It's not porting...

[The_Bishop]

It's... weight reduction. I'm lightening my non-rotating assembly. :shifty:

http://home.comcast.net/~The_Bishop/camaro/porting.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Knife edge dat biatch!

Looks good, I think :lol:

[The_Bishop]

Not done with intakes. Exhaust all finished, now working intakes.

Grinding around a corner is a bitch.

[sweetbmxrider]

You're not done till you hit a coolant passage!

[The_Bishop]

Coolant passage? I thought that was extra port volume? :confused:

[LTb1ow]

Doing a valve job and decking heads ect?

[The_Bishop]

Yes, sir. Full valve job and resurfacing. Already have center bolt valve covers, truck coils with bracket and harness, new rockers and 42 pound injectors. Racetronix fuel pump and harness ready to install, also.

[LTb1ow]

Cams gun be cammin?

[The_Bishop]

Yes, it is. Going stealth with it, though. No lumpy idle. :shifty:

[LTb1ow]

Cool cool, any specs?

[sweetbmxrider]

Lumpy idles are for FRIENDS!

[The_Bishop]

Since I'm looking for performance, durability, fuel economy and cheap, I decided to go with an 04- Z06 cam. With all the bolt-ons, the port work, and a good tune I should be right around 390ish at the tire. I really don't want to wind this thing to the moon, either, as I don't want to dick with the rod bolts.

[Mike]

Wouldn't want to break the piston to valve clearance

[The_Bishop]

Absolutely not! Who knows what mayhem that would unleash.

[WildBillyT]

Wouldn't want to break the piston to valve clearance

When the clearance hits less than .088 of an inch you're gonna see some serious ****.

[The_Bishop]

When the clearance hits less than .088 of an inch you're gonna see some serious ****.

Quoted. That was great.

[The_Bishop]

Finally done.

Would I do it again? Here's a quote that covers it:
Le shudder. Plz no.

Next set of ported heads I deal with will involve a CNC machine and a start button. If I tried doing this again my hands, which feel as if I have been beating on them with hammers after the final 5+ hour stint with a grinder in them, would rebel, drop off my arms, shoot me the bird, and leave. I would not blame them.

http://home.comcast.net/~The_Bishop/camaro/intakedirty.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~The_Bishop/camaro/intakedirty2.jpg

They still need to washed out and blown dry, then off for the valve job.

I need to quick screwing around and decide what I'm doing for a cam. I was leaning towards the LS6 one, as I have the springs I need to do that. On the other hand, I'm thinking I might come to regret that decision, and I really don't want to do this twice. The LS6 cam has no real gains until the upper RPM range, while something like a Texas Speed 224r on a 114 will gain across the board.

Advice plz?

[LTb1ow]

An LS1 with a 224/224 114? Will it make you feel silly if thats the size of my LT1 cam?

I would go with the cam that gets you more mid range power, seems like you have a daily driver vs racecar shenz, so don't overcam it and hate it.

[The_Bishop]

Yeah, I'm looking to avoid the whole overcammed issue. I should probably put my ls6 springs up for sale...

[The_Bishop]

Ok, decision made. LS6 cam is out, bigger cam is in.

[Jersey Mike]

LS6 cam is something like a 204/218.

Why not have the heads flowed and then a custom cam ground to fit your needs?

[WayFast84]

Maybe I missed it but are these 243's?

[The_Bishop]

Well, don't know of any shops with a flow bench. Also, I'm not looking for max effort. I'm trying to do this on a tight budget, and having the heads flowed costs cash money.

[LTb1ow]

Well, don't know of any shops with a flow bench. Also, I'm not looking for max effort. I'm trying to do this on a tight budget, and having the heads flowed costs cash money.

Yea, and not worth it.

Unless you flow it, port more accordingly, and flow test again, repeat till 100%.. theres no need, you will never get perfect flow numbers cyl to cyl unless you are a CNC machine.

Go with that cam you mentioned earlier, should be real easy to tune and drive really nicely.

I had a 224/230 107 in an LT1 and that drove great, so LS1 should have no issue with a wider split.

[The_Bishop]

I'm really leaning towards a 224/224 on a 112 CL. It'll have 0 overlap at .050, which means decent idle, and the 112 CL should bring on the torque earlier.

Yes, 243's with lightweight valves.

[LTb1ow]

Yea should be quite fun with the 3600 yank

[The_Bishop]

Yeah. Traction would become problematic.

[LTb1ow]

MT ET street radials, do it.

[WayFast84]

I was recommended a 226/230 cam by AI for my ported 243's. I really wish I kept them and just went with a shelf F10 cam but even baby cam's put down great power with these heads.

[The_Bishop]

First I need to install heads, cam, fuel pump, fuel pump harness, and 42 pound injectors.

Wayfast, I'm trying to keep idle quality and driveability, not looking for max power.

[LTb1ow]

First I need to install heads, cam, fuel pump, fuel pump harness, and 42 pound injectors.

Wayfast, I'm trying to keep idle quality and driveability, not looking for max power.

Well what are you waiting for? :lol:

Although, isn't it cam, lifters, then heads? :wink:

[The_Bishop]

I'm working on it! :laugh:

I thought I could put the lifters in from the bottom? :confused:

[Jersey Mike]

I remember this thread from a long time back: http://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1213394-baby-eps-cam-lays-down-430rwhp-415rwtq-track-results.html


Personally, I'm glad you're going with a smaller cam and keeping driveability. I'd rather have the midrange pull than the top-end grunt, for a street car, as well.

[BarneyMobile]

You should run the same cam I'm running, 247/251 112 :lol:

[The_Bishop]

Mike, I saw that as well. It's very, very tempting.

Barney, that's a great cam... for a race car. :laugh:

[1984camaroz28]

you should flow them.... You could have done more damage then good.

[The_Bishop]

I really doubt it, as this isn't my first time with a grinder in my hands. I also didn't make major port changes aside from removing the rocker bolt boss. The rest consisted of contouring the valve guides, opening up the throats, and blending the valve seats into the port. This was followed up with using sanding rolls to knock down the casting flash in the port. I didn't dick with the floor, or the roof aside from blending in the area that used to be occupied by the bolt boss. The swirl ramp is exactly as cast, just smoothed out.

Port work done at the level I did is not magic. Does everyone believe that the only way to make power is with a cnc machine? Or that those cnc programs were handed down from on high along with the ten commandments?

[WSex]

sorry for hijack but how much does cnc porting go for?

[The_Bishop]

CNC porting with a valve job runs somewhere in the 600-700 range.

[LTb1ow]

So did you scrap the heads and get some CNC'd ones yet?

[The_Bishop]

I am now so ashamed that I dared to take a grinder to a set of ultra-super-rare 243 heads that I'm now junking the car and giving up driving forever. May god have mercy on my soul for my heretical actions in porting my own heads.

[LTb1ow]

I am now so ashamed that I dared to take a grinder to a set of ultra-super-rare 243 heads that I'm now junking the car and giving up driving forever. May god have mercy on my soul for my heretical actions in porting my own heads.

Seems like the best bet, but better enter the LS1 in the auto heritage museum, their super rare I hear.

:kneeslap:

So, what cam did you get?

[1984camaroz28]

I am now so ashamed that I dared to take a grinder to a set of ultra-super-rare 243 heads that I'm now junking the car and giving up driving forever. May god have mercy on my soul for my heretical actions in porting my own heads.

I was not saying that they have to be CNC to be a good head. My buddy mikey from MCP hand ports his 243s that make killer power and flow very well. The point that i was geting at was You should flow the head to see if the work you did made the head better. From pics posted your not going to see any huge gains in power. FYI mikeys 4x heads HAND PORTED picked up 40 rwhp and 50 ftlbs of tq over a stock head with an ls6 intake

[The_Bishop]

LTb1ow - I'm kinda leaning towards the EPS 222/226 115LSA, .597 .598. If you check that thread on LS1 tech, it made 430 RWHP on a bone stock crate LS6. It had a mild idle, and a hell of a lot of torque. It's probably going to be *something* real close to that. The Texas Speed 224/224 on a 114 is a proven performer, too, putting down 400+ RWHP with all the supporting mods and tuning. The EPS cam made 430 RWHP through an auto, though. Holy crap.

1984CamaroZ28 - If I pick up 20 HP from what I did, then I accomplished what I set out to do. I wasn't after major gains; I was looking to clean up the stock ports before I had the valve job done. Spending money to have them flow tested will accomplish nothing whatsoever; they're getting run as they are. It's a street car; I'm not looking for big ports that are lazy in air velocity at low RPM. So, I hit what will give me gains without sacrificing velocity. The rocker bolt boss is a giant flow restriction; before I had cleaned the heads you could see where the airflow was by the crud on the port walls; where the velocity was high, it was clean from the fuel wash. Where it was slow/blocked, there was junk on the walls. I got rid of restrictions. I opened up the throats, and blended the seats into the rest of the port, eliminating any ridges or sharp corners. I reduced the profile of the valve guides, which increases volume in the area of the port where the air is trying to turn a corner, and that helps without dropping velocity too much.

Trust me, I didn't go in and 'hog **** out.' I was careful, changed one section of each port at a time in all 8 ports so I could keep it as consistent as possible. I'm looking for flow gains without sacrificing port velocity and from what I've read/seen/experienced in other heads I have ported, I've made things better.

[WayFast84]

You cant go wrong with a tr224 or 224r.

[1984camaroz28]

LTb1ow - I'm kinda leaning towards the EPS 222/226 115LSA, .597 .598. If you check that thread on LS1 tech, it made 430 RWHP on a bone stock crate LS6. It had a mild idle, and a hell of a lot of torque. It's probably going to be *something* real close to that. The Texas Speed 224/224 on a 114 is a proven performer, too, putting down 400+ RWHP with all the supporting mods and tuning. The EPS cam made 430 RWHP through an auto, though. Holy crap.

1984CamaroZ28 - If I pick up 20 HP from what I did, then I accomplished what I set out to do. I wasn't after major gains; I was looking to clean up the stock ports before I had the valve job done. Spending money to have them flow tested will accomplish nothing whatsoever; they're getting run as they are. It's a street car; I'm not looking for big ports that are lazy in air velocity at low RPM. So, I hit what will give me gains without sacrificing velocity. The rocker bolt boss is a giant flow restriction; before I had cleaned the heads you could see where the airflow was by the crud on the port walls; where the velocity was high, it was clean from the fuel wash. Where it was slow/blocked, there was junk on the walls. I got rid of restrictions. I opened up the throats, and blended the seats into the rest of the port, eliminating any ridges or sharp corners. I reduced the profile of the valve guides, which increases volume in the area of the port where the air is trying to turn a corner, and that helps without dropping velocity too much.

Trust me, I didn't go in and 'hog **** out.' I was careful, changed one section of each port at a time in all 8 ports so I could keep it as consistent as possible. I'm looking for flow gains without sacrificing port velocity and from what I've read/seen/experienced in other heads I have ported, I've made things better.


You seem to have it all figured out..... G/L with ur build