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i launch on my 12 bolt at 6k on a JSPerformance drag racing clutch (it doesnt slip) without problems, it lived through Ron without problems (that should tell you ALOT) and its an easy swap. ill let you know what i run with it once i get some gears in it but just had the trans fluid changed and there were no metal shavings or anything. if your going to get one get a strange, the torque arm bolts go all the way through the housing rather then using 4 small bolts like the moser housing, my 4 bolts are welded to my torque arm so that they dont wiggle out (its known to happen)
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My vote would be a 9in just for ease of the third member. Thirdmember rears are really nice to work on and dont need any kits to eliminate c-clips.
Also I kinda speak from a truck perspective here but a d60 isnt too much stronger (stock vrs stock) than an 8.5 10bolt. As said though its apples and oranges when your talking about built to the nines and not. If ya really want something bullet proof get a 10.5 Corp 14b Full Floater LOL will make the tiny bit of drivetrain loss your comparing amongst those rears seem like nothing. ___________________ On the locker, vs spool, vs posi note. Coming from someone whos driven with a locker on the street daily in his truck I cant recommend it for a stick vehicle. You have to half clutch around turns other wise the ratcheting will bang. This is another advantage of the 9in... Setup a third with some DEEP gears and a spool for when your at the track. 8 bolts slide the shafts, unbolt pumpkin, and put in the track pumpkin. All in all its an hour spent for track prep that can make your car much more streetable than trying to find a happy medium. |
well the 12 bolts from strange an moser id imagine already have c-clip eliminators right? they dont sell them with c-clips do they...
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Ronin, how is a Dana 60 and an 8.5" 10 bolt close in strength, factory stock? Why? The ring gear alone is 1.25" bigger in the Dana. |
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What the hell is that next to?! Thats not a 7.5 is it?
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yes sir thats a comparison of the 9'' to the stock 7.5'' |
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my moser 12bolt has c-clip eliminators.
if was to purchase another rear I would go with the strange s60/s90 |
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What is a s90? |
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100% my moser 12bolt has cclip eliminators. (1.5 -2" square block of aluminum w/ bearings behind wheel hub) pull 4 bolts out and axle comes out with the block. as for s90 i wrote s60/s90 cause i wasn't sure if the # was 60 or 90 that they used for the model of strange rear here is pic |
Wow, you sure do.. Is that rear extremely old or maybe was originally special ordered as a c-clip rear? even the flanges look wierd.. I dont know if you can even order a rear with eliminators anymore. Too problematic..
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ordered it from moser direct, for use with wilwood rear disk brake kit. came with cclip elim. straight from them. i didn't add them on or change axles, as you see it is how i got it. and yes bought a couple years ago (4-5)
wasn't tryin to 1up you or anything, just showing what i got. they probly don't build that way anymore, never had any problems, launched @ 4500-4800 and been 9.43 @ 141.50mph on that rear. bolts backin out of the rear for torquearm was a bit of a hassle, but otherwise did me no wrong |
Thats wierd.. When we have a Strange rear made for Wilwood brakes it still comes with the modified 9" flanges.. Maybe Moser dosent have a 9"flange for the wilwood pattern.
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hmmm... what are your thoughts on eaton posi's.... i never really liked the design but its all that is really offered in the 12botls unless i went with moser... what are you thoughts on them.... i need that posi additive too for them right seeing as they use clutch discs in there...
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Eaton is a very good limited slip unit. Strange also has thier own that really works well.
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well i heard on the internetz you can build a 10bolt to be stronger than a 9" :lol: oh and as i recall, i was at atco the night josh (JSperformance) blew up his 9". he was pretty amped on that
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yea bought a used 12 bolt off an ls1 car... so i have to change a few small things and then i can throw it on after the motor is back in...
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like what? you can use the brakes. i guess you have to finagle an e-brake cable. not using the abs.
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rear brakes on ls1's are different.... they have a drum e-brake setup rather than the lt1 style caliper that incorperates the e-brake as part of the caliper... so i have to change the backing plates... and im going to try to knock the reluctor rings off the axels also while i have them out becuase they are going to make changing wheel studs a nightmare...
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make sure the axle lenth is the same, dont need tires stcking out
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im pretty sure ls1 and lt1 axels are the same lengths... they just use diff brake setups....
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