Rear Axle Drain Plug?

[Mark42]

I was browsing Summit and found these neat little drain plugs are are intended for automatic transmission pans. They are pretty cheap, and made me think that I have to drain the rear lube after the new R&P break in. Seeing as the differential cover will be off, thought about maybe adding a drain plug.

I know the plug will not be low enough to drain all the oil, and I won't be able to scrape the bottom of the housing clean. But I was also reading where the (numerically) higher the gear ratio, the hotter the gear lube runs. That is a general statement, and other factors affect the temp. But it makes sense to drain and refill every 40K miles or so, especially as it only takes 1.75 qts of lube.

So what do you think? Is it worth the trouble to add a drain plug one time or pull the cover each time and buy a new gasket?

It would also allow the use of a magnetic plug, so you can easily see if there is metal flakes building up.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-g1380_w.jpg

[BonzoHansen]

The cover is not flat, I don't think that will work. I had one on a trans pan and had trouble keeping it from leaking.

most aftermarket covers come with drain plugs.

[LTb1ow]

The cover is not flat, I don't think that will work. I had one on a trans pan and had trouble keeping it from leaking.

most aftermarket covers come with drain plugs.

This, buy a cover and be done.

[Mark42]

The cover is not flat, I don't think that will work. I had one on a trans pan and had trouble keeping it from leaking.

most aftermarket covers come with drain plugs.

Thanks for the suggestion. I checked out covers for our cars, there is not much of a selection out there. The nice ones are $100 +, and the cheap ones are cheap flash chrome plate that I just don't want.

The cover has to come off anyway, I'll give the plug kit a try. A little hammering to create a flat spot and install using 3M 5200. That will prevent any chance of leaks.

I'll let you know how it goes. If it leaks, you can say "I told you so". :mrgreen:

[HardcoreZ28]

You could just TIG it on so you have no leaks.

[sweetbmxrider]

not very smart to hammer the cover. i would want to pull the cover off and make sure there isn't metal sitting on the bottom of the rear .

[deadtrend1]

Some RTV is around 6 bucks. And a new gasket is 10 bucks. How often do you pan on draining and refilling the rear?

[Mark42]

not very smart to hammer the cover but you. i would want to pull the cover off and make sure there isn't metal sitting on the bottom of the reart.

the rear cover has to come off anyway. While its off, using the appropriate tools, I will make a small flat spot the size of the washers, and then drill, install the plug, then install the cover.

[Fast92RS]

You may run into inferencne. The back side of the plug may not clear the rotating assembly. I wouldnt try. Its best to leave it be or buy a aftermarket cover with the fill and drain already built in.

[sweetbmxrider]

You may run into inferencne. The back side of the plug may not clear the rotating assembly. I wouldnt try. Its best to leave it be or buy a aftermarket cover with the fill and drain already built in.

Some RTV is around 6 bucks. And a new gasket is 10 bucks. How often do you pan on draining and refilling the rear?

the rear cover has to come off anyway. While its off, using the appropriate tools, I will make a small flat spot the size of the washers, and then drill, install the plug, then install the cover.

what they said. you are flirting with disaster over something completely unneeded in my eyes.

[Mark42]

You may run into inferencne. The back side of the plug may not clear the rotating assembly. I wouldnt try. Its best to leave it be or buy a aftermarket cover with the fill and drain already built in.

Thats a good point. Will have to check the clearance when the cover is off. A lump of modeling clay applied to the inside of the cover then press the cover in place should indicate the available clearance.

Besides buying a new cover (nice ones are about $150), can you think of another solution? I'd appreciate it.

[BonzoHansen]

It isn't needed. I think there is a reason no one does what you are suggestion. Idea is good in theory, but the pros & cons appear to prove otherwise.

[Mark42]

It isn't needed. I think there is a reason no one does what you are suggestion. Idea is good in theory, but the pros & cons appear to prove otherwise.

Don't leave me hanging here. What are the pros and cons as you see them?

[LTb1ow]

Don't leave me hanging here. What are the pros and cons as you see them?

:facepalm:

Did you not read any of the thread?

Clearance issues, leakage issues, the whole not being needed at all issue...


Stop trying to re invent the wheel here.

[BonzoHansen]

:stupid:

[Mark42]

:facepalm:

Did you not read any of the thread?

Clearance issues, leakage issues, the whole not being needed at all issue...


Stop trying to re invent the wheel here.

You make some good points.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/tfs-8510400_w.jpg

[Mark42]

Its not that its a v6, it's the gear ratio. I was reading about rears and lube and cooling. I was surprised to find out that the 3.73 gears will run much hotter than the 3.08 that the car came with. I change fluids more often than most people. The trans needs a full flush at 40k, and the rear too. They will be changed about every 40-50K after that. So I'll be putting in a drain plug in the trans pan to make that chore easier, and I thought it would make draining the rear easier, quicker and less messy. Plus I don't have to worry about gasket leaks on the rear. With a magnetic drain plug, I will see if there is unacceptable wear occurring.

I often keep my cars to over 200K miles. Changing the trans and rear fluids makes high mileage possible without trans/rear failure.

[WildBillyT]

Its not that its a v6, it's the gear ratio. I was reading about rears and lube and cooling. I was surprised to find out that the 3.73 gears will run much hotter than the 3.08 that the car came with. I change fluids more often than most people. The trans needs a full flush at 40k, and the rear too. They will be changed about every 40-50K after that. So I'll be putting in a drain plug in the trans pan to make that chore easier, and I thought it would make draining the rear easier, quicker and less messy. Plus I don't have to worry about gasket leaks on the rear. With a magnetic drain plug, I will see if there is unacceptable wear occurring.

I often keep my cars to over 200K miles. Changing the trans and rear fluids makes high mileage possible without trans/rear failure.

Those aftermarket covers are more than just a drain plug. They are also finned aluminum which is a heat sink.

[LTb1ow]

Those aftermarket covers are more than just a drain plug. They are also finned aluminum which is a heat sink.

And you can pre load the main bearing caps, which is supposedly good.

[WildBillyT]

And you can pre load the main bearing caps, which is supposedly good.

Yes, ones like the one posted above do that as well. Not all do, though.

[Slow-V6]

Doesnt SLP or someone sell a stock looking cover with a drain plug for 30.00 or so?

I think it is just as easy taking the 10 bolts out to drain the fluid, and for the purpose of break it I think it is better because you get most if not all of the old fluid out.

[WildBillyT]

Doesnt SLP or someone sell a stock looking cover with a drain plug for 30.00 or so?

I think it is just as easy taking the 10 bolts out to drain the fluid, and for the purpose of break it I think it is better because you get most if not all of the old fluid out.

And with the cover off you can inspect the inside of the rear.