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Installed DDM Tuning HID's in the LMC housings. Worked out very well. Much better distance and I find that the High beams are not used as much as before.
The lows each create a hot spot, similar to what the Halogens made, but more pronounced. The hot spots show up well when the headlights are shining on a wall or garage door, but not not very noticeable while driving. The high beams are crazy powerful. Amazing distance down the road and very uniform with no hot spots. These are just what is needed for the country roads I drive with no street lights or any other lighting. Easy to see if there are deer lurking in the woods just off the edge of the road. What is nice is that the lights are not blinding to oncoming traffic. Drove my wife's car toward the Firebird and other than looking whiter than the common halogen, they look normal. |
Any night pics of how the light is?
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I took photos of the LMC headlights with various exposure and aperture using a Nikon P100 on manual settings. Recorded the settings and then shot the HID's using the same settings. The problem is cameras take what the aperture and shutter speed allows the film or digital sensor to see. Even if shot with similar settings, lumens to a camera are different than lumens to the eye. So these pics, although taken with similar settings, produce results that are far from reality. A good example is video on youtube that shows "glare" from a HID conversion. I can post photos of my halogen that show huge amounts of "glare". The problem is photos may or may not show glare, photos may or may not show blinding situations. Photos only show the image based on duration and amount of aperture to the extent that the quality hardware allows (ie cheap camera gives crappy photo). So on an automatic setting, the camera opens aperture and/or exposure to get what the camera thinks is enough light to make a picture. The camera opens more and longer with low lights, and closes and shorter with bright lights. The results are very similar, and serve no real purpose for comparisons. Cheap lenses and crappy lens coatings cause the "glare" you see in photos. It the lens, not the eye that "sees" the glare you see in the youtube video. If I posted the actual photos taken with fixed aperture and exposure used for both photos, what you see is a "normal" photo of halogen, and a blinding white-out with HID. when I adjust the camera to get a "normal" exposure of HID, the halogen is completely dark. So there you have it. Just assume all photos and video (especially taken with cell phone cameras) are crap. Crap lenses that have lots of light refraction, cheap sensors with lots of smear. Just assume that the generally accepted spec of three times the lumens is true. PS, the highs are fricking bright as heck. On a dark country road, I measured that objects are clearly visible and identifiable from 3/4 MILE AWAY!!!! Yep, highs are amazing. The only time I got flashed with the lows was when I picked up about 300lbs of rock salt for my water softener and dropped it all in the trunk. Made the car point up-hill and got a few flashes. . Assume a measure of error in what I have posted, as it applies mostly to the junk you see on youtube. |
Holy ricer excuses batman!
You can take a pic and we can get a general idea of whether its a good setup like this: http://dziuggy.com/bike%20stuff/cutoff.jpg or some crap like this: http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...95_97_full.jpg But if you are willingly admitting it isn't that great, well I knew that was coming. Blind on buddy, blind on. |
6k HID's in projector housings on my vette, as well as LED markers and fogs... taken with my 6 year old point n shoot :)
http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/44...600x600Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg |
I call bs, thats clearly photochopped!!! :rofl:
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Should take pics a little farther back to show the width of the beam.
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yeayeayea my driveway isnt any longer lol
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