View Full Version : Oil Pressure: Weights etc
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 07:54 AM
Right now I run 15w40 cause its cheap and I have it laying around from truck oil changes.
That being said, it basically pegs the gauge when cruising and its just wasting power/generating heat. I would like to try 5w40 but AFAIK, that will just affect cold start pressures right?
I would need to switch to a 5w30 area to see a lower pressure?
redsoxsstink
05-04-2015, 08:06 AM
you are right
WildBillyT
05-04-2015, 08:56 AM
Yes, you should see lower pressure.
I don't know enough about oil weight requirements to give any useful info but I think there's information out there that can help you figure out what to run based on bearing clearances and such.
The_Bishop
05-04-2015, 09:08 AM
From what I know about oil, you want to stay away from large-weight-range stuff when you have a tough environment for it to live in. A turbo'd LT1 qualifies. I'd try 10-30. It'll be more 'shear stable' than a 5-30, the oil pressure difference on startup between 5 weight and 10 weight would be negligible.
What's your hot oil pressure? Pinning the gauge? If so, I'd definitely try a 30 weight.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 09:12 AM
Hot idle is prob round 35-40psi, again too much, but it makes me feel fuzzy inside.
Blackbirdws6
05-04-2015, 09:20 AM
Hot idle for mine with 5w40 is in the 35-40 range which I'm fine with.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 09:25 AM
Do you have the same pressure while cruising? (you and I have similar clearances I think) [I have a HV pump though]
Blackbirdws6
05-04-2015, 09:45 AM
While cruising, I am in the mid 40's or so when hot. I am 60-70 when cold but not pegging the gauge. Keep in mind my cruising RPM may be significantly different from yours.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 09:58 AM
75mph is 2500rpm for me, 65mph is 2200rpm.
Blackbirdws6
05-04-2015, 10:14 AM
I'm below all of that in 6th. 1800 is around 65, 2000 at about 80. Prob lower since my tach is off by a couple hundred RPM.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 10:24 AM
Hmn ok, I will toss some 30wt in and see how she does.
Lil scurred :lol:
sweetbmxrider
05-04-2015, 10:35 AM
You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.
WildBillyT
05-04-2015, 10:40 AM
You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.
Wait, this is with the factory gauge? Yikes.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 10:47 AM
You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.
Wait, this is with the factory gauge? Yikes.
Its a lot of pressure, vs, no pressure, so wanna try for mid range pressure, vs, no pressure. :rofl:
Synthetic blend?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T5-10W-30-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-1-gal./20573564
So much fancy
The_Bishop
05-04-2015, 10:49 AM
That should work, rotella is good stuff.
Also: High roller turbo build? Put a gauge on it!
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 10:53 AM
I have no where to place an oil gauge nor do I really want that hassle. Like I said gauge is a yes or no kinda indicator.
sweetbmxrider
05-04-2015, 11:05 AM
A manual gauge in the cowl would tell you a whole lot about how great your factory gauge isn't.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 11:10 AM
A manual gauge in the cowl would tell you a whole lot about how great your factory gauge isn't.
Its a potential option, but not directly related to this topic.
sweetbmxrider
05-04-2015, 11:24 AM
But it is. You are assuming you have too high oil pressure. You need to verify your cold and hot pressures with a gauge. You don't need a $300 gauge. A parts store mechanical gauge would be a viable option to verify your actual pressures. You are also chasing loss of power....you haven't even got the car to go down the track 100%. I'm all for doing things for longevity etc. I just don't want you to waste lots of time here when other things need more immediate attention.
WildBillyT
05-04-2015, 11:30 AM
But it is. You are assuming you have too high oil pressure. You need to verify your cold and hot pressures with a gauge. You don't need a $300 gauge. A parts store mechanical gauge would be a viable option to verify your actual pressures. You are also chasing loss of power....you haven't even got the car to go down the track 100%. I'm all for doing things for longevity etc. I just don't want you to waste lots of time here when other things need more immediate attention.
Adam, aren't some of the factory gauges off by a large margin? Like 10+ psi?
sweetbmxrider
05-04-2015, 12:08 PM
All of the gauges are significantly off. Everyone knows the fuel level gauge is a joke. M6 guys know the tachs are off. It is what it is. Stick a real gauge on there and see what it is actually doing.
Blackbirdws6
05-04-2015, 12:31 PM
A basic mechanical gauge is a good idea. Can't identify if there is an issue without good information.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 01:34 PM
I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.
If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.
Blackbirdws6
05-04-2015, 01:42 PM
I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.
If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.
No recommendation of cheap, plastic line of course but I'm guessing Adam meant you don't need a big $$ electronic gauge with all the fancy things.
WildBillyT
05-04-2015, 02:12 PM
I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.
If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.
You can run a full sweep electronic gauge or go with a mechanical gauge with braided hose (that's what I did). If its mechanical just make sure you bleed it.
Either way it will be better than stock.
LTb1ow
05-04-2015, 02:14 PM
I am out of places to stash a gauge inside the car, so it would be under the cowl I guess.
IDK, is it the OE sender, or cluster?
sweetbmxrider
05-04-2015, 04:10 PM
That being said, it basically pegs the gauge when cruising and its just wasting power/generating heat.
Just going off of what you said. You don't even need a permanent oil pressure gauge. I simply meant hook one up so you can assess the pressure under given conditions. If you want to go braided, go for it. I'm sure your oil is contributing to your higher pressure reading but I'm not sure if you should be running thinner stuff, you built it. I'm not sure why you want thinner either with your wasting power/generating heat comment followed by not chasing power. I'd wonder what the oil temp actually is? I should probably listen instead of speak here as I'm sure you researched the hell out of this topic. I know there are positives to thinner oil but is it correct for your application?
Pampered-Z
05-05-2015, 08:38 AM
My factory gause actually reads VERY slightly higher then my aftermarket.
So I have the factory guage - attached right above the oil filter in a T-fitting that feeds oil to the super charger, and a mech. Autometer attached into the top of the block in the rear.
I Run 10-40W Dino
Mech gauge shows about 2-3 Lbs less then stock gauge.
At startup I'm around 80PSI, Once oil temp gets above 180 to starts to drop off slightly. Sunday is was 82degrees out and I was hot laping the car Oil was about 195 degrees and pressure stayed above 65PSI.
I don't know if I would go lighter on the oil, unless something like 5-30W with a bottle of STP?
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