View Full Version : stubborn brake bracket bolts..
madness410
06-12-2013, 08:05 PM
i checked my rear brakes recently and decided time to do new pads and rotors. I get into it today pop the wheels off and the caliper slid off fine but got to the brackets and the two bolts behind there wouldn't budge. so i hit it with dw40 and let it sit..try it again..still wont budge. hit with a hammer a few times to loosen it up a bit..dw40 again and still nothing.
finally I got the torch out and began to heat up the bolts..heated it up for a good 1-2 minutes...tried and still nothing. tried this numerous times and still nothing. these brakes haven't been changed in a few years since before I got the car...i don't know the history with them. I'm a do it yourself guy and not a mechanic so my tools are limited but has anyone ever had a problem like this? if so how did you get the bolts out without destroying parts? maybe I can get some advice here before my last resort which is bring it to a shop. thanks for any help in advance
Jon
PolarBear
06-12-2013, 08:29 PM
Most people are going to tell you that wd40 is not a penetrating oil, get something better, like PB blaster and soak it frequently for a few days. After that I got nothing
madness410
06-12-2013, 09:38 PM
I'm not familiar with that..is it available at advanced or autozone?
WildBillyT
06-12-2013, 09:39 PM
Kroil if you don't need to spray it, PB if you do.
If you were using a propane torch it was not hot enough.
PolarBear
06-12-2013, 09:40 PM
It doesnt have to be that brand, just get something better than WD40. An actual penetrating oil product, even though WD40 says penetrates
coolmanvette75
06-12-2013, 09:43 PM
PB Blaster and a breaker bar...
madness410
06-12-2013, 10:03 PM
got it ill take a trip tomorrow to get penetrating oil and a breaker bar. yeah it's a propane torch I didn't know there would be a difference.
sweetbmxrider
06-13-2013, 07:12 AM
1/2" drive and maybe a pipe to get some leverage. Sometimes GM throws loctite on the caliper mounts and they can suck.
Featherburner
06-13-2013, 08:05 AM
Kroil if you don't need to spray it, PB if you do.
If you were using a propane torch it was not hot enough.Do you think the spray PB works better than the spray Kroil?
PolarBear
06-13-2013, 09:08 AM
Do you think the spray PB works better than the spray Kroil?
:rofl:
Featherburner
06-13-2013, 09:23 AM
:rofl:Serious question.
sweetbmxrider
06-13-2013, 09:34 AM
I was curious as well. PB can definitely out distance aerokroil, but kroil does come in spray can form as well as jugs of awesomeness.
WildBillyT
06-13-2013, 09:35 AM
Again, serious.
I didn't know they made spray Kroil. I have the gallon can of liquid.
In my time working on heavily rusted junk I noticed that Kroil in a squeeze lab bottle works better than PB sprayed from an aerosol can. Seems ridiculous but it's true in my case.
sweetbmxrider
06-13-2013, 09:40 AM
http://www.kanolabs.com/
:drool:
WildBillyT
06-13-2013, 09:42 AM
http://farraguter.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Kano-Fatality.png
Stevoone
06-13-2013, 09:56 AM
1/2" drive and maybe a pipe to get some leverage. Sometimes GM throws loctite on the caliper mounts and they can suck.
I was just going to post the exact same thing. I usually use a breaker bar and a 3' length of pipe for more leverage. Some cars are worse than others, had a really difficult time with my brothers Grand Prix a few years ago. I would not recommend this but I ended up lowering the car on the breaker bar just to pop the bolts loose.
madness410
06-13-2013, 10:14 AM
I was just going to post the exact same thing. I usually use a breaker bar and a 3' length of pipe for more leverage. Some cars are worse than others, had a really difficult time with my brothers Grand Prix a few years ago. I would not recommend this but I ended up lowering the car on the breaker bar just to pop the bolts loose.
lol howd u do that? put the breaker bar where the wheel well ends then lower the hydraulic jack?
Stevoone
06-13-2013, 12:35 PM
Yea pretty much, I was in my parents garage and didn't have enough clearance for the long pipe since I was working with a jack and stands. I have a compressor now so hopefully i never need to try that again.
madness410
06-13-2013, 01:22 PM
I see I see I may need to resort to that for desperate measures lol. I bought pb blaster and was looking for a 1/2 drive breaker bar. was wondering if anyone in the Somerset or warren county area has one. they're kind of pricey for me to use for just 4 bolts. I can give collateral in cash or anything of equal value if you have any issues lending to strangers.
The_Bishop
06-13-2013, 04:53 PM
Could go this route:
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html
I have one of these, works well.
BonzoHansen
06-13-2013, 05:21 PM
Could go this route:
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html
I have one of these, works well.
the bar inside a 4th gen door is the perfect companion to that. I highly suggest everyone grab one from a 4th gen with a bad door
the bar inside a 4th gen door is the perfect companion to that. I highly suggest everyone grab one from a 4th gen with a bad door
ill be selling bad doors for $10 each now ;-)
The_Bishop
06-13-2013, 08:40 PM
Always generous, V.
lowrider095
06-14-2013, 03:11 PM
are you sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them ?
madness410
06-14-2013, 03:50 PM
are you sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them ?
haha yes im sure.
i ended up getting a breaker bar from harbor freight tools i cant believe how low the prices there are. got pb blaster too going to get into working on it in a few minutes.
WildBillyT
06-14-2013, 03:54 PM
Got a torque wrench?
madness410
06-14-2013, 06:34 PM
Got a torque wrench?
nope i dont...
i ended up getting the bolts off after dousing them in pb blaster and putting a lot of force on the breaker bar. there was definitely something on the bolts to keep them in there. thanks for the help everyone.
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