Did you have the A/C, defroster, or blower running? The motor can get a little noisy at low speeds when it's getting old.

Yup it's coming from the front. I can switch my fans on manually. I'll try that when I get out there tonight.

So the car stalled out again. I can't make sense out what it's doing. No codes and it all appears to be random. I set up November 1st for it to go to tune time. Im going to trailer it over there so to avoid road issues.

How is that ICM looking? It was the only issue I had where the car would just stall out of nowhere with no warning or CEL. It would only do it once the car was warmed up.

It appears to be fine. The car seems to stall about 4 minutes into a cold start just idling there.

Stalls and won't restart?

It will restart, though it takes a bit almost like it's floaded

Though it doesn't stall in this video. You guys can see it idles fine at a steady 1100 and out of the blue it will stall.
https://youtu.be/PLAf6ljo-k4

Maybe take a look at the idle air control module, the tps sensor voltage, the cleanliness of the throttle body and idle air passages, and vacuum leaks. No egr, correct?

No egr. My buddy and I are going to go through those. I've had vacuum leak on the back of my mind. Just don't know if a leak would explain inconsistency. Then again if a vacuum hose is loose it would.

Would a vacuum leak cause it to run rich? Seems like it's running rich.

Yeah, unmetered air the maf isn't seeing but the 02's are so it compensates and adds more fuel. If you have a scanner with datastream, one or both long term o2s will be reading high positive numbers like 15+ at idle. If you rev it up to say 2-3k, the numbers will drop to at or near 0 which would indicate a vacuum leak.

so after checking for vacuum leaks and the fuel pressure regulator and finding nothing the car did throw eventually throw a code. i was able to bring it to tune time (driven) and from what Ive been informed the opti spark is the issue. So the 24x conversion is in order. my question is will this conversion give me more power and what should I expect after its retuned. thankx guys

The only reason you should see more power is if whoever did the LT1 tune sucked and the new tune fixes all those shortcomings.

Otherwise, its a very expensive opti.

What exactly did TTP say the code was? And or, why not just replace the opti...?

Definitely get us the actual code.

P1371 was the code

Ah ok. Just make sure you check the opti harness first. If that looks good, opti/ignition upgrade time.

So I decided to go with the 24x conversion kit by torquehead. 3k with parts labor and new tune and the car is back running. I know the Ls motor should have been where to go to but with 12k into this 396 motor that option was off the table. I look at this way when it comes time to sell it and swap to my 408 I'm building the 24x kit will be a nice selling feature. Again thanks guys for your help, everything you guys had me check, checked out ok. Opti failure was the issue.

Good to hear its back up and running

Time for it to race? Glad it's back up and running...with more tuning flexibility too.

Well it's not back up and running yet. Parts will be here Wednesday.

A photo of my torguehead 24x taken from tune time performance facebook page

I also wanted to add this photo. Its the entire kit i got, photo taken from torquehead website. Its to bad i could not trailer the car down here in flordia where I'm at now. Some really nice cars down here.

I asked tune time to send out my valve covers to be powder coated. They came out awesome...I'm getting rid of some of polished looked.

Some photos at tune time time. Nice new Ls computer and coilpack assembly

Black PC valve covers came out nice. If you ever need to get another set, def try and find the composite covers. They just work damn well.

When should TT be done with the work?