LT1 Starter Issues

[LTb1ow]

Preface, I have no idea if the starter is good. :nick:

That being said, car starts fine when its cold, but after a drive, trying to start car results in a dead battery like situation. Give it 10-15 minutes and car will crank over no problem.

Battery is in trunk, 1-0 wire from it to starter, ground strap from block to chassis, battery has good ground to chassis in trunk.

Seems to be a heat soak issue to me, so has anyone had any luck with heat shields or the wrap for starters?

[jam01]

do you have headers? if yes then try the wrap, the only problem i had with wrapping the headers was rust. but that was after a few years and i only painted them. if you can get a heat shield in there to cover the starter, i would go that route.

[LTb1ow]

Turbo application, so it is very safe to assume everything under the hood cooks.

[sweetbmxrider]

Take it apart, rebuild.

[BonzoHansen]

How big are those ground straps?

[Dudbird113]

Heat soaked starter, pic up a starter wrap

[ThoR294]

Picture of how the starter looks? Def sounds heat soaked.... Do you have a lt4 starter? Or stock lt1 starter?

[LTb1ow]

Take it apart, rebuild.

Thats teh plan for the one I pulled out, gonna see if I can source a rebuild kit

How big are those ground straps?

1-0 from battery to a ground down and through bolted chassis ground.

Heat soaked starter, pic up a starter wrap

Perhaps, gonna look at what the local Pep boys has to offer.

Picture of how the starter looks? Def sounds heat soaked.... Do you have a lt4 starter? Or stock lt1 starter?

Stock LT1 unit.

[Dudbird113]

Ask my buddy mike at the speed shop, hed know

[BonzoHansen]

What size is the ground to the block? I've seen guys have to run a ground direct from battery to the trans or engine because of starting issues.

[LTb1ow]

What size is the ground to the block? I've seen guys have to run a ground direct from battery to the trans or engine because of starting issues.

Sorry, left that out. Its a 1 inch wide braided strap from head to chassis. I am also on solid motor mounts so it should all be decent grounds.

I will try a jumper from block to chassis if it does it again.

[V]

I had a similar issue with an old iroc and my old 93 LT1 TA, I ended up bypassing the solenoid and running a ford style remote starter solenoid mounted up top. Fine after that.

[ThoR294]

You can get a vette style lt4 starter... From auto zone. Its gear reduction so its more powerful and you can use your core lol. I did it with mine. Not sure if that will fix your issue though.

[LTb1ow]

So, swapped in the spare starter I had and it shrieked, started it. But, it also suffered from heat soak.

Decided to pull apart the stock starter I had and other than making a mess, wow these things are simple. Cleaned brushes and commutator with some sandpiper.

This was the end result.
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad86/lts1ow/photobucket-8586-1406943968754_zps719ed53b.jpg?t=1406943970

Seems to crank over much faster, gonna try and heat soak it tmmr for some tests.

[Blackbirdws6]

Hope it works.

[sweetbmxrider]

Sweet, no creds in convincing you to pull it apart.

[ThoR294]

Damn that thing is right next to that nice hot pipe. Kudos on the rebuild! They are simple.

[LTb1ow]

Sweet, no creds in convincing you to pull it apart.

Creds were given via text good sir. But yes, thanks to your prodding, starter was taken apart.

That being said, I need a starter solenoid I think and I cannot source one for the life of me. Any advice?

[BonzoHansen]

odd, i don't see one listed on rock auto. but there is for my 93 k1500 which is a similar. and the solenoids are like $40.

try http://www.dbelectrical.com/. Call them.

[ThoR294]

aren't they part of the starter?

[LTb1ow]

Serviceable item, but nowadays with little starters its cheaper to buy a reman vs rebuild price.

[The_Bishop]

Try here?

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html


Edit, better page:

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html

[V]

I bought a solenoid by itself a while back, It was 43 bucks (for an ls6 cts-v)

Rayelco in lodi

[LTb1ow]

Looks like the starter is acting up again.

I have a chance to buy a LT1 starter for $125 or do I just buy a reman LT1 starter for $50 and roll the dice on how long it will last.

As of now, cannot find a single rebuild kit for the starter.

[V]

https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/pg260m/

says 96-02 camaro 5.7l, but under applications it also says pontiac 5.7l firebird 95-2001.

Maybe give them a call...

[LTb1ow]

Sent them a message

[ThoR294]

get the LT4 version mang. more powah

[FlyingDutchman]

You can get a vette style lt4 starter... From auto zone. Its gear reduction so its more powerful and you can use your core lol. I did it with mine. Not sure if that will fix your issue though.

This and be done. After my rebuild I had similar issues. Cold start was fine, but heat would kill the starter, barely turned over. Ordered LT4 starter for 1996 Grand Sport and returned my LT1 core, no more problems.

[LTb1ow]

But what will a LT4 starter do different than a stock LT1 style, heat soak wise.

[Blackbirdws6]

But what will a LT4 starter do different than a stock LT1 style, heat soak wise.

Powdercoated red...... :rofl:

[LTb1ow]

Negative, its just a lame looking starter.

With any luck it will be here by the weekend.

[ThoR294]

It is more powerful, so heat soak won't kill it as much.

[LTb1ow]

It will make cool noises at the very least

[FlyingDutchman]

But what will a LT4 starter do different than a stock LT1 style, heat soak wise.

TBH I'm not sure. They're both gear reduction starters, but the one is a bit more compact (at least the one I took out of my car was larger than the autozone one). The one I removed was a replacement and only 2 years old. Without taking them apart and comparing its tough to say, but I wonder if the gearing is different to provide more torque for higher CR .. ? Whatever the case, it solved my sluggish hot start without changing anything else.

[ThoR294]

It will make cool noises at the very least

It sounds ****ing badass to say the least :lol:. I just know the lt4 starters are more powerful. I haven't had issues with my LPP headers, but I know your setup is a teeeeeny weeeny different :rofl:

[LTb1ow]

As BLS can attest, when hot the starter sucks. It pretends that the battery is dead and requires a cool down period and jump start to barely kick over.

So, I am hoping the starter fixes it and then I can make another thread for potential battery replacement options.

[sweetbmxrider]

DESCRIPTION
The AC-Delco SD series starter, Fig. 1 , is a direct drive unit with electromagnet fields. This starter has a extruded field frame and an overrunning clutch type drive. The overrunning clutch is operated by a solenoid switch mounted to a flange on the drive housing.

OPERATION
The solenoid is attached to the drive end housing by two screws. The cover can be removed to inspect the contacts and contact disc, but the switch is serviced as assembly only.

Most motors of this type have graphite and oil impregnated bronze bearings which ordinarily require no added lubrication except at time of overhaul when a few drops of light engine oil should be placed on each bearing before reassembly.

DESCRIPTION
The AC-Delco PG series starter, Fig. 2, is a planetary gear reduction, permanent magnet field starter. This starter has an anodized steel field frame and an overrunning clutch type drive. The overrunning clutch is operated by a solenoid switch mounted to a flange on the drive housing.

OPERATION
The permanent magnet motor and planetary gear reduction unit of this starter, allow higher motor RPM while the starter is engaged, for reduced current draw and more efficient operation.

The armature is supported by a ball bearing at the commutator end and is supported within the planetary unit at the drive end. The planetary shaft is supported by a ball bearing within the stationary internal gear at the motor end and a bushing at the opposite end.

Seems legit

[Dudbird113]

Advanced auto on new hampshire in lakewood has it in stock..

[LTb1ow]

After fighting with the new starter, finally got it in. Up side? She cranks real fast and nice now. Downside? She doesn't start.

lulz.

[FlyingDutchman]

After fighting with the new starter, finally got it in. Up side? She cranks real fast and nice now. Downside? She doesn't start.

lulz.

Interesting. Won't start at all and you only changed out the starter?

[LTb1ow]

Ya, I am sure its something related to having the battery turned off for awhile.

[Blackbirdws6]

Ugh. Give her a good charge and see what happens tomorrow.

[LTb1ow]

Battery tender claims charged, DVOM says 12.XX on it, and it cranks like ****. When cranking volts drop to less than 9 sooo F it. Ordered a agm battery.

Probably still crank like ****.

#LT1life

[sweetbmxrider]

That battery is def bad man....

[LTb1ow]

Installed new AGM from advance, and she cranks like a mofo now. Sounds pretty cool too.

Long story short, reclocked the cam sensor and after cranking with no fuel pump to clear cylinders, she then fired right off. Amazing.

[Blackbirdws6]

Excellent!

[sweetbmxrider]

Did you put coolant in it?

[LTb1ow]

Coolant in engine? Yes.

I wanna get a fancy funnel to do the force bleeds but thats another day.

[sweetbmxrider]

As in one that fits the radiator neck? Might have one. Don't you have an electric pump?

[LTb1ow]

As in one that fits the radiator neck? Might have one. Don't you have an electric pump?

Yes, and yes. Running the EWP with bleeder open does not seem to work as well as I would think in terms of bleeding it.

[FlyingDutchman]

Yes, and yes. Running the EWP with bleeder open does not seem to work as well as I would think in terms of bleeding it.

So weak hot start has been solved?

I had a bit of trouble bleeding with the ewp, seemed like I couldn't get all the air out. Eventually gave up and just kept an eye on temp gauges, haven't had any issues.

[LTb1ow]

I am gonna go try to start it after letting it heat soak in the garage for awhile and see if its fixed.

So far its looking good though, cranks over quick and easily.

[LTb1ow]

Update, after sitting parked for a half hour, she started right up.

#success

[Blackbirdws6]

Aww yea!

[tcbnj]

I recommend against using a Napa 4N1603 on a LT1 4th gen with Kooks long tube headers. Long story short, I had to replace the OEM starter on this year’s Hot Rod Power Tour in Kansas and the local shop only had access to Napa starters. Unfortunately, this combination resulted in unacceptable heat sink issues. My subsequent application of a heat wrap and then a heat shield (aluminum) only made the issue worse. Resistance was so bad the coating on the main feed from the battery melted near the starter connection. I have since replaced the Napa unit with an AC Delco replacement of the original starter and have had no issues.
M
y loss, could be your gain. Napa replaced the “heat soaked’ starter with a never used replacement (their policy is no cash refunds). Napa describes the 4N1603 as a new, high performance “race starter”. It comes with a limited lifetime warranty. I paid $400 (not including installation) from the Kansas shop (robbery price, yes, but I was ~ 1,400 miles from home). The Napa online price is $275. Your price excluding shipping is $200 plus shipping. I estimate shipping to be $20.

I can send pics, if interested, send text to 201-707-5050