73 Camaro "Black Pearl"

[PolarBear]

Oops, the front end fell off the car!
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130316_141517.jpg

[//<86TA>\\]

Hey look, a legit ac delete panel, no more ductape!:-)

[PolarBear]

Where have you been? I put that on last year, lol

[chrisfrom nj]

looks great when are you going to finish it

[PolarBear]

I have quite a bit to do. I have the front suspension to replace, entire wiring harness, new front "sheet metal"and a few other items if I get ambitious. Hope to have as much done as I can to try to make it to Cops N Rodders

[Dudbird113]

I wish i could pull my fenders off and work on my motor like u can

[zraffz]

Dude you have a 3rd gen or some el camino looking thing as a "parts car"! I wish I had one too :(

[PolarBear]

That's a 91 GTA, fire loss. Serves various purposes right now, holds my boxes, mockup car and helps me get up into the ceiling :)

[WildBillyT]

Is that still the same 454?

[PolarBear]

Yeah

[WildBillyT]

Valve covers look good on it

[PolarBear]

CarbonfiBear!

[PolarBear]

Looks like my oil consumption problems were not ALL valve guide problems. I am putting on another set of heads that I have because I thought that would solve my problem. I already have the "new" (to me) heads on the car and I was moving the intake manifold, I had it downside up and I noticed it leaking oil. the bottom of the one side of the dual plane had a bunch of clean oil in it. It was getting sucked in around #6 it looks like, possibly past the gasket but it is hard to tell now since I got my grubby hands on the intake and I cant tell on the head because I also had that downside up for a while. Two plugs are also really grody, #6 and one on the other side. I forget which. I think it is another that is on the same plane as 6 though.

[WildBillyT]

What?

[PolarBear]

What?

What do you mean what? The car has been blowing oil out the exhaust. Like a quart every 50 miles :shock: its only really bad when I would romp on it

[chrisfrom nj]

bad rings in the number 6 cyl

[chrisfrom nj]

use restore engine treatment and see what happens the ring will seal and you get better gas milage

[PolarBear]

No oil on the piston head and it wasn't burning it, compression on that cylinder was in line with the rest of them.

[chrisfrom nj]

ok did you figure out why it was burning oil

[PolarBear]

Its not burning it, it goes right out the tail pipe. One time I passed Scott and Billy and I sprayed their cars with oil. We assumed it was the valve seals. I changed them and it got better, but it was still pulling a lot when I would get on the throttle. We assumed it was the valve guides since the compression was pretty good on all the cylinders.

I am not really asking for advice here, just showing what I found when I pulled it apart. It was the one intake gasket leaking oil past. I suspect the manifold may be the culprit.

[chrisfrom nj]

Its not burning it, it goes right out the tail pipe. One time I passed Scott and Billy and I sprayed their cars with oil. We assumed it was the valve seals. I changed them and it got better, but it was still pulling a lot when I would get on the throttle. We assumed it was the valve guides since the compression was pretty good on all the cylinders.

I am not really asking for advice here, just showing what I found when I pulled it apart. It was the one intake gasket leaking oil past. I suspect the manifold may be the culprit.intake manifold gasket will cause it to burn oil too did you check the intake if its warped to im glad you figured it out the car looks great,you literally smoked Scott and Billy

[PolarBear]

intake manifold gasket will cause it to burn oil too did you check the intake if its warped to im glad you figured it out the car looks great,you literally smoked Scott and Billy

My thought is that it may be warped. It is an original LS6 low rise manifold so I could get the big block under a flat hood. When I got it off ebay it looked pretty nice, all the threads were good in the ports and whatnot, but the water outlet flange was not flat and had a groove in it and leaked coolant. We used a file and got it flat and most of the groove out. Then I used the Fel-pro gasket with the molded o-ring on the gasket and these solved the coolant issue. Since it did have this problem I think the head flange may have an issue.

I only need this engine to last/work one more driving season, barring any financial issues :) , then it is coming out. Either my cousin is going to take the engine or it will go in my 69 C10 truck. If it goes in my truck it is going to get a different manifold.

[WildBillyT]

What do you mean what? The car has been blowing oil out the exhaust. Like a quart every 50 miles :shock: its only really bad when I would romp on it

I said what because I couldn't follow what you were trying to say.

In summation, your one intake gasket was leaking oil into the head and therefore through the whole deal? That would be great if it was a simple issue like that.

[PolarBear]

I said what because I couldn't follow what you were trying to say.

In summation, your one intake gasket was leaking oil into the head and therefore through the whole deal? That would be great if it was a simple issue like that.

Yes :-P I thought most people knew about the oil problems, thats why I thought it was strange you were asking. I didnt realize my word vomit was not understandable :rofl:


Both heads are on and tarqued now, just have to put the top end together. I am **thinking** about putting a cam in it since I am only one gasket away from doing that. I dropped a bolt down the dizzy hole, it was sitting on top of the oil drive, but the magnet was grabbing everything but the bolt on the way down and the bolt moved. Then I used the little flexible grabbing tool, but I missed and the bolt fell out of view. So now I have to drop the pan at the very least, the timing cover is only (two really) sets of gaskets away.

On the other hand, I only need one more driving season out of this engine before it gets yanked and then punted, so it seems money out the door if I were to get a cam and lifters..... and timing chain set...... and springs...... and....... and......


Love snow, hate the snowball effect :mrgreen:

[BonzoHansen]

...Both heads are on and tarqued now...Is that high tark?

[WildBillyT]

Yeah, I hear you on that one.

Regarding the cam, yeah you could swap it because there's only 2 gaskets left, but if you replace it with a flat tappet you run the risk of wiping it on break in.

If you do swap cams I have extra camshaft break in oil, with Comp's additive package. Fill motor, break in, dump oil.

[PolarBear]

Is that high tark?

F'in A!

Yeah, I hear you on that one.

Regarding the cam, yeah you could swap it because there's only 2 gaskets left, but if you replace it with a flat tappet you run the risk of wiping it on break in.

If you do swap cams I have extra camshaft break in oil, with Comp's additive package. Fill motor, break in, dump oil.

Wiping it because of the crappy cores I have been reading about? Or you mean re-using the lifters? If you mean re-using lifters I would buy new ones, and everything else..... would probably throw the carb on for break in too if I did that, with the mechanical fuel pump and a 5 gallon can on the ground :rofl:

[WildBillyT]

F'in A!



Wiping it because of the crappy cores I have been reading about? Or you mean re-using the lifters? If you mean re-using lifters I would buy new ones, and everything else..... would probably throw the carb on for break in too if I did that, with the mechanical fuel pump and a 5 gallon can on the ground :rofl:

Wiping because of the crappy cores. I am a firsthand victim.

With the way you make it rain I can't imagine you'd re-use lifters.

Also, you can't do that with a flat tappet cam. They seat to the lobes.

[PolarBear]

Wiping because of the crappy cores. I am a firsthand victim.

With the way you make it rain I can't imagine you'd re-use lifters.

Also, you can't do that with a flat tappet cam. They seat to the lobes.

Yeah, I would be loathe to spend money on a flat tappet to just have it get wiped out. This has scared me off for a while, reading about experienced builders wiping cams
I would go roller too, but that's around a grand for the retrofit kit

[WildBillyT]

Yeah, I would be loathe to spend money on a flat tappet to just have it get wiped out. This has scared me off for a while, reading about experienced builders wiping cams
I would go roller too, but that's around a grand for the retrofit kit

That's why I'm questioning even going for it. The 292H I had go did it on an engine dyno at a very reputable builder's place. He took me in the dyno cell and showed what had happened and how the pushrod was not spinning. FWIW the guy that built the engine was a member of Pat Musi's crew.

Does it have an aftermarket cam in it now? Gun to my head I wouldn't jack with it if you plan on replacing it in its entirety soon. It's almost cruising season.

[PolarBear]

Does it have an aftermarket cam in it now? Gun to my head I wouldn't jack with it if you plan on replacing it in its entirety soon. It's almost cruising season.

I dont know what is in it. It definitely has a rebuild on it now that I have checked the cylinders. No ridge at the top, still has crosshatch and the cylinders look about ~.010 over. If it is not a stock cam, its a really small upgrade. Idles smooth, great vacuum.....:|

I was only contemplating since I am sooo close to what I would need to do for the change. If I kept the engine, if my cousin doesn't buy it, the 454 would go into the truck I think I decided so the cam would be beneficial to the truck too in the long run. But if I do that I can do it later too....


I'll just stick with what it has for now and hopefully the intake gasket will seal better this time.

[BonzoHansen]

you ever do a leak down or compression test on it?

[PolarBear]

you ever do a leak down or compression test on it?

Compression yes, leakdown no.

[WildBillyT]

What did it look like?

[PolarBear]

1: ~155-160
2: 160
3: ~155-160
4: 160
5: 155
6: 155
7: 155
8: ~160

[WildBillyT]

Install the intake and go. Buy good gaskets that properly fit the intake ports.

[PolarBear]

New and previous gaskets are Fel-Pro. They are for the rectangle ports of the LS6 manifold. BTK and I installed this manifold and gaskets so I am pretty confident that it was done properly. I dont have a real good straight edge to check for "flatness", I have a few metal rules, but they are a bit too flexible to make an accurate judgement guess whether the flange area is not warped or anything.

[WildBillyT]

New and previous gaskets are Fel-Pro. They are for the rectangle ports of the LS6 manifold. BTK and I installed this manifold and gaskets so I am pretty confident that it was done properly. I dont have a real good straight edge to check for "flatness", I have a few metal rules, but they are a bit too flexible to make an accurate judgement guess whether the flange area is not warped or anything.

Which heads?

Keep in mind I'm not questioning your or BTK's ability.

[PolarBear]

Which heads?

Both the "new" and old heads are oval ports. LS6 manifold was the only way to get a low rise manifold with the square bore carb. So the ports are MASSIVELY mis-matched :-? have to use the rectangle port gasket

[WildBillyT]

Torker II-O?

Granted it's old tech and single plane, but at least the ports match.

[PolarBear]

Oh, Scott. That silver on the car must be the original paint. Its paint code 64

[PolarBear]

Torker II-O?

Granted it's old tech and single plane, but at least the ports match.

I think that sits taller then the LS6 manifold. Had I really decided to keep the 454 I contemplated having the ports epoxied, so it could be matched to the large ovals

[PolarBear]

http://www.stainlessworks.net/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/c/v/cvls1_1.jpg


Are officially on order :drool: It's only money right? I figured f-it, im going to do it. and yes, I realize I am being vague.... see who can figgir it out

[B4C]

^the flanges look a lot like ls1 flanges.....

[Mike]

I know.

[PolarBear]

Those aren't BBC flanges?

[sweetbmxrider]

Those aren't BBC flanges?

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTbs4V-fFUMVnS5jULBfBYPDc7A4iSExwcvtdGXCgNkXAVp99Yfbg

They are with a drill!

[Featherburner]

I can see it now. Bear trying to install ls heads on the 454.

[PolarBear]

I can see it now. Bear trying to install ls heads on the 454.

You mean my low rise LS6 manifold wont work with the aluminum LS6 block I have in the garage?

[Featherburner]

You mean my low rise LS6 manifold wont work with the aluminum LS6 block I have in the garage?LS6 is LS6. With a drill and lots of self tapping screws and RTV anything is possible.:shock:

[PolarBear]

LS6 is LS6. With a drill and lots of self tapping screws and RTV anything is possible.:shock:

OK, thanks for clearing that up. I would think though, that the chambers in the cylinder head hanging past the end of the deck would have me loose some compression, should I just use duct tape and RTV to account for that? Use the duct tape as a mold, if you will....

[PolarBear]

Parts on the car! The shelf looses some value!

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130330_152949.jpg

[LTb1ow]

You aren't gonna paint the frame?

[PolarBear]

I wasn't planning on it, but I am going to be verbally berated unless I do. Engine is probably going to come out soon so I will pull the sub, strip it down and then have my cousin do it for me. May fix and paint the firewall too, if I think I have time.

[PolarBear]

Got the other shock bracket cut off tonight. Decided to weigh the parts before/after.

Old setup weighed 87.2 lbs (for both sides), shock bracket, old end links, upper and lower control arms, shocks and springs.

New setup; 62.8 lbs, Using Speedtech tubular lower control arms, SPC uppers, AFCO coilover shock, Hyperco springs and Keiths upper shock bracket

I will also soon be doing some LS1 brakes with some aluminum hubs, so I should lose a few more lbs from that too.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

If the car loses weight that leaves more room for deep fried hot dogs for lunch with the JSP crew!! Win Win!!

[BonzoHansen]

If the car loses weight that leaves more room for deep fried hot dogs for lunch with the JSP crew!! Win Win!!

did you miss the deep fat fryer being installed in place of the back seats?

[JSPERFORMANCE]

So deep fried hot dogs ANYTIME??!!??!!!

[Jersey Mike]

^ Now this is a build I can get interested in. :popcorn:

[PolarBear]

If the car loses weight that leaves more room for deep fried hot dogs for lunch with the JSP crew!! Win Win!!

Should lose another 250lbs or so in the near future.


The deep fryer is on order, now I just need to fab up a splash shield so I don't get burned while driving around corners

[JSPERFORMANCE]

What about the pizza oven so we can have some sicilian too?

[PolarBear]

Pizza oven may be a bit of an engineering challenge. Maybe we can integrate using the heat from the exhaust to heat some bricks or something, imitate pizza that has been on the grill? And sicilian makes sense since it is square, less wasted space in the cooking area

[BonzoHansen]

And the obligatory soft serve machine in the trunk and chocolate sauce dispensing side pipes?

[PolarBear]

And the obligatory soft serve machine in the trunk and chocolate sauce dispensing side pipes?

I guess I should get those Doug Thorley headers that Kevin posted, for the chocolate sauce. I don't know if there is room for the soft serve machine though.

[Tru2Chevy]

I don't know if there is room for the soft serve machine though.

What kind of poor attitude is that? Xzibit would make it fit!

http://i.qkme.me/3qp8bc.jpg

- Justin

[PolarBear]

What kind of poor attitude is that? Xzibit would make it fit!

http://i.qkme.me/3qp8bc.jpg

- Justin

I guess I don't need a passenger seat. Best effort to get it in the car!

Headers have arrived! :w00t:

[PolarBear]

I got the other side shock bracket welded on now and the suspension mocked up but the bolts I originally bought for the lower shock mount are too short, so I have to buy some new ones. I also decided I am just going to hit the bare metal with some rattle can paint for now. I have too many other things to buy to worry about getting the sub frame blasted and painted nice right now.

[sweetbmxrider]

You need to make room for a waffle maker :drool:

[WildBillyT]

I got the other side shock bracket welded on now and the suspension mocked up but the bolts I originally bought for the lower shock mount are too short, so I have to buy some new ones. I also decided I am just going to hit the bare metal with some rattle can paint for now. I have too many other things to buy to worry about getting the sub frame blasted and painted nice right now.

How gross is the subframe now? Rust and dirt or grease and undercoating?

[PolarBear]

It's not too bad, some of the factory black is still on it, light surface rust, some power steering fluid cuz one of the hoses leaked. Joe is going to clean and paint it now because I wasn't going to, lol.

[WildBillyT]

Gotcha. Undercoating is a bitch if you are blasting it.

[PolarBear]

Ok, David is painting the subframe now. The rest of the cast will look like crap, but not under the hood

[PolarBear]

He's not happy with it, it's too shiny. :rollseye: "I'm going to put another coat on it to dull it out some"

[WildBillyT]

What paint is he using? Did he reweld the seams while he was at it?

[PolarBear]

What paint is he using? Did he reweld the seams while he was at it?

I would have been the one to re-work the seams. If he or Joe hadn't done the painting I wouldn't have. It was too much and I didn't feel like doing it. Now that it is done it looks really good.

The paint was Eastwood Chassis Black. I thought it would be really nice, but its waaaay too glossy. I didn't care what it looked like, but he couldn't get it how he wanted it :rofl: so when he went to the store to get paint for the engine he got what he liked for other car, and it turned out REALLY nice. I think it was semi-flat black? He went over everything again and it looks great.

A few things happened today :shock:

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130406_192957.jpg

Then this;

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130406_192806.jpg

Then this;

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130406_195122.jpg

And finally they are going to look great together;

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130406_195150.jpg

Not to worry, that balancer/pulley has to be replaced with another. The LR4 looked terrible. It was COVERED in grease/oil, I honestly didnt think it was going to turn out that well, but I was pleasantly surprised. I got the aluminum pretty clean with some scotch brite and some "mag" wheel cleaner with the acid in it. I would like to to be brighter and less stains, but I would have to take all the cast stuff off, then bead it and then clear. I can live with it like this for now. I have sooooo much other stuff to do now and that is low on the priority list since now everything else is going to look like crap next to a clean/painted engine and sub-frame. I have to clean and paint everything else that is going in the engine compartment and on the engine.

Joe and I also contemplated putting Mike's engine in my car instead, not like he'd know for a while :shrug:

:kneeslap:

[PolarBear]

Ack, I just remembered, the booster looks like total dog crap right now. Another thing to clean :-?

[Mike]

Oh I'll know.

[PolarBear]

My new dinner plates came today :rofl:

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130408_191138.jpg

[//<86TA>\\]

Looking good james.

[PolarBear]

I had posted over at NastyZ that I got the Stainless works swap headers and they came with the motor mount adapter plates, but the ones I got were made wrong, they were too tall and hit the lower rail on the engine. I called SW and they were the ones that said they were made wrong, they were supposed to contact me today, but I didnt hear anything.
Regardless, my cousin and friend came over on Saturday and helped me for a few hours. When I told my cousin about the issue with the swap plates he said he "couldnt wait" another week to get the engine in the car so he ground the plates down to the proper height and painted them and the clamshells. Then around this time my uncle also came over and we all got the LR4 in the car.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130414_191409.jpg (http://s494.photobucket.com/user/notchbackgta/media/20130414_191409.jpg.html)

The headers are excellent! They practically fell into place in there, it does help that I dont have anything else there though. The brake line is in the way ever so slightly and I just have to pull it back a little on the left side to get the header into place. Also the headers basically in-line with my current exhaust, so I wont have to do much to get them together, just need some 3 bolt flanges that I can fit on the collectors and I should be ready to go.


Last night I also started on getting the harness ready as a "stand alone" I got about 3/4 of the way there last night. Taking off the loom and the harness tape is the most time consuming part of the whole job. It was also a lot less daunting once I got into it. I wouldnt hesitate to do it again. I worked on it a little more tonight. I have the harness on the engine now all draped on, layed where it will go in the end. For now I am just going to leave the ECM in the engine compartment, I am going to hid it on the back of the inner fender under the fender to keep it out of sight for the most part.

Once I start on the AAW Classic update body and engine harness Ill integrate the two together and try starting the engine before I get too far into putting the rest of the car back together.


I would also like to say a big "Thank you " to JS Performance for selling me the Headers and the AAW Classic update kit. Both are definitely worth the money.

Still waiting on parts! Waiting sucks :|

[JSPERFORMANCE]

There's a reason we only sell the best stuff.. There is so much aggrivation in this business, when you find a quality product that looks, fits, and lasts as good as it works you accept nothing less..

When are we putting the blower on it?

[The_Bishop]

Sharp looking conversion!

[BonzoHansen]

When are we putting the blower on it?

do it

[JSPERFORMANCE]

We have UNBEATABLE pricing on Prochargers!!!

Just sayin..

[Featherburner]

We have UNBEATABLE pricing on Prochargers!!!

Just sayin..He'd be a fool not to...

[LTb1ow]

Return those headers, get SW swept front turbo headers, and twin 6262's

[PolarBear]

We have UNBEATABLE pricing on Prochargers!!!

Just sayin..

I dont doubt that

When are we putting the blower on it?

Well if you want to donate one to the build.....

[JSPERFORMANCE]

We are not a charitable organization..

Call Jerry's kids and see if they will do a telethon for your Procharger fund.

[BonzoHansen]

Special Bear

[WildBillyT]

Well, it's the Black Pearl. Don't you have a stash of pirate gold or something?

[PolarBear]

Well, it's the Black Pearl. Don't you have a stash of pirate gold or something?

I havent quite taken over as the new "Dread Pirate Roberts" as of yet, so the stash of dabloons is limited and will not support an upgrade such as a boosted application for this car at t his time

[WildBillyT]

I got ya.

You can't fly the Jolly Roger just yet as you are still at the mildly amused Roger stage.

[PolarBear]

You can't fly the Jolly Roger just yet as you are still at the mildly amused Roger stage.

:rofl:


Actually I was going to start asking people on this board about finding dealers for Fikse's or know when they do their sale each year. I think with my brakes I am going to have to get new wheels sooner than I anticipated.

[PolarBear]

bought myself a little piece of insurance for my car, not necessarily this engine, but since it came already, I may as well put it in the car and on this engine. Canton was running a special batch of the black Accusumps and I really wanted one. :drool:

I am hoping it will fit under the radiator support under the radiator since it is a lot longer than I thought it was going to be :-P

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130418_200152.jpg (http://s494.photobucket.com/user/notchbackgta/media/20130418_200152.jpg.html)

Not much else to report since last time. I did a little more on the wiring harness as you can see in the picture a little. I have parts trickling in and more stuff to buy still. I almost am not looking forward to Englishtown this weekend and hanging out with my friends and cousin. I would rather work on the car.

[LTb1ow]

Le fancy pants

[PolarBear]

Le fancy pants

:nod:

I have a genuine concern/want for this actually. The sump in the oil pan I have is only around 4 quarts or something, unless I overfill all the time I could starve the engine quite quick in a turn. Ironically the Accusump alone was more than I paid for this engine :kneeslap: but the intent is also to protect what ever next engine I put in the car. Most likely a new crate engine.


Plus I really wanted it :rofl:

[chrisfrom nj]

ls motor with a few goodies under the hood updated brakes and suspension great work

[PolarBear]

I got the wiring harness about 95% completed today. I have two wires to lengthen, for the alternator, not sure why the truck harness had two and the car harness only had one wire. Then I have to wire in the relay for the fuel pump and fuses for the other ignition power and run wires for the ALDL. I also need a ECM mount too, since I didn't get that with the harness.

Need a fuel pressure regulator and then I can basically try to fire the engine up. Since I changed the cam sensor and I had no crank sensor I will need to do a re-learn, but I am not sure how to do that yet. Anyone know? If not I have a factory shop manual for a 99 F-car, that should tell me.

[WildBillyT]

I got the wiring harness about 95% completed today. I have two wires to lengthen, for the alternator, not sure why the truck harness had two and the car harness only had one wire. Then I have to wire in the relay for the fuel pump and fuses for the other ignition power and run wires for the ALDL. I also need a ECM mount too, since I didn't get that with the harness.

Need a fuel pressure regulator and then I can basically try to fire the engine up. Since I changed the cam sensor and I had no crank sensor I will need to do a re-learn, but I am not sure how to do that yet. Anyone know? If not I have a factory shop manual for a 99 F-car, that should tell me.

I am pretty sure some trucks could be ordered with dual alternators...

[PolarBear]

I am pretty sure some trucks could be ordered with dual alternators...

No, That's not it. One wire says turn on, as the car harness has, the other is labeled "Generator field duty cycle". I am wondering if that is a function of the ECM or the alternator. I'd rather only have the one wire

[WildBillyT]

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z06-discussion/2706928-alternator-issues-fed-up.html


The engine control module (ECM) uses the generator field duty cycle signal circuit to monitor the duty cycle of the generator. The generator field duty cycle signal circuit connects to high side of the field windings in the generator. A pulse width modulated (PWM) high side driver in the voltage regulator turns the field windings ON and OFF. The ECM uses the PWM signal input to determine the generator load on the engine. This allows the ECM to adjust the idle speed to compensate for high electrical loads. The ECM monitors the status of the generator field duty cycle signal circuit. When the ignition is ON and the engine is OFF, the ECM should detect a duty cycle near 0 percent. However, when the engine is running, the duty cycle should be between 5-95 percent.

[PolarBear]

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z06-discussion/2706928-alternator-issues-fed-up.html

So it appears it is a function of the alternator whether it needs the duty field cycle wire to be connected to the ECM. I am guessing the F-car alternator is in "charge" all the time, but the trucks have an "on demand" feature to try to salvage expected life from the rectifier circuit? Does that make sense? There is a LOT of information on that page.

At any rate, since I am going to use the truck alternator in the car and it is not a sensor where resistance is a big deal, I don't have any issue just extending the wires with some butt splices and heat shrink over them.

NINJA EDIT BASTARD!

[WildBillyT]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/255693_651852598173626_1787666703_n.jpg

Do it

[PolarBear]

Lol

[PolarBear]

Basically got my wiring harness finished today. All I have to do is integrate the harness into the AAW harness that I bought. I still need to buy some wire wrap, I am going to go with something like Techflex, it is a nylon weave that is split, you just spread it and put the wire in and tape the ends. The wire for the connectors and whatnot can come out where ever needed. The Holley harness that I have has it and I really liked it, so I want to use that.


http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130504_201217.jpg

[transmaro93]

didnt read through all the posts... lazylol... what color is this car going?

[PolarBear]

didnt read through all the posts... lazylol... what color is this car going?

In the end it will likely be 71 "Citrus green"

[PolarBear]

Ok, so I learned that the StainlessWorks headers won't work with my 3rd gen 5 speed bellhousing today. I ground down the bracket for the slave cylinder until it no longer interfered with the headers. Then and only then did I realize there was not enough room for the slave cylinder.
So looks like I am going to have to run an LS1 T56 instead of this aftermarket unit that I had in there in the first place. Now I will either have to rebuild the other transmission or find one that is better than the one I already have. And hopefully my driveshaft will still work, the hole in the trans tunnel etc.

[Jersey Mike]

Just the SW headers, or any LS1 headers? I have a couple pairs you could try, if you think a different manufacturer's design may clear your slave cylinder, and let you retain your primary transmission choice.

Besides, maybe I could use a LS1 T56, if you have one collecting dust :lol:

[Blackbirdws6]

Looks good. Should get the intake dipped with a carbon fiber pattern. T-bolt clamps for the intake eh?

[PolarBear]

Just the SW headers, or any LS1 headers? I have a couple pairs you could try, if you think a different manufacturer's design may clear your slave cylinder, and let you retain your primary transmission choice.

Besides, maybe I could use a LS1 T56, if you have one collecting dust :lol:

These are swap specific headers, I doubt anything else will work. They are also 1 7/8", I'm not getting different ones

Looks good. Should get the intake dipped with a carbon fiber pattern. T-bolt clamps for the intake eh?

Yuck, if it's not real carbon fiber it doesn't go on the car. T bolts as opposed to.....? Worm gear? I just got them with the silicone tubing.

[WSex]

header problems? turbo manifolds will fix that

[PolarBear]

No, transmission problems. I am staying N/A

[Blackbirdws6]

Dipped would look better than factory black plastic. T bolts are usually for boosted setups so I was just making a joking comment which didn't appear to be taken that way. They do look better than the cheapo standard clamps.

[PolarBear]

I may paint the manifold, it's a little dirty right now and it needs to be cleaned well before I tighten everything up. I despise the way the carbon fiber dip looks, I'd rather cover it in mud, or animal Crap first.
I like the worm gear clamps that have the extension to cover the gear path so the rubber can't extrude through the holes, but it was just easier to get the t bolt clamps when I bought the other stuff. In the end most of that stuff is going to wind up in the firebird anyway

[PolarBear]

Besides, maybe I could use a LS1 T56, if you have one collecting dust :lol:

Found another transmission already :rofl: You must be looking too hard. I'll have a bunch of stuff for you if you want to do a conversion though, Between Mike and I, we probably have what you need minus the trans...

[NastyEllEssWon]

These are swap specific headers, I doubt anything else will work. They are also 1 7/8", I'm not getting different ones



Yuck, if it's not real carbon fiber it doesn't go on the car. T bolts as opposed to.....? Worm gear? I just got them with the silicone tubing.



http://gyazo.com/6be198469b50a89bc31a38c4d131e4fa.png

http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/images/carbon-fiber-fuel-rail-covers.jpg



you can have your cake and eat it too...it'll just cost more :D

[Mike]

What is the point of light weight carbon fiber on covers that will add weight just by adding them

[Blackbirdws6]

What is the point of light weight carbon fiber on covers that will add weight just by adding them

If the pieces are entirely carbon fiber and you still want a cover, it would be the lightest option. I see what you are saying though.

[PolarBear]

You're right, I can have my cake and eat it too

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/samurai41/Picture074.jpg

http://stblogs.hotrod.com/files/2011/11/A_2056-623x415.jpg

http://image.vetteweb.com/f/26270067+w750+st0/vemp_0909_02_z+performance_ls_engine+kinsler_intak e_manifold_carbon_fiber_ram_tubes.jpg

Ijust don't want or need those for a stock 4.8

[PolarBear]

I could buy a CF intake for SBC too. My friend makes a carbon fiber intake replacement for the Holley stealth ram

[PolarBear]

For ****s and giggles I grabbed the LH side 3rd gen swap header and tried it in the Camaro. It would probably fit and work with a standard LS T56, but it hits the clutch slave bracket in a different way.
Oh well, lined up another T56 anyway, going to pick it up Saturday, in New Hampshire :shock:

[PolarBear]

OK, so with the "new" transmission I have to move things around a bit, or buy another driveshaft. Considering that I bought this driveshaft and I dont really want to buy another one, I decided that since the LS T56 bellhousing is ~1" shorter than what I had in there I will just move the engine back the necessary amount. I pulled the LR4 and T56 out and put them to the side and put the LS1 T56 on my mockup block with the adapter plates and clamshells attached, also with the heads, intake and headers on and put it in the car to see how everything is going to work. Since the shifter sits about 3" rearward on this transmission I knew I was going to have to cut the shifter/tunnel hole larger anyway, plus the shifter base is longer on the LS1 T56. I just had to cut into the body brace in the transmission tunnel, if I wasnt moving the engine I wouldn't have gotten into it at all.

Here is how the front of the engine sits now, it is a little difficult to tell since I dont have a front cover for this engine, but the front of the engine sits about even with the centerline of the front wheels now. Moving the engine back a whole 1.25" and the LS engines are ~1" shorter than Gen 1-3 SBC's I should have a good line on space and weight distribution. When I had the BBC in the car I had about 3/4" or less between the water pump and fan, now I am thinking it will be close to 4" space

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130608_205707.jpg

There is still about an inch of space from the firewall to the back of the heads, the back of the intake sits about 1/2" to the firewall, the headers are in no danger of hitting the floor or firewall. I think this is going to work out fairly well.

Tomorrow I need to put the transmission crossmember in and make sure that I have enough tunnel room all around the transmission. I have the trans jacked "into place" but I want to make sure the crossmember goes in properly. It is fully adjustable front-to-back so I just need to loosen the bolts and slide it back, if at all. I am only worried about tunnel clearance because Scott had interference issues at the front of the transmission in his '77, but I think the consensus was that the later cars have different tunnels than early cars.

[PolarBear]

Bolted the trans crossmember in the car, didnt even have to move it because the mounting pad has slotted holes. I would highly recommend that crossmember to anyone with a second gen.

After the crossmember was in I put the driveshaft in, that was all good too. There is still plenty of space all the way around the trans in the tunnel too.

Also got the holes drilled to move the clam shell mounts back 1.25" inches. Once I weld in some metal to close up the shifter hole a bit, since the other transmission shifter was so much farther forward, I can put the engine and transmission back in for the last time (that is until I get a new engine). I also plan on bench bleeding the clutch master and slave so I dont have to mess with that in the car at all. I didnt get a remote bleeder and I dont see how it would be possible to do that in the car. Still have to find the Tick master I bought though, I lost it in the house..... :rofl:

[Jersey Mike]

http://ls1tech.com/forums/new-products-showcase/1645346-carbon-fiber-valve-covers-sdpc.html

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j68/z_driver1/SDPC/11635_427115670703818_1976075912_n_zps1a0290c7.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j68/z_driver1/SDPC/856361_427115687370483_398251863_o_zpsc5d19f6e.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j68/z_driver1/SDPC/882085_427115677370484_1242383341_o_zps21003141.jp g

[PolarBear]

http://ls1tech.com/forums/new-products-showcase/1645346-carbon-fiber-valve-covers-sdpc.html

Thanks, I found those years ago :rofl: I already have the CF covers for my BBC

[PolarBear]

Got a little more done today. I welded the shifter hole closed a bit since the LS T56 is longer and I moved the shifter back.

[PolarBear]

So, I haven't been getting done as much as I would like on the car because of work and work stress, but I set a goal for this weekend; get the engine and transmission back in the car. I managed to get that completed, despite the horrendous humidity. I also managed to get this completed while helping Zorns with his car.
So the engine and trans are back in the car, hopefully for the last time with this iteration of engine/transmission combo. I bead blast the bellhousing and painted it since it was pretty grody. I also "bench" bled the hydraulic clutch setup so I didn't have to worry about a remote bleeder or try to mess with it in the car. This was much easier than I expected. I was actually able to get all the air out of the setup without actually bleeding it. I just put pressure on the slave and pushed in the master. I did this several times and after a few minutes I stopped hearing air moving in the system. After this I cracked the bleeder and pushed in the master and no air came out. I bled the master until all the dirty fluid came out. Hopefully all the air is out and I don't have to worry about it again.

With work stress and everything else, I just need to keep telling myself "do one thing today". Scott Quoted that one time from Steilow and I think it is great advice. I have to stop thinking about the project as a whole and just pick off small pieces and it will get completed before I know it.

I hope to get the spindles bead blasted again and painted so I can get the front suspension reassembled and make the car a roller by the weekend. I also got the proper outer bearing for my aluminum Kore3 hubs to work with my early 2nd gen spindles from my GTA since I am not using them on that car right now.

[Blackbirdws6]

Progress is good and another piece of advice is to make a nice detailed list of "to do's". With any build, there are so many small and large items to tackle. You can try and keep it in your head but from first hand experience, you end up constantly thinking about the build so you don't forget anything.

[PolarBear]

Progress is good and another piece of advice is to make a nice detailed list of "to do's". With any build, there are so many small and large items to tackle. You can try and keep it in your head but from first hand experience, you end up constantly thinking about the build so you don't forget anything.

Yeah, that is good advice, but if I were to do that I would have an entire book :shock:

Seriously though, I do write some things that I may forget. I have a crayon and I write stuff on the windsheild, like "no oil", no trans fluid etc. Right now I just get out there and think about what I have done and if I cant remember, I just double check everything.

[BonzoHansen]

Bear does not believe in plans!

[PolarBear]

Bear does not believe in plans!

:scratch:


Didn't I say I had a plan for the weekend......

[LTb1ow]

Start adding crap to an excel spreadsheet and group it by priority or whats needed for first start.

Mine sort of worked out well.

[BonzoHansen]

:scratch:


Didn't I say I had a plan for the weekend......

but not for the project.

[Blackbirdws6]

Yeah, that is good advice, but if I were to do that I would have an entire book :shock:

Seriously though, I do write some things that I may forget. I have a crayon and I write stuff on the windsheild, like "no oil", no trans fluid etc. Right now I just get out there and think about what I have done and if I cant remember, I just double check everything.

Your last comment would drive me insane. If I had to double check everything, my build would have taken years. When all the little small things need to be gone through, remembering them all will be a challenge. If that's how you work then that's fine. I just know when I did my build, my photographic memory served me well but the list is what kept me sane. Felt good checking stuff off the list too.

So what's next for you to do?

[WildBillyT]

Start adding crap to an excel spreadsheet and group it by priority or whats needed for first start.

Mine sort of worked out well.

I did the same thing. I broke it out by the different systems on the car, what doing each job will cost, and how much time I estimated it would take.

[PolarBear]

but not for the project.

I have an overall. I dont really need to put it on paper.... I change my mind about stuff frequently, so that would get old. Plus I buy new things and makes double work for me, no big deal. I dont care how long it takes me. After I complete all this the car may come apart for body work anyway.

Your last comment would drive me insane. If I had to double check everything, my build would have taken years. When all the little small things need to be gone through, remembering them all will be a challenge. If that's how you work then that's fine. I just know when I did my build, my photographic memory served me well but the list is what kept me sane. Felt good checking stuff off the list too.

So what's next for you to do?

I dont double check EVERYTHING, just key things. Right now I can tell you most of the stuff I havent done or things that are only finger tight at the moment.

After I do the spindles, bead blast my calipers, paint them and then reassemble them as I should be ordering my wheels in the next few weeks. And I want to get the car to "roller" status so it isnt necessarily trapped in the garage anymore. I would like to roll the car out and sweep the floor real well. With all the grinding and leaves the floor has a lot of crap on it.

After that is put my V bands on the headers, weld the 45 degree bends to longer pieces of stainless to replace the existing mild steel pieces of the exhaust so I can put the other side of the V bands on that and finish the exhaust. After that, the interior needs to come out and I think I am going to put the subframe connectors in the car while the interior is out for the new AAW wiring harness.

I did the same thing. I broke it out by the different systems on the car, what doing each job will cost, and how much time I estimated it would take.
I have a detailed spreadsheet with all the things I have bought. I don't have labor on there though.

[sweetbmxrider]

If your style of work suits you, stick with it. We all do things differently.

[PolarBear]

It may not look like much, but I got my calipers painted and rebuilt. I am not happy with the way they turned out, but I know for next time if I ever use this paint again.

I dont have any pictures of the process, but I wound up getting used calipers that were really bad looking from brake dust. I took them completely apart, bead blasted them to clean aluminum, painted them, put new O-rings, dust boots, pins, hardware and rattle clips.

It was so hot yesterday and I was using a two part paint, part A and B, so it has a cure time. Unfortunately because it was so hot the second coat, as the directions say to do, was too tacky and the brush wound up pulling the first coat and made it look bad. I wound up putting some reducer in the paint after I got the second coat on and the abutment brackets came out pretty nice since coat after coat the paint wasn't so tacky.

Here is one, all rebuilt and loaded, ready to go on the spindle when I get the spindle painted.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130721_185253.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130721_185309.jpg

I didn't take a picture, but I also painted the driveshaft with the paint since I had about half the paint left after the calipers and abutments. normally I wouldn't paint stuff like this with a brush, but I figured what the heck. You can see all the brush strokes on the driveshaft, but I kind of like how it came out.

[sweetbmxrider]

How would you describe the finish?

[PolarBear]

Somewhere between brush strokes and tiger stripes?

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130721_192151.jpg

[sweetbmxrider]

You ain't got nothin on Mark42

[PolarBear]

You ain't got nothin on Mark42

Huh?

[sweetbmxrider]

Huh?

Fuggin really?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v437/mark42/1998%20Firebird/HPIM6487.jpg (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49714)

[PolarBear]

Fuggin really?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v437/mark42/1998%20Firebird/HPIM6487.jpg (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49714)

I dont get it, but OK. Mine is chromeoly :shrug: and I have a carbon fiber one in the basement....

[Jersey Mike]

Mark42 polished his stock aluminum driveshaft--the one you see above.
I mimicked his, but didn't go nearly as far with the polishing as he did.

[PolarBear]

Re blasted my spindles tonight since they flash rusted after I hit them the first time when I cleaned and got them ready to send to Keith at Customworks for modifying and drill/tap for the brake brackets. One of Keith's friend made him a nice spindle jig to hold the pin so the holes for the brake bracket are 90 degrees to the pin when drilling.

Also got the spindles painted too. I am hoping to get the suspension all buttoned up and back together this weekend.
Hopefully I can get one side assembled with a hub each night so they are ready to put on the car on Saturday. I am using the hubs from my 91 GTA. I bought new outer bearings with races since the pin diameter is .750" compared to the later spindles at .840" Eventually I'll buy another set of hubs from Kore3 with 1/2" studs so I don't have a metric stud on the front and standard on the rear. For now I'll use these hubs since they are not being used.

I also need to get the pitman arm off the old steering box to put on the 600 series steering box I have for the car.

[PolarBear]

Teaser shot of the brakes on the spindle, dry assembled for now.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130725_200308.jpg

[The_Bishop]

Sharp looking.

Hey, on the caliper painting front... I painted the calipers on my '98 after rebuilding/replacing. Glass beaded the outside, then painted them with Duplicolor ceramic engine paint in red. Been holding up very well, cleans up easy, and no brushing.

[PolarBear]

Well I got a few things done today. I got the suspension basically done in the front. I cant tighten up all the upper control arm pivot points until I get my alignment set. I got the hubs on too, I forgot what I pain in the ass it is to pack bearings.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130727_135642.jpg

Also I weighed the stock brakes with the spindles, came out to ~54.4 lbs and has a 10" rotor. The new setup weighed in at 49.6 and is a 13" rotor! So with the tubular control arms and the coilover setup with the lighter brake package I am saving about 17 pounds of weight per side! I think 1/2 that weight is unsprung, so that is a great thing to lose so much.

I also got the shifter hole for the transmission trimmed and the transmission bolted in, driveshaft in.

[WildBillyT]

Stock control arms are heavier than they look!

Car looks great. I love the headers especially. Look really bad ass.

[PolarBear]

And the stock giant springs too

[Blackbirdws6]

Looks good!

[deadtrend1]

Nice. I use the schringe and plate tool to pack bearings.. I could never do it right by hand

[sweetbmxrider]

I like packing bearings by hand, pretty easy to me.

[PolarBear]

More progress today. Since I have new headers and I couldn't find the same flanges as I had on the BBC headers I had to do something else. The headers are stainless and I like the idea of the V-bands and they come in stainless too, so I decided to use them. I had to grind out the inside of the flanges so they would slip over the collectors, that took some time. I did the first one and after a few passes it still didn't fit over. The problem was that I couldn't really tell where I had already been over. I took some layout fluid and put it on a towel and wiped it on the inside so I could see where I had been grinding. After I did that on the second one it went much better and faster.

I also got the pipes cut and mocked up to replace the old pieces I was taking out of the exhaust. I am not happy with the end result because the exhaust on the car kind of sucks. I would just get something pre-fab, but I don't want to spend the money on exhaust right now. I'll do something better/nicer once I get the next engine in the car.

Tomorrow is welding up the v-bands to the headers and the intermediate pipes. I'll post some pictures of the welding tomorrow. This will finish up most of the under-car work until I re-do the battery trunk relocation and the emergency brake cables.
If I wasn't in such a depressed state I think I would be more excited about getting all of this done.

[transmaro93]

any progress is good man... im in same boat with my project taking way longer then expected, but just gotta keep thinking of your finished result and how awesome it will be. thats what keeps me going at least. your car is going to be a pretty bad ass ride when done.

[PolarBear]

I'm not going to post a picture of my actual welds, since they suck. My hands shake to much to really get a good weld and I also need a smaller diameter filler as what I had was too large. If my hands didn't shake so much I think I could actually get good at it.

Anyway, I had to do this to get the weld "in position" so I could attack it with a preferred angle. It looks crazy, but it helped a lot.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/20130804_151547.jpg

I got all the pieces welded up, but I didnt get as much other stuff done as I wanted. At least it wasnt so hot that I sweat my ass off just standing in the garage

[transmaro93]

tigged it huh? im gonna get my self set up to mig stainless soon because i gotta do my exhaust too. never done it before. as long as they hold and dont leak then your golden man. nobody is ever going to see your collector welds lol

[PolarBear]

tigged it huh? im gonna get my self set up to mig stainless soon because i gotta do my exhaust too. never done it before. as long as they hold and dont leak then your golden man. nobody is ever going to see your collector welds lol

Yeah, I have the TIG, on long term loan from a friend that wont use it again until his kids grow up, lol. another 14 years or so :rofl:

I would have gotten stainless wire for my MIG, but I didnt want to get Tri-mix for doing that

[Featherburner]

Yeah, I have the TIG, on long term loan from a friend that wont use it again until his kids grow up, lol. another 14 years or so :rofl:

I would have gotten stainless wire for my MIG, but I didnt want to get Tri-mix for doing thatI bought a Tri-mix tank and stainless wire for my mig. I used it to install wideband O2 bungs in my ARH longtubes for the G8 and the welds came out great.

[PolarBear]

Went over one of my headers with some red Scotch Brite to give them the brushed look. I am really digging the way they look now. After I get them in the car I'll go over them again to get all the fingerprints off.

I also got some of my plumbing figured out for the fuel lines. I am going to be able to mount the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the drivers side head, most of the lines will be hidden behind the engine, it should look good when I am finished.

Also I bought one of these tubing benders from Rigid. It was really easy to bend the stainless 3/8" tubing that I have been using. It was a little expensive, but I figure I am going to bend quite a bit more tubing and this one does 180 degree bends. I was using Phil's 3 size combination bender and it was a lot more difficult to bend the tubing since it has such short arms. I am glad I got this one. I have to bend up the line for the pressure feed and from the tee to the rail and I plan on making a hard tube for the PCV and the brake booster. I made the hard tube for the brake booster on the BBC and I liked the way it came out. http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/7C6CE5EF77914977B9106C34658B3B1A/400_Series_Benders_3C.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Fuel reg cannot be mounted on fire wall, and I know you said on back of head, but tech may throw a red flag at the proximity. Just sayin'

[PolarBear]

Fuel reg cannot be mounted on fire wall, and I know you said on back of head, but tech may throw a red flag at the proximity. Just sayin'

For what? Drag racing? This engine wont ever see a racetrack and my next engine wont need a FPR in the front. I only put it there because of convenience. I have a bunch of parts lying around that I am trying to use and this was the best place for it

[LTb1ow]

Yea, I know for drag racing them be the rules, not sure how it applies to you silly people with turning cars.

[BonzoHansen]

Might want to question why nhra has such a rule, might be a good reason. I don't know why though.

[LTb1ow]

Might want to question why nhra has such a rule, might be a good reason. I don't know why though.

For when you lose a clutch/converter etc, and it slices up wards.

I think there is a measurement for the fuel reg/fuel lines/brake lines off of bellhousing BTW.

"Fuel blocks must be located at least 6-inches (15.2 cm) forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area. "

[sweetbmxrider]

Will there be an issue running a solid line to the brake booster? Since the motor shakes and ****.

[PolarBear]

There will be short pieces of hose at either end

[transmaro93]

what do you use to tig stainless just straight argon?

[PolarBear]

Yes, I used straight argon. I think you can use a 5% mix of CO2, but I dont think it is necessary in most cases. I have a tall cylinder of Argon and a small 25% cylinder CO2 for my MIG

[The_Bishop]

For what it's worth, I wouldn't put the regulator on the head. The heat is going to be bad for it's durability, and will warm the fuel up.

[PolarBear]

I didnt think about that. It is good advise, but for the moment I am going ahead with that since I have all the parts I need for the plumbing. I actually entertained the idea of the regulator on the return under the brake booster, but I like the way this is coming out better. I can still switch to that design if I choose.
This engine is probably not going to see track time, just a cruiser until I can buy the new engine in the spring. Since this is a truck engine and it uses a return I am staying with that configuration. The next engine is going to be a car gen IV engine and I will then move the regulator to the rear and the pressure line will be dead-headed at the rails like the cars are currently using.

At the rate I am going, this engine will never actually see the road, lol. I am going to have to re-do work one way or another. If I cant get my wheels soon I am going to have to put the stock brakes back on. If I do this, then I may see a few days on the road in the fall and nice days into the beginning of winter.
If I do get my wheels soon the delivery will be sometime in the late fall and I wont be driving it until spring most likely. Come tax/bonus time I will be buying the engine I really want and changing out the engine after I get that. All of this current work is not in vain since it is "mockup" for the next engine regardless. If I get this engine running and actually drive it, it is just a bonus.

I think I am about two weekends from being able to try to fire up the engine. I have to mount my ECM and then wire in the power, tach, etc to the car.

[PolarBear]

Well, I didn't get a lot done this weekend since I went to NJMP to see Lemon's on Saturday

I made a tubing straightener based on another person's design over at NastyZ. It didnt work as well as I hoped though. I had bought Summit's 3/8" stainless tubing to make my fuel lines, it was quite a pain to try to straighten since it comes in a large coil ~1.5" diameter. It was difficult and time consuming. Here is the link (http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2917662&postcount=242) to the build at NastyZ and Here is the link (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=549153&page=17) to the guy he designed it off. I just bolted my stuff to a flat piece of 3/16 aluminum and spaced the rollers appropriately. It took some trial and error to get the spacing right, but it is a lot faster than trying to un-bend by hand. I was disappointed because the tubing still has a bit of an arc to it, but I guess that is the problem with the stainless, it is too hard. Also the tubing mucked up the ends of the rollers. I'll have to re-do the setup on pieces of angle like it shows in the build. For now I had everything but the rollers.

So after I finished the straightener, I made this nice little PCV tube for my 4.8. Yeah, yeah, I know, catch can..... I'll worry about that later if it is a problem.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130811_183241.jpg

I also got the headers in the car, hopefully for the last time. I just have to tighten up the bolts, I just snugged them so they touched the head. I'll tighten them when I know I wont have to take them out again before the first start. You can see the LH side in place in the picture. I went over it again with Scotch Brite before I put it in too. Just have to wipe it down to get my fingerprints off meow.

Tomorrow i'll order a few more things I need from McMaster Carr. I need a variety of stuff to mount/space the ECM off the firewall over the AC delete plate under the fender.

I think I can actually see the end of the spending for this damn build.

[PolarBear]

I got my new car balancer on the engine tonight. I would like to thank Featherburner for letting me borrow his LS balancer puller tool, don't worry man, I'll give it back in the next year or so. I have an ARP bolt to replace the one I took out, but I will need to borrow a tarq-rench from someone as mine only goes to 200 lb-ft

I also got my Tick clutch master cylinder mounted tonight. I bout this from Mike since the buyer for his T56 didn't need it. I am glad it was the old style with the steel bracket. I had to drill out the mounting holes since aluminum bracket they sell now is threaded and wouldn't work with my firewall bracket as easily. Eventually I'll take the bracket off and clean up the wolds and repaint it. I also have to figure out how to get a boot behind it to seal up the firewall hole.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130815_211100.jpg

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130815_211048.jpg

Need to get a clamp on that fuel line so it doesn't move any closer to the steering column once it's all put back together.

[PolarBear]

I was not as motivated today to do anything. Made up my regulator-to-rail fuel line and my brake booster line.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130818_130924.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130818_130934.jpg

I also got my Electronic Counter Measures mounted on the firewall over where the blower motor would be. Then I threw the fender on after to see how it looks. Hidden pretty well and the hood hinge should help hide it more once everything is back together

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130818_161109.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130818_161232.jpg

[LTb1ow]

Are you going to trim the harness?

[Featherburner]

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130818_130924.jpg

IDK Bear, this picture strengthens my position on the PCV line!

[PolarBear]

Are you going to trim the harness?

It's not done yet. I'll have a draid over it to hide it when I am satisfied with it.

IDK Bear, this picture strengthens my position on the PCV line!

Pick! Pick! Pick! You won't see it from your house.

[Featherburner]

.
Pick! Pick! Pick! You won't see it from your house.But...I just did!:-P

[PolarBear]

But...I just did!:-P

:facepalm: Should I take the picture down? Would that make you feel better? :rofl:

[sweetbmxrider]

So when's first start? :)

[PolarBear]

End of the weekend? I took a few days off from work to get as much done as possible. I should be able to get all the points completed that I need for starting, but tuning out the VATS and other may hold me from starting it though. I have HP Tuners, but I haven't messed with it at all since I got it a few years ago.

[Mike]

You can use resistors to disable vats while you research the tuning. Search for it on ls1tech

[V]

im pretty sure vats is just an option box you click in the one table on hp tuners. on or off. once the vin is registered, it should be no more that 10 min to copy the tune, modify it, and rewrite it onto the pcm.

edit: I just went through my hp tuners. The option box is under the "system" menu, under the "general" tab(next to the "fans" tab). Then its under the heading "security". The options are "serial", "PWM", or None. (stock f body is PWM) "None" should turn it off.

[PolarBear]

You can use resistors to disable vats while you research the tuning. Search for it on ls1tech

I have to change the injector constant too at the very least since i am using a car manifold and car (F-body injectors)


edit: I just went through my hp tuners. The option box is under the "system" menu, under the "general" tab(next to the "fans" tab). Then its under the heading "security". The options are "serial", "PWM", or None. (stock f body is PWM) "None" should turn it off.

Thanks, that will be helpful but I have read of other people getting it disabled and then it comes back there is more than one place where it needs to be disabled? Also, I have an 0411 Truck ECM too.

[WildBillyT]

I have to change the injector constant too at the very least since i am using a car manifold and car (F-body injectors)



Thanks, that will be helpful but I have read of other people getting it disabled and then it comes back there is more than one place where it needs to be disabled? Also, I have an 0411 Truck ECM too.

When I had the '95 T/A (yes, I know it may be different by year) there was something that needed to be turned off in the PCM and also a wire that needed to be jumpered to bypass a relay connection to completely disable VATS. Clicking the checkbox in HPTunas will only disable part of it.

[PolarBear]

I think with the LSx it is only necessary in the ECM, and I think I know what you're talking about. The VATS would also ground the relay for the starter enable, you had to disable in the ECM and then bypass the VATS module connected on the starter relay inside the car. Since I dont have that, I dont have to worry about it

[PolarBear]

I got a few things done today. I finished up the fuel lines, I just have to tighten up a few fittings underneath the car and then I can test for leaks.

Also, here is my take on the steam tube issue, Most people drill and tap a place on the water pump, which I never thought was a good idea, if your water pump fails on a trip you can't just change it on the fly. Instead I decided to tap the water outlet and plumb in the fitting there.

Up top under thethrottle body area
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130822_141320.jpg

This is what I did underneath
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/notchbackgta/73%20Camaro%206%20speed%20swap/20130822_141328.jpg

It is hardly even visible once everything is all there in the engine compartment. I also went with the pinch clamps because I didnt like the normal options for really small hose like that. The tube is only 3/16"


I also got the fittings sorted and installed for my oil pressure sender. I wound up mounting it behind the intake manifold. I wish Autometer didnt have such a huge sender for the short sweep gauges.

Tomorrow should be filling the engine with oil and cranking to see if I get oil pressure

[PolarBear]

I found the post where someone put water in the Holley oil pan, Here (http://ls1tech.com/forums/15494061-post413.html). The holley pan held about 4 quarts of water, and the JZ Motorworks pan has a little less capacity. The Holley is rated to hold 5 quarts, so I should be able to "overfill" the pan to 5 quarts without worrying.

[PolarBear]

Got a little more done today. I got the wiring done, but real quick and dirty like, it looks like complete crap.

I got all the way up to priming the fuel system, then I realized I plumbed my regulator wrong so I have to figure out what I am going to do to fix with what I have. I think it is going to take some crazy tubing magic to make it work and its going to look terrible.

I was stuck in my own head all daiye (spelling reference?) and I am going to a friends house for a while, otherwise I would stick it out and keep at it.

I at least feel like I am close to trying to start this now.

[PolarBear]

Re-did my fuel lines and set my fuel pressure. I downloaded HP Tuners and hopefully turned off and set what I needed to properly. Then I proceeded to start the engine, took a few seconds at first when I was cranking the first time. Scared the crap out of me since I had the garage door closed.

Now I have to block off the two vacuum leaks, one is the brake booster and there is another port on the side of the intake manifold behind the throttle body on the RH side. After I get that sorted, I need to do do the re-learn for the cam and crank sensors. The GM book says I need a scan tool to do that, do I need a special tool to do that? Or can I get it done with HP Tuners or a generic scan tool?

Now I need an air filter, another few elbows once I get the whole front end back on. Also need a belt, PS fluid, a different lower radiator hose and coolant. That SHOULD be close to the last of the items I need to buy. I also decided that I am going to put the stock brakes back on the car for now. I already bead blasted the calipers and painted them, I now have to take the rotors off the spindles so I can clean and paint everything and get it back on the car.

Stretch goal is to have the car back together and drivable for the September meet. With a little extra time put in after work I think that shouldn't be too hard in the time I have to work with before then.

[sweetbmxrider]

Cool brah.

[PolarBear]

I downloaded a stock tune for a manual trans F-body and compared against my auto trans ECM. Looks like I need to make quite a few more changes to the ECM to make them match. Played around with matching the config here at work today, will upload when I get home tonight

[Blackbirdws6]

I likely missed this but why did you download a tune for a manual Fbody and not an auto fbody?

[PolarBear]

I likely missed this but why did you download a tune for a manual Fbody and not an auto fbody?

I have an 0411 PCM that came with/for this engine. The engine is from a 2001 Silverado with an auto, so I have basically just changed the items in the pcm that I need to start it, and since I used a car intake and injectors the constant for them. I wasn't sure what I needed to do to make it work OK for a manual transmission.

Oh and I turned off all the DTC's related to stuff I wont have, rear O2's, air injection, EGR, etc

[PolarBear]

Thanks to the good Folk at JS Performance, it seems I shouldn't need to do a re-learn even though I changed my cam and crank sensor.

This is good news

[LTb1ow]

Why not just upload the M6 tune and get rid of the truck tune completely?

A true M6 tune will be very different from an auto..

[PolarBear]

Why not just upload the M6 tune and get rid of the truck tune completely?

A true M6 tune will be very different from an auto..

I may wind up doing that in the long run but for now I am going to leave it this way. I figured shutting all the Auto stuff off is easier than putting in the tables from the 4.8 into the 5.7 tune. I'll screw with it all in time, even if I keep the OBDII connector where it is, it is close to the passenger side door, so I can put the HP tuners cable through the window (or my old grommet from when I had the Holley system in the car) and mess with it on the fly.



Picked up my vacuum caps on the way home from work. I think I'll go out there and see if it runs any better today.

[LTb1ow]

HPtunes doesn't let you adjust on the fly, tis no XFI :lol: