5 point 11.49-10.00, weld in for sure on full frame cars but some unibody cars have gotten by with a bolt-in that has support plates. Unsure if bolt-in is "legal" but some have run them and passed through tech.

Much thanks!

I agree. The roll bar/cage is to protect you(the driver) from injury. I went with a 10 point cage just for my own piece of mind, I didnt need it. It will also make it easier for me if I decide to go faster in the future :wink:

Beat me to it, I believe there is an exception for unmodified cars in that rule too, say a Z06 running low 11's high 10's.

Yes but has to be factory stock. Down to wheels and tires and air filter.

What about tune?

I don't think they are going to check for a tune.:lol:

I don't think still holds true. Years ago there use to be a showroom stock / pure stock class where you couldn't change anything, but I haven't seen or heard of that class in years.

It's not a class, just an exception to the rule on roll bars. However, at 9.99 or 135mph all rules apply.

Kinda random, but say a 6 point roll bar, will that only protect you from your car rolling? Or is it also a side impact protection too?

A six point would give you protection because it has the door bars.

K cool, thats what I thought.

An NHRA legal roll bar will mount either bolting or welded to the body ( in a unibody car - the bars not attached to the frame) using plates to distibute the load that will protect the driver from impact or roll over. The main hoop has to be within a specified distance from the drivers head/helmet. The side bars have to pass between the driver's shoulder and elbow. The side bar is too low on some of the bolt-in kits ( Like the one RK sports sells), which is why they only refer to them as street cages. Looks like a cage, but won't pass tech at the track. I have an S+W cage ( called an 8 point as there is additional braces that run from the main hoop to the trans tunnel), and I have swing outs, the side bar is a bit of a pain when street cruising as it passes by the arm rest in the door right where my eblow would sit, so I just unbolt the side bar if I'm not on the track.

I was looking at Wolfe products.

You'll have no problems with their stuff. I liked the rear bars on the S+W better. The Wolf rears mount into the side panels, the S+W extend backinto the trunk well.

And whats the deal with mild steel vs chromeoly?

CM is stronger than mild steel so manufacturers can use thinner walled tubing to save weight. It will cost more, sometimes significantly.

I have been on the phone with S&W about this and they have said that the CM is lighter than mild steel, but the strength is the same in both.

That is true, pound for pound CM is stronger, but there is less of it used for the cage so it ends up being as strong as steel, but significantly lighter because they don't need to make it as thick

Just remember that in addition to a CM costing more to purchase, it has to be welded differently ( tig or mig, I forget ) but the install price is much higher as well.

CM has to be TIG'd.

Any one have a price range for a weld in install?

That can be a range of amounts. Cheaper installs may be ones where they don't give a crap about fitment and hiding the bar as best they can.

S&W does it themselves and I think they were reasonable. If I were to have it done I would go there.

Are they located in Glasboro?

Spring City PA I believe.
http://www.swracecars.com/