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LS1ow
04-10-2019, 11:21 AM
As some may know, i picked up a rear for my car last fall.

The rear itself is out of a 3 channel car, so it is set up for a 3 channel system. My car is a 4 channel car. Now other than traction control and ABS, which my war wagon does not have, is there anything else i should worry about ?

I know the 4 channel has reluctor wheels at the axle ends and the 3 channel has a speed sensor at the pumpkin. Im hoping those are just for traction control nonsense and for reading vehicle speed, which i don't think they are.

Is there any other differences? I feel like there is only 1 brake line running to the front instead of 2, can someone verify

ThoR294
04-10-2019, 12:31 PM
VSS is on transmission. dont think there are any other differences.

my car is 3 channel and i do have only 1 line running to rear. but why would that matter? your lines are already there no?

LTb1ow
04-10-2019, 12:47 PM
The 4 channel will have two feed lines to it, whereas the 3 channel only had one.

So T the two lines, or delete one. IDK how you setup your prop valve

LS1ow
04-10-2019, 01:19 PM
The 4 channel will have two feed lines to it, whereas the 3 channel only had one.

So T the two lines, or delete one. IDK how you setup your prop valve

prop valve has single line coming out, the T right at the frame rail into the 2 lines.

Feel like running single line from prop, to a T, then from a T at the rear back into a single line is asking for trouble.

BonzoHansen
04-10-2019, 02:10 PM
w/o ABS just run a single line from the prop valve back to a T at the rear.

sweetbmxrider
04-10-2019, 04:53 PM
Just run a single line from prop valve to a single hose that bolts to the rear. The single hose will have a T integrated into it to feed the left and right hoses for the rear calipers.

You can get away with reusing one of your current metal lines if you feel like it/know a thing or two/not how you stand by your car/'Murica

LTb1ow
04-11-2019, 04:51 AM
prop valve has single line coming out, the T right at the frame rail into the 2 lines.

Feel like running single line from prop, to a T, then from a T at the rear back into a single line is asking for trouble.

Yes.

Just run one line as stated above. The rear should have a T that bolts to the housing.

Don't over think this brah.

LS1ow
04-11-2019, 06:42 AM
Rear does have a T on it, but coming out of that T is one of these connections.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7842/40619415143_01e7304165_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7882/40619415163_ce070835aa_z.jpg

Normal?

LTb1ow
04-11-2019, 07:06 AM
Ya there should be a bracket on the car side that it slides into and then is locked down for the hard line to attach to.

LS1ow
04-11-2019, 10:46 AM
Ya there should be a bracket on the car side that it slides into and then is locked down for the hard line to attach to.

Can i just run a braided line from valve directly to line on rear? Or are braided brake lines that long not a thing

BonzoHansen
04-11-2019, 10:48 AM
Can i just run a braided line from valve directly to line on rear? Or are braided brake lines that long not a thing

not a thing

sweetbmxrider
04-11-2019, 04:32 PM
That hose should fit one of the factory mounts you currently have. I know they have different sized fittings on the hard lines, I can't recall if the hoses were different externally. One of your factory hard lines should fit that hose.

LS1ow
04-12-2019, 08:29 AM
Smash sent me a pic yesterday that helped me visualize without going under the car.

Im gunna end up grabbing another set of the compression fittings and just replacing the T upfront to a straight threw to one line.

BonzoHansen
04-12-2019, 09:49 AM
no compression fittings on brake lines

MDSheds_SS
04-12-2019, 11:45 AM
Double flare that ****, or buy a shoot.

ThoR294
04-12-2019, 12:01 PM
no compression fittings on brake lines

:werddance:

yeah do not do that please lol

LS1ow
04-12-2019, 02:17 PM
no compression fittings on brake lines

Double flare that ****, or buy a shoot.

:werddance:

yeah do not do that please lol

wait were were you guys when all this happened.

https://oi1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag194/micbegls1/55704396-3E20-4CF7-B977-9A2D3FF424E5_zps3y8hf5jk.jpg

ThoR294
04-12-2019, 03:49 PM
clearly we didn't see that lol

sweetbmxrider
04-12-2019, 04:15 PM
https://i.imgflip.com/2yg9gv.jpg

LTb1ow
04-12-2019, 04:27 PM
Just means he is gonna have a chute to slow him down.

'merica mobile doesn't need no stinkin brakes

LS1ow
04-12-2019, 05:02 PM
Sooooo brake lines should be placed on order?

LTb1ow
04-12-2019, 05:39 PM
Sooooo brake lines should be placed on order?

Just run new lines. Buy a roll and get to work

LS1ow
04-12-2019, 07:02 PM
Sigh.

IROCZman15
04-12-2019, 07:10 PM
yea man, no way you should be using compression fittings on brake lines. flares only ... bubble flare or double inverted flares. I like the ni-cop nickle-copper line. easy to flare. easy to bend. I just ran nice ni-cop lines on the new 12 bolt rear. I will be doing the remainder of the car with the nickle copper next year from the master to the adjustable wilwood prop-valve that is under the rear drivers side seat.

LS1ow
04-12-2019, 07:25 PM
I値l feel like I壇 rather sell the car than flare brake lines

LTb1ow
04-12-2019, 07:26 PM
I値l feel like I壇 rather sell the car than flare brake lines

Steal a hydraulic flare tool from work and get to it

sweetbmxrider
04-13-2019, 05:42 AM
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B007TN15EG

Its the best. You can get 37.5* stuff for nawzzzzzzzz too!

LS1ow
04-13-2019, 09:01 AM
Steal a hydraulic flare tool from work and get to it

We dont have those, i asked when doing the line like the first time and my shop foreman laughed at me. Audi doesnt condone that. The whole line gets replaced and comes done already.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B007TN15EG

Its the best. You can get 37.5* stuff for nawzzzzzzzz too!

dat amazon return policy doe...

LS1ow
04-13-2019, 09:54 AM
instead of having to replace all the lines, i could just replace the commpression fittings with these?

Straight fitting to the rear line to complete 3 channel swap

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32377-43375.aspx?origin=keyword

and a T for the fronts

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-46694-785-436.aspx?origin=keyword

then just remake lines from line lock and prop valve?

sweetbmxrider
04-13-2019, 07:57 PM
You have to flare the metal line to create a sealing surface. You can do it by hand or whatever tool you get to do it with. You would be doing the inverted "double" flare.

http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/brake-line-flares-metric-sae-inverted-bubble/flare-schematic-2.jpg

LS1ow
04-14-2019, 11:18 AM
You have to flare the metal line to create a sealing surface. You can do it by hand or whatever tool you get to do it with. You would be doing the inverted "double" flare.

http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/brake-line-flares-metric-sae-inverted-bubble/flare-schematic-2.jpg

Ya I know dis. But instead of just redoing the whole lines I値l be able to swap the compression fittings for the fittings I posted, right? I値l just flare the lines.

I ordered a 3/16 flare tool from my matco guy at work. $60, figured it値l be better than one of those $40 universal kits, but save me $ from the hydrolic kit on amazon

WildBillyT
04-15-2019, 10:20 AM
I ordered a 3/16 flare tool from my matco guy at work. $60, figured it値l be better than one of those $40 universal kits, but save me $ from the hydrolic kit on amazon

Should be just fine. Doesn't look like you are flaring stainless. That can be the real bitch.

sweetbmxrider
04-15-2019, 06:40 PM
You just need 1 tee for front lines. Just flare the one line you need for the rear and remove the other. You can use that union to extend the rear line if needed. The factory metal lines are pretty tough, have fun :D

IROCZman15
04-15-2019, 07:41 PM
Should be just fine. Doesn't look like you are flaring stainless. That can be the real bitch.



yup! I had to flare some stainless under the car back in feburary. as in, not off the car in a vice on a workbench, but laying on my back under the car with the line flailing all around as I worked on flaring it. next year that particular line is becoming nickle-copper, but for now my flare worked.


do some test flares on scrap pieces of line first too. just so you get the hang of it. brute force is not the way to go here. takes a few practice runs to start learning. a little brake fluid as lube on the flare's die can be helpful too.
also, try not to over tighten the fittings, the threads can strip easily and then you have to cut off your brand new flare, remove the fitting, hope you have enough spare line to make up the difference you just cut off, reflare etc.