I saw your FB post about all that but I was/am in FB jail so I couldn't comment.

Whats the PN on that temp sensor for the trans? Does it also have the specs for what ever you're configuring it for?

I don't know it off hand but will see if I can get that info. At the time, I recall it is a basic GM/Delco sensor but I know that's not helpful.

Believe this is the trans temp sensor:
ACDELCO 12458118


Good to see it all back together...again. The Monster issue was strange as in static conditions everything was smooth. It was very nice of them to inform of the 'minor' modification after the fact.

The holley dominator can run thermistor senders for activating pumps.

:nod:

I still think we should just Bluetooth all the sensors

Yep that is the one. Texted Mike and he confirmed. Regarding Monster.....yea that would have been nice. For the short time I drove the car after it was all back together, everything was a little notchy at first but after some miles, it's gotten better and better. It finally hit that sweet spot within about 50 miles on it so I expect that to continue.

Yea that's nice but can it do bluetooth sensors? Didn't think so..... :mrgreen:

Get on that! It was fun watching your face of disbelief as you saw the fun of an older tech motor.

Yeap, my millennial was showing

Nothing too exciting here but figured I'd post a brief update.

Item 1:
I was chasing a P0327 code for a low input (sensor or circuit issue) which I don't know if its resolved but I've done everything reasonable to fix the issue. I replaced the knock sensor which didn't solve the problem but after further sleuthing, I found some wires (including the knock sensor wire) got a little toasty next to the passenger header. I think things just got moved around during the HG replacement a few weeks back. Purple is the starter wire and the blue is the knock sensor.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...26b88d22_z.jpg

None of the wires in the bundle were visibly burnt and some multimeter testing didn't identify an issue either. Since I was there, I decided to splice and solder in a new wire while wrapping everything in heat resistant material to avoid a future issue. Everything was re-run away from the header with all of the zip ties. I cleaned the sensor connector as well just to rule out as many variables as possible.

The code came back again after all that so more diagnosing was needed. With help from Smash, the drivers side plugs were replaced with a fresh set given they were changed on the passenger side when the HG was done. Plugs looked fine overall however they were all gapped way too tight (0.020ish vs 0.0275). I'm pretty diligent when it comes to gapping plugs properly so no clue how that happened.

More driving and while it felt fine, the code still came back.

I then checked over every wire from injectors to spark plugs and it seems my #4 cylinder spark plug wire may not have been clicked all the way on the plug.

I haven't seen the code come back but sometimes it takes a few running cycles. Maybe its resolved or perhaps the saga will continue. (EDIT - Took it for a ride and it came back. Ack!)

Item #2
The factory steering wheel/airbag combo is ugly and none of the re-wrapping options I've seen help it to look any better. So it was time to embrace racecar a bit more and replace the wheel with a new unit sans airbag. One part of me wanted to retain the bag but the other suggests I shouldn't trust an 23 year old airbag anyway. Decisions were made and for my bday, I received the NRG short hub and quick disconnect. For the wheel, I grabbed a 350mm Sparco that appeared to best fit the style of the interior.

After some coaching from Smash regarding the install rigor and reading up, I got to work. I've pulled the wheel before so nothing was new there but I took pause when the short hub did not want to go deep enough on the steering column splines.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5b31ba8e_z.jpg

It became evident the clock spring needed to go. Given it would only be used for the now nonexistent steering wheel airbag and radio controls, out it went. I soldered in a 2.2k ohm resistor to keep the airbag system happy (and no light on the dash). and finished up the install. One annoying item was not getting hardware to install the wheel to the quick disconnect so a run to the hardware store was needed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6052b814_z.jpg

After I got it all buttoned up, I liked the look/wheel size/etc. but wasn't loving the new wheel position. The quick disconnect just brings it too far out from the dash. Granted the distance did give me a bit more room for the clutch leg so that was probably the only plus. I told myself, "Drive it and see if you get used to it." I took it for a maiden voyage and immediately noticed the steering effort was much higher and felt like driving a car with no power steering. Seems I tightened down the nut for the column a bit too tight even though I measured the release torque and matched it during install.

Foresight was on my side in a funny way as I spent a good deal of time getting the horn to function properly. I haven't used the horn in maybe 5+ years but I just wanted it to be functional. On my maiden voyage with the new wheel, I had to use the horn big time due to a NY minivan casually coming into my lane on 287. I wasn't in their blindspot and you would think the person would hear my car but nope....not a turn of the head nor any peripheral vision apparently. There was a quick panic as I steered to avoid an issue and a smirk as my muscle memory had me going for the horn as if the old wheel was there.

I ended up ditching the quick disconnect but needed a short spacer to give enough room for the horn button connections so that was installed yesterday. The placement is pretty perfect now.

I got a couple quick errands done and the lighting looked right for a quick picture.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5aecd264_z.jpg

The saga will continue.....

nice update. I am wondering about the false-knock you are getting, but I am not skilled/smart enough to diagnose a problem like that. I wonder what larry has to say about it?

I like the look of the new wheel. never thought about one with a quick-release adding length to the column, but that makes sense. Good to keep in mind if I ever go that route. agree about the horn. Mine stopped working way back in like 2012 or so, but when I did the Optima Batteries USCA event, they deduct points if you don't have a working horn. I hadn't really needed to use it in many years, but i took the time to troubleshoot the problem and got it working prior to the event. it has been fine ever since, and I have indeed actually had to use it since then. I'm sure your muscle memory will play tricks on you for some time to come.

Quick update. Still getting the P0327 knock sensor low input code. Car drives perfectly fine but I see the 3.9 degs of knock retard on part/full throttle with load on the engine. Revving it in place doesn't trigger it unless I really just whack the the throttle but it's inconsistent. This makes me think that under load, the drivetrain is flexing like it will and something is touching/tapping.

Maybe something shifted just ever so slightly when the pan was done since the K member/motor mounts were unbolted. Something may be touching that wasn't before causing audible noise. Both driver and passenger lifter preload was redone recently so I guess she needs to go back in the air to see what may be causing the knock sensor to trigger.

An update and a bit more mystery to this knock sensor issue.

- Codes cleared a couple days ago, car not driven until yesterday.

- Start up, give it 30 secs or so to warm a little. Took it out for an easy drive.

- Very light throttle, soft upshifts etc as everything gets up to temperature. No knock retard shown on scanner.

- Take it on the highway, fully warmed up. No knock retard (KR) with any throttle - 0-70%. Played with it in different gears and rpms, no knock retard. It would have typically showed KR in these situations given my view of the scanner on prior drives.

- Almost home now after probably 20+ miles with no KR showing at any point. I goose it a bit in 1st and part of 2nd. Now I am seeing knock retard of 3.9 degrees pop up with any moderate throttle. Doesn't trigger it at light throttle or idle. No CEL popped up just yet but I know it will eventually.

So my quick take is something is getting unhappy or triggering KR after I decide to get saucy and from then on out, it registers KR at any moderate part throttle.

Did you swap sensors from bank to bank to make sure one of them isn't dead?

LTx land. Only one sensor on the passenger side of the block need the oil dipstick tube. 0411 PCM.

gen 1 SBC land.... what is a sensor ?

Just a few clicks of the keyboard away.....

You could install two sensors and get double the timing loss!

I like where your head is at! I'll just pick a spot in the block and start drilling/tapping!

INSERT (BRO I WOULD HAVE HAD YOU IF ALL MY TIMING WAS IN IT) COMMENT

Driver side already has a coolant port for it.

:bertstare:

1) Why haven't you tuned it out yet?

2) Is it an LT1 sensor or LT4? I heard the LT1 sensors are more sensitive and can pick up false knock.

3) I wanted to ask if you could hear any pinging but I know you can't even hear your own thoughts in that thing

LT1 vs LT4 knock module, its an OBD1.5 thing, he has 0411 PCM so no more module. Sensors are the same.

Well great. Now you tell me! Guess I can run three now.

1. Because I don't tune cars.

2. Not applicable.

3. Engine sounds good other than a tick under load/throttle when the bypass starts to close. Sounds like an exhaust leak but new gaskets etc maybe that's something else. I used a mech stethoscope and didn't hear any ticking from up top or below when I prodded various areas of the engine. During the initial easy drive and heavier throttle before getting saucy, makes the noise and didn't trigger KR.

I'd make sure I had good fuel in it and I'd adjust the sensitivity in the tune

Dude, your car came from the factory with them! :-P

I know, I was just attempting to make a joke about the simpleness of a small block chevy. Didn't pull it off well though. whoops! Into the penalty box I go.

Winter maintenance is underway. A lot of "here we go again" vibes but needs to be done.

- Address leaks - RMS, oil pan, powersteering and whatever else I find
- Replace tires
- General cleaning, fluid changes etc.
- Install some minor new parts
- Replace oil packed muffler

RMS/rear of oil pan have been leaking for a good amount of time and generally it was a few drops (std SBC things...) but it got significantly worse this past year so it was time.

Transmission yanked, kmember dropped and pan pulled.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...3ebe083e56.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...17d5200059.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...b7830e0aae.jpg

Some positives for a change. Clutch looked pretty damn perfect, same goes for the input shaft/pilot bushing. For the oil pan, decided to try out Hondabond. Apparently its the go to and since I've tried everything else, why not this.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...2ddaff0b08.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...e169b9db4a.jpg

All fresh
https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...82acd43941.jpg

Next up was the powersteering pump - I'd say this was leaking for a while. I had wanted to try the Detroit Speed rack but its the 98-02 style so after test fitting with a rough unit I got off Facebook, unfortunately the steering shaft will hit my procharger inlet pipe (130 deg stainless elbow). I could consider modifying the inlet but since this isn't a car intended for curvy roads, its fine. I did replace the pump and lines with all fresh fluid of course.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/3b79...78a1dfc009.jpg

Changed the spark plugs as well with some fresh units. Old ones didn't look bad but a couple had a slightly wider gap than I would prefer.

Doing some exhaust cleaning and replacing the muffler in hopes of getting rid of the "black spit" for 20 secs after startup. Doesn't do anything bad but make a mess.

More to come.... May have a surprise package coming this week for the car as well.