My granddad explained that compressed springs are more dangerous than live rattlesnakes. Rattlers give you warning...springs don't.

Chain the spring to the a-arm if you're not using a spring compressor.

I use an interior spring compressor, had to cut the big threaded rod down ~2" because it interfered with the strut tower.

I feed it up through the hole in the center of the A-arm, latch the arms onto the spring coils, and then tighten it with an impact gun to compress the spring.

When it's compressed, I drop the nut off the strut and gently lower the A-arm. Spring drops out easily this way.

I was about to ask this question. Currently going though the same thing.

Jack the car from the ball joint
Remove strut
Remove spindle
slowly let the jack down. The spring does not come flying out as I had thought.

Thanks. Hopefully this will all be done tomorrow.

put a chain around the spring & LCA. Don't be dumb.

Ah missed this. I did the same exact thing but also chained the spring to the k-member for safety. Luckily with the short pro-kit springs I didn't need a compressor for the install.

Ran into a slight problem. The bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle won't budge. I got the nuts off, but the bolts won't even spin.
Things complicating the matter: I have to save the strut and the bolts because I'm not replacing them yet. So I can't cut or hammer them.
Anyone got ideas? PB blaster and torch have been used so far.

Air gun should walk them right out.

Tried it and nothing moved. Pressure was turned all the way up.

is the suspension still loaded?

if the impact gun doesn't turn the bolt out, your pretty much beat. Soak it in PD blaster and hope for the best.

maybe put the nut on a bit, so the bolt threads are not sticking out, and give it a good couple whacks with a 2lb hammer, see if you can break it loose.

scratch that, the nuts are behind the dust shield, probably not the easiest things to hit with a hammer

how did you get the nuts off? just with a wrench on the nut? the bolt never spun?

A breaker bar and a huge pipe. The bolt never spun when removing the nuts. Suspension is not loaded and dust shield is removed.

wow, those nuts are lock nuts, if you got them off without the bolts spinning at all thats pretty amazing. Not sure what to say except use a larger hammer

Yeah, those suckers are in there good.

Quick picture for reference. Nuts are just put on there so I don't lose them.

have you tried putting the nuts on, just enough that the bolts threads are not sicking out, and beating on them with a BFH to see if you can break them loose?

Sorta. I put the nuts on, then put a piece of wood over that as to not damage the nuts. I know the wood absorbs most of the force but I don't want to mangle the bolts or nuts.

if you have one, you can use a brass drift pin or some other softer metal against the bolt/nut and hit that with a hammer, it will absorb less than wood.

Can you afford to wait a little while for new bolts and nuts to arive? Spohn sells new ones.

Had the same problem with mine, only on one bolt.
I soaked it in PB plaster, left it over night, came back to it the next day.
I left the nut on the tip of the bolt, took a big block of wood. and hammerd away. Therefor you dont damage the threads on the nut or bolt.
Coupe of knocks later, came right out. The one bolt was pretty heavily coverd in rust build up in the strut.
PB Plaster FTW...again.
Screw chains....

that's crazy those are on so tight, I guess I was lucky with mine

Got it, well, the driver side anyways. The whole a-arm is now off the frame.
Thanks for the help guys.