Log in

View Full Version : stubborn brake bracket bolts..


madness410
06-12-2013, 08:05 PM
i checked my rear brakes recently and decided time to do new pads and rotors. I get into it today pop the wheels off and the caliper slid off fine but got to the brackets and the two bolts behind there wouldn't budge. so i hit it with dw40 and let it sit..try it again..still wont budge. hit with a hammer a few times to loosen it up a bit..dw40 again and still nothing.

finally I got the torch out and began to heat up the bolts..heated it up for a good 1-2 minutes...tried and still nothing. tried this numerous times and still nothing. these brakes haven't been changed in a few years since before I got the car...i don't know the history with them. I'm a do it yourself guy and not a mechanic so my tools are limited but has anyone ever had a problem like this? if so how did you get the bolts out without destroying parts? maybe I can get some advice here before my last resort which is bring it to a shop. thanks for any help in advance

Jon

PolarBear
06-12-2013, 08:29 PM
Most people are going to tell you that wd40 is not a penetrating oil, get something better, like PB blaster and soak it frequently for a few days. After that I got nothing

madness410
06-12-2013, 09:38 PM
I'm not familiar with that..is it available at advanced or autozone?

WildBillyT
06-12-2013, 09:39 PM
Kroil if you don't need to spray it, PB if you do.

If you were using a propane torch it was not hot enough.

PolarBear
06-12-2013, 09:40 PM
It doesnt have to be that brand, just get something better than WD40. An actual penetrating oil product, even though WD40 says penetrates

coolmanvette75
06-12-2013, 09:43 PM
PB Blaster and a breaker bar...

madness410
06-12-2013, 10:03 PM
got it ill take a trip tomorrow to get penetrating oil and a breaker bar. yeah it's a propane torch I didn't know there would be a difference.

sweetbmxrider
06-13-2013, 07:12 AM
1/2" drive and maybe a pipe to get some leverage. Sometimes GM throws loctite on the caliper mounts and they can suck.

Featherburner
06-13-2013, 08:05 AM
Kroil if you don't need to spray it, PB if you do.

If you were using a propane torch it was not hot enough.Do you think the spray PB works better than the spray Kroil?

PolarBear
06-13-2013, 09:08 AM
Do you think the spray PB works better than the spray Kroil?

:rofl:

Featherburner
06-13-2013, 09:23 AM
:rofl:Serious question.

sweetbmxrider
06-13-2013, 09:34 AM
I was curious as well. PB can definitely out distance aerokroil, but kroil does come in spray can form as well as jugs of awesomeness.

WildBillyT
06-13-2013, 09:35 AM
Again, serious.

I didn't know they made spray Kroil. I have the gallon can of liquid.

In my time working on heavily rusted junk I noticed that Kroil in a squeeze lab bottle works better than PB sprayed from an aerosol can. Seems ridiculous but it's true in my case.

sweetbmxrider
06-13-2013, 09:40 AM
http://www.kanolabs.com/

:drool:

WildBillyT
06-13-2013, 09:42 AM
http://farraguter.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Kano-Fatality.png

Stevoone
06-13-2013, 09:56 AM
1/2" drive and maybe a pipe to get some leverage. Sometimes GM throws loctite on the caliper mounts and they can suck.

I was just going to post the exact same thing. I usually use a breaker bar and a 3' length of pipe for more leverage. Some cars are worse than others, had a really difficult time with my brothers Grand Prix a few years ago. I would not recommend this but I ended up lowering the car on the breaker bar just to pop the bolts loose.

madness410
06-13-2013, 10:14 AM
I was just going to post the exact same thing. I usually use a breaker bar and a 3' length of pipe for more leverage. Some cars are worse than others, had a really difficult time with my brothers Grand Prix a few years ago. I would not recommend this but I ended up lowering the car on the breaker bar just to pop the bolts loose.

lol howd u do that? put the breaker bar where the wheel well ends then lower the hydraulic jack?

Stevoone
06-13-2013, 12:35 PM
Yea pretty much, I was in my parents garage and didn't have enough clearance for the long pipe since I was working with a jack and stands. I have a compressor now so hopefully i never need to try that again.

madness410
06-13-2013, 01:22 PM
I see I see I may need to resort to that for desperate measures lol. I bought pb blaster and was looking for a 1/2 drive breaker bar. was wondering if anyone in the Somerset or warren county area has one. they're kind of pricey for me to use for just 4 bolts. I can give collateral in cash or anything of equal value if you have any issues lending to strangers.

The_Bishop
06-13-2013, 04:53 PM
Could go this route:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html

I have one of these, works well.

BonzoHansen
06-13-2013, 05:21 PM
Could go this route:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html

I have one of these, works well.

the bar inside a 4th gen door is the perfect companion to that. I highly suggest everyone grab one from a 4th gen with a bad door

V
06-13-2013, 06:07 PM
the bar inside a 4th gen door is the perfect companion to that. I highly suggest everyone grab one from a 4th gen with a bad door

ill be selling bad doors for $10 each now ;-)

The_Bishop
06-13-2013, 08:40 PM
Always generous, V.

lowrider095
06-14-2013, 03:11 PM
are you sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them ?

madness410
06-14-2013, 03:50 PM
are you sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them ?

haha yes im sure.

i ended up getting a breaker bar from harbor freight tools i cant believe how low the prices there are. got pb blaster too going to get into working on it in a few minutes.

WildBillyT
06-14-2013, 03:54 PM
Got a torque wrench?

madness410
06-14-2013, 06:34 PM
Got a torque wrench?

nope i dont...

i ended up getting the bolts off after dousing them in pb blaster and putting a lot of force on the breaker bar. there was definitely something on the bolts to keep them in there. thanks for the help everyone.