My T56 Rebuild

[BoostedTurd]

Just posting this to show it really isn't all that difficult to rebuild these transmissions if you have patience and organization skills.
My car was not engaging third gear and fourth gear ground, as well as reverse popped out.

Here's when I took the trans out of the car
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/600512_425530560800677_1131935858_n.jpg

With all the parts removed from the tail housing. (Only basic tools required, as well as a small punch for the roll pins, and a puller)
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/599109_425571787463221_902487444_n.jpg


Found these bad boys stuck to the magnets. (Gotta love these stamped synchro keys!)
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/580087_425572204129846_441115100_n.jpg

New 1-2, and 3-4 synchronizer assemblies. As well as all the blocker rings.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/486599_433865713300495_1616966368_n.jpg

All the new parts installed while I was awaiting the shift fork pads
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/295288_434992513187815_1754383315_n.jpg

As far as it popping out of third gear and not engaging, there was major wear on the 3/4 aluminum shift fork. You can see how deep it was worn down where the shift fork gate pieces went in. Not only was this an issue, but because of it all the teeth were sheared right off the blocker ring for 3rd. All replaced and I purchased the upgraded steel 3-4 shift fork.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj126/Hondamaster5505/20120722_135353.jpg


And the reverse popping out was simply worn teeth on the outer synchro hub. Since it is a one-direction synchro, I simply switched the hub around.

Car is back on the road and shifting great!
:wink:

[LTb1ow]

True test will be how it holds up to the LT1 :lol:

[MyFirstZ]

Makes me wanna rebuild mine.

Nice job

[coolmanvette75]

Sweet. Whose kit did you use?

[MyFirstZ]

If I don't do new heads Il do my trans possibly

How long did it take you ?

[BoostedTurd]

I didn't use a kit, I buy the parts individually as I need them. I purchased them from Tick Performance.
If you have the transmission out and the parts on hand, you can easily have it done in a day. Where it gets tricky is if you're replacing the bearings. That's when you get into having to use shims and such for proper clearances. I left the bearings alone because they were all in good shape and don't generally go bad at only 95k miles, and they were all well lubed and looked new. (Not sloppy) Some may advise against this but me personally, I have no issues with it. I replace what's broken with upgraded parts.

[MyFirstZ]

Ahh a lot of tick parts that you may have replaced come from a place up here called rockland standard gear. Only reason I asked.

I know they will do a full blue printed rebuild for way more then I want to spend. But I'd rather just upgrade what needs it

[BoostedTurd]

That's how I feel. Get all new blocker rings, billet synchro keys, steel 3-4 shift fork, etc. I advise against bronze shift fork pads. I haven't had a problem with the plastic ones and the bronze actually have some negatives to them from what I read.

I used to go to Rockland until I found out Tick was cheaper. And the Tick parts ship from North Carolina. But yes I have been to Rockland before, nice place.

[BoostedTurd]

UPDATE:

Transmission has been holding up great. Made the 500 mile trip flawlessly and been beating on her since!

[MyFirstZ]

Good to hear!

Reperked my desire to rebuild mine.

[BoostedTurd]

Yeah shes doing well!