View Full Version : any oil recomendations??
transmaro93
04-27-2010, 06:14 PM
hey guys first off what is a good time to change the oil for the first time on a fresh build (still has crappy oil in it for initial start up) i put probably like 10 miles on it, but it has been run alot in my driveway since first start up. Im going to run synthetic, does anybody have any oils that they swear by. Builder told me mobile one, but im just seeing what everyone else is using. thanks
LTb1ow
04-27-2010, 06:17 PM
Pennz or RP.
F M1.
Syzygy
04-27-2010, 06:17 PM
Amsoil. 8-)
edpontiac91
04-27-2010, 06:32 PM
Hot Rod magazine did a test that showed Royal Purple DID add 2-4 h.p. when compared to all other oils. I use 5W-30 and it also can be used for up to 7,000 miles. I know you'll never feel 2-4 h.p., but every little bit adds up.:nod:
FoodStampsz
04-27-2010, 06:59 PM
ya dude royal purple is the good stuff, hit that up at 5,000 miles a piece and you'll have a good long running motor
91chevywt
04-27-2010, 07:06 PM
I assume you're running a roller cam? If so, most of the synthetics out there will work fine for you. Amsoil has a good reputation along with Royal Purple although I can't comment on them personally. Seem like overkill for my use (too much $$ per quart). I use Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic in my truck and it works adequately. I've also used Valvoline's full synthetic with adequate results. I think just about any of the full synthetics out there will work fine for you.
I don't understand how some people can tell the difference between some of these without having a professional oil analysis done, other than fuel mileage and the fact that the engine still runs with good oil pressure. Most of it is just heresay I think. Just be sure to stay away from synthetic blends, if you want a true "synthetic" oil.
Syzygy
04-27-2010, 07:11 PM
...Amsoil has a good reputation along with Royal Purple although I can't comment on them personally. Seem like overkill for my use (too much $$ per quart)....
High end synthetics are actually cheaper if you run the recommended extended oil change intervals. Amsoil has an oil with a maximum change interval of 35,000 miles (although I wouldn't go that far due to consumption and such). I do use it in my delivery van and change my oil every 20,000 miles. It is now up to 353,000 miles, ~175,000 of which was on Amsoil.
transmaro93
04-27-2010, 07:17 PM
only thing is amsoil is hard to come by... where do you get it? thanks for the info guys and yes its a HR cam...
BonzoHansen
04-27-2010, 07:18 PM
I assume you're running a roller cam? If so, most of the synthetics out there will work fine for you. Amsoil has a good reputation along with Royal Purple although I can't comment on them personally. Seem like overkill for my use (too much $$ per quart). I use Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic in my truck and it works adequately. I've also used Valvoline's full synthetic with adequate results. I think just about any of the full synthetics out there will work fine for you.
I don't understand how some people can tell the difference between some of these without having a professional oil analysis done, other than fuel mileage and the fact that the engine still runs with good oil pressure. Most of it is just heresay I think. Just be sure to stay away from synthetic blends, if you want a true "synthetic" oil.
werd
Advance often runs deals on castrol synth & better filters (k&n, pure1) for like $24.99
JSPERFORMANCE
04-27-2010, 07:20 PM
Amsoil is great stuff. We run it in everything.. The XL series motor oil costs $7.25 a quart. Available here at JSP. We also do a package with 5qts of xl and a Wix filter for $45 + tax.
Josh
JS Performance
215-783-4645
91chevywt
04-27-2010, 07:21 PM
I have heard that myself, I was going to go through the process to become an amsoil distributor since work was slow, but decided not to do it in the end. I haven't used their products myself, but I suppose the oil change interval is just a mental thing for me. It would make me nervous to run 35000 miles without changing the oil or filter even though it has been proven to be ok. I'm a 3000 mile guy
Syzygy
04-27-2010, 07:24 PM
only thing is amsoil is hard to come by... where do you get it? thanks for the info guys and yes its a HR cam...
I get it straight from amsoil as I'm a dealer, but I only did it for personal use and for my friends.
edpontiac91
04-27-2010, 08:36 PM
I paid only $4.75 per quart for the Royal Purple. They had it on sale at Strauss Auto Stores. You have to watch the Sunday newspapers and check the flyer inserts. You can usually find one of the full synth oils on sale.
MyFirstZ
04-27-2010, 08:43 PM
amsoil for me, i change it every 5.5 just cause i am rough on my car and i dont like the idea of keeping a filter in that long
JSPERFORMANCE
04-27-2010, 09:20 PM
When we were trying new oils (after Mobil one changed their formula) I researched Royal Purple and used it myself. I found that it broke down alot faster than the Amsoil and even some conventionals. It always came out very thin where the Amsoil seems to keep its viscosity alot better. In fact we recently changed the IROC over to the Amsoil Dominator race oil and the car picked up .2 and 2 mph. I was sceptical at first but there were no other changes made and the DA and temp were the same as some passes last year where the car was the .2 slower.. I dont know for sure if the oil did it but I am not gonna run anything else..
Syzygy
04-27-2010, 09:40 PM
.2 sounds a bit much, but awesome.
jts98z28
04-27-2010, 09:45 PM
i run amsoil (my neighbor is a dealer) or RP
JSPERFORMANCE
04-27-2010, 09:57 PM
Sy- I agree, like I said I thought no way but the car is EXACTLY the same as it was last season.. All I did to prep for this year was change the oil and plugs as usual. The timing, bottle pressure and fuel are all exactly the same.. No real evidence to say anything definate but with it being the only thing different from last season I am a believer.
1QWIKBIRD
04-27-2010, 10:37 PM
When we were trying new oils (after Mobil one changed their formula) I researched Royal Purple and used it myself. I found that it broke down alot faster than the Amsoil and even some conventionals. It always came out very thin where the Amsoil seems to keep its viscosity alot better. In fact we recently changed the IROC over to the Amsoil Dominator race oil and the car picked up .2 and 2 mph. I was sceptical at first but there were no other changes made and the DA and temp were the same as some passes last year where the car was the .2 slower.. I dont know for sure if the oil did it but I am not gonna run anything else..
I agree. Royal Purple is more hype and PR than substance.
I wouldn't pay the $$$ for Royal Purple. My own oil analysis came back with less than stellar results after only 3 20 minute track sessions and 3 or 4 autox events. The oil had already sheared out and had broken down. This similar what the previous owner of the car (2MCHPWR) experienced when owned the car. At the time he made the switch to Redline. So same car, two different tests, two different labs and the the same below average results from a supposedly top shelf synthetic oil.
I couldn't find Redline easily, so I decided to give Royal Purple another try. Not what I would expect from a full synthetic oil that makes the claims that RP does. Might be fine for a daily driver, but not for any kind of hard use (not abuse), just hard driving.
The car now gets Amsoil, we'll see how that holds up after it goes out for analysis.
Green_Phoenix_LT1
04-27-2010, 11:11 PM
I use Mobil-1 5w30 and I change every 3000 miles. I have a new build as well and I hanged it after the first 500 then after the first 1000. Probably overkill but it seemed to be good for my motor. I have strong pressure and when I change the oil the viscosity seems to hold up pretty well. Im not a mechanic or well experienced like some of these guys but personally its what has worked for me.
JerzLT1
04-28-2010, 03:09 AM
Amsoil for the race car, Pensoil Plat for the daily
MonmouthCtyAntz
04-28-2010, 06:37 AM
Kinda figured this post was going to turn into an Amsoil ad lol...I used Pennzoil Ultra my last change...suppose to be better to Pennzoil Plat. 28 Bucks for 5 qts @ wally world.
JSPERFORMANCE
04-28-2010, 07:17 AM
The problem with oils and other products in fact is when they become available to the mass market (wall mart, auto zone, etc.) the retailers are constantly pressuring the manufacturers to sell at cheaper prices. When a company is buying millions of dollars worth of product it tends to have a little pull to say the least. The manufacturers respond to the lower cost demands by finding cheaper ways to make their product.. This starts a snowball effect like we saw with Mobil 1 which is now more of a semi synthetic oil thanks to the cheaper base they are using.. I can't see Amsoil, Redline, Gibbs, Brad Penn going to the mass market in the near future, they all seem to be more interested in the specialty market than anything else.
sweetbmxrider
04-28-2010, 07:27 AM
i would run what the builders said, they built the motor.
JSPERFORMANCE
04-28-2010, 07:29 AM
i would run what the builders said, they built the motor.
best advice in this thread...
JerzLT1
04-28-2010, 08:47 AM
i would run what the builders said, they built the motor.
+1 listen to your builder. not listening to them can be an expensive lesson to learn... ask me how i know
BigAls87Z28
04-28-2010, 10:13 AM
There are huge differences between synthetic oils.
A true Group IV base stock is the only real synthetic oil.
The "sythetic" oils you get from Valvoline, Penz, Castrol, etc etc are highly moddified Group III stock, which is still dino oil.
You have 4 grades of oil. Most oil you buy from the big oil companies are Group III. Each company puts in different additive packages depending on its need (high milage, blends, high/low zinc)
Amsoil its a true group IV. RP used to be, but I believe due to changing up its formula to sell in retail markets (read: lower costs) that they went with a Group III.
The German Castrol Syntec is a true Group IV synthetic, but its only sold here in 0w30.
Mobil 1 and RP used to or still sell a Group IV synthetic oil but like it was said, due to the fact that it wanted retail sales, it reformulated its stuff.
As for what you should use, Mobil 1 has never let me down and I have always heard good things of Amsoil. For a while I was using Valvoline for the old Caprice, but for the Malibu Ive switched to the German Castrol.
Syzygy
04-28-2010, 10:28 AM
I find it just as worth it as much as or more so to put a good oil in a daily just because they have a less stressful job and can have their changes extended. Thus saving even more money. plus they protect better all the while.
BigAls87Z28
04-28-2010, 02:31 PM
Stop and go traffic is pretty harsh.
Syzygy
04-28-2010, 02:46 PM
Stop and go traffic is pretty harsh.
not nearly as harsh as stop and go drag racing.
sweetbmxrider
04-28-2010, 03:24 PM
what about group V oils?
BigAls87Z28
04-28-2010, 04:03 PM
not nearly as harsh as stop and go drag racing.
Ehhhh...
Depending on the car, lets say a drag racer. You drive anywhere from 8-13 sec down a straight line, WOT.
13 sec with the majority of it at high RPM, say 6500rpm for a 13 sec car.
Factor in that I am driving 20 mins a day, one way, in a varried range from idle to 3k rpm...
Stop and go is very rough for your engine.
what about group V oils?
jaggasss
sweetbmxrider
04-28-2010, 04:09 PM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
Synthetic oil and synthetic blends
Synthetic lubricants were first synthesized, or man-made, in significant quantities as replacements for mineral lubricants (and fuels) by German scientists in the late 1930s and early 1940s because of their lack of sufficient quantities of crude for their (primarily military) needs. A significant factor in its gain in popularity was the ability of synthetic-based lubricants to remain fluid in the sub-zero temperatures of the Eastern front in wintertime, temperatures which caused petroleum-based lubricants to solidify due to their higher wax content. The use of synthetic lubricants widened through the 1950s and 1960s due to a property at the other end of the temperature spectrum, the ability to lubricate aviation engines at temperatures that caused mineral-based lubricants to break down. In the mid 1970s, synthetic motor oils were formulated and commercially applied for the first time in automotive applications. The same SAE system for designating motor oil viscosity also applies to synthetic oils.
Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils, Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV). Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a much improved viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils. However, they still fill up with particulate matter, although at a lower rate compared to conventional oils, and the oil filter still fills and clogs up over time. So, periodic oil and filter changes should still be done with synthetic oil; but some synthetic oil suppliers suggest that the intervals between oil changes can be longer, sometimes as long as 16,000-24,000 km (10,000–15,000 mi).
With improved efficiency, synthetic lubricants are designed to make wear and tear on gears far less than with petroleum-based lubricants, reduce the incidence of oil oxidation and sludge formation, and allow for "long life" extended drain intervals. Today, synthetic lubricants are available for use in modern automobiles on nearly all lubricated components, potentially with superior performance and longevity as compared to non-synthetic alternatives. Some tests[citation needed] have shown that fully synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil in many respects, providing better engine protection, performance, and better flow in cold starts than petroleum-based motor oil.
watch your ss's, PAL
NastyEllEssWon
04-29-2010, 03:29 AM
not a fan of royal purple i used it once and didnt hold up as well as the mobil 1 usually does. i hear awesome things about amsoil though. i use m1 in performance cars and mobil clean 5k in the daily drivers.
SilverDropTop
04-29-2010, 12:48 PM
I use Pennz Plat in my Camaro and Denali with the K&N 2006 Long Filter. I have no complaints and they seem to be doing a good job. I actually have better and more consistent oil pressue in the Camaro using the Penn since switching from Mobil 1.
NJ346
04-29-2010, 03:31 PM
I use Pennzoil Platinum in the Camaro, it always seems to be the one that least breaks down for me.
transmaro93
05-02-2010, 06:48 PM
well based on what i learned in this thread (thanks for all the info guys). and iv done some of my own research, im going to run Amsoil. Mainly because i couldn't find one bad review on the stuff and all the oil tests iv researched, amsoil comes in first place in wear protection and lack of break down. My next question is that there is two different oils offered in 5w30 from them, they have a "100% synthetic oil" and then a "XL oil" does anybody know the differences? i would figure to go with the 100% stuff. keep in mind this thing will probably wont have the oil changed all the time like a DD would so i dont mind the extra cash.
JSPERFORMANCE
05-02-2010, 06:55 PM
the XL is their standard synthetic.. The other stuff is their "extended drain" stuff. I wouldnt push either of them past 3000 or one season but if you want a little better additive package then go for the 100% stuff. Either will suit your needs just fine..
transmaro93
05-02-2010, 06:55 PM
also is a standard wix filter good to use with amsoil... thats what filter im using now (napa select is made by wix)
transmaro93
05-02-2010, 06:57 PM
both are group 4 full sythetics though, right? Josh do you ship this stuff?
JSPERFORMANCE
05-02-2010, 07:01 PM
the 100% means everything in it is synthetic base and additives where the XL has some dino based ingredients in the additive pack.. The Napa Gold is the standard Wix filter not the select.. We can ship but I do not accept credit cards as of now..
Firebird92
05-02-2010, 07:09 PM
WTF this whole thread and no one said nothing about Brad Penn come on www.bradpennracing.com
my grandfather been running this for years and it's the best stuff i think
JSPERFORMANCE
05-02-2010, 07:11 PM
brad penn is very good stuff but not synthetic.. In fact we use their break in oil (or Gibbs) depends on the engine..
transmaro93
05-02-2010, 07:15 PM
ok napa gold then is what im using... that filter will filter this oil well?? ok well not taking a card prob wont help me... you dont do like a paypal or something ( i can get it somewhere locally but since your a sponsor id give you the business)
JSPERFORMANCE
05-02-2010, 07:25 PM
Cash or check... Gotta keep the prices down somehow..
sweetbmxrider
05-02-2010, 07:30 PM
did you check with your builders to see what weight you should be running? they did set the bearing clearances. just looking out for you....r motor :twisted:
Cash or check... Gotta keep the prices down somehow..
i hear that
transmaro93
05-02-2010, 07:31 PM
well... paypal comes out of my checking... im just saying once you get the check in the mail and then mail it out its going to be to long for me... paypal is like instant...
transmaro93
05-02-2010, 07:32 PM
yea adam they told me any 5w30 full synthetic oil will work fine... the motor isnt that crazy its just my baby so i want to run the best i can in it
Adam1978
05-02-2010, 07:34 PM
i've seen and heard alot of good about Royal Purple, but its expensive lol im planning on using it whenever i need an oil change and just so happen to have extra money, which isnt often, so its pennzoil or whatever synth special Advance is having.
Mark42
05-07-2010, 11:00 AM
i would run what the builders said, they built the motor.
A lot of guys run 5-30 in their V6. I still use 10-30 because that is what the manual says. I gotta believe the manufacturer before anyone else as to what to use.
A lot of guys run 5-30 in their V6. I still use 10-30 because that is what the manual says. I gotta believe the manufacturer before anyone else as to what to use.
you have to also remember that the owners manual is a guideline. it doesn't get changed depending on where the car is being shipped to. the suggestions it makes are something that can be used world wide in varying environmental conditions, cars that dont see the varying conditions that others do can use different levels of oil.
Frosty
05-07-2010, 01:11 PM
you have to also remember that the owners manual is a guideline. it doesn't get changed depending on where the car is being shipped to. the suggestions it makes are something that can be used world wide in varying environmental conditions, cars that dont see the varying conditions that others do can use different levels of oil.
Yup.
...to further add...it's a stock V6...who the F cares? :rofl: It's not like we're talking about a 500hp motor that really needs specific oil based on how they're built.
sweetbmxrider
05-07-2010, 02:27 PM
usually they give ratings for different temperatures too but i was referring to the fact that his motor is no longer stock.
BonzoHansen
05-07-2010, 02:36 PM
5w30 and 10w30 are the same hot, no? SAE30 is the same viscosity as a 10w30 or 5W30 at 100° C or whatever hot is. No? 5 is thinner than 10 at cold temps. At least that is my understanding.
sweetbmxrider
05-07-2010, 04:24 PM
ya, thats why they recommend 5w30 for cooler temps
BigAls87Z28
05-07-2010, 06:59 PM
5w30 and 10w30 are the same hot, no? SAE30 is the same viscosity as a 10w30 or 5W30 at 100° C or whatever hot is. No? 5 is thinner than 10 at cold temps. At least that is my understanding.
This.
10w30
5s30
0w30
Its all the same weight @ operating temps.
The first number is just for intitial start up. The 10 weight might be better for warmer temps while 0 or 5 would be better for warmer temps.
NastyEllEssWon
05-07-2010, 10:10 PM
This.
10w30
5s30
0w30
Its all the same weight @ operating temps.
The first number is just for intitial start up. The 10 weight might be better for warmer temps while 0 or 5 would be better for warmer temps.
soooo which one is it :lol:
MonmouthCtyAntz
05-08-2010, 05:56 AM
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1778710
Heres a test i found on Pennzoil Ultra...Kinda funny how excited these guys get off of oil tests :mrgreen:...Ultra has a customer here, the cars been running great.
edpontiac91
05-08-2010, 08:08 AM
BUY GOOD OIL (WHATEVER YOU BELIEVE) CHANGE IT OFTEN, CASE CLOSED!:nod:
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