LT1 clutch question

[L695speed]

Hey all,

I installed the LT1 clutch on the back of the L98. I do have what may sound like a stupid question. And bear with me here, because I'm reading different things. I would like an answer ASAP as whatever course of action I take, I want to get moving on starting tomorrow.

The throwout bearing goes through the pressure plate spring and is held on by a clip, now I was having problems with this clip, but looking at how the bearing works and all I am wondering one thing. After the pressure plate is installed, the bearing is under load all the time, correct? So therefore the clip that is used to hold it in place, has no use anymore, am I right? Basically just used for installation purposes. I've read that some people are not even using the clip.

The reason I ask, is the clip has sprung out of one of the tangs, with the transmission an inch away from being completely installed. I am thinking either I will replace the whole kit with a different one, or just run the car with that clip removed to keep it from becoming a projectile. It is a Brute Power kit. If that clip is useless after installation, then I see no reason why I can't run without it.

Clip is shown in the photo below, can I run without it after install? Especially if it won't stay in place? Unless my understanding of how the pull clutch works is off, I see no reason why I can't.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss158/labrchr/84%20TA%20rot/IMG_0022_zps1d77278d.jpg (http://s571.photobucket.com/user/labrchr/media/84%20TA%20rot/IMG_0022_zps1d77278d.jpg.html)

Thanks for any replies and input.

[L695speed]

After I put this up, I resumed my search, hours later (around 2am or later) I found an answer, on a 3 or 4 post thread on TGO. Another guy had the same question, and eventually called up Spec. Spec said that clip had no purpose other than installation. Once installed it doesn't do much. Considering the size and flimsiness of it, it makes sense.

So I pretty much said screw it, and finished the install, after bleeding the clutch further Wednesday morning, I have it on the street. Chalk up another T56 third gen on the streets in New Jersey.

[WildBillyT]

Thanks for posting the outcome. I was wondering what you would find.

[L695speed]

No problem. It was as I suspected because that clip really doesn't do anything once the pressure plate is bolted in. After its bolted in, the bearing is always under pressure. I thought I'd put it up in case anyone else has the same question, would save them hours of looking.

I haven't had any issues, the trans is smooth as glass shifting, the clutch is light due to how I built the hydraulics, but works good. My reverse lockout solution works brilliantly, just a few odds and ends, need to make a decision about the dash due to the console not being a direct bolt in. There may or may not be a balance issue with the flywheel and pressure plate, but I've had it up to 4000 RPM shifting there leaving the chatterbox one night. Nothing really out of the ordinary. But while the interior is a bit of a mess, it feels awesome to change my own gears in an F body again. Haven't driven a manual F body since I had my 84 on the road. The local guy from TGO who sold me the swap, gave me a good trans, no doubt about it. I'll have it at the next meet, whether I race or not I don't know.

[WildBillyT]

Are you using a toggle switch for lock-out?

[L695speed]

Are you using a toggle switch for lock-out?

Nope, even more subtle than that. I dismantled the lockout mechanism, pulled the spring. Took it down little by little, til I could easily muscle it, but it doesn't trip on a 4-5 or 6-5 shift. Takes a bit of muscle but once you figure it out, its easy.

I still gotta get a reverse switch pigtail, and figure out what the hell I'm doing about the speedo. I have the option thanks to Alloy at TGO of running either cable or VSS converter box. What I thought would be a simple swap of the speedo turned into an "Ah ****... now what do I do" moment.

The interior will likely still be a mess, and I'll probably still be using the tach as a speedo, but if you'll make the meet at Island Dragway you'll likely see it for yourself. From starting it, to back on the road driving, took me a week and a half of after hours and spare time work. In the driveway on ramps and stands.

[WildBillyT]

Nope, even more subtle than that. I dismantled the lockout mechanism, pulled the spring. Took it down little by little, til I could easily muscle it, but it doesn't trip on a 4-5 or 6-5 shift. Takes a bit of muscle but once you figure it out, its easy.

I still gotta get a reverse switch pigtail, and figure out what the hell I'm doing about the speedo. I have the option thanks to Alloy at TGO of running either cable or VSS converter box. What I thought would be a simple swap of the speedo turned into an "Ah ****... now what do I do" moment.

The interior will likely still be a mess, and I'll probably still be using the tach as a speedo, but if you'll make the meet at Island Dragway you'll likely see it for yourself. From starting it, to back on the road driving, took me a week and a half of after hours and spare time work. In the driveway on ramps and stands.

Gotcha. Mine's a toggle hooked up to the ignition switch. Some guys splice it in to a constant hot and then drain the battery if they leave it on.

If you DO decide to go converter box, let me know. I have a 95% new Cable-X I am thinking about not using.

[BonzoHansen]

I used a NO momentary switch for the RLO.