broken water pump bolt

[usp55]

ponch 400:

I picked up all new pulleys and had to replace my damper because it was a two piece and the pulleys require a more modern one. so i figured id replace the water pump for ****s and giggles while i was there. well the two longer bolts that go in the block were all rusted in there good and tight. after heat and a day of pb blaster i got one out. the other ones head started to round on me so i took my trusty grip tite socket and that broke off the head. So the pump is off but i have this f'in bolt still

I remember reading you can weld a nut on the stud to get it out. i tried 3 times but cant seem to get enough penetration on the stud and any pressure breaks the weld.

really dont want to drill it out but i dont think there is any other options.

[MyFirstZ]

I would just drill it at the point. As long as you have an idea of how deep it is shouldn't be that much of a risk. Is it in a pita spot?

Is any of the bolt exposed ?

[usp55]

1/4" exposed. I have the front end back on the car but ill just pull it off again so I can get at it straight.

[WildBillyT]

Your engine is already painted, right? And by "heat" do you mean propane or oxy/acet?

[usp55]

yeah propane is the best i could do. and when i tried to weld on the bolt two or three time i would assume that was a good amount of heat too

[WildBillyT]

Yeah, I was going to say I've used oxy with a rosebud tip and vice grips to rotate frozen stuff out of heads before.

[BonzoHansen]

maybe some mapp gas might get it hotter

[MyFirstZ]

Yeah, I was going to say I've used oxy with a rosebud tip and vice grips to rotate frozen stuff out of heads before.

That's where i was going

[GT Automotive]

maybe some mapp gas might get it hotter

I second for trying MAPP gas. I had the same thing happen and the MAPP gas worked. If you dont have it you can buy it a Home Depot, Sears etc. Its not expensive. Also the hose and tip are small and can reach tight areas. Try to get it cherry red. Good Luck.

[HardcoreZ28]

Welding a nut on is still your best bet. Try to find a nut that will fit over what's left hanging out of the bolt. You need to really weld it good...burn it in there. Try to focus the heat on the broken stuff and then pool the weld onto the nut. You'll probably distort the nut but you can use an adjustable or even vice grips to loosen it after. Also the heat from welding should really help loosen up any rust in there.

[greenformula92]

Welding a nut on is still your best bet. Try to find a nut that will fit over what's left hanging out of the bolt. You need to really weld it good...burn it in there. Try to focus the heat on the broken stuff and then pool the weld onto the nut. You'll probably distort the nut but you can use an adjustable or even vice grips to loosen it after. Also the heat from welding should really help loosen up any rust in there.

i agree 100% with that. also go to lowes or home dept and got some MAP gas. propane is for plumbing, MAP is for rusty GM's

[usp55]

so i went to lowes and got the 40buck mapp gas kit and i had that bolt red red hot. Prob let it have it for a good ten min even and nothing! took some vice grips to it. I gave it some more pb blaster and ill give it another go tonight.

[edpontiac91]

I know that Snap-On has a bolt remover set that works really well. You drill out the center and then hammer in a special star shaped bit and then using a 3/8" ratchet hopefully screw it out.

[usp55]

i got it!

mapp'd the hell out of it and pb blaster then welded a nut on there that finally stuck. the bolt ended up breaking in the timing cover with about 1/2 in in the block.

Everything happens for a reason (its ink'd on my ribs and deff true again and again) found some grooves on the inside of the timing cover. Cant be good. so i pulled the valley pan and the rods look a bit rusted. It would suck if one snapped. Cam looks to have a good amount of miles so i think i should just bite the bullet and rebuild her.


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