Chasis Overhaul on my 94 Z28

[Mezzy]

:-P So I'm going to be installing all new components in the chasis front and rear. 8-). I'm looking to retain the stock feel as I'm not interested in a poly feel. So I've gotten whatever GM parts I was able to get thru my local Chevy dealer, and the rest are U.S.A. made Moog parts. Here's what I've purchased so far just after replacing all fuel and all brake lines:
1. Bilstein Tuned Shock and Spring kit
2. Rear Spring Pads
3. Lakewood Rear Control Arms
4. Moog Rear Sway Bar bushings
5. GM Rear Sway Bar stabilizer links
6. Lakewood Adj. Panhard Rod
7. Polyurethene Torque Arm Mount
8. GM Goodwrench Trans Mount
9. GM Goodwrench Front Stabilizer Links
10. GM Front Sway Bar Bushings
11. Moog Inner Tie Rods
12. Moog Outer Tie Rods
13. Moog Control Arm Bushings
14. Moog Ball Joints
15. Gm Goodwrench Fuel Pump
16. GM Goodwrench Sending Unit.

[sweetbmxrider]

You should throw motor mounts into the mix if they have never been done.

[WildBillyT]

You should use a polyeurethane transmission mount.

[maroman88]

You should use a polyeurethane transmission mount.

2nd that, i went thru about 5 rubber ones on my old 95z

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

You should use a polyeurethane transmission mount.

x1000

I broke 2 stockers and the car has a catback, and isn't a race car.

[V]

what are "rear spring pads" ? I'm assuming the rubber isolators and not the metal perches that are welded to the rear housing, lol.

[coolmanvette75]

You should use a polyeurethane transmission mount.

This. Broke rubber ones left and right before I switched...

[Dudbird113]

My rubber one i had in my car held up pretty good with only a few bolt ons. I checked some forums awhile back when i did my build and some people dont like the poly tranny mouts cause it makes the car vibrate more or some crap. But for me i feel no difference cause my car is obnoxious anyway

[Mezzy]

The spring pads are rubber pads that are located above the rear springs. They wear out and should always be replaced, anytime you replace the rear springs. I've had the poly trans mount in other 4th gen F bodies and my exp has been that it causes vibration. I don't beat the Hell out of this car a whole lot, since I have 2 other 4th gen F bodies. Anyway, they are so easy to replace, I don't mind using rubber. Plus, mine is an A4, which doesn't put stress on the trans like a 6 speed would. For anyone interested in keeping their car/cars forever like myself, here's how to keep a super high mileage car riding "like new"...My chasis has 225k on her and because I've always used rubber, the chasis does not rattle even one iota. Not a single squeak. I replace the shocks and springs every 50k as well. This keeps the chasis from getting beat up. (It also doesn't hurt to tighten all the dash screws once a year as well). I already have new motor mounts that went in a couple months ago. I know a lot of guys like polyurethene, but it is really intended for racing applications. I had no choice but to buy a poly torque arm mount. Couldn't find rubber. This is my daily driver and poly mounts I feel ride harsh since they aren't designed for a comfort ride. Although I do have some basic performance mods, such as Long tube headers, 3 in from the headers to the muffler with 2 1/2 outlets, stage 2 chip, CAI, roller rockers with the lt4 rocker module and a few other tricks, the chasis rides quiet and comfortable which is exactly how I want it. I also found a like new set of original wheels for $100. I'll be putting the original Michillan Pilot Sport tires on them in the spring. More updates to come.

[LTb1ow]

Sounds like an interesting car, and 225k on an LT1 car? Awesome!

You should make a intro thread and toss some pics up 8-)

[Anti_Rice_Guy]

Mezzy - my car is an A4 and has broken the stock mounts twice that I mentioned early. My poly trans mount (only poly in the car) does not cause the car to rattle, neither do the sfc's. It does not ride harsh at all.

[Mezzy]

That's good to hear because if I need another one, ill try it since you seem sure. Btw, another water pump went. I got one from Advanced Auto because the bolt on plates in the back last longer than the OEM design and they're the only place I could find that sold that style. I'm getting tired of replacing water pumps every 2 years. I'm gonna just do an LS1 swap if another one fails within the next 4 years.

I don't know how to upload pics or i would

Do yoy guys ever meet up to hang and show your cars?

I'm beginning to get tired of these ****** LT1s. I haven't wanted to admit their prone to failure repeatedly, but now I am a victim of this inferior design after many many years of this crap. I feel sorry for all other LT1 owners as these engines just suck for reliability. I'm definitely doing a nice clean LS swap asap. This crap is over for me. I'm going to host a party and celebrate the death of an LT1 and the rebirth of an LS1. That's a promise.

[maroman88]

my lt1s got 146k, no ptoblems

[Mezzy]

Most of the time I don't have any problems either. But replacing a water pump every 2 years plus an optispark is not the way a car is supposed to run. I'm just not going to deal with this issue anymore. I'm doing a swap. Now I see why GM ditched this design after only a few years. The LS series is still going strong since 1997, and has become the most popular engine for builds and new aftermarket components. It's considered the best GM V8 design since the original 350 was designed over 60 years ago. This reverse flow crap is for the birds. Most owners know exactly what I'm talking about if you own the car long enough. And I only drive mine 5k miles a year. So this pump has 10k on it. That's unacceptable. My other 2 LS cars give me absolutely no issues whatsoever.

[Dudbird113]

Haha i feel ya with the motor. I got poly all round and to be honest i dont feel any difference beside it handling better

[coolmanvette75]

Just get an electric waterpump...

[maroman88]

ive had 2 LS1 cars and both needed water pumps at 60-80k miles
ive had 3 LT1 cars all with WELL over 100k, and only one needed a water pump

u could argue all day, maybe u got a crappy aftermarket replacement?

[deadtrend1]

ive had 2 LS1 cars and both needed water pumps at 60-80k miles
ive had 3 LT1 cars all with WELL over 100k, and only one needed a water pump

u could argue all day, maybe u got a crappy aftermarket replacement?

Sounds like it to me.

[sweetbmxrider]

What keeps failing on the pump? Lots of guys will either seal the weep hole on the bottom or install a fitting and run a length of hose past the opti so you can still see it weep. I have an electric and its been good to me for a couple years now.

[WildBillyT]

ive had 2 LS1 cars and both needed water pumps at 60-80k miles
ive had 3 LT1 cars all with WELL over 100k, and only one needed a water pump

u could argue all day, maybe u got a crappy aftermarket replacement?

Aftermarket WPs are hit or miss. All of them. Advance, NAPA, AZ, etc.

The "rule of thumb" is AC Delco or electric WP, and AC Delco or MSD opti. Other brands are not as good.

[Mezzy]

Thanks. I went with an advanced water pump because I was told the bolt on plate is the better style. My LS cars have never given me a problem. I hope this pump lasts longer then 10k miles this time. We'll see. As far as the poly bushings go, I have heard so many mixed reviews, I am afraid to create a rattlebox,so I go with what I know works. Do you have every single piece poly? Including control arm bushings?. I'm thenking if you did every single peice in poly, it would ride harder. I could be wrong.

[Mezzy]

I'm going to buy a BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod. Classic Industries has if for $114. That's the last piece I need.

Thanks for all the inquires. At least I'm not alone

How do I post pics of my build?

[Mezzy]

I bought a set of rear control arms by Lakewood. I see the BMR arms are adjustable. I'm installing a set of Eibach springs that will lower the car a little but no lore than an inch. How do I know if the non adjustable arms I bought will work? How do i determine if I need the adjustable ones? Thanks guys

[Mike]

When you put the springs in you will know other than that...search people with the same springs?

[coolmanvette75]

When my car was lowered on eibach pro's I had non adjustable aftermarket lca's and had no problems...

[MyFirstZ]

I also have non adjustables in my car. No issues as well so from experience with the same springs and shocks you should be OK.

Can't imagine what kinds of drop is required to change the distance that much from the rear to the chassis

[Mezzy]

Awesome! Thanks guys for your experiences. I feel a lot better knowing I should be ok.

[Mezzy]

I'll have to try sealing the weep hole. Is their a certain way that works best?

[sweetbmxrider]

Just look and see if the wheel is centered in the wheel well.

[WildBillyT]

I'll have to try sealing the weep hole. Is their a certain way that works best?

This is a terrible idea. Do not do that.

The only reason to modify anything with that hole is to protect your opti.

Here is what I did to my Delco:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/double_overdrive496/Trans%20Am/c2482016.jpg

JB weld and a vacuum tee. Then the hose is routed away from the opti, so if the WP starts to go bad it's not going to ruin the distributor.

[sweetbmxrider]

If you run an electric, nothing wrong with sealing that thing up. Alas the point is moot here.

[Mezzy]

Before I put my new water pump in, I'm going to weld a tee into the hole also. Great idea.

[WildBillyT]

Before I put my new water pump in, I'm going to weld a tee into the hole also. Great idea.

I hope you don't mean electric or gas weld. That is not necessary.

[Mezzy]

I meant I'm going to do a JB weld lol

[WildBillyT]

:) cool.

[Mezzy]

Hoping this pump with the bolt on back plate, lasts longer then the GM pump in their now

[Mezzy]

So I've ordered new A arms from BMR, and sent back the OEM ball joints and control arm bushings. Hoping to have it all back together by end if January. If not, February. Should be ready for the 2013 Power Tour this year.

[L695speed]

Bit off topic but you mentioned it so I'll ask. When is the Power Tour in 2013?

[Mezzy]

Not positive because I don't exactly remember, but I think its in may? I gotta look it up

[Mike]

http://www.hotrod.com/eventcoverage/hrdp_1206w_2013_power_tour_dates_cities/

[Mezzy]

Got my A arms, Torque Arm and Panhard Rod today from Mr.UPS. Now I have everything to begin putting it back together the rest of the way. Once the fuel assembly and rear suspension are back together, it'll be time to focus on the water pump and then onto the front suspension. I expect it to ride damn close to new again. Should handle corners better. Can't wait to see how it feels to drive with a functioning set of shocks and springs. That damn clunking in the front end had better be gone too, lol. Its the control arm bushings and a bad ball joint, so these a arms should make a big difference.

[L695speed]

http://www.hotrod.com/eventcoverage/hrdp_1206w_2013_power_tour_dates_cities/

Ah thanks. A bit too far for my tastes and funds now. If it were hitting through the Northeast however, I would have seen if I could hook up with the convoy.

[sweetbmxrider]

Take pics of the work, I love me some shiny parts!

[Mezzy]

Still can't figure out the photobucket app. I think I installed it, but can't figure out how to upload pics. Anyway, I've just about got everything in. Just gotta get it aligned. I'll be out this year at various meets to show how it came out. Still gonna add a few more upgrades this spring. I decided to upgrade some components on my Formula before going any further on this car since only things left on here are the torque arm. But since I don't launch this car really, and my bird has a lot more hp, I'm installing the torque arm along with a PanhArd rod on the Formula next.

[Mezzy]

So its all together now. New fuel pump and sending unit are in. New water pump is in. A Arms are in. New Adj Panhard rod is in. New torque arm is in. New trans mount, in. Forgot to order new strut mounts, so I had to wait for them. Was able to get the exhast off without having to cut if off at the axle. I love the way the Bilstein shocks and the tuned Eibach springs handle. Car rides much nicer now. The sway bar bushings and links are in. I have two issues to contend with...first , the Y pipe is 3", so now after re-installing the cat back, the Y pipe is laying against the body under the drivers door and is smaking the floor during take off. My motor mounts, although rubber, are perfectly fine. I'm going to try and loosen the motor mounts and see if their is any adjudtment left in the mounts to possibly drop the engine a 1/4 of an inch. That should be all I need. If that doesn't work, ill try poly mounts. The other challenge I have is, after having the car was aligned, the car drifts/pulls slightly to the right more than I'd like it to. The shop gave me the print out showing it aligned streight. I'm going to have them check it again, but if all seams fine, I'm going to be scatching my head for a spell on this one. I already switched the front tires, to check for a bad tire, seeing if it would pull the other way, but to no avail. Does the same thing with the tires flipped. I'm wondering if the Panhard Rod, being adjustable, could be having something to do with it, possibly needing an adjustment during the aligning process. Other than that, it runs great. I think its only lower by about a 1/2 inch-1". Not hitting anything. Handling is noticeably better. Alittle harsh on larger bumps, but nothing to be alarmed about. I'll keep everyone posted as I try and figure out how to create more room between the unit body and the exhaust. I'm also going to see whats up with the alignment and I'll let you know what I find.

[Mike]

I wouldn't try to fix the exhaust issue by messing with the engine height. Might cause some driveline issues that would end up more annoying than the banging y pipe

[Mezzy]

Yeah, that makes sense. I have a peice of pure silicon I got from a friend that has a melting point of over 600degrees ferenheight. I've got about 1/4 inch clearance between the body and the pipe. It's actually the part of the chasis that looks like a frame runner, running down the body. Like where you'd put the Lift Arm to raise the vehicle. That rail is about 1 inch lower along the body. I'm going to try and clamp the peice of silicone to the Y pipe and see if it muffles the noise and cushions the banging between that rail and the pipe. If that 1" rail runner formed into the unit body wasn't there, I wouldn't be having this challenge.

[Mezzy]

I'm going to be installing polyurathene engine mount centers that install in my old mm brackets. See if that helps