Turbo Componant Selections

[LS1ow]

yeayeayea, im shure most people know by now but i jumped on the turbo bandwagon...

but i have a few questions as to what i need/should get in regards to Wastegate, BOV and Intercooler.

Turbo kit will be assembled by my mad scientist father. already have my turbo, just waiting on some help from kohler with the flanges. then the whole hotside will be fabbed and welded in house at my shop.

but how do i go about knowing what to select for my BOV, Wastegate and Intercooler ?

plan on running a regular IC, no baller A2W set up

[LTb1ow]

Are you sure that turbo isn't an internal WG?

This is what I run doe...

JGS 40mm wastegate
31x12x3 A2A IC
JGS 50mm BOV

You may want to bump the WG up to a 50mm pending the turbo size, forget what you said it was. Weld the BOV before the intercooler, and I believe there is a ebay cold side that people have decent luck with, but otherwise, it would be easy to weld it up if you buy a couple bends from summit etc.

[LS1ow]

Are you sure that turbo isn't an internal WG?

This is what I run doe...

JGS 40mm wastegate
31x12x3 A2A IC
JGS 50mm BOV

You may want to bump the WG up to a 50mm pending the turbo size, forget what you said it was. Weld the BOV before the intercooler, and I believe there is a ebay cold side that people have decent luck with, but otherwise, it would be easy to weld it up if you buy a couple bends from summit etc.

cold side will be also be fabbed up most likely. just dont know what side core or what not i need.

[LTb1ow]

Core size is posted above foo, do you want V band clamps off manifolds? (You answer yes to that)

[LS1ow]

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/154/912/berneydidnotread.gif?1318992465



yes, i want V-bands

[LTb1ow]

Nah, you get flanges now.

V bands are a lil down
http://www.stainlessworks.net/products/clamps-and-hangers.html?size=16&mode=list

And more turbo parts pRon
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/


Enjoi.

[LS1ow]

Nah, you get flanges now.

V bands are a lil down
http://www.stainlessworks.net/products/clamps-and-hangers.html?size=16&mode=list

And more turbo parts pRon
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/


Enjoi.

i hate how regular SS flanges and nonsense are so expensive lol

Tubing coming from one of my dads warehouses he used for his electrical company(#CompanySponsered)

i just needa supply the flanges and V-bands and ish.

So rundown...

2- 3 Bolt Manifold flanges(needa find out what size they are)
1- T4 Flange

BOV n wastegate come with there nonsense... so are those 3 the only flanges i really need ? i feel like i need to much more :facepalm: this is for the hotside only... cold side will be worried about later, but i want to get all my flanges n stuff on 1 order.

[LTb1ow]

No, you want V bands for off manifolds to main crossover.

Turbo Flange for turbo to bolt to.
Turbo downpipe V band clamp
BOV V band clamp
WG V band clamp

Pending if you are doing a dumped WG or not, another V band or flange for WG to downpipe.

[LS1ow]

No, you want V bands for off manifolds to main crossover.

Turbo Flange for turbo to bolt to.
Turbo downpipe V band clamp
BOV V band clamp
WG V band clamp

Pending if you are doing a dumped WG or not, another V band or flange for WG to downpipe.

why not just regular flanges with the pipes welded right to em ?

Turbo flange is obvi.
Downpipe slipped my mind
BOV, why not weld into pipe ?
WG, same as above.

[LTb1ow]

why not just regular flanges with the pipes welded right to em ?

Turbo flange is obvi.
Downpipe slipped my mind
BOV, why not weld into pipe ?
WG, same as above.

Because not haXors POS?

You could run the three bolt flange setup, but IMO, if you have the coin, use V bands, will be simpler and no gaskets to blow out. I just know that every time I helped remove stock Y pipe, those three studs were always a pain in the ass to work with. Granted you could easily swap that out later, so no big deal either way.

I know with my WG/BOV they come with a V band flange on em, so you have to use that style clamp.

Its up to you, if you wanna save some money, run cheaper ebay stuff and weld em straight to pipe. Just be careful, if they go.. you either over boost your engine, or over spin your turbo... neither are good.

[LS1ow]

Because not haXors POS?

You could run the three bolt flange setup, but IMO, if you have the coin, use V bands, will be simpler and no gaskets to blow out. I just know that every time I helped remove stock Y pipe, those three studs were always a pain in the ass to work with. Granted you could easily swap that out later, so no big deal either way.

I know with my WG/BOV they come with a V band flange on em, so you have to use that style clamp.

Its up to you, if you wanna save some money, run cheaper ebay stuff and weld em straight to pipe. Just be careful, if they go.. you either over boost your engine, or over spin your turbo... neither are good.

didnt know the WG/BOV came like that, i thought it just came with a the piece you weld into an existing pipe.

so what your saying is instead of just having the hotside pipes bolt to the existing 3 bolt flange on the truck manifold, remove the flange from the manifold and make a V-Band connection ? im not sure if thats what you mean, got any pics ?

[LTb1ow]

http://www.brewspeed.com/ls1tech/manifold%20vband_2.JPG
http://www.brewspeed.com/ls1tech/manifold%20vband.JPG

[LS1ow]

woah.

ok so now i know what you mean. thanks. prob gunna order all teh flanges tonight.


recomendations on what piping to go with ? some say stainless, some say mild steel ? also, sizes? i know i need 3" 2.5" U-bends for hotside, but what guage/wall ?

[LTb1ow]

I am not really to sure what guage, but I would go as thick as you feel comfortable welding, will help retain heat and last longer etc.

I would go SS if you can afford it and weld it, if you go mild steel def plan on having it coated and maybe wrapped.

[LS1ow]

I am not really to sure what guage, but I would go as thick as you feel comfortable welding, will help retain heat and last longer etc.

I would go SS if you can afford it and weld it, if you go mild steel def plan on having it coated and maybe wrapped.

deff want it coated. do not want shiney pipes going all over the bay, rather have flat black evilness.

[LTb1ow]

deff want it coated. do not want shiney pipes going all over the bay, rather have flat black evilness.

Then it shall be a race between us to see who gets there first.

[LS1ow]

Then it shall be a race between us to see who gets there first.

http://t.qkme.me/3oq7re.jpg



so mild steel is the route ?

[LTb1ow]

Hot side will def be flat black or as close as I can get it. All top end stuff will be powdercoated matte black, cold side.. will be pink.

[LS1ow]

cold side will prob be sparkle on mine.

Got an intercooler :)

[LTb1ow]

Don't forget tune, meth kit, and boost controller if you wanna pwn n00bz.

[LS1ow]

Don't forget tune, meth kit, and boost controller if you wanna pwn n00bz.

meth can wait.

boost controller/tune are teh obvii.


Notsureif... using halo bar nitrous kit to spray IC ?

[Jersey Mike]

Depends if you got any half-empty bottle of NOS laying around.

[LTb1ow]

How are you gonna tune the car without meth?

[LS1ow]

thought meth was just an add on ?!


10 gauge 2.5" Stainless/Mild Steel good for the hotside ?

[Featherburner]

thought meth was just an add on ?!


10 gauge 2.5" Stainless/Mild Steel good for the hotside ?10 gauge? are you looking to add ballast?

[S.J.SLEEPER]

thought meth was just an add on ?!


10 gauge 2.5" Stainless/Mild Steel good for the hotside ?

yes. 2.5" from mani to 3.5"merge shaped to fit T4 flange.
16g is fine.
use stainless!!!!

PTE46mm wastegate ....comes with flange you weld onto pipe
jgs blowoff or turbosmart raceport blow off

use meth!!! unless you plan on running race gas.
install nozzle in front of iat... so when meth empty, ecm will retard for higher temp.

[S.J.SLEEPER]

FYI: I have an extra stainless 1/2" thick T4 flange if interested.
also, no need for nos spray bar. just get a quality meth/alky kit.

If your not using a divided exhaust housing, you can grind the divided area out.
$20 shipped & its yours.
I also have some random 1 3/4, 2 1/2, & 3.5" stainless pieces hangin around. may have some intercooler piping & couplers too.. just have to go through my extra box of chet.

[LS1ow]

yes. 2.5" from mani to 3.5"merge shaped to fit T4 flange.
16g is fine.
use stainless!!!!

PTE46mm wastegate ....comes with flange you weld onto pipe
jgs blowoff or turbosmart raceport blow off

use meth!!! unless you plan on running race gas.
install nozzle in front of iat... so when meth empty, ecm will retard for higher temp.

so 2.5 into a 3.5 for the merge? i was lookin at the sticky on tech and i think he used 2.5 threw out. ill find pics...

anytips on how the hell to get 2 pipes into 2 squares ?!

[LS1ow]

"(3) 2.5" Mandrel U-bends for the merge pipes"

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p173/xjjf1015x/Turbo%20Project/P1000422.jpg

[LS1ow]

and the whole needing meth thing is new to me ? i always thought meth was just an add on for more power ?

[coolmanvette75]

Some people use meth to make up for having compression slightly higher then desirable...

[S.J.SLEEPER]

Some people use meth to make up for having compression slightly higher then desirable...

kinda....definitly a must for higher C.R. when running pump gas cuz....
meth cools the intake charge drastically...cooler denser air, means your able to run more timing, and higher boost along with its affect of "higher octane" meaning more hp, and reduced detonation.

meth straight can be used as a power adder and cool intake charge at same time
meth/water mix will mostly only cool the intake charge and add a few points to the octane (not much)

[LTb1ow]

Some people use meth to make up for having compression slightly higher then desirable...

You sound silly.

Even with a 9.0CR, 20#s will put you on the ragged edge of pump gas, and any lower CR will be a complete dog out boost.

Meth evens the field out.

[sweetbmxrider]

Ever stick your hand in washer fluid? Multiple that by 100, welcome to meth.

[LS1ow]

lol so looks like a meth kit is added to the list...

Snow ?

[LS1ow]

boxes are being to gather.

[B4C]

Go here for v-bands cheapest stainless ones ive found
http://www.amazon.com/Clamp-Flange-Turbo-Downpipe-Stainess/dp/B005GS5IJY/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334617584&sr=1-8

[LS1ow]

Go here for v-bands cheapest stainless ones ive found
http://www.amazon.com/Clamp-Flange-Turbo-Downpipe-Stainess/dp/B005GS5IJY/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334617584&sr=1-8

ive heard some bad stuff about godspeed(there turbo kit) so idk about going with them clamp, but ill try find some reviews

[LS1ow]

anyone got some advice on fabbing up the merge ? and how the hell to get round pipe into 2 rectangles on the the T4 !?

[LTb1ow]

Semi decent walkthrough.
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/diy-and-junkyard-turbo-tech/diy-tutorial-making-a-merge-pipe/25/?PHPSESSID=iroscjll6sbgbkqfst9ffmcqn0

You could PM or call these guys...
http://www.modularturbo.com/

Suuposedly, mild steel with flange is $65 shipped, but that was from 2008

Here is a newer link
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/collectors-x-pipes-t-s-100/parallel-2-1-merge-collectors-117/2-1-merge-collector-parallel-2-50-inlets-3-00-outlet-304ss-1511.html?osCsid=2856829f5000976a89be0020a4f119d0

Not a bad price pending how you value your fab time.

[S.J.SLEEPER]

kinda hard to explain.....
measure the width & height of total opening (pretend split in flange wasnt there)
say its 2" x 4"
total linear length is 12" (if you were to add all sides)
12" divided by 3.14 (pie) = 3.82"
so.... you need to have a 3.82" round pipe (that you would heat & form to a square to fit flange)

if your using 2.5" pipes from manifold..that equals 5" pipe, you need to cut wedge of each pipe to merge them togetherforming a 3.82" pipe.
so doing math again you would need to take off a 1.88 linear inches off each pipe at which ever angle the 2 pipes are merging together.

tip: always best to build merge first and work your way back towards manifolds with pipping

[S.J.SLEEPER]

if you havent made one or bought a t4 flange yet, I can fab you up one this weekend out of stainless.

[LS1ow]

kinda hard to explain.....
measure the width & height of total opening (pretend split in flange wasnt there)
say its 2" x 4"
total linear length is 12" (if you were to add all sides)
12" divided by 3.14 (pie) = 3.82"
so.... you need to have a 3.82" round pipe (that you would heat & form to a square to fit flange)

if your using 2.5" pipes from manifold..that equals 5" pipe, you need to cut wedge of each pipe to merge them togetherforming a 3.82" pipe.
so doing math again you would need to take off a 1.88 linear inches off each pipe at which ever angle the 2 pipes are merging together.

tip: always best to build merge first and work your way back towards manifolds with pipping

if you havent made one or bought a t4 flange yet, I can fab you up one this weekend out of stainless.

ya know i was just going to heat and form it into a square but i figured that was not how it should be done lol doesnt seem to hard anymore:mrgreen:

and thanks for the offer but i already got all my stuff lol


so now plan is like this

1. make t4 merge
2. make the v-band connections for the manifolds
3. connect them

[LS1ow]

completely forgot bout the wastegate lol


so correct me if im wrong, WG is on the hotside, BUT it has to be at a point were both pipes go into 1 ? so the WG has to go right after the merge but befor the flange itself ?

[LTb1ow]

completely forgot bout the wastegate lol


so correct me if im wrong, WG is on the hotside, BUT it has to be at a point were both pipes go into 1 ? so the WG has to go right after the merge but befor the flange itself ?

Could run two WG if you want real good control.

Or just weld in a pipe like this.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q182/dfr136/Picture030-1.jpg

[LS1ow]

Could run two WG if you want real good control.

Or just weld in a pipe like this.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q182/dfr136/Picture030-1.jpg

2 WG is for ballers. im ballin on a buget.

[Jersey Mike]

If you can't make it rain, at least make it drizzle a little bit

[LS1ow]

If you can't make it rain, at least make it drizzle a little bit

i already made it Snow performance