Anyody here want to convert my R12 System to R22?

[edpontiac91]

Had the Formula out yesterday (93*) and all my A/C did was blow out hot air. I called a Goodyear store and they wanted $384.00 (including tax):shock:. I would pay for your time and materials. Thanks for any help in advance.:cold:

[PolarBear]

Isn't R22 a refrigerant for house/commercial use?

[WildBillyT]

Isn't R22 a refrigerant for house/commercial use?

R22 is also banned since 2010 and is being phased out. Probably doesn't have the right oil, either. R134a is the stuff to use now I think. They make kits for it, too.

[edpontiac91]

R22 is also banned since 2010 and is being phased out. Probably doesn't have the right oil, either. R134a is the stuff to use now I think. They make kits for it, too.

Yeah, brain dead moment. It is R134a. I think you need to pump ALL the old R12 out.

[PolarBear]

When you go to 134a, you also have to clean the old oil out too

[edpontiac91]

When you go to 134a, you also have to clean the old oil out too

That's why I want somebody who is familiar with the procedure on switching out the old and in with the new. You also need to evacuate the system (which will require a machine to do that) and install new fittings.

[BonzoHansen]

At minimum you need a new dryer as well, and an orafice tube. Plus you need to determine what else is wrong since it isn't working.

[The_Bishop]

Having worked on auto AC before, please flush the old stuff out. Seriously. Those kits are *bad* news. Look up 'black death' in auto AC. You'll have to replace every component if you use one of those kits and this happens.

[Stevoone]

A lot of people just get the r134 retrofit kit (fittings and oil) and charge it with the new refrigerant. The correct way to go would be to find a shop with a machine capable of flushing the A/C system and also replace the dryer and Thermal expansion valve/orifice tube depending on the car. I don't remember if 3rd gens had an expansion valve or an orifice tube. R134 is not compatible with the oil used in old r12 systems and you will have issues if the correct oil is not used and even if the wrong amount of oil is added.

Flushing can be a labor intensive process if the car is equipped with an expansion valve as they are mounted on the evaporator and have to be removed in order to run the flush.

With all that said I've done a few myself where all I did was install the fittings, vacuum the system for 30 min then added oil and charged with r134. I haven't had any issues with the ones I've done that way but it's really not the correct way to change it over.

If you decide to have if flushed just keep in mind that not all A/C machines have the capability of performing a flush, I would double check with the shop about there machine before you have anything done.

[stoney2677]

There are replacements like freeze 12. It's not a drop in but works with the same oil, fittings, etc. I would check on that. Still have to get rid of all the 12 and evacuate. Not a car ac guy so someone jump in if I'm wrong.

[TaKid455]

Why not fix your system and install R12? Yes its tough to find, but works very well and will last a long time. It can be found. To do the proper conversion, it is sometimes cheaper vs labor to simple install new parts. There are flushing systems in the trade field not available to regular walk-ins at the parts store. They are decent and do work. If the $400 estimate included a full flush, new freon, new O rings and accumulator, Thats a good deal.

Comparable freons like Freeze 12 do work but some are propane based which not dont cool as well but in some cases destroy the compressor shaft and bushings therefor killing the compressor. I have had success w/ freeze 12 but it gets cool, not cold.

Is there a Sanden / new style compressor conversion for 3rd gens?

Somehow most A/C system repairs are always around 600-1000. Parts arent cheap.

[ThoR294]

R12 is mad expensive. It is better, but its better to just use R134A. I thought on newer cars it was usually just new seals and oil

[BonzoHansen]

R12 is mad expensive. It is better, but its better to just use R134A. I thought on newer cars it was usually just new seals and oilnot if you want to do it right. and his car is 22 years old.

i did my 93 truck last fall. drier, orafice, seals and condenser - it was a bit beat up and they are large to flush. we flushed the lines & evap. did compressor because the front seal had gone bad. which gets back to the what is wrong with it now point.

[WSex]

you can get cans of r12 relatively cheap,
then check with mani gauges.
orifice screen is easy and so is the drier(accumulator).

[WSex]

R22 is also banned since 2010 and is being phased out. Probably doesn't have the right oil, either. R134a is the stuff to use now I think. They make kits for it, too.

stopped being made but still sold.

[B4C]

You can still get r12...if iirc you need to be certified to buy it but the cert is like $30 and you have to take a short test.
http://www.auto-associates.com/products.asp

[BonzoHansen]

real AC shops have lots of R12

[Featherburner]

real AC shops have lots of R12
Me too.

[BonzoHansen]

Me too.

i sold all mine :)

[Tru2Chevy]

Me too.

Same here. Only problem is my dad's R12 machine was stolen not long ago :shock:

- Justin

[Featherburner]

i sold all mine :)How much did you get for it?

[BonzoHansen]

IIRC dinner, I sold it to a friend

[Featherburner]

IIRC dinner, I sold it to a friendWell, I have 40lbs.

[PolarBear]

Well, I have 40lbs.

Guy on my Van pool at work has ~30lbs I am trying to buy from him

[BonzoHansen]

Gut on my Van pool at work has ~30lbs I am trying to buy from him

And you need that why?

[PolarBear]

Why do I buy any of the stuff I have? Plus I have a car that uses R12

[Stevoone]

The local parts store I use still has small cans of R12. I have the certification to buy it but we don't service too many r12 cars anymore. Last car I charged with R12 was a 1970ish Cadillac with a charge weight of close to 3lbs and I remember the 12oz cans being in the range of $50 at the customers cost.