A few loose ends need tying up.

[IROCdan330]

Car is going in the shop on April 5th to begin the engine swap and rear end swap and install all my new goodies. However, there are a few things that need tying up as the thread states.

first: what proportioning valve should I use for the rear end swap, the rear is out of a 2001 WS6, most stuff is on it but I know I will need a proportioning valve...also, will the thirdgen e-brake cable work?

second: I'll be installing a trans-go shift kit, does the one summit sells have the 2 stages in the kit? As in, the one for automatic shifting and the one with the manual valve body? Can someone give me a clue with whats included? Also, where can I get a new servo for the thing and for how much, and is that valve that lets you shift into 4th at WOT worth it, because I'll only really be getting on it from a stop, not on the highway. If it is, where can I get it and for how much?

third: Anyone know of a high quality Torque converter? Two people from another website both suggested one from yank, but after speaking with them the best price they can give me for a 2800 stall converter is 450. Thats a tad high. I'm looking more for a 300 dollar converter with the same stall. Also, with that stall and no slicks, will I have traction problems at the track? If so, should I stick with the stock converter for now?

fourth: what fuel pressure should I set the thing at for my drive about 75 miles away to get it tuned. It will be running on the stock 5.0 prom, yet have the 24# injectors and such so it will be screwy.

last: what gaskets should I use for my headers? I used mr.gasket copperseals for the first time and was very unsatisfied, as they blew rather quickly (shop didnt tighten them enough, but i figured they should last until I could, I was wrong). I hear FelPros are good.

Thats all I can think of right now. My setup is listed here:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/525665/3

Any other things i might run into during the swap?[/url]

[Fasterthanyou]

1st: The stock prop valve will work for now but I'd get a wilwood adjustable if you've still got the 10.5" front rotors.

2nd: From what I've heard that kit comes with both options for auto/manual valve body. There are a BUNCH of servo valves to choose from, with your power level I'd stick with a vette valve. Call up a trans shop and ask for their specialist, he should give you a good idea if you tell him your scenario.

3rd: Cheapest high stall converter is one from a 4 banger s10 late 80's early 90's. These converters are 12" lockup but because of the v8 torque vs RPM it'll stall higher than it would behind the 4 banger. I would recommend a yank if you're set on keeping the automatic and do have an ET goal in mind.

4th: Fuel pressure should be set lower to match your injector size to the ECM's tune. So if the 305 has 19lb injectors and you're using 24 then set the pressure to whatever it takes to get it down to 20-21ish. If you don't change this you're going to wash the cylinder walls with fuel (stock calibrations are very rich at idle and even more so when you're running big injectors without telling the ecm). So long as you don't open the throttle fast and snappy like at low RPM the engine will be fine with the lower pressure (MAF is nice like that). So if you're injectors are rated at 48psi, set em to like 40psi. When you're in closed loop the motor's fuel will be fine. From your mods I'd run 2-4 degrees more base timing as this will help the idle and cruising, just don't go WOT but I think you already know not to do that :) .

[ar0ck]

last: what gaskets should I use for my headers? I used mr.gasket copperseals for the first time and was very unsatisfied, as they blew rather quickly (shop didnt tighten them enough, but i figured they should last until I could, I was wrong). I hear FelPros are good.


If you got gaskets with the headers you plan on using, I suggest you use them along with a High Temp RTV sealent. It comes in a red tube and is an apply type goo. Just give the gaskets a healthy dosage and make sure you get the gaskets on in one shot because it can get messy. I did that the 2nd time with my headers and it stopped all the header leaks.

[IROCdan330]

Jon, whatever happened to you goin to Atco? Â*I had some money for you. Â*

Anyways, I don't have a disc rear, hence the need to swap. Â*So I don't have a proportioning valve at the time. Â*So Wilwood is a good one? Â*I've got stock 87 iroc rotors up front, whatever size they may be. Â*I thought they were 8 inch rotors for some reason but I could be wrong. Â*Any suggestions on what to set the thing at?

Do you know where I can get a vette servo? Â*Thats what I figured on using I just wasnt sure.

[IROCdan330]

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1179&prmenbr=361

Will this one do or is it the wrong style? I havent the slightest clue when it comes to brake mods.

[Slow Z]

3rd: Cheapest high stall converter is one from a 4 banger s10 late 80's early 90's. These converters are 12" lockup but because of the v8 torque vs RPM it'll stall higher than it would behind the 4 banger. I would recommend a yank if you're set on keeping the automatic and do have an ET goal in mind..

A torque converter from a 4 cylinder S10 wont bolt up to a SBC flexplate. However, a torque converter from a 4.3 liter V6 S10 will... I ran one behind my current motor when I still had the 700R4. It sucked monkey balls. It only flashed to like 2100RPM. It was so tight that my motor wouldnt even idle properly. Thankfully my 700R4 died after only a few test passes and rather than forking out $1000+ for a "built" 700R4 that'd probably die again, I got some sense and put in a TH350 that cost me $250, then gotta 9.5" Torco/Art Carr converter for $350. My Torco converter will flash at 3600RPM, footbrake to 2500RPM (with my crappy brakes and skinnies), but still drive just like a regular car. No "dynoing" effect at low RPM's, the car will even lurk forward at idle.

If it was my car, I'd ditch the 700R4 because its only going to give you troubles eventually behind that motor. I learned the hard way... Nothing crappier than getting your car back together then having to take it apart again. Jeff Mazzoni in Vineland rebuilt my TH350, pretty much a stock rebuild with good parts and a shift kit. $250, couldnt be more happy with it.

[IROCdan330]

I'd put a th350 behind it but i don't want a 3 speed, I like the overdrive. the engine won't be putting out too much more power than a stock LS1 if i'm lucky...so my 700 with a shift kit should help it last. I don't even know if i want a high stall TC because i might not be able to hook up on street tires with one.

[Fasterthanyou]

3rd: Cheapest high stall converter is one from a 4 banger s10 late 80's early 90's. These converters are 12" lockup but because of the v8 torque vs RPM it'll stall higher than it would behind the 4 banger. I would recommend a yank if you're set on keeping the automatic and do have an ET goal in mind..

A torque converter from a 4 cylinder S10 wont bolt up to a SBC flexplate. However, a torque converter from a 4.3 liter V6 S10 will... I ran one behind my current motor when I still had the 700R4. It sucked monkey balls. It only flashed to like 2100RPM. It was so tight that my motor wouldnt even idle properly. Thankfully my 700R4 died after only a few test passes and rather than forking out $1000+ for a "built" 700R4 that'd probably die again, I got some sense and put in a TH350 that cost me $250, then gotta 9.5" Torco/Art Carr converter for $350. My Torco converter will flash at 3600RPM, footbrake to 2500RPM (with my crappy brakes and skinnies), but still drive just like a regular car. No "dynoing" effect at low RPM's, the car will even lurk forward at idle.

If it was my car, I'd ditch the 700R4 because its only going to give you troubles eventually behind that motor. I learned the hard way... Nothing crappier than getting your car back together then having to take it apart again. Jeff Mazzoni in Vineland rebuilt my TH350, pretty much a stock rebuild with good parts and a shift kit. $250, couldnt be more happy with it.
You're right I'm wrong, it is the 4.3L v6. From 85 to 95 the 4.3L tc will work and cost like $130-150 which is very reasonable.
Slow Z, it sounds like you got the wrong converter because I know for a fact that the s10 converter will slip more with a v8 behind it than the v6, unless you've got a really big cam... but even then you shouldn't have a problem with it stalling from being too tight, sounds like a bad tc because you're the first person to say that. I've got a 2800 stall Continental lockup converter and it's a beast of inefficiency. My motor does NOT need this high a stall converter but I thought I'd have slicks by now... nope, so all it's done is decrease my city milage from 18 to 12, I average 16 driving some highway some city, which pisses me off. I get 23 highway!!

Jon, whatever happened to you goin to Atco? I had some money for you.

Anyways, I don't have a disc rear, hence the need to swap. So I don't have a proportioning valve at the time. So Wilwood is a good one? I've got stock 87 iroc rotors up front, whatever size they may be. I thought they were 8 inch rotors for some reason but I could be wrong. Any suggestions on what to set the thing at?

Do you know where I can get a vette servo? Thats what I figured on using I just wasnt sure.
I sent you a text message that I had to work that night. It sucks, I've been working tuesday evenings for a while now.
You still have a prop valve, the stock combination valve is just that, it's a combination of a prop and metering valve. Just use it until you get an adjustable valve and then you can bypass the whole combo valve.
I've got your memcal adaptor and chips all ready, just a matter of picking a day that works into our schedules. I'm taking online classes this quarter so I've got a lot of free time but sometimes I'm working, I need at least 4-5 days head's up to make time.

[IROCdan330]

Never got that text. Verizon is sometimes very homo about that stuff. Tell me Jon...you and I basically have the same engine with minor differences...are you still running your stock 700 or what?

[Slow Z]

The S10 converter was looser than a stock converter, by about 1000RPM... I was running a pretty big cam 238/246 @ 050 so it didnt like idling below 1100RPM much. There was like a 650RPM drop when put into gear.

If your heart is set on a 700R4 best of luck to ya. You might luck out and it'll last a long time. The thing that gets me is people will break their 700R4 then spend $1500+ for a "bullet proof" one, then have that break, so on and so forth. If you think about it, the $1200+ you'll be saving in the long run could go towards the extra gas you'll be using without O/D. Just food for thought, I made the same mistake of putting a new motor behind an old stock 700R4 thinking it would last atleast a little while, I was warned by many that I might as well replace it while it was apart but I had to learn the hard way. It'd especially suck if your not very mechanically inclined so you'll have to pay someone labor to pull/install your trans :( When/if it breaks and you decide to put in a TH350 lemme know, I'll help ya :)

Anyway, I think you definately need a converter for that motor. I'd rather have to ease into the throttle to keep traction than to stab it and have the car putt along until it reaches 3000RPM. With a 2800-3000RPM stall and all the suspension work you plan you shouldnt have TOO much trouble hooking on street tires. If I footbrake my car to 2000RPM then quickly go into the throttle (by quickly I mean quick, but not instantly stabbing it) the car will hook pretty good on street tires. Now, if I stab it off idle even on slicks it spins violently because the converter flashes to like 4000RPM. This is probably with 100HP more than your motor will make and on 100% stock suspension.

[Fasterthanyou]

Never got that text. Verizon is sometimes very homo about that stuff. Tell me Jon...you and I basically have the same engine with minor differences...are you still running your stock 700 or what?
Well the message I sent was pretty long so I used a "free website" to do it so it might have been their fault and not Verizon. Anyways, I've got a stock 4L60 with an SLP shift kit. It's been rebuilt once in it's 190k mile life and I've cut 2.0_ 60' times and abuse it like I stole it. I'm not pushing much horsepower to the ground and it's also got the advantage of having 3.73 gears in the rear to reduce the torque at the tailshaft. The SLP shift kit shifts and holds gears and shifts much firmer when doing 1-2-3 but when left in 3 or 4 it'll shift just like stock with slightly firmer shifts, nothing neck breaking though.
I have to rebuild my trans again because when I did the TC swap a couple years ago I didn't fill the fluid high enough and I burned up the 2-3 clutch so it slips really bad when I have a heavy foot. Looking to spend about $400 on a rebuild kit/parts and do it myself this time around. I don't know if I'm going to keep this TC or not, probably will just because I will have drag radials for a couple blasts down the 1/4.

[foff667]

Never got that text. Â*Verizon is sometimes very homo about that stuff. Â*Tell me Jon...you and I basically have the same engine with minor differences...are you still running your stock 700 or what?
Well the message I sent was pretty long so I used a "free website" to do it so it might have been their fault and not Verizon. Anyways, I've got a stock 4L60 with an SLP shift kit. It's been rebuilt once in it's 190k mile life and I've cut 2.0_ 60' times and abuse it like I stole it. I'm not pushing much horsepower to the ground and it's also got the advantage of having 3.73 gears in the rear to reduce the torque at the tailshaft. The SLP shift kit shifts and holds gears and shifts much firmer when doing 1-2-3 but when left in 3 or 4 it'll shift just like stock with slightly firmer shifts, nothing neck breaking though.
I have to rebuild my trans again because when I did the TC swap a couple years ago I didn't fill the fluid high enough and I burned up the 2-3 clutch so it slips really bad when I have a heavy foot. Looking to spend about $400 on a rebuild kit/parts and do it myself this time around. I don't know if I'm going to keep this TC or not, probably will just because I will have drag radials for a couple blasts down the 1/4.

definitly talk to dave(badzracing) about the tranny rebuild...he might be able to help you/give a few pointers along the way at least if your gonna do it yourself.