Bubba, I think what everyone is trying to tell you is to totally cover the basics and make sure the ENTIRE VEHICLE is at 100% BEFORE you make passes down the track. Once the tune up is right, the car has no leaks, nothing is loose, etc.etc. Then you can start tuning. Set the timing to a total advance of 40 degrees and make sure it is all in by 2500 rpm. Make a pass and pull plugs after each one. Read the plugs at the top end and adjust jetting accoridigly. The idea is to change one thing at a time and keep everything a constant, this way you can tackle problems as they arise and have a clue where to start.

i make an attempt, and i try to make the most sense out of it but as you can see I have a hard time.

I clanged the plugs and shes running so much better...now i just ned to get the carb and timing right

I have a 87 trans am that's an LG4. Now it has an edelbrock 650 cfm carb with a mechanical vacuum advance distributor, an edelbrock performer rpm intake and dynomax shorty headers with true duals, and I run the same time. I also can't get the car to hook right away b/c I have the skinny stock wheels and tires so you should be quicker than that with a 350.

I did my timing the same way I think this is the best way to go.

The springs in the dist can be changed to make the advance come out faster - if you have the 3 sets it came with than swaping is another way to go -- i have ended up with cars with one spring tighter that the other like a 1/2 spring if you think of it that WAY -- its doing one change at a time like JS said - that is the key to keeping track of what works and what dont each time you make a change -- jz

well after tonight I got A good idea of where I stand

my carb 305 car ran 15.0 bone stock..sounds like you have tuning issues..just do what the two guys said about making a pass and checking the plugs and re jetting accordingly....im in the middle of this right now too..also check the timing like they said and you should be better off..

What rear does your car have? 3.23s or 3.42s? I went over every thing twice. the only problem now is the alt. went. so I'm not getting a decent enough spark. last time my battery was dieing and she ran like crap.

The majority of 3rd gen v8 cars had 2.73 rears Bubba...

- Justin

but an 84 HO Trans Am with a T5 would have 3.73's :wink:

OR it might not even be a 10 bolt

Yes it would....9 bolts didn't come into the game until later.

- Justin

1985

wasn't paying attention to the S/N

car had 3.73 open rear...with the 305,did the free mods from TGO on the CC carb, edelbrock headers, hooker exhaust, new clutch and no air cleaner the car went 14.3@93...blew the rear got a 9in 4.30's with a locker, some suspension work, junkyard 350, switched to mechanical dizzy and carb, went 13.40 @105... all of that has occured over the past 4 years..now im still working out some bugs with the motor and not sure what my next plan is..

gears are a huge improvment..but i can tell you that having the best rear in the world doesnt mean a thing when i cant get the engine to pull great through the rpm range..

well the T-5 helped I'm sure I have a cat-back on it now. The next mod is LT headers and some decent tires...those damn 215s spin all freakin day at the line, hard as hell to hook up

they didnt spin when i was at the track and you went 15.0....

not at all....and that was also my best 60' time. BUT I launched it just right and I had a bit more left than i do now. my tires are spent and now with the 3.42s there's no way she'll hold on

just take it to the track with what you have before you worry about anything else. i went 13.3 with a 1.97 60 on street tires with no suspension mods

yea but your stock tires aren't 215s.....

so why dont you do suspension and prep the chassis instead of doing headers? LCAs and Relocation brackets will go a long way along with a torque arm

yup. idk exactly what the next move is yet

And if you want to save some cash right now, and know someone that can weld, box the stock lower control arms and panhard bar yourself. I did it before and its not all complicated, just need the tools to do so.

And also if your planning on keeping the car for awhile, get a set of SFC's installed.

in time...Progress is picking up in other areas so the T/A is taking a back seat for a bit

hey bubba if you want a rebuilt 700r4 i have one with like 10 miles on it, I also have a shiftkit and 3000rpm stall, we can work something out like maybe $775obo for all which is a steal considering the stall was $425, trans was $900 and shift kit was around $125

Trans was rebuilt by cottman, shift kit is a transgo and its a tci t/c