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View Full Version : Fog to Driving lights upgrade


Mark42
12-13-2009, 06:05 PM
As I'm sure you all know, the fog lights on the 4th gen Firebirds are rather useless. I decided to replace them with a set of driving lights. Found these driving lights by Sirius. Model NS-2102D (fog version is NS-2102F). They are 4" rounds with 55 watt H3 bulbs. The nice part is they have thick glass lenses, chrome steel reflectors. The housing is plastic. They fit in the same opening as the fogs, (the hole is 4.5") and it won't be hard to make an adapter plate so they bolt in like OEM. I tested them last night after dark by connecting to a fully charged battery I just happened to have in the garage. They are bright, and have a very long reach. Being satisfied with their light output, I'm going to go ahead and start mounting the lights. The plan is to determine if the factory wire is heavy enough gauge to handle 55 watts (the OEM bulb is only 35 watts). If not, then the wire will be replaced from the relay to the lights. They will run off the factory fog light switch on the dash, and go off with the high beams (unless I decide to bypass that feature - requires only a small change to one wire in the under hood relay box).

One reason I wanted a glass lens light is to upgrade the bulb to 80 or 100 watts and not worry about melting the lens or reflector. This option will require that I install heaver gauge wire.

They are sold under the brand name Street Scene, but the box says Sirius with a sticker that reads "Driving light kit for Street Scene valance 4" round". The Street Scene part number is 950-30020. They sell for about $55 a pr. Includes wire harness, with cool looking tear drop switch for dash (that feels cheap). At least the wire is heavy gauge.

Don't know if this applies to the T/A, but it will be a nice upgrade to the coupe.

http://performanceparts4less.estore.catalograck.com/imgVD/STR/950-30020.jpg

Went to remove the factory fogs this evening and start fabricating the light mount when I ran into a problem. Laid down next to the car, removed the two screws that open the access door under the lights, and quickly realized I can't see in there while my hand is in there too. Gonna have to jack up the car a bit, or pull up the ramps to get a little work room.

Tomorrow after work I'll get the ramps out and see if the birds nose clear the ramps or not. If not, I think the floor jack will clear the bottom of the car.

Mark42
12-14-2009, 06:53 AM
Well, things did not go well last night. The access door opened OK to get to the lights, but without having the car jacked or on ramps, I can't get my head underthere to see whats going on.

So..... Will have to go find the ramps in storage and bring them to the garage. Hopefully Monday, and even then, I don't know if the nose of the bird will clear the ramps and let the tires ride up.

Will have to wait and see.

Ya know, its been a few years since I owned a 4th gen. Forgot how everthing is packaged tightly in these cars, and how low they sit. Its all coming back to me now.... :D

maroman88
12-14-2009, 08:58 AM
my ramps work just fine with the TA... they packaging had a pic of a C5 on them lol so i figured theyd work out

The Fixer
12-14-2009, 09:44 AM
The front end may not clear an old-school steel ramp, but should work just fine if you have Rhino ramps. The frontend of my Monte is low and it gets up the Rhino ramps with no trouble.

Mark42
12-14-2009, 11:56 AM
Thanks for the posts about the ramps. Made me think about my old style ramps with an easy 12" lift. I have lots of 2x8 laying about, maybe if I make a small incline with the 2x8 in front of the ramps, the ramps will clear.

What I'm thinking is cut a 2x8 at 3 feet, then another at 2 feet, then one at 1 foot. Stack and nail together to make an incline and lay in front of the ramps so the car gets up 4-1/2" before hitting the ramps. Might work. Will let you know.

I have a floor jack, just don't like getting under it.

sweetbmxrider
12-14-2009, 12:27 PM
jack it up one side at a time and use the ramps as jack stands or just get stands

Tru2Chevy
12-14-2009, 04:14 PM
Your idea with the 2x8s should work fine, just make sure when you nail / screw them together you stagger them so they sit flush with the incline on the ramp.

- Justin

creeper
12-14-2009, 05:22 PM
I have to drive up onto my custom 2x8 ramps to get a jack under. i don't clear rhino ramps without them either. oh the hassles of being low.

rhino ramps work fine for stock height cars though

B4C
12-14-2009, 11:30 PM
Yeah just jack up the car and put the ramps under the wheels.

maroman88
12-20-2009, 07:55 AM
the rhino ramps are like 20 bucks... id save the hassle of building stuff lol

creeper
12-20-2009, 06:48 PM
^^^ they're like $40 or $50 by me