Teach me about

[FlyingDutchman]

Subwoofers!

What I am looking for is to get a little bit of bump, nothing overkill, seeing there is absolutely nothing now. It's depressing.

So I was looking into mounting one (1) 10" sub in the rear with an amp.

I'm new to this. I understand electronics a bit, but not enough to know how to find the right combination of sub/amp.

Anybody feel like lecturing me??? or helping me pick out a combo? not looking to break the bank on sound


Edit:
I've got an aftermarket alpine CDA-9847 headunit, thats about all...

[Green_Phoenix_LT1]

I am partial to Kicker Products myself. Never had one go bad and they are the best bang for the buck. Right now I have Kicker KS series speakers all the way around powered by a Kicker ZX650.4 amp. Believe it or not this setup is loud and clear. From my experience I would suggest going with a 12" if you plan on making your car loud and nasty(motor/exhaust wise). I had a 10" Kicker L5 in my TA powered by a Kicker ZX1000.1 at almost full gain(max on sub was 900) and my exhaust overpowered it especially when the tops were down. 12 inches tend to stay just as tight as tens but can reach louder dbs while not requiring that much power. The reason I like the solobaric(square style) woofers so much is because they have about 30% more surface area and move more air than their round equivalents. Let me know if you have any questions.

My experience: I used to install systems on the side and worked at a custom audio shop in sales. Plus I'm a technology nut and usually keep up with what works best.

[FlyingDutchman]

Aright makes sense. So if I got a 350 RMS mono amp, would that put enough power to a 12" sub? a 10" sub? Or will I be starving it and not getting good sound quality?

As for engine sound, its pretty tame through the magnaflow at the moment. If need be I could always upgrade. For now I'd like something nice and baseline to start off with.

Oh and then theres impedance... Should the sub have a higher ohm rating (like 4?) and the amp a lower rating (say 2?) or the other way around? Or should the be the same?

[Green_Phoenix_LT1]

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/fp/search/camaro/sfv/30046/field/3/order/desc/order_by/sell_price

I already did the searching for you. I have purchased quite a few items from them in the past and I have had nothing but great experiences with them. Great pricing and package deals especially for kicker products. Theyre an authorized retailer and thus kickers warranty is in tact an honored by kicker. Theres everything from single and dual 10, 12, vehicle specific enclosures with amp and install kits. No solarbarics but if your looking just to add alittle clarity(especially with that alpine you can cut the low end out of your speakers and adjust the frequencies of the highs) the comp and compvr models are good. I had two compvr 10s in a 04 cavalier in a ported box with a 750.1 wired at 2ohms and it was always mistaken for bigger subs. If you have any further questions feel free to im me on aim GreenPhoenixLT1.

[V]

explaining stereo setups and subwoofers etc is very difficult, mainly because theres so much out there and certain people have their preferences to certain products. ive done many car stereos, my own and for friends, and all have been great. from simple head unit installs to full rewiring. From my experiences, i know what works for me and what doesnt, and what brands i like to use. Variable such as how you run speaker and power wires, sizing and length are all things that along with power ratings will always be a slight bit argued upon from installer to installer. For that reason, i wont ever get into a "debate" over a setup or method that i personally knows works for me, nor will i tell someone their preferred "style" is wrong. What i will say about stereo systems in general is the following.. dont "underpower" subs, run power/remote wires on opposite side of car than speaker/rca cables, thicker is always better, but there does come a point when its overkill ie. 1-0 gauge for a 300watt amp. And my personal brands i use are Pioneer headunits(no others) JL subs(Orion kicker and sounstream(older at least) are also good), alpine soundstream orion JL or kenwood(cheaper but ok for average) amps. 12Ga speaker wiring for subs at a min, and 4Ga for amp power..

those are all my Personal beliefs so i will not debate them, lol.

[Green_Phoenix_LT1]

I agree with V. "To each their own" is a good motto when it comes to systems. As far as his technical advice here it's right on the money.

[Syzygy]

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2395090/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046/order/desc/order_by/sell_price

is that designed for the spare tire area? if not, enlighten me. thanks.

[Green_Phoenix_LT1]

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2395090/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046/order/desc/order_by/sell_price

is that designed for the spare tire area? if not, enlighten me. thanks.

no its designed for the empty space on the drivers side.

[V]

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2395090/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046/order/desc/order_by/sell_price

is that designed for the spare tire area? if not, enlighten me. thanks.

Brand:Subwoofer Boxes
Condition:New
Make:Chevy / Pontiac
Model:Camaro / Firebird
Years:93 - Up
Subwoofer(s) Included:No
Vehicle Location: Driver Side Well
Frequency Response:N/A
Magnet Weight:N/A
Efficiency:N/A
Impedance:N/A
RMS Power Handling:N/A
Peak Power Handling:N/A

Want to add some bass to your 93-02 Chevy Camaro / Pontiac Firebird but you don't want to lose your T-Tops storage area? Don't worry we have you covered! This single 10" enclosure installs in the rear cubby area on the drivers side of the vehicle and is ready to accept almost any model subwoofer!...i think its obvious where it goes.

[procamaroz28]

whats the point... cant u hear the stock speakers?? LOL

[MyFirstZ]

they sell the stealth box that fits in there and an amp rack that mounts to the back wall. You can always get a box and sub (brand new off ebay) for about 100-150$. That is how i got my 10 jl w2. Got that for 115$ with the stealth box. Then call crutchfield or something to get a matching amp. I just went down to my local stereo shop and asked them what would they recommend.

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f31/myfirstcamaro/P1030045.jpg

[Green_Phoenix_LT1]

all i did was upgrade the headunit, speakers and amped the speakers and i hear min loud and clear even with the tops down. Kicker KS series all around powered by a kicker zx650.4.

[FlyingDutchman]

Exactly what I was planning on doing MyFirstZ :nod: I actually made something to fill in the gap there that I will make outa MDF board and cover with automotive carpet, should look like yours when its done.

Do you have a separate bass controller up front? I've seen some with that, are they really worth it?

[Syzygy]

...i think its obvious where it goes.

sorry, i own a thirdgen. heh.

[FlyingDutchman]

Upon doing a lot of research, I'm wondering if an infinite baffle style box is best (like one side made of MDF and the other sides whatever is surrounding it) or a sealed box (complete MDF all the way around)

[V]

go sealed. It provides the smallest possible air space in almost all cases. Just see what the sub specs require and get a matching box.

[FlyingDutchman]

Does the interior shape of a sub box matter if it is sealed? If so should it be symmetrical or asymmetrical? Or as long as it has the required air space the only factor in shape?

I'm sorta stuck b/c the sealed boxes Ive seen seem to be symmetrical on the inside and sometimes not on the inside ....


My main concern is ~ 0.5 cubic feet enough air space for 1 10" sub?

[V]

what sub is it? i know my old Soundstream 12 Mules spec'd for .75 cubic feet

[FlyingDutchman]

Ok more questions lol

So i pretty much finished my box, made it as air tight as i could (PL400 on the joints, phenosyl caulk on teh interior seams, and a primer/sealer to cover teh rest)

wtf is polyfill lol is that just regular stuffing? i read it can make the driver act like its in a bigger box (in the event my box sucks, in which case ill just buy one then haha) would fiber glass insulation give the same effect?


And in regards to the headunit... from what i could find in the manual, it has and RMS of 18watts for 4 speakers... weeakk! lol could i put a separate 4-channel amp to boost power? im thinkin of replacing the current speakers but all the new ones seem to run on a higher RMS so my headunit would be underpowering them

[Tru2Chevy]

You should be able to get polyfil from the craft isle at walmart. I've also seen it at home depot. Fiberglass insulation would be too dense.

You want to use about 1 lb. of polyfil per cubic foot of space in your box - don't over do it.

- Justin

[FlyingDutchman]

Need an opinion from you guys


Found an amp by POWER ACOUSTIK (http://www.ritzcamera.com/product/EP99106625.htm?utm_medium=productsearch&utm_source=google)

Max power is 1500 Watts
RMS is 1 x 500 Watt (4 Ohm)

Paired with this sub by ALPINE (http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_500SWR1042/Alpine-SWR-1042D.html?tp=111)
4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil
Max power handling is 1500 Watts
RMS handling is 200-500 Watts


Would this combination work?????

[V]

well, personally id never buy a power acoustik product.. even so. that 1500w is meaningless on the amp and sub, and i wouldnt even get that number in your head. lol.

other than that all, yes it would "work"

[FlyingDutchman]

I was looking more at the RMS numbers, and ive read PA isnt the best but it works lol

i think the sub is pretty good, any other amp suggestions??

[FlyingDutchman]

Found a more reliable Alpine combo

same sub as i listed before except itd be 2ohm and the amp would be an Alpine m500 which has a max output of 1000watts (sub peaks at 1500) and 2ohm RMS power of 500watts which is the max RMS handling of the sub.

So from that i should be safe from a blowout and its a class d mono so it wont run too hot

I think ill be sticking with this combo, couldnt find any good reviews on PA and everything around that price seems to suck... haha

[creeper]

no clue on the sub selection, but lemme know when you're installing it all. I've done a few little systems.

alsoooo I recommend we do headers at the same time to counteract the added weight.

[FlyingDutchman]

no clue on the sub selection, but lemme know when you're installing it all. I've done a few little systems.

alsoooo I recommend we do headers at the same time to counteract the added weight.

Thats a fantastic idea haha



Heres a wiring question though


The amp Im going to buy runs 4ohm at 200RMS and 2ohm at 500RMS, obviously id like to run at the higher power, they make the particular sub im going to buy in either 4ohm DVC or 2ohm DVC. From what i understand you can make the 4ohm DVC present a load of either 2 or 8 ohms and the 2ohm DVC present either 4 or 1 ohm loads... So im wondering how do i wire the 4ohm DVC sub to present a 2 ohm load???

[3rdGenHardtop]

Thats a fantastic idea haha



Heres a wiring question though


The amp Im going to buy runs 4ohm at 200RMS and 2ohm at 500RMS, obviously id like to run at the higher power, they make the particular sub im going to buy in either 4ohm DVC or 2ohm DVC. From what i understand you can make the 4ohm DVC present a load of either 2 or 8 ohms and the 2ohm DVC present either 4 or 1 ohm loads... So im wondering how do i wire the 4ohm DVC sub to present a 2 ohm load???


To reach a 2ohm load with a single 12" DVC woofer with (2) 4ohm coils, you would run them in parallel. This is to connect the positive terminals on the woofer together, and the negative terminals on the woofer together, and then also connect the positive and negative to the amp (usually via a terminal cup on the box).

[FlyingDutchman]

So finally got around to hooking up everything, had Nate (19iroc88) and another friend come over. Everything went quite smooth, hid all the wires (looks profeshh)... went to turn it on and..... nothing. Checked and rechecked wires. I got pwr to the amp, but the sub did nothing. Noted that the LED in the amp had a slight flicker instead of a constant stream. Called some audio techs, explained in full detail and audio jargon, and they seemed like i was talking another language, very disappointed with the "experts".

So long story short, we didn't have a sufficient enough ground (not clean enough metal) so I relocated the wire to a new spot and wallah! BASS! Ill stick a pic up later 8-)

[FlyingDutchman]

http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt169/1997camaroz28/0702001102.jpg

Alpine SWR-1042d 4Ohm DVC Subwoofer wired @ 2Ohms for 500w RMS housed in a custom sealed box (i made it myself lol) wired to a Alpine MRP-M500 Amp 500w RMS 1000w Peak, so far so good :mrgreen: Now i need to redo the other speakers... lol