'05 CTS-V Custom Supercharger Install

[V]

I have finally started on the install of a centrifugal supercharger on my 2005 CTS-V.

The ONLY supercharger kits available for my car is a top mounted magnacharger which costs $5,500+. Therefore, I decided to do it my own way...

The kit I bought was a used LS1 F-body Powerdyne Scorpion XB1A setup. Most people love to hate on the powerdyne units and mostly because of the failure of the internal belt drive design. However, the XB1a is one of the last models they made before going under and uses a gear drive internals. This particular head unit also came with a ported impeller for better performance.

As I progress with this build I will Update and add pictures and information.

Just for those wondering later on when looking at the pics, all the radiator stuff and other components will be replaced with different size aftermarket ones and moved forward to make the room required. I have it planned out, don't worry.

So far, I have removed the front bumper, air box, cooling fans, radiator, and a/c condenser. I put the f-body mounting bracket in place on the engine and it will bolt up and hold the blower unit, but due to a 1/2" difference in the cts-v alternator bracket vs. the f-body one, the heads of the bolts that mount the blower will hit the alternator pulley. One option was to try to mount an f-body alt and bracket, but the belt sits at a different depth on the 2 cars so that's a pain. I just decided to fabricate a new mounting bracket for the blower itself that moved it 1/2" over to clear the alternator pulley. I measured the stock plate which was 3/8" think aluminum and ordered up a plate slightly larger that I will be cutting out once I have the final shape design. I went with a 6061 aluminum alloy for strength and corrosion resistance. I also had to get/make new spacers to mount the bracket to the engine side. I measured to f-body ones and they were 1" diameter with 7/16" holes in the center. I then ordered a foot of 1" diameter rod of 7075 aluminum alloy(aircraft grade). I will measure the length I need for the spacers and cut them off the rod and drill a center hole.

Here are some random pictures so far...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-17105105.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-17105124.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-17144848.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-17144839.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-23135955.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-23140110.jpg

[RiggsLW81]

but seriously, that is going to be a challenging build and awesome finished product.. i look forward to following your progress on it...best of luck!

[Mark B]

Looks like fun. Good luck with it.

[V]

lol. That paper bag is actually 2 buttered bagels. The engine was still hot when I started working on the tear down, so I put them up there to let the butter melt.

And my ultimate goal is to make over 500rwhp. I may do a cam swap to help with that though. And there will be an intercooler on the setup as well.

[LS1ow]

dear lord please do not scratch any of that carbon fiber !

[V]

dear lord please do not scratch any of that carbon fiber !

haha. I will be taking the carbon fiber stuff off soon and putting it in the backseat.

[LS1ow]

haha. I will be taking the carbon fiber stuff off soon and putting it in the backseat.

bubble wrap it for added saftey

[Blackbirdws6]

What are you doing for a blower inlet? Looks tight.

[S.J.SLEEPER]

you are gonna love the sound of that s/c. straight cut gears in it so its got that coffe grinding whistle...lol
use a gatorback belt & a pulley from robinson racing (they have notches in them for more grip)

p.s. you need a manual tensioner too.

[mc73nova]

Looks like a fun project. I'll be keeping an eye on this one! Good Luck.

[redsoxsstink]

mmmm this car is going to make the most sinister kinds of noises. i love it, better get it done quickly!

[V]

What are you doing for a blower inlet? Looks tight.
In the pic the A/c condenser was still there, that's all moved out now. Once I have the inlet hat on, then I will fit everything in front of it.
I also have yet to find a place to buy low profile inlet hats. I may have to work with what I have or fab one up, which is what I will probably do


p.s. you need a manual tensioner too.


yea i remember, I still have you'r PM all about it too. The only manual one i found so far was on thunder racing, since i need a c5 vette one.
I still have to buy an oil pump and reservoir since ill be running a stand alone oiling system too.

[Blackbirdws6]

Check out the truck inlet hat from procharger. It should work fine for your power level.

[sweetbmxrider]

Who needs an alternator? :lol: Can't wait to see this done man. How much boost are you planning and how much can the bottom end handle?

[1320B4U]

Does a maggy fit under a stock hood anyway?

[Jersey Mike]

Maggie does fit, but it's very common in the V1 crowd... and that's just not Paul's style! :lol:

[V]

Maggies get limited to max HP very quickly, even with 90mm snout mod and all.
With this setup, in the future when I build the motor, I can upgrade to a procharger head unit and keep building HP.

I will be running at 11psi according to current plans.

Bottom end can hold whatever it can, lol. When(not if) it blows, it will get built up.
I'm already collecting parts to build a spare LSx motor on the side to swap in on short notice.

[LS1ow]

Maggies get limited to max HP very quickly, even with 90mm snout mod and all.
With this setup, in the future when I build the motor, I can upgrade to a procharger head unit and keep building HP.

I will be running at 11psi according to current plans.

Bottom end can hold whatever it can, lol. When(not if) it blows, it will get built up.
I'm already collecting parts to build a spare LSx motor on the side to swap in on short notice.

i have a nice short block :)

[S.J.SLEEPER]

11lbs. + meth & a good tune and it will last a long long time.

[qwikz28]

:drool:

[coolmanvette75]

Damn so much for a rematch ;)

Looks great. Cant wait to see this done

[V]

Update:

Today is the second day I actually did anything regarding this car... lol.

I made the new blower bracket this afternoon. Next day I get around to working on the car, I'll actually bolt the blower on it.

Original LS1 F-Body bracket on top, 7"x10" plate of 3/8" thick 6061 Aluminum underneath...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-23140021-1.jpg

Original bracket of left, new larger bracket main shape cut out and edges finished...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-26155354.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-26155417.jpg

New bracket drilled and finished on the left, original bracket on right.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-04-26174230.jpg

[LS1ow]

lookin good paul !

if you ever need a hand just shoot me a txt

[LTb1ow]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdirGTNWH1U

[V]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdirGTNWH1U

^V2... I cannot compete.

[drmrman]

Done yet?





























BUWAHAHAHAHA!

[V]

More mock-up pics...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-04-30161403.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-04-30161354.jpg

[LS1ow]

get that carbon fiber out of harms way !

[V]

Just ordered a handful of metric bolts to finish mounting everything.
Also just ordered a new Griffin aluminum radiator, Vintage Air a/c condensor, Stewart Warner fuel press., oil press., and boost gauges, and low profile electric.

My next purchase(mid May) will include black IC piping, Intercooler, 55lb injectors, and some other small odd and ends.

[Jersey Mike]

Nice! Any success sourcing a spare bumper?

[V]

nah, im gonna try to have the stock one work. I'll look into that more once i buy the intercooler


there is a clearance issue with part of the carbon fiber engine cover and the adjustable belt tensioner. seems a piece will need to be trimmed *cringe*

[S.J.SLEEPER]

Lay down the intercooler in a horizontal position.. looks to me you should have enough room. this way you just have to trim the underside of bumper cover which no one will see.

[V]

well, ran into another clearance issue between the S/C pulley and a bolt for the A/C bracket... solved it by recessing the bolt. Now I have more than enough room.

All hardware that I'm using for the mount is metric, so obviously I cant get Grade 8, so therefore I'm using all 12.9 grade. For comparison, Grade 8 is 150,000 psi tensile strength and 12.9 is 176,000psi. Additionally, Ill be using blue threadlocker since lock washers are useless with grade 12.9 bolts.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-05-04205418.jpg



This weekend, I have to make 2 more spacers. I have a foot long piece of 7075 Aluminum round bar stock. I gotta cut 2 sections, both under 2" long, and then drill them down through the center. Should be fun, especially when I'm making them fit to 1/10,000th of an inch tolerance.

[V]

Made the spacers but ran into yet another setback... lol. Once again just a clearance issue. I have to remake the main bracket to solve it. Not that hard only, 2-3 hours fab time, but I had to order another plate of 6061 Aluminum which should be here tomorrow.

On a side note, I'm pretty sure FedEx lost my new aluminum radiator somewhere in Nevada...

[V]

Radiator finally arrived, and boy does it look sick. lol. Its a Griffin Aluminum 2 row radiator. Yes, it has a little less surface area than stock but compared to the single row, 1" wide core of the stock rad, its is a huge improvement.
Next step is to make new mounting brackets to put it exactly where I need it to go now.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-05-10182121.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-05-10182113.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

Dats nice

[V]

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-05-10223155.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-05-10223601.jpg

[LS1ow]

were ya order your gauges from paul ?

[WildBillyT]

Is that single fan going to pull enough cfm for your engine?

[Featherburner]

Is that single fan going to push enough cfm for your engine?fixed.

[V]

Is that single fan going to pull enough cfm for your engine?

That pusher fan is replacing one of the dual fans(auxiliary) I had to eliminate from behind the rad. The main stock cooling fan will still be intact behind the rad on the left side.

[V]

were ya order your gauges from paul ?

I got them from Summit racing.

[V]

...ran into yet another setback... lol. Once again just a clearance issue. I have to remake the main bracket to solve it. Not that hard only, 2-3 hours fab time, but I had to order another plate of 6061 Aluminum.

Finally got a night free to work on this. I made the new bracket and clearance issue is now solved. Also added in an idler pulley to the bracket in order to route the belt better.

Who knows when I'll get around to doing more work on this though... lol

[V]

wow this is taking forever haha,

i guess i should work on it more huh? Today I fished all the spacers and whatnot in order to mount the head unit. I just have to put it on the car now and then run the I/C piping.

looks pretty huh?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-19163104.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-19163433.jpg

[NHRABill]

Looks great, that attention to small things like making a bracket fit perfect will eliminate the nagging issues down the road, like belt rubbing under full load. Looking forward to seeing the completed project.

[Blackbirdws6]

Shouldn't see any bracket flex there. Looks nice.

[V]

I remember in a thread I made about a year ago, I mentioned possibly making my own bracket and stuff, and my fabrication skills and tooling available was brought up.... I think that question was answered now, lol.


The main plate is 3/8" 6061 aluminum, same thickness as the stock one, I also had to relocate 2 bolts further out because it was cause interference issues with where the alternator pulley will sit. To relocate them, I had to make that smaller bracket too.

The cylinder spacers are made out of 3/4" 7075 Aluminum rod that I cut and drilled to match the original ones. All measurements are down to .001"

The spacers that hold this all to the engine are made out of 1" 7075 aluminum rod I also cut and drilled. The ones that came with the kit were for an f-body so I was only able to use one of the 3 original ones.

All hardware is grade 8, the metric hardware which attaches this to the engine is all 12.9 grade.

Since I didn't want the idler pulley putting any stress on the bolt going into the s/c headunit, I put a 3/8-16 stud into the headunit, then a measured spacer, followed by a coupling nut. that nut tightens down onto the stud, providing the proper standoff, and then the idler pulley bolt screws into the coupling nut and locks the pulley down to the main plate itself.

The idler is a timing pulley for a ford 2.0L engine. Looks better on this application I think. I needed a idler with an outer diameter under 2" and this has a 1.8" diameter. The backside of the belt will ride on this and the belt will go on the inside of the bracket(not near that one close bolt head).



Now I just have to put this in place and then start building/putting the car back together from the front of the engine forward. I still have to make the custom a/c line ends, lower rad support, trim factory fan setup, layout I/C piping, buy I/C, and sleeve my fuse box for an I/C pipe.(gonna be interesting)... Then injectors and load it on my trailer and drag it off to get tuned...

[94Z28BLK]

just read this whole thread, had no idea you were doing this Paul. It looks amazing from what we've seen in the few pictures you have posted. I hope you found some time to work on it this weekend. Cant wait to see the final product and watch/hear it cruise around Bergen County.

[edpontiac91]

I am very impressed with with way this has turned out, since you are building this from SCRATCH without blue prints or anything else to guide you along. Good luck with it working the way you hope it performs.

[V]

Took some time to do a little more work on it today.
I mounted the head unit to the car and made sure I had clearance on everything. It looks great and fits just right.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24144800.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24144754.jpg



I then started working on the routing for the I/C piping. I cut 2 holes to run the pipes out f the engine compartment. But before I could do that, on the passenger side, the main fuse box was in the way. To solve that issue I had previously planned to sleeve the lower corner of the box which was just dead space. I took some pics so the concept should be easy to understand. Now I just have to epoxy the sleeve in place and touch up the aluminum with black spray paint. The I/C pipe will slip through the sleeve. I have to order some new I/C pipes in black and some 3" silicone couplers tonight.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24154348.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24155320.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24161547.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24161551.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-06-24161739.jpg

[Mike]

Will the torque cause contact between the piping and the sleeve under throttle/ engine braking?

[V]

Will the torque cause contact between the piping and the sleeve under throttle/ engine braking?


I don't think that will be a concern. The sleeve is 3.5", I/C pipe is 3", plus there will be a silicone coupler after it comes out of the sleeve and then another one when it enters the throttle body. Most torque should be absorbed by those. Anything else it will have enough room to move around some.

[V]

I guess its time for an update....

Got the right size belt on it finally.
I have to pull the headunit off one last time to put blue locktite on everything.
Intercooler arrives tomorrow, so then i can finish up running all those pipes.
I have to mount the front and rear fans too in addition to finding radiator hoses in a custom length.
I still need to modify the impact bumper in the middle and throw the front bumper cover back on.
..oh, I gotta run oil lines too and buy a set of injectors


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-11163001.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-11162545.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-11163916.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-11163626.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-11163641.jpg

[WildBillyT]

Looking good, man! Nice work.

[Jersey Mike]

Crap. You're close. You weren't kidding!

[sweetbmxrider]

In4Paulfinishingaproject!!!!

[redsoxsstink]

dam, i love seeing a project come together. seems like you really put your mind to and it are getting the job done. nice work

[V]

Intercooler arrived, brackets for it are fabbed and its mocked up in place.
Impact bumper is now modified as well.

Now I'm ordering a few silicone couplers and that should complete the I/C piping.

12" electric fan is too big to fit up front, I'll be switching to an 8" one that pushes more cfm than the 12" anyway.

[Blackbirdws6]

This is getting close. Very nice.

[Jersey Mike]

I dig the Cruze, but will your next visit be in a S/C Cadilllac?

[edpontiac91]

How are you going to get a computer to read all the new specs, such as timing-boost control-fuel control-top end speed-etc.?

[Mike]

How are you going to get a computer to read all the new specs, such as timing-boost control-fuel control-top end speed-etc.?

boost control can be done isolated from the cars computer, and fueling,timing and the others can be done with his current software (at least i think i remember paul buying HPtuners) the ls1 computer is amazing at what you can force it to do.. lol

[V]

How are you going to get a computer to read all the new specs, such as timing-boost control-fuel control-top end speed-etc.?

The same way any car works with a supercharger added, it gets tuned.

[V]

Intercooler mocked up, some changes have been made since and the cut out section of the impact bumper will be replaced by some aluminum stock once everything is in place.

The 12" electric fan was sent back to Summit, it was said to flow 950cfm, a new fan an 8" one, has been ordered, which is said to flow 2,100cfm. So works out for the better.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-13131605.jpg

[LTb1ow]

What kinda 8inch fan pushes that much cfm?

[V]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19128

Even if it isn't the correct cfm listed, its still just the auxiliary and will be fine.
Worst case scenario, I have to add a second 8" next to it.

edit, just checked perma-cools website, it lists the fan at 2400 cfm

[LTb1ow]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19128

Even if it isn't the correct cfm listed, its still just the auxiliary and will be fine.
Worst case scenario, I have to add a second 8" next to it.

edit, just checked perma-cools website, it lists the fan at 2400 cfm

Thats interesting, def would love to use a pair of smaller ones like that, let me know how well that little guy does in your setup.

[sweetbmxrider]

I wonder what kind of amperage that thing pulls on start up then.

[V]

I wonder what kind of amperage that thing pulls on start up then.


It states that it requires a 30amp relay for start up.

[V]

My next hurdle to overcome is figuring out the oil return line.

I've seen how others have done it for turbo LSx setups so I have a good idea. However drilling and tapping the pan is involved and its very tight down there. If I get a scavenger pump, I could return to the oil fill or tap a valve cover.

[LS1ow]

that thing is LOW !

[V]

LOL, it will be mounted higher. As you can see the brackets that i had made are just clamped in place. With some more trimming of the bumperettes, it'll be raised up.

[Mike]

My next hurdle to overcome is figuring out the oil return line.

I've seen how others have done it for turbo LSx setups so I have a good idea. However drilling and tapping the pan is involved and its very tight down there. If I get a scavenger pump, I could return to the oil fill or tap a valve cover.

Scavenger pump sounds scary. Any electrical issues and you lose oiling.

[V]

Scavenger pump sounds scary. Any electrical issues and you lose oiling.

Exactly. lol. There's no reason I can't do just the normal gravity drain, its not like the headunit is too low or anything. I basically know I'll end up welding/tapping a fitting to the oil pan. Just NOT looking forward to it.


Also, I could possibly have a bung welded into the front timing cover. That would be easier to get off than the pan.

[Mike]

What about the fitting that goes in between the pan and drain plug?

[V]

What about the fitting that goes in between the pan and drain plug?

Well being that its a gravity drain, I need for the oil to enter the motor at a level higher than the pans standing oil level. If I tried putting it in the pan through the drain plug opening or even the low oil/oil temp sensor holes, it may not drain properly and is known to cause big issues with turbo systems

[Mike]

Hmm ok. Cut and weld time. Anything to avoid letting the electrical system control it

[V]

I looked at the timing cover tonight. It's tight, no real room to put a fitting that I could find yet. The oil pan is a whole different set of issues to get to. In order to remove the Pan, the motor needs to come out or the engine cradle dropped a decent amount. This is not an fbody, so dropping the cradle isnt as simple. I doubt I could even get a drill in place the drill then tap a hole with the pan still on the motor.

Time for some more problem solving thinking....

Edit: looks like i'll be dropping the cradle. That shall take a whole day if not more, at the rate I work on the car lol.

also, perhaps I'll just buy another cts-v oil pan, have a bung welded on that and then drop the old one and right away put the new one in. That way it wont be apart for long, while Id forget how to put it back together. Then I can sell my old one and the new windage tray/pickup tube.

[LTb1ow]

No room for something like this?
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7029/dcp1867yf1.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/6488/dcp1870pv9.jpg

[V]

That's how much room I have, not really enough. Due to the vette/cts-v balancer, its tight up close to the block. Best bet would be to tap the pan, either right at the bottom front , or the side. The front I could possibly drill/tap with the pan still on the engine, the side no, Id have to pull it. Im gonna check out a bunch of reviews for the turbo werx pump... might be the most feasible option.




http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-17153244.jpg

[WildBillyT]

Maybe get a bung, flared steel line, a tube nut, and install rubber hose downstream a little? Have it come straight out and then 90*.

This is a pic of a trans teardown and is filthy, but kind of what I mean:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/50110d1219245806-1966-transmission-cooler-lines-010.jpg

[V]

Well... the other issue is that to get the drain line just TO that area on the timing cover, I'd have to run the drain line line down, under the supercharger, than back up 1-2 inches, so it totally negates the use of a gravity drain.

Its either into the pan, or a scavenge pump.

Edit: I think Ive decided to go with the turbowerx pump. its $250 or $400 depending on the model. For my application, even the 250 buck one will work great. I could not find any reports of obscure Turbowrex pump failures. All reviews come up as very positive again and again. People use them to replace the included pumps in STS turbo kits. I can also wire up and alarm to the pump line to alert me if anything should happen and the oil stops flowing. Then I'll just have the return go up into the driver side valve cover after putting a fitting into that.

heres the $400 one...
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=439&cat_key=91&prodname=Turbowerx+Exa+Pump+Electric+Oil+Scavenge+ Pump



and heres a current pic too...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-17153358.jpg

[V]

Update: Today I pulled everything back off so I could apply blue thread lock on the main bolts and mount everything for the final time. I also reassembled the fuse box since it had been all apart since I had to sleeve the bottom of it. I also setup all the engine bay Intercooler piping. Air intake pipes are simple, I have them figured out all just gonna be one of the last things installed.

Tomorrow my custom radiator support will go into place and the Griffin aluminum radiator and Vintage Air condenser will get installed. I'll also then be able to mount the rear fan and the 8" fan up front. If I have time I'll hang the Intercooler and complete the rest of the piping.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-18172119.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-18180816.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-18191918.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-18192337.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

You said you found someone to make you custom ac lines, right?

[V]

You said you found someone to make you custom ac lines, right?

not yet really, but i have been told of a few places. thats a concern for the future.

[NJ Torque]

I know buy-rite in South Plainfeild will make custom AC lines.

[V]

Got the radiator, condenser, fan and Intercooler mounted. IC will be turned around at final fitting to have the "TRE" logo on the backside.
I still need to install some aluminum angle stock as a brace across the front where the impact bumper was cut out.

Front bumper cover is just placed on and not secured anywhere yet.

I have to do some trimming at the bottom but overall it fits a lot better than I expected. The lower oem chrome mesh cts-v grille will not be used.

I have to also get the stock lower black air deflector/spoiler/lip that mounts under the bumper. That will hide the bottom of the IC while it'll still get air flow from underneath.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-20145208.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-20145202.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-20150129.jpg

[LS1ow]

wow.

[JW]

How much money would you est. into this project?

JW :D

[V]

How much money would you est. into this project?

JW :D


At this point, I'd say I'm around 3500 into it.
I could make probably $500 back by selling off stuff I removed/don't need, but for now I'm gonna hold onto all stock parts considering that with a few hours work, everything could be put back to stock.
I figure I have another 1000-1500 I still need to spend.

To add to that.. a Magnacharger system would have cost over $6,000 start to finish. So I'm still under that amount.

[JW]

Cool to know Paul, maybe I will keep you in mind if I ever want to play around with custom stuff.

JW :D

[sweetbmxrider]

Looks awesome. What about painting the intercooler black? I know you like sneaky. Also, why can't you use the lower mesh? To me, that is the V look. I would try to make it work personally. Help keep that stock appearance.

[Jersey Mike]

Second the lower grille. What's left to purchase?

[townsend]

dude that is beautiful

[maroman88]

Looks awesome. What about painting the intercooler black? I know you like sneaky. Also, why can't you use the lower mesh? To me, that is the V look. I would try to make it work personally. Help keep that stock appearance.

third that

[V]

the lower grille frame is almost 2" thick and sets back deeper into the opening. The I/C is basically right up against the bumper cover up top and the two lower out tabs had to be removed for clearance. Yes id like to be able to run the grille too, but at this point I'm happy with the cover being on and only unseen areas needing to be cut.



Here is a pic of the material i had to cut...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-07-20174240.jpg



Blue couplers will be replaced with black silicone ones, I was hoping I could get away with those but they are too visible. Also, on the sides of the I/C, I will be fabricating ducting to put the outer airflow into the rad behind it.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-07-20174501.jpg

[V]

What's left to purchase?

turbowerx oil pump and lines
injectors
racetronix fuel pump and hotwire kit
Tuning
a/c lines

[SilverDropTop]

Looks badass. Awesome work as usual.

[sweetbmxrider]

I know that on the front is an aux fan but I would be concerned with how far away it is from the radiator. Could just be the picture angle.

[Blackbirdws6]

Yea...this is looking pretty good. Looking forward to seeing this done. As mentioned, I would try to get a grill in there as well.

[V]

front fan is flush up against the condenser which is up against the rad. I will be making an aluminum shroud for the top to direct all the airflow where I want it to go.

[V]

Happy? lol

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-07-23124351.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/2012-07-23124344.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Yes!!!

[LTb1ow]

That intake boot... make it go away. :lol:

[V]

That intake boot... make it go away. :lol:

don't worry, a black one was ordered last night. It was out of stock for the longest time but now finally available.

[sweetbmxrider]

Dude it looks so much better. With the black boots, it will look real clean.

[Mark B]

Awesome. Nuff Said.

[Jersey Mike]

For further discretion, remove the front plate. Let them figure that out after you've past them :D

[maroman88]

MUCH better! looks amazing

[greenformula92]

Looks good man. hope to see this thing in person eventually

[V]

did a few little things. Waiting on the oil return pump until Friday. Tomorrow i'm taking the valve cover and bung to be welded.

new couplers came in today.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-25190556.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-25190607.jpg




Lower grille mesh is just out for fitting purposes. It will be getting epoxied back into the outer frame. I had to make tabs to hold the shell in place without the large back piece.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-25190525.jpg

[Mike]

Only could be better if the intercooler was black. But, since the plates and the sound will give it away anyway, screw it

[LTb1ow]

And maybe get that aluminum piece right after the filter painted/coated black?

[greenformula92]

I doubt Paul is going for the sleeper look lol

[WildBillyT]

I doubt Paul is going for the sleeper look lol

Yeah, plates kind of kill that right away. LOL.

[V]

And maybe get that aluminum piece right after the filter painted/coated black?

yea, I only bought black 3" piping and that inlet is all 3.5" so I just used what I had to mock it up. I'm still changing the air inlet slightly as I order more stuff.


And yea, the sleeper look isn't my thing with this car. lol, Either you know what it is by the "v" badge and the plates or your an idiot.

[methdmx]

For further discretion, remove the front plate. Let them figure that out after you've past them :D

^ This haha. Awesome car man. I would love to see it in person. I'll even give you a laugh and go for a run lol. Is the air filter even functional tucked all the way up where it is?

[V]

Is the air filter even functional tucked all the way up where it is?

why wouldn't it be functional? it takes in air, not much else needs to be done






I finally got back my valve cover with the bung welded in. The oil scavenger pump will pump the oil from the supercharger drain up into there so I wont have to worry about gravity. I'm going to work on it now and mount the pump.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-31113800.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-31114020.jpg

[V]

Got the pump mounted and all the return lines ran. Instead of barbed fittings and hose clamps which I had, I decided to change over to all -8AN stuff with steel braided line. The return snakes around to the back of the engine and is completely hidden under the engine cover. Tomorrow I'll connect the oil feed line(with aftermarket gauge sender in place) and hopefully hook up the air intake(waiting on delivery of the 3.5" 90degree elbow) Then its a matter of attaching the lower rad hose, and connecting the TB coolant line/overflow line. Oh and wire the oil return pump up. Then all IC pipes get reconnected and front Bumper goes on.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-31174729.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-31174810.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-31175440.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-07-31175446.jpg

[Blackbirdws6]

Very slick. So first start up in a few days?

[greenformula92]

We are going to need a video of that first start

[Italian Stallion]

this is awesome..really nice man

[townsend]

dude, i cant wait to see/hear this thing

[V]

One issue I noticed while doing my constant checks on everything was that I don't like the current locations of the oil lines going into/coming out of the supercharger.

I know that the supercharger was fully functioning in its current configuration and orientation but I do not feel comfortable running it now that way. Currently the oil feed is underneath and uses the spray nozzle to shoot oil up at the gears, and then the current drain location is higher up so there would be an excess amount of oil sitting in the supercharger. That also means the gears would be spinning in a bath of oil, not just sprayed with oil like its designed to be. That would result in frothy oil I'd think. To fix this, I'll be moving the oil inlet nozzle to the hole up top and the drain fitting will be relocated to the lower position. That should take care of it and all I have to do is redo the -8AN line that goes from the S/C to the pump. Luckily I still have enough leftover length. I'm gonna buy a new -4 AN line to run from the feed off the engine to the S/C.

I did notice this a while back and figured I'd address it at a later date, well now is that time. No big deal but just one of those things that come up with full custom setups.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/781bbe7c.jpg

[V]

Oil inlet and drain have been relocated to the alternate positions. Now the nozzle is at top, and drain at the lowest point, all is well now.

I had to have some hose and fittings sent overnight by Summit.
My current goal is to start the car Saturday/Sunday.
And then contact the tuner Monday morning to make an appointment for the dyno tune. However, I have an obligation from the 8th to 25th and I won't be around so the tune will have to wait until the 27th at least.

[Mark B]

i won't be around so the tune will have to wait until the 27th at least.


Nooooooooooo!!!!!!!!

[V]

Getting closer....
Radiator shrouds are done
all I/C piping is connected
Lower mesh grille has been epoxied in place
Front bumper ready to be bolted on and attached for good

Radiator/coolant hoses need to be connected along with vacuum hoses.
oil pump wiring still needs to be done too
lower fan mount needs to be fabricated and power steering cooler remounted

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/CTS-V/2012-08-04171127.jpg

[Tru2Chevy]

Looking great Paul!

- Justin

[V]

I emailed Race Proven Motorsports in DE about dyno tuning(they did my '01 SS back in 2010). The said they only need 1-2 days prior notice and they can do the tune while I wait. (I'll be trailering it down) They also suggested 60lb injectors to leave room for future upgrades.

So once I get back from my 2.5 weeks of training with the National Guard(tomorrow-aug25th) I'll then finish up the odd and ends in a day or two and get this thing on the trailer. Hopefully by Sept 1st it should be on the road.

[LTb1ow]

So, off for tuning soon? :nod:

[V]

injectors and pump were ordered last week. should be delivered by now. i get home tonight. do install Monday and finish stuff up. i contacted the tuner 3 weeks ago already. they just need like 2 days prior notice.

[sweetbmxrider]

Charge your video camera batteries :nod:

[drmrman]

Hope you have the belt routed so the supercharger spins in the right direction :D

[V]

Hope you have the belt routed so the supercharger spins in the right direction :D


The setup mirrors the stock LS1 f body setup so everything is in the same corresponding locations ;-)


p.s. let me know when you wanna come get those seats

[V]

Possible 1st start up later today....
It will just be at idle due to stock tune and stock injectors.
I only need to verify proper belt tracing and no leaks in the coolant system.

If that all goes well, the new injectors and fuel pump will go in tomorrow/Thursday and I'll contact the tuner about bringing the car there on Monday or Tuesday.

[sweetbmxrider]

Monday is Labor Day FYI

In for first start vid :)

[Blackbirdws6]

Sweet!

[Jersey Mike]

:fidget: ? Yeah.

[V]

Chased a few gremlins in order to fire it up for the first time... Ignition powered on, but no crank at all.

The Driver Information Center was throwing air bag codes, a/c codes, theft security system codes, no gauge info, no outside air temp display, etc etc...

Turned out to be a poor connection in the fuse box that I had taken apart. I went over it all again and solved all those issues.

The oil scavenger pump will be wired up to the fuel pump trigger but through the new racetronix hotwire kit. Since I don't have the harness yet(coming tomorrow) I just jumped the oil pump trigger wire to the battery as you'll see in the video.

The sound is not as high pitched in person as it comes across in the video.

All I need to do now are gauges, injectors, and fuel pump, then time for the tune at RPM in Delaware next week.



I pulled it out of the garage and let it get up to temp to check for leaks and to verify that the fans work and wouldn't overheat. I then washed it since it was filthy from sitting almost 5 months.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/1a868ca4.jpg

[V]

Click for start up video.
turn down speakers, its a little high pitch lol

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/th_51130982.jpg (http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/?action=view&current=51130982.mp4)

[coolmanvette75]

Sounds sweet Paul! Great job man

[sweetbmxrider]

Bad ****ing ass, Paul! :drool:

My ears are ringing :lol:

[Blackbirdws6]

Wow that is a loud head unit. Sounds great and congrats.

[greenformula92]

Sounds great Paul. Nice work

[maroman88]

LIKE

[V]

Well.... project has come to a complete standstill...

Headunit is a piece of crap. Its going in the trash. It was producing 0 boost, when i popped off the pipes to check, I found Oil all in the I/C pipes(just up until the downward bend to the intercooler- no oil past that bend)
the seal is leaking oil into the volute chamber, yet i had new seals installed 6 months ago, go figure.
Also there are small chunks of the outside edges of the impeller missing. it doesnt look like they broke off but that they had been that way for a while.
The impeller wont even come off the shaft so I can check the seals. Im just very dissapointed in my overall purchase of the headunit considering that was the only real piece i ended up keeping and using out of the used kit i bought.

Later today I'm just setting the car up with the stock belt configuration so I can at least drive the car like normal for the time being. The Intercooler and custom rad setup will all remain in the car to be used with the new headunit. Since its still a stock engine, Im just gonna go for a procharger d1sc, no need for an F1. And the oil supply/return pump will now be up for sale. I'll buy the new supercharger in a few days once I relax a little and bring myself to spend the money....

[sweetbmxrider]

:jaw drop:

[S.J.SLEEPER]

Who did the seals? Impeller shouldnt have any chips on it or wear on edges. That was a new impeller that was modded for higher flow/psi. Wondering if shop you used for seals gave you someone elses unit or parts.

[V]

i sent it to supercharger rebuilds in TX, they supposedly only did the oil seals. The impeller looks to be exactly the same one that was in there, which was custom ported.
when i opened it up today is when i noticed the chunks missing. i'll post a pic in a bit.

[V]

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/131e40e9.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/23d03c26.jpg



I guess I now learned my lesson to always buy new

[Blackbirdws6]

Sorry to hear that Paul. I'm sure the D1SC will work well but sucks to spend the money.

[V]

As of this moment I'm seriously considering going back to stock and forgetting all about it.

If i do the D1SC or even the cheaper P1SC, I have to do a whole new bracket design, maybe add a crank pulley for a separate blower belt etc etc.
Almost not worth it...

[WildBillyT]

Can't send it back for repairs?

[V]

the rebuild company doesn't warranty their work. and at this point it would need at least 1300 in repairs...

for a grand more, I can get a equivalent P1SC procharger, and then i can sell off the oil pump for 250 or so...

[WildBillyT]

the rebuild company doesn't warranty their work. and at this point it would need at least 1300 in repairs...

for a grand more, I can get a equivalent P1SC procharger, and then i can sell off the oil pump for 250 or so...

Gotcha.

If you just bought the oil pump, fuel hotwire, etc can't you return it for all your money?

[V]

Gotcha.

If you just bought the oil pump, fuel hotwire, etc can't you return it for all your money?

oil pump is now "used", can't really return that as new. The injectors and hotwire kit have not arrived yet so those I could send back if i decide to go back to stock, otherwise i'd still need those with any supercharger. The procharger are at least self contained oiling so that is more simple.

[LTb1ow]

Those chunks missing on the outer edge look too smooth for a failure, looks like previous crack/failure smoothed out.

Can you just grab some seals, and new wheel?

[V]

id need a new impeller shaft too it seems. between a new wheel shaft seals bearings etc, im looking at that 1300


*Edit, just got the response on repair costs from the rebuild company...

"To replace bearings, seals, labor and rtn s/h is $480.
Add $375 for an impeller, and add $325 for an impeller shaft, so worst
case would be $1180..."

So then figure 30 or so for shipping to TX... and that's $1,210... ( and still wont be any warranty)

[BonzoHansen]

that sucks, Paul.

I guess I now learned my lesson to always buy new
:nod: yup, gotta pay baller prices to be a baller. cheap-fast-reliable, pick 2.

[The_Bishop]

That is mountainous pile of suck.

[V]

my options are:
rebuild powerdyne $1200 and cross my fingers
procharger p1sc $2400(would need all new brackets made too)
go back to stock and sell off parts already installed/used

Due to the fact im considering engagement before the new year, money IS a factor currently. Up until this point i was ahead by doing a custom install but a rebuild would put me at what a magnacharger would have cost.

Also im thinking in a year or so, I may made in the V for a V2. So stock will be ok for now...


im gonna take my time making the decision.

[coolmanvette75]

This really sucks Paul. In my personal opinion, you should keep at it. You have too much time in this thing to warrent no results at all. If it were me I would do what it takes to make it right

[sweetbmxrider]

In all seriousness, you should look at how much you have in it, how much you can get back by selling it all, how much you'll lose, and how much to finish it. With the engagement, I think I'd keep the toy as cheap and reliable as possible.

This really sucks Paul. In my personal opinion, you should keep at it. You have too much time in this thing to warrent no results at all. If it were me I would do what it takes to make it right

Highschool thought process....epic

[BonzoHansen]

You need new plates

[V]

i'm going to try to fully disassemble the SC this weekend and see if i can see the exact problem. seals are under 100 and an impeller is 325-375 so if i can keep the repairs under $500, ill go for it and fix it myself.

[S.J.SLEEPER]

I can't see a reason why it wouldn't make boost even with the chips in impeller. Did you check to see if bypass valve is stuck open?
As for the chips & seals leaking, that is complete b.s. that the company that did the work won't do something for you. You've documented the entire build here. that proves s/c was never ran since rebuild. I would pursue some sort of action with them. And I find it hard to believe chips in impeller were there when the recieved it and they didn't notify you that they were there. That tells me they did the damage to impeller when pulling it off to replace seals (if they even did replace seals) Those seals shouldnt be leaking already.

When I had the s/c, I had 11psi after the intercooler and no oil in my pipes. I think they did you dirty.
Dont give up on build, you have alot of time into it, and if you do the work your self on the s/c it won't be that hurtful on your pocket.

[greenformula92]

Paul I would find someone more local to rebuild it with some sort of warranty, or buy the parts and R&R it yourself

[V]

I only found one source for an impeller and 2 for the seals.

[NJ Torque]

Wow...

[qwikz28]

Oy oy oy. :(

[V]

Tear down of the SC is complete...

I need an impeller, impeller shaft seal, and 1 impeller shaft bearing(bearing caging is broke so would soon fail) The seal that was installed was just junk. I found a supplier of a better designed one. That should be about $40. The replacement bearing may be $50-100, and the impeller will be around $400.

After seeing how simple it is to tear down a SC unit, there is NO way i'd ever send it out again for any repairs. So easy to do at home.

[LTb1ow]

Sounds like your going ahead with teh rebuild?

[V]

well for now yea. i just refuse to spend 1200 on it, especially for someone's labor rate.

[sweetbmxrider]

Some faith in BLOWN V has been restored!

[Mark B]

All is right in the world.

[qwikz28]

What kind of time frame are we looking at, Paul?

[V]

i can order the parts today or tomorrow and get it all back together by the end of next week




Edit: Oil seal has been ordered, and just waiting on the invoice for the bearings and impeller so I can send payment for those.

Edit#2: All parts have now been ordered and paid for.


Here are some pics... a very simple mechanical device....

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/db59b960.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/e3f59108.jpg

[V]

project is officially dead.

Going back to stock in the near future.

new impeller and bearings came, got the bearings in fine, but the impeller got stuck halfway on and cracked while trying to get it back off, then took another hour to get the damaged impeller off, and swap the old one back on, but now it seems the impeller shaft is bent.

I am DONE with this project.

Parts will be sold off to get back at least half of what I have invested.

[Jersey Mike]

project is officially dead.

Going back to stock in the near future.

new impeller and bearings came, got the bearings in fine, but the impeller got stuck halfway on and cracked while trying to get it back off, then took another hour to get the damaged impeller off, and swap the old one back on, but now it seems the impeller shaft is bent.

I am DONE with this project.

Parts will be sold off to get back at least half of what I have invested.

That's really rough. Sorry, man. Hopefully everything sells quickly.
You think the integrity of the impeller was jeopardized from being ported? No wonder Powerdyne got a bad rap.

[V]

You think the integrity of the impeller was jeopardized from being ported? No wonder Powerdyne got a bad rap.

it was a brand new billet impeller, custom made for one seller. only type/version available
powerdyne parts were all fine, they got a bad rap due to people over-boosting the belt driven units.

[The_Bishop]

That sucks, V.

[sweetbmxrider]

This saddens me.

[Blackbirdws6]

Man that sucks...

[WSex]

id say dont quit it will be worth it in the end and accomplished. but idk where youre standing (financially) so good luck with everything.

[Mike]

id say dont quit it will be worth it in the end and accomplished. but idk where youre standing (financially) so good luck with everything.

Start funding it if that's your feeling

[WSex]

Start funding it if that's your feeling

id personally like to see this monster rip. put up a paypal account for the funding.
i bet every one here gives a bum on the street a dollar or two so he can do whatever he wants. id donate a dollar or too now all we need is about 1000 more members.

[V]

I can afford repairs, that's not it. Its just that it isn't worth it beyond the point I've reached. Repairs would be at least $800+. The point was to do this all for less than any kit(for an average car).

Im at the point of diminishing returns, time to cut my losses and bail.

The car will still beat most of your cars on the highway...

My plans now are to go back to stock.
The lease on my Cruze is up in 18 months... when I turn that in, I'll trade this V in for a '09+ V.
Problem solved then.

[Mike]

I can afford repairs, that's not it. Its just that it isn't worth it beyond the point I've reached. Repairs would be at least $800+. The point was to do this all for less than any kit(for an average car).

Im at the point of diminishing returns, time to cut my losses and bail.

The car will still beat most of your cars on the highway...

My plans now are to go back to stock.
The lease on my Cruze is up in 18 months... when I turn that in, I'll trade this V in for a '09+ V.
Problem solved then.

was that really necessary? or correct?

[V]

i said the car, not me. just saying the car isn't slow where it needs a power adder.

[WSex]

The car will still beat most of your cars on the highway...


by beat you mean you will get to the speedlimit faster and stay there right?

[LTb1ow]

This sucks to read Paul, sorry I can't use the stuff you got on my build.

[rickyd13]

you know your going to regret this down the road even if you get a gen II theres nothing really special yours would have been a one of a kind thing

[drmrman]

quiter