How much do replacement rear struts and install cost?

[redbanditZ28]

I have an 03 Hyundai Accent and have recently found out that one of the rear struts is leaking. I don't know much about struts, but my mechanic told me that it would probably cost around $300-$350 for parts and installation to repair the problem. I chalk it up to me daily commuting in NJ, the state full of potholes every few feet away from each other.

Anyway, does that sound reasonable to get a rear strut replaced and installed? IF it sounds too high, does anyone have a place within central NJ that they can recommend? I usually trust my mechanic, but $350 sounds kind of high and he tends to like to use his own part dealer rather than researching good deals elsewhere. All he told me was that the passenger's side rear strut was leaking and that's probably what is causing my car to shimmy and vibrate on the highway at high speeds, which has made my car have a rough ride at the 50+ mph range on the highway and when I slighty turn onto highway ramps, I notice the right side of the car tends to feel like it is swaying a little, not much though.

I appreciate any feedback.

[NJ Torque]

That seems about right...

You can also ask him if thats just the strut cartriage or a "quick strut" where the spring is replaced and all.

[Blacdout96]

Shops won't let you bring in parts for insurance reasons, and because they also make a percentage of work off the part too. Say he buys the strut for 120 bucks, he might charge you 180. If you look at a NAPA receipt, there is a cost, and list price on there. Shops charge you list. $350 does sound about right, with parts and labor.

[BonzoHansen]

Shops won't let you bring in parts for insurance reasons, and because they also make a percentage of work off the part too.

They won’t let you carry in primarily because of warranty issues and headaches. If I install your part and there is a problem whose dime is it on? Even a clear cut parts failure is a bitch because the cheap bastard that brought the part in surely does not want to pay for the re-work. And if I didn’t source it I’m sure not going to eat the bad part. Then it is a pissing contest. Any gray area just compounds it 10000x.

It’s the same reason that shops don’t want to hear ‘I’m not paying for diagnostic time because autobone told me I need an O2 sensor’. If I just charge you an hour labor to install your autobone cheapo O2 sensor & clear your codes and your problem is not fixed, guess who gets bitched at? Not the moron at autobone. Because they have a fancy computer.

[redbanditZ28]

Appreciate the feedback. Thanks very much. Ultimately, I trust my mechanic, but he hasn't always been the cheapest with some things, and I just wanted to see if his pricing was too high. Glad to hear it isn't. Not glad to hear it generally costs that much.

Why so costly? Is the install a pain to do?

[Frosty]

It’s the same reason that shops don’t want to hear ‘I’m not paying for diagnostic time because autobone told me I need an O2 sensor’. If I just charge you an hour labor to install your autobone cheapo O2 sensor & clear your codes and your problem is not fixed, guess who gets bitched at? Not the moron at autobone. Because they have a fancy computer.

I deal with that every freakin' day. I actually had that happen, the customer fought tooth and nail after the "experts" at these idiot parts stores told him it was X sensor, it was deeper than that and he tried blaming us for it. It didn't work out too well for him. If you don't want to pay the $95 diagnostic fee to make sure it's the correct item/repair then you're on your own.

[Blacdout96]

Hence insurance, or a better term, CYA.

[Frosty]

It's really not insurance per say, there's nothing stating a shop can't used customer supplied parts...it's definitely CYA or reduce potential headaches.

[Blacdout96]

I realized I guess I worded it wrong, not insurance like liability insurance per say, but the insurance ( or shall I say reassurance) of knowing it is a new part ( or reman ) And that it is expected to work out of the box, and has a warranty if it craps out of the box, that the customer doesn't blame you for breaking it since they brought it in thinking it's supposed to fix it.

[redbanditZ28]

That makes sense about the liability/insurance reasons. Thanks for the feedback. Just glad to find out I am not getting jipped.

So is it very time consuming to replace?

[BonzoHansen]

a few hours time & probably alignment. it's not 30 minutes if that is what you are asking. he probably gave you a breakdown in parts & labor.

[redbanditZ28]

Might as well fix it then. I'll have a perfectly running car after it's fixed.

In the meantime, is there any high potential for damage if I continue to drive it for a few more weeks before I get it fixed? I mean I go over so many potholes anymore, it's impossible to avoid them in my driving areas. Even the back roads are God awful. I just wasn't sure if it's doing any damage to something in the meantime. I know the car definitely rattles at 50-55 mph on the highway, but oddly enough when I get it up to 60+, it doesn't rattle rarely at all.

It doesn't help that I will be driving down to FL the first week of June. Hope to have it fixed before that happens.