84 Firebird $1000 project.

[WayFast84]

So I sold my 4th gen because it wasn't a car I really enjoyed compared to my 3rd gen, which has been sitting since 2010 or 2011 because I keep popping rocker arm studs and/or pushrods. I've since ordered 1.5 ratio rocker arms but I never got around to putting them on because of how demoralizing the car is.

Motor is a 400sbc
Vortec heads
234/244 @ .050" .488"/.510", 114 LSA cam
Performer RPM intake
Speed demon 750
3500 stall connected to a TH350

Here is my plan.

I'll have a $1000 budget on this car, $125 a paycheck over the course of the next four months, for the car to be ready for the spring. I'll be focusing on what need's to be replaced like:

Balancer bolt
Trans pan/Gasket(it's leaking)
Rear adjustable control arms(the ones on it are from the 4th gen I sold)
Battery
headlight rebuild kit
Horn
Headliner
Interior plastics
Alternator

Every penny I have left over will go to:
9 bolt 3.27 rear
Subframe connectors
Exhaust

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a286/Wayfast84/2240532740088765691JSyTzv_ph-1-1.jpg

I get paid this Friday 1/18/13 and will make my first round of parts order and update this thread biweekly with my payday. I haven't felt this excited for a project in years. Which was one reason I had to get rid of my 4th gen.

Edit #1 1/14/13
PARTS I ORDERED
A new balancer bolt and a new air cleaner
Headlight rebuild kit
TR55 plugs
Top Dead center locator
Umi LCA's
Spohn adjustable phb
Harbor freight jack
$290 spent so far

[WildBillyT]

Get a pushrod length checker!

[WayFast84]

Get a pushrod length checker!

http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Cams-79051-Pushrod-Checker/dp/B00062YFQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358184491&sr=8-1&keywords=pushrod+length+checker

Is this good enough? Any write up's on how to use it?

[WildBillyT]

http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-'Pushrods'-0.aspx

Better than I can type. Read "measurement techniques", too.

[1320B4U]

I've got an extra pan/new gasket for the trans if you want it. I will just need to find the gasket but it shouldn't be too hard. lmk if interested.

[WayFast84]

Just an update. Had to send a part back. Didn't order anything new yet. I'm cleaning out the garage so I can actually work on the car, little by little.




I've got an extra pan/new gasket for the trans if you want it. I will just need to find the gasket but it shouldn't be too hard. lmk if interested.

I want to make sure I need it before I buy stuff.

[L695speed]

Sounds like its easily done. Sounds similar to the deal I did with 88WS-6's GTA when I bought it. Figured right around a grand for the bottom end to be redone. Still gotta do the valve seals at least if not a whole valve job. UMI and Founders (reportedly) have nice LCAs. I know you can get the UMI adjustables for right around 100-120 or so I believe. Do you plan to weld in the SFCs yourself or have someone do it?

[WayFast84]

I like Paul at RPM, he's went above and beyond when he did some bike parts. If he can do the SFC's I'd be really happy. If not I'm sure I'll be able to find a shop locally.

I got to work on it a little bit today. I forgot how awesome this car is and I can't wait for it to run again.

[L695speed]

I like Paul at RPM, he's went above and beyond when he did some bike parts. If he can do the SFC's I'd be really happy. If not I'm sure I'll be able to find a shop locally.

I got to work on it a little bit today. I forgot how awesome this car is and I can't wait for it to run again.

He can, Paul Hyurk of CTW Wheels had Paul of RPM put in SFCs on his GTA. Said he did a really nice job. He said he can do them for me as well and likely whoever else does it. They need to be installed a certain way, car needs to be weighted as a complete car (no problem for you there) and I believe all four wheels need to be on the ground. So a drive on lift would be best. I'd just talk to Paul and go from there. I'll probably have him do mine when I get there.

[deadtrend1]

He can, Paul Hyurk of CTW Wheels had Paul of RPM put in SFCs on his GTA. Said he did a really nice job. He said he can do them for me as well and likely whoever else does it. They need to be installed a certain way, car needs to be weighted as a complete car (no problem for you there) and I believe all four wheels need to be on the ground. So a drive on lift would be best. I'd just talk to Paul and go from there. I'll probably have him do mine when I get there.

Not really a necessary thing to have the wheels on the ground, just dont do it by jacking up one corner type of thing. Picking up on a lift is fine ...

[L695speed]

Not really a necessary thing to have the wheels on the ground, just dont do it by jacking up one corner type of thing. Picking up on a lift is fine ...

Ah ok, I'll remember that. So much conflicting information from different people, on how to install them. Most say drive on lift is best vs your standard lift because the suspension is loaded. If that means anything when installing SFCs. I've also seen them installed when the car is a bare shell on a body dolly. I guess the key is to not do them with one corner jacked up then. Anyway, enough of that, back on topic.

[WildBillyT]

FWIW I personally witnessed Steve Spohn install a set on a lift.

Biggest thing (like deadtrend said) is to keep the body out of torsion. In most cases, guys put cars up on jackstands and the car is not level. That's bad. Rather then go through big explanations most people just say finish the job on the ground to be safe.

[WayFast84]

We're still a long time from that point. I need to measure pushrods length before anything else.

[WayFast84]

Yeah...This is on the hold once more. Big surprise right?

[WildBillyT]

Matt, what's the hold up?

[B4C]

Imo looks wierd without a spolier.

[WayFast84]

I'm busy as hell with school. I just got on spring break and got a phone call from my adviser saying I got a scholarship to go study in Sicily this summer. I have to pay for airfare and housing and I probably won't have a job when I get back. It's a once in a lifetime opportunity I'd hate to lose because of my addiction to cars.

I'm accepting donations for a Firehawk style spoiler ;)

[WayFast84]

GAME ON. Not only did my boss give me the whole month of July off, he's putting me full time In May, so I won't miss out on that month's pay.

[WayFast84]

I edited my list. I have all the parts to get started. I'm 3 finals and a paper away from giving this motor it's last chance to behave.

[WayFast84]

Does anyone think it's worth it to upgrade my PHB? I can get a double adjustable LCA and PHB kit from Founders for $200.

Also signed up for night classes at the votech. Hopefully I'll be able to repaint the car there. If not I should have learned enough to do it by myself. I have everything picked out but the hood.

[Mike]

If you are lowering the car. Do the panhard

[BonzoHansen]

I have everything picked out but the hood.

go factory 82-84 turbo bulge or go home

[WayFast84]

If you are lowering the car. Do the panhard

I'm not planning on it but I was gonna swap the rear for a posi 3.23 or 3.43 with disc brakes. What are the chances of a factory rear being off?

[WildBillyT]

I'm not planning on it but I was gonna swap the rear for a posi 3.23 or 3.43 with disc brakes. What are the chances of a factory rear being off?

Very good.

[V]

like mike said, If lowering you need or really should have an adjustable panhard.
This tries to explain why. When you lower the ride height, the panhard acts in an arc of the triangle and shifts the rear to one side more than the other. An adjustable allows you to correct this.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/SmokingSS/panhard_zps65c829a6.png


If putting a stock rear suspension setup in the car and just changing the rear but keeping the stock springs and all, then you can keep a stock panhard too.

[WayFast84]

I know the last post was 6 months ago but I picked up an adjustable PHB to replace my non adjustable. It's getting close to being fired. Just need a battery and to adjust the rockers, and new plugs.

[WayFast84]

Finally done with school and working full time. Over the last couple weeks I installed half of my LCA's and took off the Axleback(muffler and tips) and installed a spiral flow and dump. My jacks are completely dead and are probably not even worth it to take it apart and fix.

I've come to the conclusion about 1/4 of my budget is going to valve covers to get my stud girdles in to stop breaking studs.

[WildBillyT]

Did you ever check your valvetrain geometry?

[WayFast84]

Did you ever check your valvetrain geometry?

PM sent.

[WayFast84]

This car is a nightmare. Now I remember why I stopped working on it for a few years. Yesterday it took me 3 hours to install a LCA on the driverside and I had to unbolt basically everything on the rear to move the lca enough for the holes to line up. Something tells me that relocation brackets and the adjustable PHB will really help this car.

On my quest to make this car somewhat less of a death trap I learned how to adjust drum brakes. It seems pretty straightforward and one side should not be any problem. The other side has a broken spring and I'll be making another thread.

The six o clock spring is busted... http://imgur.com/gBO1QqX

[B4C]

Yesterday it took me 3 hours to install a LCA on the driverside and I had to unbolt basically everything on the rear to move the lca enough for the holes to line up.

Had the same problem, ratchet strapped the axle to a tree near by and tightened the strap until it lined up.

[WayFast84]

It's basically been on hold for a while because I had no motivation to do anything after work but lay in the fetal position or get drunk. I'll be fixing the brakes by junking the rear. I already picked up a 12 bolt with 3.73. During black friday I'll be shopping for some aftermarket disc brakes, a driveshaft, loop and LCA's.

I'm still working on the motor, the entire valve train is going to be checked and upgraded when needed.

[Jersey Mike]

Any update on this?

[PolarBear]

Any update on this?

Way to revive a dead thread :rofl:

[LS1ow]

Any update on this?

Mike are you drunk posting?

[Jersey Mike]

Lmao, he commented in the "Winter Project" thread about pulling a motor... wasn't sure what ever came of this project & was bored enough to find out. Sue me :lol:

[WayFast84]

Junked the project and decided to go full on LS1 Swap. I have a motor from an 01 Trans am and basically everything else except for the fuel system, tuned computer and a new water pump. I also need brake lines for my 12 bolt with LS1 rear brakes. My goal is to have it done by June 1st.

[Punkmaster 98]

Junked the project and decided to go full on LS1 Swap. I have a motor from an 01 Trans am and basically everything else except for the fuel system, tuned computer and a new water pump. I also need brake lines for my 12 bolt with LS1 rear brakes. My goal is to have it done by June 1st.

Not sure what your plan is but the oem carb fuel line from the 84 will work, you could also swap to TPI/TBI fuel lines. I have the part nbumbers for the correct AN conversion fitting to 6an that goes on the end if you need.

[WayFast84]

I'm looking for the easiest long term solution. Part of me thinks a 99+ LS1 tank with a walboro and GTP fuel sending unit. This gives me more anxiety than wiring.

Edit. I just want the fuel level gauge to work and in tank pump basically.

[Punkmaster 98]

I'm looking for the easiest long term solution. Part of me thinks a 99+ LS1 tank with a walboro and GTP fuel sending unit. This gives me more anxiety than wiring.

Edit. I just want the fuel level gauge to work and in tank pump basically.

factory TPI/tbi sending unit will work also. 99 and up tank works as well as factory tank.

[WayFast84]

I got a Wix Vette filter/regulator, TPI sending unit and a Walboro hot kit. Any idea about the fittings I'll need?

[wretched73]

How TF is this still going on?? When was the last time the car ran? 2009?

[WayFast84]

2012. Decided to park it while I finished school. Graduated a few years ago and been saving up parts with what money I have left over after paying bills and maxing out retirement accounts.

[wretched73]

2012. Decided to park it while I finished school. Graduated a few years ago and been saving up parts with what money I have left over after paying bills and maxing out retirement accounts.

Did you get it running with the 400?

[Punkmaster 98]

I got a Wix Vette filter/regulator, TPI sending unit and a Walboro hot kit. Any idea about the fittings I'll need?

Its up to you on where you want to mount it. if you want to make use of stock lines you can mount the filter in the bay. you will need the correct AN lines that go onto the factory v8 carb lines. if i recall the ends are not threaded on those in the bay.

[Punkmaster 98]

this may be of help

https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/17357320_691644477708486_1387094843_o.jpg?oh=5c34d bb5e24cf86e9cfc2300cc27fe25&oe=58CE6FFB

[WayFast84]

Got the fittings. Bought a grand worth of parts this month and I need to pay off my C.C. before I get the brake lines and cables. Anyone use Flynbye? They have a couple different lines/cables for rear brake swaps.

[Jersey Mike]

Anyone use Flynbye? They have a couple different lines/cables for rear brake swaps.

Only once & it was years ago. Communication was atrocious, wait time was torture, but price was fair & product was stellar.
I intend to use them again in the future, if that tells you anything.

[PolarBear]

Anyone use Flynbye?

I have several times. You'll never actually get in touch with them, but you'll get what you order, eventually.

[WildBillyT]

Got the fittings. Bought a grand worth of parts this month and I need to pay off my C.C. before I get the brake lines and cables. Anyone use Flynbye? They have a couple different lines/cables for rear brake swaps.

Seemed like a guy running a business from his house. I ordered a 93-97 rear axle line and it did not fit. Quality seemed good but I had to re-flare.

[BonzoHansen]

Kore3......

[PolarBear]

Seemed like a guy running a business from his house. I ordered a 93-97 rear axle line and it did not fit. Quality seemed good but I had to re-flare.

Yeah, Ed is definitely run out of his house. I think his Wife handles most of the business since he works a lot

[PolarBear]

Kore3......

Tobin is good, but he doesn't have nearly the options of stuff that Ed sells

[Jersey Mike]

Yeah, Ed is definitely run out of his house. I think his Wife handles most of the business since he works a lot

Yup. I remember digging around back in 2012-ish & finally finding a phone number to call. His wife took the call...

[IROCZman15]

I had Ed at fly-n-bye build my set of 13" C4HD brakes onto the 2" drop spindles back in 2006 or so and somehow I got lucky and had great communication with him and once I shipped him my spindles he had everything back to me fully assembled, powedercoated, and all in about 10 days. The parts and build are awesome. I wrote him a nice email back and complimented him i think on one of the message boards. Then around 2011 or so I decided to swap from my stock rear drums to the C4HD 12" setup he sells . Again, I emailed him asking a few tech questions and placed the order. it was less than 2 weeks for sure that all parts were at my door. Everything was nice and packed well parts were quality and went together on the car smoothly. Somehow I have been lucky with orders from him, and while I probably won't ever need to buy/upgrade my brakes, if I did i would contact him and buy from there. without a doubt

I have heard/read dozens of stories about how people have placed orders and waited months, not even for full brake kits, but for simple 1 item purchases. Why this happens??I have no idea.. poor luck of the draw maybe? bad timing? who knows.

Got the fittings. Bought a grand worth of parts this month and I need to pay off my C.C. before I get the brake lines and cables. Anyone use Flynbye? They have a couple different lines/cables for rear brake swaps.

[Punkmaster 98]

i ordered by 4thgen brake swap hubs from them. took about 2 months to get, not a single phone call or email was responded to. Recently bought another brake setup but from big brake upgrade

[BonzoHansen]

I can't believe people go back to that guy.

[WayFast84]

Waiting on my brake lines to drop the tank and do the fuel system and install the 12 bolt. Sent the ECM Monday out to remove vats.

Anyone have experience with buying reducers with 02 bungs pre-welded? Would that work? I plan on running the Holley true dual exhaust.

[WayFast84]

Went to dial in the old motor and fire it up one last time before I swapped it out and I bent another pushrod. So far I've removed the exhaust. Still waiting on brake lines.. also thinking about upgrading A arms and getting a coilovers kit.

[PolarBear]

Went to dial in the old motor and fire it up one last time before I swapped it out and I bent another pushrod. So far I've removed the exhaust. Still waiting on brake lines.. also thinking about upgrading A arms and getting a coilovers kit.

Don't waste your money on a coil over kit for a 3rd gen. Go with a weight jack setup instead, there is no real value add for the coil over on a 3rd

[wretched73]

Don't waste your money on a coil over kit for a 3rd gen. Go with a weight jack setup instead, there is no real value add for the coil over on a 3rd

I second this.

[IROCZman15]

how did ya bend the pushrod on a simple fire up

GET UMI arms

[WayFast84]

Almost ready to take the motor out. A few more bolts, the hood and time...

I may be able to swing the A arms but I'm currently freaking out about the brake lines and debating if I should get a big brake kit and sell off my fourth gen rear brakes and put a charge back on my card.

[PolarBear]

Why would you sell the 4th gen rear brakes? They are an upgrade from the stock thirdgen stuff and they work. I have stock 4th gen front brakes, the equivalent of the Baer 44th gen LT1 rear brakes Which is a 12" Corvette rotor instead of the 11" LT1 F-body rotor, stainless hard lines and Ed's hoses all the way around. It doesn't break the bank and it stops way better than I could have wanted from the factory.

I wouldn't bother with new A arms, but get the Global West Del-a-lum bushings for the stock arms. And you can box the stock arms if you feel the need for more "strength". You're not saving much weight with the tubular A arms

[ThoR294]

^

98 and up front brakes are pretty sweet too. Dual piston and bigger than lt1 brakes. stainless lines + hawk HPS pads and some decent blank rotors will stop it good

[WayFast84]

I'd go a different route because I can't get my parts from Ed. Where else can I get lines and stuff ?

[PolarBear]

Try these guys. I got my hubs from them

http://bigbrakeupgrade.com/

[Punkmaster 98]

Try these guys. I got my hubs from them

http://bigbrakeupgrade.com/

excellent vendor. I got my c6 brake kit from them. great customer service

[WayFast84]

Those parts look nice! I sent them an email about what I'm doing and asked if they had the right parts for me. Maybe I will use them for the front brake swap down the line.

[WayFast84]

Ed finally shipped the parts out. It only took 7 days of a paypal dispute.

[WayFast84]

http://i.imgur.com/cZgnK4P.jpg

I'm taking baby steps. My next project will be to get the poly motor mount bushings installed, and engine cleaned up. The engine came with a snapped exhaust manifold bolt so I ordered an easy-out kit for that.

[WayFast84]

Update. Motor mount inserts are done, and painted. I'm now trying to remove a broken header bolt, and broken easy-out. I'm using a dremel to remove the remains of the easy-out, drill out the bolt and throw a helicoil in it, if I can't I'm throwing on an upgraded head.

[WayFast84]

https://i.imgur.com/xchXi91.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xpPeUyA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ct3WgNa.jpg

Skip to the bold section for car updates.

Some members found my post on TGO so I thought I'd update my project thread here with project and life news.

In 2018, I began working with kids who are at risk like I was when I first joined here. I'm four classes shy of a master's in Special Education. Last summer I got engaged, and this year I am about to close on a house about 5 minutes from where I grew up. I had been looking for property in Monmouth county so I could build a garage/shop in the back but the housing market is crazy and I'd be years away from the shop being built so the 60-mile commute wouldn't be worth it. Some of the best advice I ever saw here was about saving for a house instead of blowing money on cars and I took it to heart.

Another piece of advice I took to heart was not to mix your hobby with a career. I don't think cars and racing are just a hobby of mine anymore and I don't think they ever were just a hobby. After graduate school, a career, and running my own business I think it's time to make my life revolve around them and I'm hoping I can be a regular at meets and track events all over the state and country and I'd really like to start filming events and racing. I'm also interested in starting or working with a program to teach/mentor at-risk kids about mechanics and racing.



Since the last update my goals have changed, I think a realistic goal is to put 1500 miles on the car and run an 11 second 1/4 mile pass by the end of August 2021. So far the old motor has been removed from the car and a Spohn k-member has been installed as well as BMR A-arms and I took one coil off of the springs. The car still looks like a 4x4 but I'm hoping that with a hood, and a turbo down the line it will look a little better. I did PAC springs and a Sloppy Stage II camshaft to the motor, and I'm very nervous I screwed it up. The LS was installed and it was a complete bitch. All the work I did to install the Poly inserts into the stock motor mounts was a waste of time. I had to go with stock replacement ones in order for the motor to finally slide into place, I installed the stock radiator which may or may not be good enough. I'm on a tight budget until I close on the house and get my paycheck in September so I'll have to address that later. I decided to ditch the headers I had in favor of Speed Engineering Long Tubes and they slid right into place from the top. The plan is to try the Hooker True dual kit with them. I read on TGO that they fit great and you only need an exhaust bracket for the driver side. I currently have the stock rear end yanked from the car and I'm ready to drop the fuel tank for a new one with -6 AN lines, Corvette fuel filter/regulator, and a Painless fuel pump relay kit and a 4th Gen 12 Bolt. All of this work so far has been done by me and me alone. It's not something I ever thought I'd be able to do by myself and I have estimates on my computer as motivation. All of the tech threads here and YouTube videos have been such a big help for me, thank you to everyone posting and answering questions, I could not be doing this without you.