Questions before header install

[SeanC]

Hey guys,

I know there are a ton of header install guides, but I have a few questions I have that i'm still not 100% on. I'm installing pacesetter lontubes (AIR and EGR equipped) on my 96' Trans Am, and getting two magnaflow cats welded into the ORY. During the install, i'll be installing new plugs, wires (maybe over the valve cover), and new energy suspension motor mounts.

First Question: I don't need an O2 simulator for the O2 sensor after the cats, right? I read on an install guide that the guy installed 2 Cats and a simulator (doesnt make sense to me...)

Second Question: What is the best way to install the motor mounts? I've jacked my engine up using a jack and block of wood on the corner of the oil pan before....Is this the best option, to just do this one side at a time?

Third Question: I've heard that brand new headers mess up your O2 sensors by coating them with the stuff that burns off. Is there a way to avoid this? I dont want to ruin my O2 sensors and have to spend money on new ones...

Fourth Question: What spark plugs are best? I changed them last big project I did, but I think I want to put brand new ones in while i'm down there.

I'm getting a little scared for this project...everyone says how hard it is and my experience is so-so. I'm sure i'll be asking you guys for more advice as I get started.

Thanks for your help everyone!

Sean

[jts98z28]

Hey guys,

I know there are a ton of header install guides, but I have a few questions I have that i'm still not 100% on. I'm installing pacesetter lontubes (AIR and EGR equipped) on my 96' Trans Am, and getting two magnaflow cats welded into the ORY. During the install, i'll be installing new plugs, wires (maybe over the valve cover), and new energy suspension motor mounts.

First Question: I don't need an O2 simulator for the O2 sensor after the cats, right? I read on an install guide that the guy installed 2 Cats and a simulator (doesnt make sense to me...)

Second Question: What is the best way to install the motor mounts? I've jacked my engine up using a jack and block of wood on the corner of the oil pan before....Is this the best option, to just do this one side at a time?

Third Question: I've heard that brand new headers mess up your O2 sensors by coating them with the stuff that burns off. Is there a way to avoid this? I dont want to ruin my O2 sensors and have to spend money on new ones...

Fourth Question: What spark plugs are best? I changed them last big project I did, but I think I want to put brand new ones in while i'm down there.

I'm getting a little scared for this project...everyone says how hard it is and my experience is so-so. I'm sure i'll be asking you guys for more advice as I get started.

Thanks for your help everyone!

Sean

not much help but
1-you can just get 2 of your o2s

3-not that i know of, ive mine are still fine after about a year and a half of driving

[deadtrend1]

Hey guys,

I know there are a ton of header install guides, but I have a few questions I have that i'm still not 100% on. I'm installing pacesetter lontubes (AIR and EGR equipped) on my 96' Trans Am, and getting two magnaflow cats welded into the ORY. During the install, i'll be installing new plugs, wires (maybe over the valve cover), and new energy suspension motor mounts.

You want to go the OTVC wire route

First Question: I don't need an O2 simulator for the O2 sensor after the cats, right? I read on an install guide that the guy installed 2 Cats and a simulator (doesnt make sense to me...)

Option A: get o2 bungs welded post cats when you manage to find someone to weld the cats into the ORY

Option B: o2 simms for both banks post cat

option C: Get them tuned out buy a tuner like PCM4Less

Second Question: What is the best way to install the motor mounts? I've jacked my engine up using a jack and block of wood on the corner of the oil pan before....Is this the best option, to just do this one side at a time?

Yes, remove the long bolt, jack the engine up to give you some room, make sure its secure in the air, and try any way you can to get them out

Third Question: I've heard that brand new headers mess up your O2 sensors by coating them with the stuff that burns off. Is there a way to avoid this? I dont want to ruin my O2 sensors and have to spend money on new ones...

Send them to Jet-hot before you even put them in. I've heard it but not had a problem

Fourth Question: What spark plugs are best? I changed them last big project I did, but I think I want to put brand new ones in while i'm down there.

NGK

I'm getting a little scared for this project...everyone says how hard it is and my experience is so-so. I'm sure i'll be asking you guys for more advice as I get started.


Thanks for your help everyone!

Sean

[SeanC]

Thanks for the help so far guys!

So....I'd rather not even bother having bungs welded in...That means more $$ that I don't have lol. I guess i'll just buy O2 simulators until I get a tune for my car. Is there any disadvantage to not using your rear O2s? I assume not since they pretty much tell the computer that your cats are working.

I just read on the instructions for the motor mounts that it says, "DO NOT JACK THE ENGINE UP BY THE OIL PAN"...Should I just not worry about it? I really dont want to mess it up....

Is there a particular set of NGK plugs that are better than others? I see that the platinum ones are much less than the iridium ones.

Again, I greatly appreciate the help guys!

[BigAls87Z28]

Dont place the jack pad on the oil pan. You might want to spread the weight out by lifting the engine up on the crank pulley/balancer of if you can get your hands on a cherry picker, thats always good.

I believe that the TR55's are the prefered plug? Standard TR55's are thier V-Power coper plugs, but they do make iridiums as well.

[NastyEllEssWon]

Dont place the jack pad on the oil pan.





if you read earlier he plans to put a block of wood between the jackpad and the oil pan. the wood will be soft enough and evenly distribute the jacking force to not ruin anything. same principle as putting a motor/trans on a pallet :nod:

[LTb1ow]

Other than being even more of a pain in the ass and still be illegal, any reason for the emissions stuff?

I tried to run regular wires with pacesetters, did not work, highly recommend a universal LT1 MSD wire kit. With the 02s, run the ones that are in there now for a while after the header install, then swap em later. Remember to get 02 extensions too.

When I did motor mounts, I used a bottle jack under the crank hub and just let the motor lean over to a side after taking out that side's motor mount bolt. The mounts themselves can be a pain in the ass, you want a vice, dremel/grinder, BFH, and a good pry bar.

As far as plugs, I run autolite 104s, but stock should be 103s, my engine did not like other plugs, NGK etc... dunno.

[SeanC]

I got the pacesetters with emissions because i'm trying to keep it fairly street legal.....same deal with the cats. I really dont think it takes much power away and I dont want to have to worry about getting screwed everyday when I go past a cop. Plus, i'm not planning on getting a tune in the near future.

I can definitly see this project turning into a nightmare haha. I'm starting Friday and working all day Saturday (car is at home, i'm away at school). We'll see how far I get and how much I want to pull my hair out lol. My guess is that its going to be a multiple weekend thing

[RamAir95TA]

I'm going to sway to the opposite side of the spectrum and suggest you run the MSD wires in the stock routing. OTVC (IMO) looks tacky, make your valve covers impossible to keep clean, and clutter up the engine bay. Also, there is alot of room for error when you cut and crimp your own wires, not to mention how much of a pain in the ass it is. I ran OTVC on my car for 6 years and with my new 383 and LPPs, it was so much easier to route them in the stock looms using zip-ties to keep them away from the headers.

[SeanC]

Funny you say that, because I'm stuck routing them in the stock location. I ordered a set of regular MSDs not even thinking that they would need to be different lengths if I were to run them over the valve covers (dumb me). I'm thinking about just leaving the wires I have on right now for a bit and see how well they stand up to the heat from the headers. I would really hate to ruin a brand new set of MSDs....

Also, the two magnaflow cats (universal 3" spun) I bought do not have any type of heat shield on them. Is this something I may have a problem with as far as them getting really hot and heating up the floor in the car? (not really sure where they will be positioned exactly).

[Tru2Chevy]

Just get some wire sleeve for the good wires.....

http://www.jegs.com/p/Accel/Accel-Pro-Sleeve-And-Pro-Sleeve-Boot-Guard/747717/10002/-1

- Justin

[NastyEllEssWon]

you might as well not get the emission fittings because long tubes are illegal regardless. :nod:

[Tru2Chevy]

you might as well not get the emission fittings because long tubes are illegal regardless. :nod:

While this is true, you are far more likely to fail a visual check due to the lack of EGR and AIR hookups than you are because the cats have been moved back a bit. Technically, yes, it's illegal, but that doesn't mean that you should promote further illegal activity.

- Justin

[LTb1ow]

While this is true, you are far more likely to fail a visual check due to the lack of EGR and AIR hookups than you are because the cats have been moved back a bit. Technically, yes, it's illegal, but that doesn't mean that you should promote further illegal activity.

- Justin

Never had the hood popped, but def had the mirror stuck under the car. Granted I have only been once, but who's counting. :rofl:

I got the AIR/EGR crap on the dream I would pass, and well, anyone that knows my car can attest to its engine bay cleanliness... :lol:

Just go non emissions junk, get them tuned out, and run cats if you really feel like it.

[SeanC]

So I started the project this past weekend, and surprisingly, so far so good. I got all the old junk off in an afternoon (minus the O2 sensors, their frozen in the manifolds beyond belief, so I think i'm going to buy new ones). The next step is installing the new motors mounts this upcoming weekend.

A few questions as far as the headers go that I thought about when I was taking everything apart:

1) I dont have O2 extensions yet...What lengths do I need? From what i've read you need 1 12" for the passengers side and 1 24" for the drivers side (both flat). Is this correct?

2) Do I need to buy ramps and some wood to get the car high enough? I dont have ramps, and every write up i've seen they get the car rediculously high. Alls I have is a set of tall jack stands...

Anything I should know before tackling the motor mounts? It's a little intimidating...

Thanks for all the help so far guys, its nice to have someone help me through the process haha

[LTb1ow]

Higher you can get the car, the easier it will be to work under there, and it will give you some more wiggle room to sneak the headers up.

The mounts are not that bad, get a bottle jack under the crank hub and slowly raise the engine. Then loosen one sides bolt and when you can slide it out, do that, then raise the motor more with the jack. I would do the header now too, or you will be doing this again...

Then unbolt the mount from the block (driver side) or K member ( passenger side), hardest part will be grinding the stock rivets out, and then prying the mount apart to get the rubber stock one out. After you get that done, get the poly mount inside the clam shell, and re install, slowly lower the engine until you can line the bolt up.

[RamAir95TA]

I would feel more comfortable using a jack and several 2x4s under the oil pan/side rails as opposed to the crank hub to jack the motor up. I've heard of people jacking up the motor via the crank hub, but can't imagine the thrust bearing being very happy. :)

[SeanC]

Thanks for the responses guys, definitly helpful.

I think i'm planning on jacking it by the oil pan with some 2x4s...I did it once a while back when I was doing some work and it seemed to work fairly well (although it still scares me).

Thanks for saying to do the headers WHILE i'm doing the mounts. I'm not sure what I was thinking about doing one after the other lol.

Do you think I should route my new spark plug wires before I slide the headers into place? It looks like an absolute nightmare either way...

[RamAir95TA]

You will need to do the wires after you do the headers because you risk breaking off the plugs trying to finagle the headers into place. You'll have to get creative. :)

[LTb1ow]

You will need to do the wires after you do the headers because you risk breaking off the plugs trying to finagle the headers into place. You'll have to get creative. :)

Yea, def do not wanna screw that up.

With LTs, plug changing and access is a breeze. If you got make it your own wires, mock em up without the header in place ( if your going under em) and give yourself an inch or two slack.

[SeanC]

Unforunately, I already order MSD wires, so i'll be using them. Going to be interesting to say the least. Almost seems like one of the worst parts of the job lol

Also, i'm looking for a pair of AC Delco O2 sensors (flat), and 2 rear O2 sims (square). Anybody have any for sale? Thanks!

[LTb1ow]

Unforunately, I already order MSD wires, so i'll be using them. Going to be interesting to say the least. Almost seems like one of the worst parts of the job lol

Also, i'm looking for a pair of AC Delco O2 sensors (flat), and 2 rear O2 sims (square). Anybody have any for sale? Thanks!

Are you planning on tuning out the EGR/AIR or running it?

If tuning them out, just have the tuner remove the rear 02s as well.

[NastyEllEssWon]

after you get the rivets off the mounts its easier to heat up the mount insert first and itll pretty much do it itself. :nod:

[SeanC]

As of right now, I am planning on running the AIR/EGR and running O2 sims because I am not getting a tune. I dont really have the money for it, and I don't see any point in getting one yet until I have a few more mods....

What is everyones opinion on this? Is it woth getting a tune with my engine mods? I have a catback, longtubes, 1.5 RRs (they were given to me so I threw them on with hardened pushrods and guideplates instead of the stock stamped rockers), and a cold air intake. I just feel like its not worth it at this point. How much does a tune usually cost? I'm hoping to eventually get the LE2 package for my car, granted the motor holds together (110,000 miles).

I'll definitly try heating up the motor mount inserts, just need to get something to be able to heat them up with first lol

[JL8Jeff]

Do the motor mounts before you install the headers. I ran the MSD wires in the stock looms. You will need to pull them off and grind them open with a file or something but it's worth the effort. I bought some heat wrap to help protect the fuel lines where the y-pipe crosses from the driver's side and to protect some wires on the passenger side. The passenger side header is a paint to get in and get the EGR tube hooked up. You can run without a tune but the computer will be pretty far off so you will want to get it tuned when you can. You can try breaking the O2's loose with a hammer and wrench, but don't expect them to last long after that. I think I got a couple of weeks out of mine before they stopped working. But it's worth trying before you ruin the new ones with the coating that burns off the headers.

[SeanC]

Okay, i'm definitly planning on getting a tune (just not sure when yet). If I left the rear O2s disconnected without simulators, will the engine run right? I know the SES light will be on...I thought I read that when the SES light is on the computer goes into a "safe" mode or something, and does not run up to its potential.

I don't want to to spend money on O2 sims if i'm just going to get them tuned out when i get a tune in the future....

[Tru2Chevy]

Certain issues that set of the SES will force the engine to run in "limp home" mode, however rear O2s are not one of them. To be on the safe side, you should have the car scanned just to verify that the only code(s) that the SES is for are the rear O2s.

- Justin

[SeanC]

Okay, awesome. I have a scanner so i'll just double check that the SES light is because of the O2s. I should be going home to work on the car more this weekend (hopefully get it close to being done). I'll keep you guys updated, and i'm sure i'll have more questions haha

[JL8Jeff]

You may want to try and put the passenger side header up into place while you have the motor jacked up to do the mount on that side. I would do the driver's side motor mount first, then the passenger side and slide the header up into place while it's jacked up and before you put the bolt through the mount.

[SeanC]

I'm not going to have to jack the motor up for the drivers side? The passengers side seems like it has WAY more room than the drivers side...

[JL8Jeff]

You'll need to jack it up to do both sides but it will give you more room to slide the header into place on the passenger side with it disconnected and jacked up. And with the emission's headers you'll see what I'm talking about when the AIR and EGR tubes get caught on everything as you try to get it in place. I think it makes it easier if you move the alternator as well.

[Pampered-Z]

Also, the two magnaflow cats (universal 3" spun) I bought do not have any type of heat shield on them. Is this something I may have a problem with as far as them getting really hot and heating up the floor in the car? (not really sure where they will be positioned exactly).

Floor Pan? Do you realize that depending on where the cat is located the driver's side cat is going to be sitting inches away from your plastic fuel lines?

You want to address that. I wraped the fuel lines in heat resistent wrap, then made a heat sheild that is also coated with a mat.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14020/10002/-1

You want the one that has velco if you can find it. if not, what I did was take the thread out, wrap it around the lines and sew it back together.... Allot of work!

once the lines were wrapped I build an aluminum sheild covered with this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/16500/10002/-1

[SeanC]

I bought this heat resistant "tape" (DEI cool tape) that is made to wrap around wires/fuel lines/ etc. I'm going to have to see where the CAT is going to be positioned before I can decide on what further steps I have to take. I really dont have any idea where the exhaust shop needs to weld the cats into the y-pipe to have them fit right....

[LTb1ow]

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff114/malomanm/ImportedPhotos00006-1.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_CnD5lIys6wA/R9W3fXdivPI/AAAAAAAAADo/_UBL0SivXDg/s512/kooks-mockup.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c370/dans96ta/WS6004.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c370/dans96ta/WS6003.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c370/dans96ta/CarPics2005027S.jpg

There is not many people out there that do this...hope they kinda help ya.

[SeanC]

They're definitly helpful; thanks for posting them for me! Maybe i'll take the pictures when I go to the exhaust shop (where is yet to be determined..). I'm sure they will have somewhat of an idea of where the best place to locate them would be..

[LTb1ow]

http://precisionracecomponents.com/data/images/paceory.bmp

Sorry for the tiny pic, but passenger side cat can go right after the header, driver side will be a hassle. But if it were my car, I would stick it after the first bend after the header.

[SeanC]

Yeah thats what I was thinking, although its hard for me to picture where everything will line up once its all installed. Hoping to get everything in this weekend!

[JL8Jeff]

Here's my old 96 SS. This was before I had them welded up. The driver's side leaked a little because it was so close to the bend. The muffler shop charged me $40 to weld them because I had already installed them so it was no risk to them.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeffhansbury/pwpimages/Y-PIPE4.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeffhansbury/pwpimages/Y-PIPE3.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeffhansbury/pwpimages/Y-PIPE1.JPG

[SeanC]

Thats a nice setup....hoping to have mine similar to that, just hope I got the right cats for the job... And im praying that the exhaust shop isnt going to charge a ton. I dont really have the tools to cut the y-pipe and everything, so theyre going to have to do the whole deal..

[JL8Jeff]

All you really need is a hacksaw to cut the y-pipe. That is a very important tool and you should own one. I've cut a lot of piping with the hacksaw. The sawzall is good for quick cuts but it's not clean enough.

[LTb1ow]

All you really need is a hacksaw to cut the y-pipe. That is a very important tool and you should own one. I've cut a lot of piping with the hacksaw. The sawzall is good for quick cuts but it's not clean enough.

Yea, and most people should have at least the body of one, just grab some nice blades at home depot. They cut through exhaust piping very easy, and those clamps that Jeff used are lifesavers if you cannot afford or get to a welder. I use prob like four of them on my car... :rofl: But they get very tight and work well, much much much better than that crappy U clamps that crush the pipe and make install later MIIISERABLE..

[RamAir95TA]

Yea, and most people should have at least the body of one, just grab some nice blades at home depot. They cut through exhaust piping very easy, and those clamps that Jeff used are lifesavers if you cannot afford or get to a welder. I use prob like four of them on my car... :rofl: But they get very tight and work well, much much much better than that crappy U clamps that crush the pipe and make install later MIIISERABLE..

Band clamps FTW! I have five of them holding my exhaust together. It's great! :)

[NastyEllEssWon]

sawzall ftw....one of the best investments you can make. :nod:

[SeanC]

Hmmm...I honestly dont have a good hacksaw (still working on my tool collection - i'm only 20). I'm not against buying one, i'm just afraid i'm going to screw up my y-pipe by cutting it and not being happy with the position of the cats. You guys don't think I should leave it to a professional?

Waking up at 8 AM tomorrow to take on the motor and trans mount(s)!! Hoping to get all mounts done tomorrow so I can get the headers installed Sunday (and hopefully get everything more or less buttoned up).

[deadtrend1]

.... You guys don't think I should leave it to a professional?...

very hard to get a professional to install them as it is illegal for them to touch it.

[SeanC]

I'm sure I could find someone....Maybe i'll try to get a quote for someone to do it, and if I have trouble or it is really expensive i'll try to do it myself...

[NastyEllEssWon]

eh dont worry about the y pipe anyway...it most likely wont lineup with the header collector location anyway and any competant exhaust shop can bend a y easily.



i hacked an exhaust off once with a hacksaw and refuse to do it ever again....because it sucks to do. sawzall is the best way. 10 seconds and its done

[SeanC]

Haha i'm going to be really mad if my y-pipe doesnt line up.......Hopefully i'll find out soon enough

[LTb1ow]

very hard to get a professional to install them as it is illegal for them to touch it.

How so?

"racecar" use, I had no problem finding shops to weld in the cats to my Y pipe.. granted I never did.. but thats another story. :lol:

[SeanC]

Problem...I'm trying to replace the drivers side motor mount, I have the bolt out, but when I try to jack the motor by the oil pan, the entire car tries to lift up. Unfortunately I did not notice this right away, and my oil pan got dented a little (nothing bad, just a tiny bit)....I have no idea what to do. Why is the car moving instead of the motor? Please help!

[LTb1ow]

You got the main long bolt out right?

All teh exhaust is off?

I would try a pry bar to jar it loose.

[SeanC]

Alright...got the driver side motor mount replaced and the drivers side header in. I can't get the engine to line up right! The motor has shifted back and is hitting the one side of the mount...I remember this last time I jacked the motor up. I guess i'll just have to keep jacking/using a pry bar and hope to get it back to position.

Something I noticed is that the bolts for the header are rediculously close to each collector (I cant even fit a socket in there). I dont even think i'm going to be able to fit the stage 8 clips on them. Has anyone else had this problem?

What does everyone usually do about the master cylinder hydraulic line? Its basically touching the header and doesnt really have much slack to tie it out of the way...

Sorry for all the questions. Tough day to say the least haha.

[LTb1ow]

I used regular ole pacesetter supplied bolts, and as long as you keep an eye on em for a few heat cycles, they will stay tight after that.

[JL8Jeff]

I had no problem with the Stage 8 bolts. Don't bother putting the clips on until you've gone through a couple of heat cycles and re-tightened them. You may need to file down some of the clips to get them on nice and tight.

[SeanC]

Got the drivers side more or less complete (minus wires, plugs, etc).

I got the passenger side motor mount installed, and the header slipped into place. Once again, I can't get the motor mount to line up correcty. Everytime I lower the engine the side towards the front of the car always get stuck on the little tab of the ES motor mount insert. So frustrated right now....haha

The install was going fairly well, now i'm starting to curse and throw tools..

[SeanC]

Someone please help...i'm about ready to kill someone. 4 hours later and the damn motor mount is still hitting the tab on the ES insert. I have no idea what to do and my neighbors are beginning to think i'm crazy from all the yelling....

[NastyEllEssWon]

keep messing with it. you got the drivers side from playing with it, so keep at it. from what ive heard lt1 header install is not the simplest task in the world. dont give up youre almost there! ::thumbs up:: :nod:

[SeanC]

Thats whats killing me, IM ALMOST THERE and this is holding me up haha. I loosed up the drivers side mount to see if I could get some play from that to help the passengers side line up, but no go....The mount that attaches to the motor just keeps hitting the tab on the ES insert....I need it to move about 1/8" but I just cant get it to budge (pry bar, jacking in different places, etc). I'm taking a break because i'm absolutely exhausted, and so frustrated that I think i'm just moving backwards at this point.

If anybody has any suggestions, please help :cry:

[NastyEllEssWon]

do you have room to get a small rolling tip pry bar in through half of the pedestal/mount and slip the bolt through the other side to get it in???


http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images/Product/medium/2131.gif

[SeanC]

Heres pictures of what i'm dealing with. If I could just get it over that tab on the insert....I dont know if things got shifted or if the tab is just in the way....

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k271/SeanCZ06/IMG_1996.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k271/SeanCZ06/IMG_1995.jpg

[NastyEllEssWon]

anyway you can undo the clamshell from the kmember there to give it a little slack to drop down to get the tab over top, then jack it up to get the clamshells back in place and lower over top???

[SeanC]

hmm...didn't think about that.

So your saying unbolt the clamshell, lower the motor, and try to rejack the motor enough to install the clamshell?

[NastyEllEssWon]

well it looks like that gold tabs in your way. so what i was saying is try to drop the clamshell down under it, jack the motor up and over top to where it will clear then bring the clamshell back in place, without trying to force the motor past the gold tab move it over top the tab with the clamshell drooped down a bit.

[SeanC]

Alright i'll give that a try first thing in the morning...Was going to work on it a little more today, but i'm absolutely exhausted haha. Tough working in a gravel driveway...

[LTb1ow]

Take out the mount, grind that **** off.

[SeanC]

At one point, I was honestly thinking about it. What is the purpose of the tabs? I didn't want to cut it off and realize I ruined the mount...

[JL8Jeff]

I think I ran into that same problem and had to unbolt the clamshell and move it to get the long bolt lined up and all the way through. Then trying to get the clamshell bolts tightened up was a pain with the mount installed. I'm pretty sure I ended up grinding something down to make it a little easier.

[SeanC]

Well I ended up grinding the tabs down....It clears the tabs but I still can't get the thing to line up! At one point I got the bolt through the first side of the mount, but the other side wasnt even close.

How in the world did the engine get that much off? I would say the one side needs 1/4" to line up with the hole (you cant even see the hole no matter how you jack it. I've tried jacking it in different places and pulling/prying, but it just won't line up. Did I do something wrong with the mount or is the engine cocked? I have no idea what to do...I really can't get the damn thing to line up right

[JL8Jeff]

Did you loosen up the driver's side to help give you more movement to line it up? I remember I had to go back and do that. I know it took me 4 weekends in Dec-Jan to get mine done in the garage. It was 38 degrees in the garage and hard to hold the tools. I also had to hacksaw some flange material off the trans but that's because it was a replacement trans from an Astro Van. Do you have anybody helping you?

[SeanC]

Noone is helping me...just me in my rocky driveway haha. Sorry for asking so many questions, I dont have a ton of experience, so i'm trying to do all the projects myself to build my skills/confidence. I was hoping to get it done this past weekend because i'm not going to be able to go home from school for a few weeks now to work on it. Oh well, I tried my best to get it done haha.

Before I left, I was able to get the bolt 3/4 of the way through. The rear side of the mount is still off about 1/4". If I stuck a punch or something in the hole, I was able to twist the insert and get it to line up, but as soon as I let off pressure, the polyurethane insert would just twist back (I assumed it probably wasnt good to have it twisting like that anyways). Yes, I did end up loosening the drivers side mount in hopes of allowing for more movement. I guess i'm just going to have to keep playing with it to try to get it to line up. Its closer than it was when I started....I just cant believe it got that far off..

[LTb1ow]

Noone is helping me...just me in my rocky driveway haha. Sorry for asking so many questions, I dont have a ton of experience, so i'm trying to do all the projects myself to build my skills/confidence. I was hoping to get it done this past weekend because i'm not going to be able to go home from school for a few weeks now to work on it. Oh well, I tried my best to get it done haha.

Before I left, I was able to get the bolt 3/4 of the way through. The rear side of the mount is still off about 1/4". If I stuck a punch or something in the hole, I was able to twist the insert and get it to line up, but as soon as I let off pressure, the polyurethane insert would just twist back (I assumed it probably wasnt good to have it twisting like that anyways). Yes, I did end up loosening the drivers side mount in hopes of allowing for more movement. I guess i'm just going to have to keep playing with it to try to get it to line up. Its closer than it was when I started....I just cant believe it got that far off..


First lesson learned, never expect an LT1 related project to go as planned. :lol:

But you are getting there, just keep at it, sounds like you will have a fresh start later so you should be able to knock it out.

[SeanC]

Yeah i'm confident i'll get it done. Its definitly helpful walking away from it for a little while lol. Despite my difficulties with the motor mount, i'm pretty happy with how well i'm doing. Definitly feeling more confident working on Lt1s. When I first started, getting the exhaust manifold bolts/spark plugs out seemed physically impossible, now I can do it in under a few hours :-)

[NastyEllEssWon]

glad to see you getting it there....just keep working at it, you'll get it...especially after a fresh start...it'll give you time to calm down, get a bit more levelheaded and maybe have a few ideas of where you wanna start out when you get back to it.


:nod:

[SeanC]

Thanks for the support guys. You have all been extremely helpful!

When I start the project up again i'll keep everyone updated, and hopefully post some pictures of the final product! I'm absolutely dying to here it run....

[SeanC]

So i'm getting fairly close to starting it up, got plugs and wires done (wires dont fit in the passengers side wire loom well...oh well)...I know people are going to think it was a dumb idea to get headers with AIR/EGR hookups, but unfortunately, thats what I did.

I tried to hook the AIR components to the headers, and the threads WILL NOT go on. They screw on to the old manifolds fine, but no matter what I do, won't go on to the new headers. I'm going to call pacesetter tomorrow and see if they are any help. Any ideas????

[RamAir95TA]

Upon looking at the picture, are you sure you didn't install the bushing backwards? If you rotated it 180 degrees, the alignment tab would be on the other side.

[SeanC]

When I was first having a problem, I thought the same thing. If I flipped the bushing 180 degrees, the tab closest to where the engine lowers would be HIGHER than it is with the way I had it (pictured). It wouldnt make sense for it to be that way, it would cause the mount coming off the engine to hit the tabs even more....

Regardless, i'm done with trying to put that in. It just wasn't happening. The closest I could get it wasnt close enough for the bolt to go through the whole way, so the stock mount is back in.

Now I just have to figure out why my air fitting isnt screwing on to the pacesetter header......

[NastyEllEssWon]

get blockoff plates and say screw it :nod:

[SeanC]

I could kick myself for ordering headers with emissions now.....I'm not going to get block off plates. I hear that you can run into a lot of problems if you block off the air parts coming off the header (traps heat and can crack header). Any ideas why the threads are not matching up?

[Troy]

I've had block off plates on my headers for 7 years with no problems.

[NastyEllEssWon]

tons of people rock blockoff plates with no problem. hell a member here (i wont mention names) has a set of headers with a plug in it and jb welded up and it works well. if youre not looking for anything permanent you can just get the blockoff plates and some red rtv to help seal it up :nod:

[SeanC]

I'll definitly think about it in the future.....I feel like I need to get everything hooked up first though. I know its dumb, that was just the original plan and I plan on sticking with it for the time being :) lol

I'm really hoping pacesetter can help me if I call them. I dont understand why the threads would be different. I planned on getting the car running this weekend and I only have a few more hours tomorrow to work on it before I head back to school :cry: