve cut a 1.90 on dr's ive gone 1.8s on street tires. so u know theres left on the table

i dont run AC until it starts getting hot and i dont go for PBs anymore

and just so you know, a lighter car doesnt mean your rear will last longer :lol:

your rear will break whenever it wants to breaks

I probably will drop the Ac compressor then. My AC doesn't work that good anyway, and that's why GM put t-tops in these cars.

So far what I plan to take off:
Front Sway bar
Ac components
Passenger seats
Sound deadening
Muffler
Possibly console-Ron how much does this weigh?

Things removed so far:
Air pump
EGR
Back Seat
Spare Tire and jack

[sweetbmxrider]

door panels and speakers? plastics? do the seat belts too with the seats, they have some good weight. remove all unnecessary crap you have in the car like papers and change. pretty much keep you license, reg, and ins card :D

[racerz]

remove the door panels ans use a cutting wheel and remove the side impact bars in the doors savings of about 20 pounds per side. Also grind off any undercoating on the car and paint the underside.

[DevilDougWS6]

you could also remove the bumper support ****, and door bars like said above...but if you get into a wreck, you are ****ed.

[NJ346]

Not looking to weaken the doors...I'd like to live if I get t-boned. I might take the bumper supports out just for a weekend trip to the track. I'd really like them to stay since I hit a deer in the fall on the way to Atco and that did enough damage with the bumper support in.

[KirkEvil]

There are nice big floating chunks of sound deadoning in the rear sail panels. Not sure if you got rid of the seat belts with the rear seats. You can take the power motor assembly out of the bottom of the drivers seat.

[98tadriver]

I probably will drop the Ac compressor then. My AC doesn't work that good anyway, and that's why GM put t-tops in these cars.

So far what I plan to take off:
Front Sway bar
Ac components
Passenger seats
Sound deadening
Muffler
Possibly console-Ron how much does this weigh?

Things removed so far:
Air pump
EGR
Back Seat
Spare Tire and jack


lol thats the spirit!

remove the swaybar and brackets first, youll be able to remove your AC compressor easier. also drop the bracket that holds it to the motor, and the evaporator (tin can thing) and condenser.

sway bar and ac- 50lbs


console weighs 10lbs, maybe more if u have change or stuff in it
if you go thru the trouble of removing the sound deadening, id just leave the carpet out for raceday, then remove it later. i believe the carpet is roughly 40lbs

carpet and console -45 or 50lbs

so right theres a tenth of a second lol

door panels are 18lbs each -36lbs
pass seat without lumbar support- 34-34lbs
sail panels, other trip and panels in the back with speakers and that lil t-top cover thingy -25lbs (cant remember off hand) so theres another tenth lol

that rubber thing under the carpet by the pedals and the driverside under dash piece is like 10lbs together.

hate airbags? i think thats another 20lbs, youll have to check LS1tech in the dragracing tech section. they stickied it

less fuel. 1 gallon is 7lbs if i remember right.

i wouldnt remove the doorbars until u have a 6or 8 point rollbar in there.

borrow a pair of skinnies. that will drop 50lbs and less rolling resistance. skinnies alone will drop at least a tenth

i removed the bumper supports. that was -40lbs


camaro noses might sag a lil though. trans am noses do not. and youll have to fasten a piece of sheetmetal to the rear bumper to the car underneath to stiffen it up.

it all adds up my friend.

then theres some wallet mods like the tubular kmember and A arms, QA1s
lightweight fiberglass hood,
wheels and tires

the list goes on and on and on

[Little G]

Here are some of the things I did in no particular order. I'm sure there are more but it was a long time ago.

!AC
!front sway bar
!seats
!seat belts (not the driver's)
!sound deadening underneath carpet
!sound system
!airbags
!stereo and airbag and other miscellaneous wires
!heat shielding
!one hood strut
!various unneeded bracketry (seats, childseats, seatbelt mounts, etc.)

also converted to hood pin setup and swissed the under hood bracing, lighter k-member and a-arms, lighter wheels, lighter driveshaft, run on skinnies, lighter torque arm, lighter control arms.

Did some personal weight reduction (I was down to about 135 at one point). I usually made a concerted effort not to eat much on race day.

Had the car down to about 3100 with jockey.

g

[NJ346]

^^^nice. I'm 17 and am pretty small(5'5) so the driver weight is part of my weight reductions :D. I'm only 135. I'd be happy to get the car to 3450 with me in it, on skinnies. Nothing major, just looking to make sure I can get to my goal of 12.2@115 by the end of the season.

[98tadriver]

3450 raceweight, that should be no problem. a good set of wheels/tires will drop almost 100lbs depending on what wheels u have now. i remember back when i used to be 160lbs, my car fullweight with half tank of gas was 3660. now, even with me being a lil over 200, my car weighs in around 3330lb raceweight. im looking to get down to 3200lb raceweight toward the end of this year

[KirkEvil]

take your belts off

[LTb1ow]

That would be bad, you need your alternator spinning to power all those coils you guys get.

[KirkEvil]

If your battery is not a POS, and you have an ewp, you should be able to make a run without the belts.

[LTb1ow]

I would not advise it. Seriously.


And of course you would be essentially running a manual rack which would suck with big ass tires...

[98tadriver]

no, actually itd be worse than running a manual rack. ive driven with a manual rack, and then mine. it kinda sucks when your trying to turn. with skinnies its not too bad. when im racing, im going straight. the shortbelt mod is something you could do right at the track. drive to the track with powersteering, swap belts, drive home with powersteering

[98tadriver]

If your battery is not a POS, and you have an ewp, you should be able to make a run without the belts.

make a few passes, then we'll try :lol::lol:

[racerz]

no belt runnin alternator? coils, fuel pump(s), ECM ... think about it.

[NJSPEEDER]

The battery holds plenty of juice to get a pass in without any problems and get back to the lanes.

[NJ346]

I plan on running a shorter belt to buy pass the power steering at the track. Ron what was that part # again? It was 6rib 51" or 52"?

[racerz]

A PASS. race day usually is 6 or more passes to goto finals. safer bet is 2 bypass power steering as u stated...good luck hope u reach the goal u want

[Mike]

A PASS. race day usually is 6 or more passes to goto finals. safer bet is 2 bypass power steering as u stated...good luck hope u reach the goal u want

yeah thats why they make chargers........

[NJSPEEDER]

A PASS. race day usually is 6 or more passes to goto finals. safer bet is 2 bypass power steering as u stated...good luck hope u reach the goal u want

Take belt off, make pass, roll back around to pits, put belt on, drive to lanes, idle car for 5 minutes, pull belt off and make next pass.

I have seen guys do it. With a little bit of practice it turns into a pretty quick procedure.

[98tadriver]

I plan on running a shorter belt to buy pass the power steering at the track. Ron what was that part # again? It was 6rib 51" or 52"?

if you have a 25% underdrive pulley for your crank its a 51" 6rib itll ssay something like 51k6

[98tadriver]

Take belt off, make pass, roll back around to pits, put belt on, drive to lanes, idle car for 5 minutes, pull belt off and make next pass.

I have seen guys do it. With a little bit of practice it turns into a pretty quick procedure.

and get burned while hes in the process lol. or make a switch to cut the altenator out for your pass, then flip it back on when ur done. i definately wouldnt recommend running beltless, especially with no ewp

[NJ346]

if you have a 25% underdrive pulley for your crank its a 51" 6rib itll ssay something like 51k6

hmm...I guess I'll have to try a few belts then since I have the stock pulley. It's probably something like 53-54 inches then.

[98tadriver]

hmm...I guess I'll have to try a few belts then since I have the stock pulley. It's probably something like 53-54 inches then.

there was a thing on LS1tech about it. i believe its 52" for stock pulley. but why not buy an underdrive pulley and drop another tenth!

[NJ346]

there was a thing on LS1tech about it. i believe its 52" for stock pulley. but why not buy an underdrive pulley and drop another tenth!

Well I've heard mixed reviews about the pulley. I've heard some people have gained almost nothing with it.

Anyway- The tick master cylinder is installed. I just need to adjust the peddle and bleed the system....can't wait to do that(sarcasm).

[NJ Torque]

The underdrive did gain about 2 mph for me.

[NJ346]

The underdrive did gain about 2 mph for me.

was that when u had just bolt-ons?

[NJ346]

Update:

Just took the car for a spin with the master and skinnies...all I can say is :nod:. The front end lifts nicely and the trans feels nice and tight(I like it notchy) . I still have to put all of the dash panels back in and get arp studs so I can safely drive on skinnies, but so far so good. My knee is feeling good today...:twisted:..the camaro will be back on the road for good soon.

[sweetbmxrider]

leave the dash apart and get studs. go make fast pass.

[98tadriver]

kewl. what shifter do u have? the trans shouldnt feel notchy with a stock shifter lol

and the UD pulley results will vary based on peoples runs.

lets say they had a crappy run without it, then made a good pass with the ud pulley. theyre gonna gain whatever the pulley gets you, plus whatever they gained from a better 60' just get it. i found a SFI approved one on ebay a while back, 129 bucks i think. works great

[NJ346]

kewl. what shifter do u have? the trans shouldnt feel notchy with a stock shifter lol

and the UD pulley results will vary based on peoples runs.

lets say they had a crappy run without it, then made a good pass with the ud pulley. theyre gonna gain whatever the pulley gets you, plus whatever they gained from a better 60' just get it. i found a SFI approved one on ebay a while back, 129 bucks i think. works great

I have a hurst billet pro. Since I've installed the shifter my trans has always felt notchy. It probably has to do with the miles on the trans...I like the feel of a notchy trans because I like to know that I've "hit" the gear I want. I'll have to check into the underdrive pulley for $129..I don't know if I'd want to go cheap on that part since it is connected to the crankshaft.

[NJ Torque]

was that when u had just bolt-ons?

yes... headers, ls6, lid, catback

[LTb1ow]

I have a hurst billet pro. Since I've installed the shifter my trans has always felt notchy. It probably has to do with the miles on the trans...I like the feel of a notchy trans because I like to know that I've "hit" the gear I want. I'll have to check into the underdrive pulley for $129..I don't know if I'd want to go cheap on that part since it is connected to the crankshaft.

I just hold one pedal, push the other and then release the first pedal... easy as cake. Whats this hitting of gears you speak of?


:rofl:

[98tadriver]

I have a hurst billet pro. Since I've installed the shifter my trans has always felt notchy. It probably has to do with the miles on the trans...I like the feel of a notchy trans because I like to know that I've "hit" the gear I want. I'll have to check into the underdrive pulley for $129..I don't know if I'd want to go cheap on that part since it is connected to the crankshaft.

its not the pulley id be worried about. just be sure to get either an ARP bolt orr a brand new GM crankpulley/damper bolt. you do not re use the old bolt to hold the pulley on. its sfi approved and ron approved

[NJ346]

I just hold one pedal, push the other and then release the first pedal... easy as cake. Whats this hitting of gears you speak of?


:rofl:

Idk, I can easily tell what gear I'm in when I'm shifting because of the notchiness my trans has. Some people don't like it, but I do because I can easily tell whether or not I'm going all the way into gear. It's not that notchy, but it's noticeable enough that I have never missed the 2-3 shift. I have missed the 1-2 and 3-4 shift due to the ****ing hydraulics though.

[NJ346]

its not the pulley id be worried about. just be sure to get either an ARP bolt orr a brand new GM crankpulley/damper bolt. you do not re use the old bolt to hold the pulley on. its sfi approved and ron approved

lol. Don't they have to be strictly balanced and stuff...I guess that's what sfi approved mean? I just ordered the arp studs for the skinnies. Any1 know what's going on April 5th? Atco says it's the rain date for the NHRA event. So what happens if theres no rain? Test&Tune on Sunday? I'd really like to get the car to the track now.

[98tadriver]

lol. Don't they have to be strictly balanced and stuff...I guess that's what sfi approved mean? I just ordered the arp studs for the skinnies. Any1 know what's going on April 5th? Atco says it's the rain date for the NHRA event. So what happens if theres no rain? Test&Tune on Sunday? I'd really like to get the car to the track now.

if i recall correctly, LS1's are internally balanced. and I have had no problems with my UD pulley.

[NJ346]

Ron is this the pulley that your running? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-CHEVY-LS1-Fluid-Crankshaft-SFI-Pulley-Damper-Camaro_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q 3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c29 3Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZi tem330316891461QQitemZ330316891461QQptZMotorsQ5fCa rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[01blackz28]

get rid of the following: front bumper support, rear bumper support, carpet pading, rear seats and belts, you can trim the fender supports if you wish, ditch the ac and all of that, bmr chromoly k memeber along with upper and lower a arms, slicks and skinnies, windshield washer resivior, the list goes on and on.......

[NJ346]

Well the interior is all back together. I just adjusted the clutch peddle to about stock height for now. I think I will adjust it closer to the floor before I go to the track. Anyway, here are some teaser pics:

Old Master cylinder:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u168/NJNETSFAN515/IMAG0097.jpg

Driver Side:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u168/NJNETSFAN515/IMAG0095.jpg

Passenger Side:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u168/NJNETSFAN515/IMAG0096.jpg

I actually really like the the weld draglites on the car. If I make some good money over the summer, I will get the rears too. And since I have to pull the axles to put extended studs in, I might as well up the gears to 3:90's if the 10 bolt is still alive...god $@% money pit!

[98tadriver]

that pulley looks similar to mine but its black instead of silver. sfi approved is good

[sweetbmxrider]

the wheels look good. thanks for specifying passenger and driver side :lol:

[NJ346]

the wheels look good. thanks for specifying passenger and driver side :lol:

Had to specify for those that don't drive.:mrgreen:

[sweetbmxrider]

goddamnit

:lol:

[NJ346]

ok well the wheel studs are in. Now just time to find out when atco is open so I can get some runs in.

[98tadriver]

lets go tuesday night. i have some sticky tires out back. high temp 48 degrees overnight low 36 degrees. lets hope the baro is high and the humidity is low

[NJ346]

lets go tuesday night. i have some sticky tires out back. high temp 48 degrees overnight low 36 degrees. lets hope the baro is high and the humidity is low

I'm thinking tuesday night might work. I still need to take the sway bar off. And whats this about a 99 Z28??

[NJ Torque]

vinnie, i found an awesome deal on underdrive pulleys if your still interested...

[NJ346]

vinnie, i found an awesome deal on underdrive pulleys if your still interested...

lmk what you got. I have someone interested in the nitrous kit so I might have some $$ to spend.

[Zero4488]

still need to take more weight out....

[NJ346]

still need to take more weight out....

Now that the car is back to being a DD, I'm not some ambitious about the wieght. Clutch will be here tomorrow. I'll take it to the track at the current weight and see how it does with the new clutch. If it's where I think it'll be, then I'll take some weight out.

[Zero4488]

Now that the car is back to being a DD, I'm not some ambitious about the wieght. Clutch will be here tomorrow. I'll take it to the track at the current weight and see how it does with the new clutch. If it's where I think it'll be, then I'll take some weight out.

My car is a DD aswell...whats your next excuse?

[NJ346]

My car is a DD aswell...whats your next excuse?

well lets see...I'm on a budget and don't have an emergency fund if I run into problems:wink:...I also don't have a 9 inch.

[Tru2Chevy]

well lets see...I'm on a budget and don't have an emergency fund if I run into problems:wink:...I also don't have a 9 inch.

Less weight = less stress on the rear ;)

- Justin

[NJ346]

Less weight = less stress on the rear ;)

- Justin

very true, but there's only so much I'm willing to take out before the safety of the driver is reduced.(i.e. bumper support, door supports, fender rails, etc.)

[LTb1ow]

Spray the way!

[NJ346]

Spray the way!

:shifty:....nah I don't want to have to rely on a baby bottle...I've got a few plans and will most likely blow the motor before the end of the season:twisted:

Edit: btw, wtf are these?

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u168/NJNETSFAN515/4738_1103861527992_1570365346_30251.jpg?t=12444194 37

[sweetbmxrider]

boxes

[NJ346]

boxes

They just happened to appear in my garage after matt suggested nitrous:-D

[sweetbmxrider]

this is getting better.....

[NJ346]

this is getting better.....

it's not nitrous btw, and I'm on the edge of whether or not I still want to break 11's stock internals, or just keep the car full weight and run 11's. No matter what, changes will be made before july:lol:.

[sweetbmxrider]

yeah i didn't think so, you're not that fun. h/c/i?

[NJ346]

yeah i didn't think so, you're not that fun. h/c/i?

idk yet. I may just do the odd thing and do a head only swap. I don't see the bottom end lasting very long if I aim for 400rwhp/400rwtq. It's just tempting because while the heads are off a cam would be very very very easy to install.

[NJ Torque]

idk yet. I may just do the odd thing and do a head only swap. I don't see the bottom end lasting very long if I aim for 400rwhp/400rwtq. It's just tempting because while the heads are off a cam would be very very very easy to install.


Why do say that? Milage?

My cam only car, albeit @ 118k... sees 6800 regularly and am putting down those numbers just fine

[NJ346]

my motor has 180k on it...im worried about the bearing